The Journey
- Thread starter goatram
- Start date
Steve
I was going for a replacement of my current engines. Simple remove and replace of my mechanical controlled engines. I was not going to get my new motors till April for the Counter Rotation and May for the Standard Rotation. Just after Christmas, Mark Ashley called me and asked if I wanted to get the ISTs now. Cost was about $6500 more for the motors and all of my rigging for the 2 stations. Both Mark Coleman and Patrick Walker both said that the ISTs are an improvement.
Yamaha and Suzy's are new to my boat requiring rerigging of the boat. Also availablity is as bad or worse for delivery. Bo being a manufacturer he gets the motors first before the local dealers. That info was verified by a couple of local dealers. Calling them also saved me some money with No. I got price matching from Defiance.
I will say I do like my old motors. They have served me well. The reason I'm swapping is I have the money now. I should have worry free service for the next 10years on both my motors and Electronics. I'm 62 this year. 10 years I'll be 72 and giving my boat to my son to own and maintain.
I ain't dumb.
I was going for a replacement of my current engines. Simple remove and replace of my mechanical controlled engines. I was not going to get my new motors till April for the Counter Rotation and May for the Standard Rotation. Just after Christmas, Mark Ashley called me and asked if I wanted to get the ISTs now. Cost was about $6500 more for the motors and all of my rigging for the 2 stations. Both Mark Coleman and Patrick Walker both said that the ISTs are an improvement.
Yamaha and Suzy's are new to my boat requiring rerigging of the boat. Also availablity is as bad or worse for delivery. Bo being a manufacturer he gets the motors first before the local dealers. That info was verified by a couple of local dealers. Calling them also saved me some money with No. I got price matching from Defiance.
I will say I do like my old motors. They have served me well. The reason I'm swapping is I have the money now. I should have worry free service for the next 10years on both my motors and Electronics. I'm 62 this year. 10 years I'll be 72 and giving my boat to my son to own and maintain.
I ain't dumb.
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I was thinking of adding manual Jackplates to my girls ass. My son Jamie said fuck that; get Hydraulic ones. So started the mind to think about that. $2500 for two Bob's Jackplates.
Add $100 for the all in one from Atlas
Question for you all. Any one have experience with them. I've used the manual one on my Northriver, "Tin Lizzy"
6 inch ones is the one I would get. I do have a call out to @Spokaloo . He's at work tonight an I will touch base with him. Tomorrow some pictures of my transom. I can move them out 4" each till they are close to the edge and my trim tab actuator mount.
Add $100 for the all in one from Atlas
Question for you all. Any one have experience with them. I've used the manual one on my Northriver, "Tin Lizzy"
6 inch ones is the one I would get. I do have a call out to @Spokaloo . He's at work tonight an I will touch base with him. Tomorrow some pictures of my transom. I can move them out 4" each till they are close to the edge and my trim tab actuator mount.
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My son Jamie sent these to me this morning. The I beam clamp worked like a champ. Someone gave it to him. Before I used a short length of chain over the beam.
There are three eyes on the motor to lift from. Had to rig another set of chains to hook to the chainfall. Easy but time consuming to fid the bits in my shop.
Motors are disconnected and ready to come off. The brown goo is cosmalin. I have sprayed my motors down before with other stuff that evaporated. This stuff sticks and stays. Just a bit messy.
Coming off
Now to clean the transom up.
There are three eyes on the motor to lift from. Had to rig another set of chains to hook to the chainfall. Easy but time consuming to fid the bits in my shop.
Motors are disconnected and ready to come off. The brown goo is cosmalin. I have sprayed my motors down before with other stuff that evaporated. This stuff sticks and stays. Just a bit messy.
Coming off
Now to clean the transom up.
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wdlfbio
Once you go Cat, you never go back
Nathan is considering adding jackplates to Feral and I’m seriously thinking about a set for #2. Hydraulic for sure. They may increase efficiency a tad, which over time could offset the cost. That increased efficiency would also lend to slightly greater range. Another consideration is that when we’re in a big following sea, we could lower the motors down quite a bit more, then trim them up a bunch to really lift the bow.
Other than the cost, I’m not sure what the downside is.
Other than the cost, I’m not sure what the downside is.
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You ain't BD OSHA! YOU HAVE NO Jurisdiction, No Authority, neither given or transferred. Gary has it right. The Dear Leader is in AZ. A Commie Sympathizer will be block. Just saying Da Boot Recruit!
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So this week I started to remove my electronics. Most of it is removed as are a lot of the cables. I still need to bend down and remove the Flux Compass, the Precision 9. It down under the floor. The Simrad Autopilot is ready to come out as well. My son Jamie showed up and helped. We drained the oil out of the steering system.
I also removed all of the old Honda Outboard wiring cables. Need help to get the control conduit off of the transom. Last night I made the plugs to fit into the old motor mount bolt holes. 5/8" dia rod was cut and the end was turned down on the lathe. The transom holes were cleaned and on the aft face of the transom the holes were in larger to 5/8". The plugs were drilled to a 20 5/32" to help guide them into the holes. The transom holes also got a chamfer so one they are welded up I can grind them flush.
Found a YouTube video of a new 90° die grinder. In the video they mention the cost of the made in China as $80. The tool uses small carbide cutting pieces. The tool is adjustable and will cut either steel or aluminum. Works great.
Imy trim tabs are buried on the bottom of my hull. I intend to extend them by 6". The current tabs still need to be cleaned and then chamfered, then weld on the extension and doubler. The lenco actuators will then be mounted a little more aft. The bottom of the tabs will be pressed up and then the actuator mount holes will be redrilled and then the mounts will be rebooted down. I included the picture of one of the tabs. They are 10" wide and about 12" long. Currently they work but do not force the bow down as well as the ones on my old North River. A set of 18"X10" should excert more force. They can be trimmed if needed.
The picture above is what the little toole tool does to the edges. Should get full penetration and even after grinding the flat the strength will still be there. The doubler plate on top will ensure no cracks or bending.
Hopefully next weekend I will get to do the welding required. And drill the new mount holes for the motors. Also need to fabricate the rear helm and run the new control cables.
I also removed all of the old Honda Outboard wiring cables. Need help to get the control conduit off of the transom. Last night I made the plugs to fit into the old motor mount bolt holes. 5/8" dia rod was cut and the end was turned down on the lathe. The transom holes were cleaned and on the aft face of the transom the holes were in larger to 5/8". The plugs were drilled to a 20 5/32" to help guide them into the holes. The transom holes also got a chamfer so one they are welded up I can grind them flush.
Found a YouTube video of a new 90° die grinder. In the video they mention the cost of the made in China as $80. The tool uses small carbide cutting pieces. The tool is adjustable and will cut either steel or aluminum. Works great.
Imy trim tabs are buried on the bottom of my hull. I intend to extend them by 6". The current tabs still need to be cleaned and then chamfered, then weld on the extension and doubler. The lenco actuators will then be mounted a little more aft. The bottom of the tabs will be pressed up and then the actuator mount holes will be redrilled and then the mounts will be rebooted down. I included the picture of one of the tabs. They are 10" wide and about 12" long. Currently they work but do not force the bow down as well as the ones on my old North River. A set of 18"X10" should excert more force. They can be trimmed if needed.
The picture above is what the little toole tool does to the edges. Should get full penetration and even after grinding the flat the strength will still be there. The doubler plate on top will ensure no cracks or bending.
Hopefully next weekend I will get to do the welding required. And drill the new mount holes for the motors. Also need to fabricate the rear helm and run the new control cables.
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Air Chamfer Tool Deburring Tool for Metal, Air Beveling Tool Mini Chamfering Machine Pneumatic Small Handheld Grinder for Inner Hole and Metal Edge Deburring Amazon product
Here is the video and the link for Amazon. The carbide tips have 6 cutting edges and cost $30 for ten.
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Rear helm is being fabricated.
First rendition. Found a few issues so far. I have twin sliding doors. After mounting a 3 inch wide X 9 inch long Angle to my side wing on the back deck above my Kicker Binicle.
Here is the aft station. Consists of the Binicle,
(The ISTs Binicle does not have the trim switches on the port stick.) The Trim Switch is to the left. Below the trim sw there is the engine on an off sw. To left of that is the Raymarine JOG Stick. The aft station will not have a helm with a steering wheel.
The Honda ISTs use 1 master key switch instead of one for each engine. Turn on the key and push a button to start your engine. Cool but it will take up more space for the panels.
I got a engine mount plate to drill the new holes to mount the engines. More pictures of the transom forth coming.
First rendition. Found a few issues so far. I have twin sliding doors. After mounting a 3 inch wide X 9 inch long Angle to my side wing on the back deck above my Kicker Binicle.
Here is the aft station. Consists of the Binicle,
(The ISTs Binicle does not have the trim switches on the port stick.) The Trim Switch is to the left. Below the trim sw there is the engine on an off sw. To left of that is the Raymarine JOG Stick. The aft station will not have a helm with a steering wheel.
The Honda ISTs use 1 master key switch instead of one for each engine. Turn on the key and push a button to start your engine. Cool but it will take up more space for the panels.
I got a engine mount plate to drill the new holes to mount the engines. More pictures of the transom forth coming.
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Because of the slider door I had to cut and make spacers out of half inch plate.
Here is the wife view of the back deck the helm was spaced off of the Angle attach plate mounted to my starboard wing. The throttles full forward does not contact the speaker.
The close up view of the helm. You can sea the #Raymarine Jog Switch that inter acts with the #Raymarine AP to steer the boat from the back deck. Top switches are the trim and tilt. The bottom switches are the engine on an off switches. Don't need no emergency cut off switch.
Here is the wife view of the back deck the helm was spaced off of the Angle attach plate mounted to my starboard wing. The throttles full forward does not contact the speaker.
The close up view of the helm. You can sea the #Raymarine Jog Switch that inter acts with the #Raymarine AP to steer the boat from the back deck. Top switches are the trim and tilt. The bottom switches are the engine on an off switches. Don't need no emergency cut off switch.
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I have a seat there already. Also have the kicker binnicles on the wing also.
I have the old AP24 control mount hole there as well. In your drawing mark up you can see the items I'm talking about. Also the helm is tucked up and out of the weather. The seat can still be sat in when fishing.
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_It has been a few days since I updated this thread. FYI to you all. Just after the new year I slipped an fell on my driveway. Screwed up my left leg/hip. I don't bend I break. The artificial hip implants will crack the upper thigh bone. I did it in Jan 2016. The pain was the same this time. I didn't go to the doc's office because nothing can be done unless it totally breaks out. Otherwise be extra careful. Right?
So my son Jamie came over and welded up the holes in the transom.
The trim tabs were extended bu 6"L by 10"W. I chamfered the top and bottom of both edges of the parts. Then a 8" X 8" X 0.190 doubler was welded on top. The taps are now 17" X 10". Still need to put another coat of bottom pain-t on her so it will get done later in April.
I took the welds down flush on the transom. I borrowed a motor mount drill plate to locate the mount holes. I copied the plate to 2 chunks of 3/8" plate. Welded up a top horizontal plate to locate the drill plate. I used a #30 drill bit then a drill cup to bring the holes up to the required 0.500 final diameter
My idea of using Jackplates got shot down. The Trim Tab upper mount will not allow the Jackplate to be mounted. I even modified a kicker 5.5" plate to get the same kicker setback as the mains.
This morning I borrowed a neighbor's Kioti Tractor to move the motors around in the back yard. My tractor had it's oil pan destroyed Monday night. I let a certain young red-headed step child borrow it. It's at the dealers shop in Monroe for repair.
The motors were hung today. Only 4 scratches on the Starboard engine cowl courtesy of my lovely bride. She helped. Even drove the tractor a bit. Old wife would not have done it.
So my son Jamie came over and welded up the holes in the transom.
The trim tabs were extended bu 6"L by 10"W. I chamfered the top and bottom of both edges of the parts. Then a 8" X 8" X 0.190 doubler was welded on top. The taps are now 17" X 10". Still need to put another coat of bottom pain-t on her so it will get done later in April.
I took the welds down flush on the transom. I borrowed a motor mount drill plate to locate the mount holes. I copied the plate to 2 chunks of 3/8" plate. Welded up a top horizontal plate to locate the drill plate. I used a #30 drill bit then a drill cup to bring the holes up to the required 0.500 final diameter
My idea of using Jackplates got shot down. The Trim Tab upper mount will not allow the Jackplate to be mounted. I even modified a kicker 5.5" plate to get the same kicker setback as the mains.
This morning I borrowed a neighbor's Kioti Tractor to move the motors around in the back yard. My tractor had it's oil pan destroyed Monday night. I let a certain young red-headed step child borrow it. It's at the dealers shop in Monroe for repair.
The motors were hung today. Only 4 scratches on the Starboard engine cowl courtesy of my lovely bride. She helped. Even drove the tractor a bit. Old wife would not have done it.
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The Peddler
Living vicariously through others.
Quite a job! Without a few scratches, those new motors would look out of place. She knew that.
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Sally my red-headed step child will put his line in my prop this coming year. Don't fret on that. The crab pot line is a possibility. No need to wish it upon me. Thought we's frens
I need to fix my free Lexus RX300 that @BBQ BOB gave me. The car runs but that check engine light has been off an on for the last 2 years. Fix one thing and something else pops up. I need to again remove and replace the #2 bank knock sensor. This requires the intake to be removed AGAIN! I did the repair in Sept. I used the knock sensors from Napa. I was told that I need to use original equipment ones. Car Quest stocks original manufacturer parts.
As a side note the #Raymarine Electronics are coming in. I now of the AP, Radar, one of the 12" head units, the 2 airmar 175 in hull transducers, and the back deck camera.
So tomorrow work my car and then back to the boat. Need to cut two holes in my back deck for hatches. One more over my fuel tank and a 8" round for access to the 3" conduit under the deck. Need to route the engine harness to the rear helm.
I also got my new Aluminum Stools for my Scotty DR's. I also got the 200lb braid to put on the new spools. No more split Plastic Spools due to the braid. I even stuck .040" aluminum sheet around the spools. I still split it somehow.
A BD Member on here is making them. Come in Blue Or Red. Eye candy.
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No!
I got the Quantum 2.
I do want to get the new Autoplilot Remote that is rumoured to be coming out soon.
I got the Quantum 2.
I do want to get the new Autoplilot Remote that is rumoured to be coming out soon.
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Trevor is a client of mine, he's got a biz in Bonney Lake called East Hill Hydraulic Repair, big machine shop as I recall
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I am a little concerned about salty wet braid compromising the anodizing on those and probably will let a few of you beta test them first. How long have they been available and anybody have a few seasons on them to allay my fears?
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