Wet Foam, But Bad Stringer?

What Kind of Anchor Do You Use?

  • Bruce

    Votes: 13 81.3%
  • Danforth

    Votes: 3 18.8%

  • Total voters
    16

Mr Lingcod

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Mar 20, 2017
106
45
Santa Barbara
Name
Jesse
Boat
The Last Soviet
After a little rain I got curious and cut open the bottom cabin in my boat. I found wet foam and a small crack along the bottom. Of course, I was alarmed and wanted to follow through. I spoke with a local boat builder, along with another boat guy I trust. Both actually said the same thing: It's been like that long than you've had the boat, and since it's a late 70's SeaRay hull, they made them extra heavy, pouring the extra resin down the stringer. They all cracked as the boat was eventually pounded in waves and the resin didn't have any cloth on it.

Does anyone else have any thoughts or experiences on the matter?

I'd like to remove the foam along the bottom and put a de-humidifier down there to let it really dry out (at the very least). When I press on the crack, it is hard and doesn't feel squishy... but it's hard to tell how deep it goes down. Boat sits in a slip. Never any random water that slowly leaks in from the bottom, though there is some rain leakage. Boat was recently stripped and bottom paint applied. No visual damage.

Thank you for the wisdom in advance, everyone. IMG_0565.JPG IMG_0563.JPG IMG_0568.JPG IMG_0569.JPG IMG_5556.JPG

IMG_0563.JPG IMG_0566.JPG IMG_0566.JPG
 
Last edited:

el Toro

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Feb 19, 2003
9,147
1,613
Point Loma
Name
Nate
Boat
Artemis
I hate to say this, but I would be shopping for a new boat. Repaired professionally even, after seeing that crack, it would always be in the back of my mind, causing distress.
 

gecsr1

28' Aquasport "Reel Adventure II"
Jul 15, 2005
13,808
3,485
Poway Ca
Name
Gary
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28' Aquasport "Reel Adventure II" / PlainJaneRods
can you get to each end of the crack ?
 

sbsurfer

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Feb 19, 2010
1,545
651
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Mark
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29ft Radon - 15ft Hobie Power Skiff
I think you're going to have to chase that crack down to see how deep and long it goes. Any signs of the crack on the exterior of the hull?

And as far as anchors go....there's probably a big reason you see bruce anchors on almost every commercial fishing boat in the SB harbor.
 

gecsr1

28' Aquasport "Reel Adventure II"
Jul 15, 2005
13,808
3,485
Poway Ca
Name
Gary
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28' Aquasport "Reel Adventure II" / PlainJaneRods
Sure, I'd pull the tanks, which on my boat is relatively easy. Can be done without cutting floorboard.
well then I see no reason that can't be repaired.... let dry very good sand the complete area drill a small hole at each end of the crack but now through the hull .
I would use epoxy and fiberglass mat and call it done....
 

PACIFICPUNISHER

Biscuit Buster
Sep 4, 2009
527
226
So Cal
Name
Moondog
Boat
PARKER 2320 "HOTLINE"
From the pictures it looks like the crack is along the keel of the boat is that correct? Usually the keel is the thickest part of a hull and I dont think that the crack in your hull is deep at all. Looks like they went heavy on the resin and not enough glass. I would grind down the crack to see how deep it is.
 

Mr Lingcod

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Mar 20, 2017
106
45
Santa Barbara
Name
Jesse
Boat
The Last Soviet
I think you're going to have to chase that crack down to see how deep and long it goes. Any signs of the crack on the exterior of the hull?

And as far as anchors go....there's probably a big reason you see bruce anchors on almost every commercial fishing boat in the SB harbor.
No sign. Dosn't leak, either. Was just stripped on the exterior for painting, but no sign from the outside. It's frankly pretty small on the inside, but I asked Don to take a look. Good news is it wouldn't be too hard to pull the tanks and get to it from the top if need be since the floor actually comes out without cutting the deck.
 

Mr Lingcod

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Mar 20, 2017
106
45
Santa Barbara
Name
Jesse
Boat
The Last Soviet
From the pictures it looks like the crack is along the keel of the boat is that correct? Usually the keel is the thickest part of a hull and I dont think that the crack in your hull is deep at all. Looks like they went heavy on the resin and not enough glass. I would grind down the crack to see how deep it is.
I think that's the idea. The hull is over 1 inch thick! It just dosn't look like it goes down or has spread. As I said above, a boat builder in town thought that all SeaRay boats from this period would have this crack due to the excess of resin poured on the keel. I think a small bit of grinding would reveal a lot.
 

Mr Lingcod

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Mar 20, 2017
106
45
Santa Barbara
Name
Jesse
Boat
The Last Soviet
Because they are the cheapest thing out there?
Because the Bruce holds a wind change better than a Danforth. It tends to stay set when the boat turns. A Danforth can have a harder time resetting. But a Danforth has better holding power, especially in the sand. I switched back to two Danforths, figuring that on an overnight I'm preventing a "swing" with a stern anchor so my big Danforth in front wouldn't reset at all. I also only overnight on sand/mud bottoms.
 
Last edited:

sbsurfer

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Feb 19, 2010
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Mark
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29ft Radon - 15ft Hobie Power Skiff
No sign. Dosn't leak, either. Was just stripped on the exterior for painting, but no sign from the outside. It's frankly pretty small on the inside, but I asked Don to take a look. Good news is it wouldn't be too hard to pull the tanks and get to it from the top if need be since the floor actually comes out without cutting the deck.
I'd remove everything necessary to address the issue properly...you need to see how far that crack goes and what it may affect. Then figure out the best method for repair.

I do a single bruce...i'd rather have better setting and resetting than holding, the wind can change alot around here and knowing the anchor can reset easily if it pops is a nice thing....i also go way overkill on chain (twice the boat length). Like i said, look at what the guys that spend their lives on the water around here use...it's a good example to follow.

I will say that once you start ripping the boat apart to access this be prepared to find other things to fix...gotta love B.O.A.T's!
 

sickcat

Silverback
Aug 5, 2003
3,333
1,346
63
LA
Name
Kerry
Boat
Yellow spot
Looking at the pics it certainly looks like its just excess resin that sagged down to the lowest point when it was built. If that is what it actually is then clean it up with a grinder a little an coat it with epoxy. I have a Glasspar skiff opened up. It has 5 glass stringers in it and most of the low points along the stringers along with the keel look just like that.
 

priapism26ft

I've posted enough I should edit this section
May 20, 2008
287
42
CA.
Name
Bob perry
Boat
26ft Radon
NOT GOOD , You need to think real hard about how much that hull is worth. You are getting ready to open a HUGE can of worms !! Good Luck
 
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gecsr1

28' Aquasport "Reel Adventure II"
Jul 15, 2005
13,808
3,485
Poway Ca
Name
Gary
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28' Aquasport "Reel Adventure II" / PlainJaneRods
NOT GOOD , You need to think real hard about how much that hull is worth. You are getting ready to open a HUGE can of worms !! Good Luck
so you see a little crack and your ready to run... a smart man will investigate, and then make the appropriate repair... which most likely will be done in this case....

have a great day....
 

meandmyself

Who knows
Aug 5, 2012
528
205
san jose
Name
edgar teixeira
Boat
1991 Farallon Whaleback 25 Rock Bottom
Just looks like a resin crack to me, as long as it not the glass cloth it’s fine.
 
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stangclassic66

USCG Master
Oct 21, 2004
1,364
776
San Diego/SF Bay
Name
Capt. Erik
Boat
21' Center Console
First off that's not a stringer, that's the keel of the hull.

Secondly, even if this is just a grind and re-glass job, it's a big job.

You're talking about removing all the foam in the way as well as all the bulkheads that run along that crack. From what it looks like you're in the v-berth of your boat, that means there's a bulkhead between the v-berth and the cockpit, maybe your fuel tank is located aft of that bulkhead, so that has to be pulled, then there's probably another bulkhead aft of the fuel tank if the crack actually goes down that far. If they are structural bulkheads then those bulkheads run from port to starboard.

So essentially, if you do this job, your

1. taking the decks and all the bulkheads apart.
2. Then you'll have to grind it all down, glass it all up.
3. Reinstall and glass up the bulkheads along with refoaming
4. Replace fuel tank if weathered and pressure test fails
5. Reinstall and/or glass deck

If you do this yourself, I'll estimate between $1500-2500

If you ask a boat yard to do the work, I estimate $3000-4500. Yard labor ain't cheap.
 
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farhangs

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Aug 29, 2005
458
204
46
Aliso Viejo, CA
Name
bent deck-hose
Boat
Fresh One
I'd remove everything necessary to address the issue properly...you need to see how far that crack goes and what it may affect. Then figure out the best method for repair.

I do a single bruce...i'd rather have better setting and resetting than holding, the wind can change alot around here and knowing the anchor can reset easily if it pops is a nice thing....i also go way overkill on chain (twice the boat length). Like i said, look at what the guys that spend their lives on the water around here use...it's a good example to follow.

I will say that once you start ripping the boat apart to access this be prepared to find other things to fix...gotta love B.O.A.T's!

Not claiming to know shit about shit, but heard a story from a very knowledgeable captain who was running a boat that had 2x the boat length (~70 feet) of chain. They anchored in 40 feet of water of water to fish sea bass on the beach at Catalina. When they were done, the anchor was stuck. As they were maneuvering around to pull it free, they ended up directly above it with the chain in the winch. As luck would have it a fairly large swell rolled through and with the chain in the winch, there was no give. They buckled the entire bow and almost ripped it off the boat. Somehow they got free and limped in to Avalon, brown shorts and all. They use shorter chain now.
 

Mr Lingcod

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Mar 20, 2017
106
45
Santa Barbara
Name
Jesse
Boat
The Last Soviet
Not claiming to know shit about shit, but heard a story from a very knowledgeable captain who was running a boat that had 2x the boat length (~70 feet) of chain. They anchored in 40 feet of water of water to fish sea bass on the beach at Catalina. When they were done, the anchor was stuck. As they were maneuvering around to pull it free, they ended up directly above it with the chain in the winch. As luck would have it a fairly large swell rolled through and with the chain in the winch, there was no give. They buckled the entire bow and almost ripped it off the boat. Somehow they got free and limped in to Avalon, brown shorts and all. They use shorter chain now.
That's a really good counter point. More chain equals more safety, but it's much harder to pull up, especially with a winch, and chain has no give. I use about 25 feet of chain (1X of my boat) and an oversized Danforth. Often, on rocky anchorages, I end up diving down to "unhook it" simply because the Danforth is stuck in the rocks. Like boat hulls themselves, there's no perfect hull like there's no perfect anchor/chain set up. But if you can put yourself in the "right conditions" for your set up, you'll always do better. All that being said, I'm 100% with SBSurfer on the "more chain is better" idea. Maybe if it's stuck in the rocks it's best to pull it up manually.
 

sickcat

Silverback
Aug 5, 2003
3,333
1,346
63
LA
Name
Kerry
Boat
Yellow spot
If your ripping up your bow pulpit its either your pulpit/roller is not built for what your asking of it or your just pulling too hard. Lot of boats use straight chain without doing damage. Just doing a straight hard pull on a hung anchor often will not free it. You have got to get the right angle on it with the boat and work it free.
 

40Grit

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Sep 9, 2009
700
318
Newport Beach California
Name
Steve Brown
Boat
Radovich 34
first glance, this is nothing but a puddle of resin with a crack in it.
in our world of laminating we see this from time to time. if the resin slides down into the bottom of the mold, we will reject the resin, as they have specific thixotropic or Thix assigned to the Resin. vinylester resins are troublesome like this. I wouldn't worry about it at all, my two cents.
 
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40Grit

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Sep 9, 2009
700
318
Newport Beach California
Name
Steve Brown
Boat
Radovich 34
also the woven roving is laped each time the laminated layers are put down. meaning the stem or bow is three and four time the thickness of the bottom and sides. if this was a serious structural issue it would be moving aroundc and you would see it from the outside. additionaly if the laminate had failed you would see fractured roving adjacent the crack. it would look white and fraed.