Discussion in 'San Diego Long Range fishing Reports' started by wahoodad, Oct 20, 2018.
When current permits, I’m going to dedicate more time to fishing chunks.
Paid off for me in January with a 191. Last day, great ending to the trip.
I want to catch them on Sardines. All of my reels for flylining are topped off with 15 feet of 80 lb Blue JB Hollow and I’m using it as well for making inserted wind-on leaders with Fluorocarbon in diameters of .09-1.05 mm. Hoping for an edge.
Hooks? Still can’t decide which are going to be best for me, shoulder hooking baits, swimming them back to the boat, again, current permitting. Like the VMC Dynamic and Charlie Brown Circles. Harder for me to hook baits forward of the dorsal fin, but I’m working on it.
Give that morning grey bite more time, even if it means a nap midday. Catch one, Fish one with Skipjack or Baby Giants (Yellowfin)
You should talk to Justin on the Apollo. There is a guy in PV who hand makes poppers that you can cast with a 16 size reel.
Chucho. Hes a good kid...He made a few for me for our here for pike / Lakers. Hes not overly excited about US shipping I think but he makes cool stuff.
Bill, I've been doing that for over 40 years now... must have a dozen or so long rods for basic (7X, 45, Candy Bar) surface iron... fav's so far: old school = Truline D8, new school = BTG 90J or 900H... Casting Reels: old school = Newell 332 (mine have the Tib one piece frame, upgraded drag, Accurate rubber knob), new school: Penn Torque 25N or 30 with 4.8 to 1 gears (straight 65lb solid braid to 3-4 foot BlackWater fluoro leader).
I use the 50lb hollow on the medium rods, not the heavy ones, but I did fight a 250# fish for about 4 hours on that 50#, got it to just about gaffing range twice. Ultimately, the line broke when the line touched the boat (rod was too short). Worth having as an option though for fish under 200# I think.
This year, I'd like to finally be able to cast poppers/stickbaits without wind knots or overruns. I'm using line conditioner and it did seem to help with the wind knots on the last trip (none) and that was casting the hollow 50. I'd also like to have a better way to film when I'm fishing. The gopros are still too heavy and large IMHO especially if you are casting a lot. I might try crimping my non-ringed hooks as well. I feel that tying knots impacts the line clarity near the hook, maybe. Not sure which is stealthier, a small knot with slight less clear line or a crimp with perfectly clear line.
What line conditioner are you using Aaron?
line and lure saltwater conditioner and I think the other one is reelsnot. Not sure which is better, I used the line and lure on the spinning reels and the reelsnot on the conventionals, but couldn't tell a difference. I don't believe either degrade the line, some conditioners do. So far it worked on the braid, but I did not see a difference on the fluoro when I accidentally wound it onto the reel. It was definitely useful when we were running and gunning on the porpoise schools and had to cast into the wind. I don't like to use a swivel on these stickbait lures as it changes the action, so I have a lot of twists that I have to deal with. It used to be horrible with wind knots, but like I said, none this time, although I did untwist my line each day.
Does it help with the cast ability of the coated lines, like Seaguar Threadlock?
On-going process Billy. The Fishgoggary modified surface iron smoked the tuna on the Rooster last week, Yellow's too. Wahoo on the bombs and Sea Strike 33. That was pretty good as well.
Working on a cow or super with my NEW jig made special for me by a friend.
Sorry for being so thick headed but, did you actually have multiple failures due to the lighter line or were you just too worried about a failure and extended fight that it was an unpleasant experience?
You’d have to go a ways to be more thick headed than me
Being my biggest problem I have with using spectra is the lack of being able to see bad sections of it.
Down in PV, on a limited load of 14 anglers (supposed to be 12, no resentment there), I go into gear, rod doesn’t even load up, and blammo, it’s gone. Earlier I had been in a slight tangle, never noticed any bad spot.
Later I caught a 150 on it, the bad spot being gone.
To me, the reward isn’t worth the risk. It wasn’t like I was bit all the time, so might as well stick with the right gear.
Finally doc, stepping up to be a MAN..!!!!
For what it's worth, I fish straight mono for the surface iron. Works just fine for me.
Just getting away and back on the boat the after T-Day. Been a long year
I tried the straight spectra surface iron deal- looked like a fool
I'd like to know the relative diameter and ABS of Pro Spec 100, if anyone has that info.
As for what angle I'm looking at, I have been trying to figure out why my spectra keeps breaking...twice on big fish my last trip, and a couple of times on previous trips too. I cut off and spliced in about 100 yards of new spectra on most of my reels the week before, did my best to inspect the line before the trip, and still.
Thing is, I'm stumped. I imagine I'm doing something wrong, but I can't for the life of me figure out what.
Other than that, just stop doing "that guy" things on the boat. Some may laugh, but I'm not kidding. You'd think I might be learning after this many years, but every trip I seem to find myself doing at least a couple of things to ruin someone else's day. Well, this time around I'll do better...
Why cut and splice at a hundred yards? Average trips I always dump 200 yards using a line counter, if it was a real long soak trip, or lots of needlefish, run ins with cutting edge hooks, marlin, dorado, triggerfish, etc.
Spectra has a lot of enemies. I buy in bulk, and don’t think twice about dumping the top 200 or 300 yards and splicing new in.
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