Upgraded bearings on reels

[Bill W]

The only bearings I need to change is on my Avet LX. Appears the higher drag applied puts stress on the bearings. Harder to crank with heavy drag.

 

[Steve K]

The only bearings I need to change is on my Avet LX. Appears the higher drag applied puts stress on the bearings. Harder to crank with heavy drag.

I’ve heard time and again that the original series of the SX through LX reels didn’t do well with higher drag settings. Corrected with the Raptor series.

 

[hucklongfin]

Avet G2’s are better too. Fish the original Avets within their rated specs and they hold up fine.

 

[ZZZZZ]

Original Trinidad 30. Had Ken remove the variable clicker to speed up free spool. By allot. Need a educated thumb not to backlash

Then he added the Cal drag plate and grease. To increase the balls

I did this upgrade to cast farther and to have drag if a large YFT ate the jig on straight tie 50lb trilene big game

First cast at hurricane bank off the bow as the anchor was hanging. A large YFT ate the Raider. 170lb on the TN30 variable clicker removed, cal drag plate and grease added

Took me over 1.5 hours. Rematch 30 minute fish

 

[Guyster]

Original Trinidad 30. Had Ken remove the variable clicker to speed up free spool. By allot. Need a educated thumb not to backlash

Then he added the Cal drag plate and grease. To increase the balls

I did this upgrade to cast farther and to have drag if a large YFT ate the jig on straight tie 50lb trilene big game

First cast at hurricane bank off the bow as the anchor was hanging. A large YFT ate the Raider. 170lb on the TN30 variable clicker removed, cal drag plate and grease added

Took me over 1.5 hours. Rematch 30 minute fish

View attachment 1445287

Funny, I did the exact same thing on #150 at the bank. It tore up the pinion gears and the infinite anti-backlash. Took it to shimano , they fixed it, but the repair dude looked at me like I was crazy.
Now all my Wahoo is done with a Avet HXJ Raptor, full of #80 spectra and a #130 fluoro wind-on and a calstar 800XH, #30 of drag just in case.

 

[Rimack]

Funny, I did the exact same thing on #150 at the bank. It tore up the pinion gears and the infinite anti-backlash. Took it to shimano , they fixed it, but the repair dude looked at me like I was crazy.
Now all my Wahoo is done with a Avet HXJ Raptor, full of #80 spectra and a #130 fluoro wind-on and a calstar 800XH, #30 of drag just in case.

I wasn't able to get the NHBB bearings order fulfilled so
they ( Motion Ind ) had them replaced with NMB bearings. I'll take that !

 

[fshrprsns]

I may be an outlier, but I rarely have to replace bearings. I have a dozen Avets that get fished HARD. I service them with oil after every long range trip. My most common replacement is the pair of handle bearings. Measure ID in fractions, OD in fractions and thickness in fractions for all small SX to JX reels. Use metric ID, OD and thickness for larger reels. Go to eBay, search in that order (ID, OD & thickness shielded SS bearings) and for $1 each you have a brand new excellent bearing very similar or exactly the same as Avet. Oil them well and use almost forever. Designer oil if you wish or use GetSome like me.

Mark, thanks, as always, for your terrific input!
A couple questions:
1). Lots of digital calipers out there. Any specific recommendation?
2). Sometimes the Avet bearings have a fairly soft fibrous cover. Removal with a small circle hook even I can accomplish. Those metal covered ones, however, are a different beast. Especially the smaller versions. Pearls of wisdom for their removal?
Again, thanks for your many contributions to the Avet site! Lots of fun learning how to take care of my own stuff, not to mention the $$$ saved!!

 

[swami 805]

The metal covers aren’t hard to get off, I use a fish hook and pop them out with that. I use a small pair of vice grips to hold them. I clean them out with carburetor cleaner then add your lube of choice.

 

[Steve K]

On cleaning a stuck bearin, I always start with that before ordering a new one. Have found that it can be dried salt water and it just stops the bearings from rolling. A soak in some hot water dissolves the dried up crunch and a thorough rinse is next. Follow that with some compressed air or a shot from an aerosol can of Corrosion-X. Now give it the lube it needs, oil or grease.

 

[Bill W]

Personally think there is a balance between sports car and utility vehicle when it comes to lubrication and shielded bearings. I doubt the reel manufacturer that shows a spool that spins for minutes as if you need it. As soon as the cast starts you are feathering the spool for over spin during the cast.

 

[Roadrunner]

Mark, thanks, as always, for your terrific input!
A couple questions:
1). Lots of digital calipers out there. Any specific recommendation?
2). Sometimes the Avet bearings have a fairly soft fibrous cover. Removal with a small circle hook even I can accomplish. Those metal covered ones, however, are a different beast. Especially the smaller versions. Pearls of wisdom for their removal?
Again, thanks for your many contributions to the Avet site! Lots of fun learning how to take care of my own stuff, not to mention the $$$ saved!!

here is a picture of Avet bearing sizes from an Alani Tani thread click here for thread

If they are hard to read, just go to the link above the picture. Hope this helps.


I just got my order of Fast Eddy bearings today. 80 bearings total so they ran about a buck or so each. Have my pile of Fathom 2 speeds to prep for next season. Will experiment with these new bearings

Shout out to Mark Mayo for this info/tip.