The Build Begins... New Model 2018 Parker 2320 (new transom)

Discussion in 'Parker Boats - The Tradition Continues' started by Fishingguy, May 22, 2018.

  1. rsrutkowski

    rsrutkowski Rick

    Location:
    Sun Valley ID / Dana Point CA
    Name:
    Rick
    Boat:
    Parker 2320 SC....Omega lll
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    Billy
    Can you elaborate on the S5100...read about some issues last year w finding transducers..I am also installing a B175hw and B175l...just curious if you have experience with the S5100 and it's benefits
    Keep it coming boys..how many new 2320s this spring?
     
  2. berto1256

    berto1256 Newbie

    Location:
    san clemente ca
    Name:
    erik
    Boat:
    Parker 2120
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    Billy
    Any reason you went with stainless steal transducers as opposed to bronze transducers? Just curious i have same set up b175hw in bronze
     
  3. stangclassic66

    stangclassic66 USCG Master

    Location:
    San Diego/SF Bay
    Name:
    Capt. Erik
    Boat:
    25’ Parker
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    Simrad discontinued the Bronze model and now only contracts airmar to produce the SS model.

    If you're dead set on Bronze, you can still get a B175hw garmin model and cut off the plug and splice in the correct simrad connector.
     
  4. rsrutkowski

    rsrutkowski Rick

    Location:
    Sun Valley ID / Dana Point CA
    Name:
    Rick
    Boat:
    Parker 2320 SC....Omega lll
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    Billy and other 2018 2320 owners and soon to be owners ( and anyone else..)
    Since this is Billy's build thread not sure if i'm out of line posting what i'm planning for my new 2320...your thoughts
     
  5. Ali

    Ali Master of Nothing Admin

    Location:
    San Diego
    Name:
    That Guy
    Boat:
    31' Innovator
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    Guys,

    The solution you're looking for is a bait tank manifold. It allows you to run multiple tanks and pumps while you direct the flow location and rate. They are really simple to make and I wouldn't own a boat without one. If your bait pump dies, you simply close one valve and open another and hit your back up switch.

    I dont' have time to sketch one out but heres' some good info from Mark Wisch that will get you in the right direction:

    https://pacificedgetackle.com/custom.aspx?id=191

    [​IMG]
     
  6. 7raptor

    7raptor happy to be here

    Location:
    The Islands
    Name:
    yup
    Boat:
    A Big One
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    Now that’s beast mode.
     
  7. InDeepShip

    InDeepShip Well-Known "Member"

    Location:
    Ventura/Vallejo
    Name:
    Adam
    Boat:
    In My Dreams
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    Do you have pumps feeding both sides?
     
  8. Bullshipper

    Bullshipper Well-Known "Member"

    Location:
    Yucaipa/San Carlos, Sonora
    Name:
    Jeff
    Boat:
    Prokat 26
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    I am really amazed at the amount of knowledge being shared on this forum, and would like to contribute in a small way.

    Diaphram or piston pumps will not last their full service life if valved down creating excess pressure. But if you are running open impeller centrifugal live well pumps like a rule, mayfair, johnson, then valving down will actually reduce the amount of amperage (heat) that the motor produces as it puts out less water and does less work, even at higher pressure. Letting these pumps run wide open can burn them out faster as the amperage can go over what they are designed to lift. So when setting these up, I suggest you check the amperage to make sure you are not exceeding the pumps rating to maximize its life, valving down a bit so that each live well gets the flow its inhabitants like, especially when running fast forcing more water through the high speed pickups than when on the drift. Your amp meter will confirm what I am telling you as you open and valve down.

    PVC ball valves work just like on off seacocks, but are are difficult to use if you want to regulate the amount of flow to 2 different sized live wells or livewells running at different water levels or distance from the same pump. Bronze gate valves are much more precise and will not clog either.

    These little bait pumps come with very thin stranded wires.If some of those wired break /corrode it will also increase the resistance and amperage (heat) to their motors. So I personally like to add a little 4200 to the soldered splice prior to putting the shrink tube over that so that it squeezes out the tube when heated. This assures me that everything is now water proof even when under water.

    Working in the bilge is a terrible job, so I hope this also saves you some time down there.I use the cheapy pumps, and have not had to replace one in 20 years.
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2018
  9. InDeepShip

    InDeepShip Well-Known "Member"

    Location:
    Ventura/Vallejo
    Name:
    Adam
    Boat:
    In My Dreams
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    Do not use a gate valve to throttle use a butterfly or a globe valve. Gate valves may be cheap but they are terrible for throttling because you can mess up the seat causing it to not seal properly
     
  10. The Right Kind

    The Right Kind Slave

    Location:
    Santa Barbara
    Name:
    Gary
    Boat:
    The Right Kind - 31' Cabo Express
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    This sea chest came from Parker on a 28'er. Connect anything anywhere with one thru-hull.
    sea chest.jpg sea chest 2.jpg
     
  11. Draglock

    Draglock Newbie

    Name:
    Peter
    Boat:
    Parker 2120
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    Appreciate the post Billy. Currently in the market for a 23 myself and your thread was one the most helpful ones I could find online. Do you mind elaborating on how the cost of a new boat wasn't that much more expensive after all is said and done? From my perspective a new one would would be 30k+ more than a used. Got my last parker 2120 from the east coast and was planning on doing the same for the 2320. However, if Billy the tuna whisperer says something, I've got to at least consider it.
     

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