Did you get the "hidden bolt" under the anti-cavitation plate? You have to remove the zinc cavitation plate.I have a 2008 Verado 150, and after listening before me nuts that hold the lower unit on, it still will not drop. Am I missing a nut or both somewhere? I can't seem to find anywhere where it tells me what to do...
Dan-How do I remove that!!???
yes, this is so easy that even a cave man can do it
You need some basic tools, some beer, and a small gauge hand gun if you fuck it up
Step 1: ID your engine, go to your dealer and pick up an Impeller kit. I have a Suzuki DF140 and my kit was $50. Also get some "anti seize" for your bolts- (this will be needed to close the patient) its about $4 a tube.
Step 2: Liquor store- 6 pack of your favorite
Step 3: assemble your tools (this includes one decent sized friend/moron to help you support the lower unit in a later step)
Step 4: Open beer and tilt the motor to about a 45 degree angle. Your gear shifter should be in the "Forward" position.
Step 5: Remove the cotter pin from the prop and back out the castle nut that holds the prop down. Gently tap the forward part of the prop to remove it from the lower unit. This is also a good time to clean up your prop and remove any salt deposits, dirt or grime from all visible surfaces.
Step 6: Begin removing the lower unit support bolts- there should be about 6 of them depending on the manufacturer
Step 7: I ALWAYS alternate putting screws in, or out using a "star" pattern. I NEVER remove or tighten bolts in a "straight line". LOOSEN BUT DO NOT REMOVE BOLTS YET!!
Step 8: The last bolt is actually hidden underneath the prop skeg. MARK THE SKEG position before you remove the skeg. Oncetheskeg is off, remove the last bolt to the lower unit completely and set it aside.
Step 9: Get your large pal now and have him help hold up the lower unit while you remove all the bolts. Once the last bolth is removed, gently remove the lower unit from the main part of the engine, and remove the waterline at the front of the lower unit-
(I was into beer #4 now, so insert picture here )
Step 9: After removing the waterline hose, gently remove the lower unit and set it on top of something that you can balance it on without damaging it.
Clean off the gear rods from dirt, debris and old grease and begin loosening the bolts around the impeller housing. Here is my Ghetto style work bench:
Step 10: After removing the impeller housing, note the position and "play" the old impeller has relative to the housing and impeller plate. It should have no interference and revolve easily.
Step 11: Gently pry the old impeller up and off of the main gear:
Step 12: Gently remove the old impeller lock key from the drive gear. A flat head screw driver and teeny tiny hammer are fine. BE GENTLE.
Step 13: remove the impeller housing, old impeller gasket and impeller plate. Ensure the new impeller plate, housing and friction spacer match the old ones BEFORE you toss the old ones away! Examine the inside of the impeller housing and remove grime, and dirt. It should be very clean before you put it back on.
Step 14: after cleaning all the parts up, begin by placing the new gasket down around the impeller housing, then place the impeller plate over the top of the gasket.
(insert pic here- beer #5)
Step 15: Install the small impeller key onto the drive gear where you had removed the old one. DO NOT FUCK THIS PART UP AND FORGET TO RE-INSTALL THIS THING-this tiny lock will prevent you from putting the impeller on upside down and also prevents the impeller from "free spinning" on the main shaft which will cause you some overheating problemo's. see repeat pic for position:
Step 16: gently tap the impeller key into position and slide the new impeller into position over it. Match the slot in the impeller to the vertical position of the friction tab, and into position over the impeller plate. The impeller should spin with little or no interference.
Step 17: Place the impeller housing over the top of the new impeller. CLEAN the old bolts with a wire brush and slather the tips with "Anti Seize". Screw the bolts in by hand initially to ensure you don't cross thread. Tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern to ensure the impeller housing is mounted straight:
Step 18: We are now ready to reinstall. (Unfortunately at this point, my patience with camera taking took its toll). Regrease the main gear and shift gear as instructed by your dealer manual.
Step 19: prior to lifting your heavy ass lower unit back into place, place a new zip tie over the air hose that still needs to be installed. Here is where the airhose (it's actually a water hose/speed sensor hose)belongs
Step 20: With the assistance of your pal, lift the lower unit into place and reconnect the airhose to the lower unit. Tighten the zip tie and cut the tag end. BE CAREFUL TO ENSURE YOU HAVE ALINGED THE MAIN SHAFT AND SHIFT ROD TO THEIR PROPER POSITION. The shaft and shift rod should slide into position easily, like butta.
Step 21: Coat the tips of the lower unit bolts with Anti seize and begin installing them in a "star" pattern. Don't forget to install the hidden bolt that lives under the prop skeg. Install all firmly (hand tight) or to your manufacturers specifications.
Step 22: install the prop skeg to its original position (which you had marked PRIOR to its removal....right?)
Stepp 23: Finish your last beer and install the prop to its freshly cleaned and lubed drive shaft. Install castle nut to manufacturers specs and insert NEW cotter pin.
Voy-lah. Not too bad huh??
Anyone can add tips to this....I ain't no dad gum expert ya know?!?!