Spectra Line Abrasion Resistance

Russell77

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Nov 19, 2021
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Russell Schneider
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Have always used mono, but on some local advice, we recently took three of our tuna reels and stripped off some mono and replaced with a top shot of 300 yards of Power Pro 80 pound spectra braid. On the first trip, one of the lines snapped at the tip guide while trolling causing loss of a large Rapala X-Rap. On the bench the next day, we checked the roller tip guide and also dragged the mono and the braid over some rough edges and we were shocked how easily the braid gave way compared to the mono.
I thought this stuff was supposed to be abrasion resistant? Is it just this brand? Thoughts?
PPRussell

UPDATES AND LESSONS LEARNED
First, the "local advice" to use the 80 pound Power Pro for bluefin was from a tackle shop! Next, I checked all the roller guides and guess what? The spacing between the side plates and the roller bearings is enough, when bearing screws are correctly tightened, to allow the 80 pound Spectra to slip right in there. See picture included with this post. The mono, for which these guides were obviously designed, has adequate diameter to prevent it getting in that crevice.
Finally, we always thought those roller guides were "maintenance free". Upon checking dozens of roller tips and guides on our rods we were surprised to learn nothing could be further from the truth. Some were under tightened allowing space for line to slip in between the bearing and side plates. Others were overtightened which inhibited rolling motion unless the line was pulled hard across the roller. Others were sticky even though the rods are always washed down after use.
Spectra Jammed in Roller Guide.jpgThe lesson? Clean, lubricate, tighten and test for free motion of those rollers! Maybe once or twice a season would be adequate. Just don't ignore them like we did. We did not hook up a bluefin on the trip where the line caught in the guide. If we had, it would have been history with our Spectra on those rollers.
So, we are pulling off all the Spectra with spools and a power drill and putting it UNDER the mono. Also, local advice at the tackle shop is not anywhere as good as experience shared by good fishing friends here on BDoutdoors forums.
Russell77
 
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woodfish330

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  • Aug 14, 2012
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    Toms right. Dont forget.... your guide condition is now really important. No slow or stuck rollers. ALWAYS CHECK ALL THE ROLLER GUIDES. Burn right through that spectra.

    Another problem to watch for is the Ceramic Ring Cracking / Chipping. I offen suggest the use of a "Q-tip" to swish the inside of the ring.... to check the ring guides for abrasion..... before every trip....ON EVERY ROD.

    As for the brand.... have used it in the past... and as with all brands of Spectra.... you give something....you get something. Performance "trade outs" for different brands.... doing different jobs. Try another brand for your trolling set up.... maybe that will help as well. Good luck Brother.
     
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    Jurel Hunter

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  • Mar 11, 2007
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    all above is correct AND you need to replace that tip. it has sharp spot on it somewhere
     
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    Mike D.

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    You TOPshotted with braid? That's unusual. Braid should be on the bottom, mono on top. Change out the mono as often as you want, leave the braid. That way you only have to topshot 50-100 yards of mono (and not the entire spool). The only time I really care for a full spool of braid is to feel bites better when rockfishing.
     
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    yessokk

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    Sep 18, 2006
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    For all practical applications spectra has next to ZERO abrasion resistance.
    Constructed an abrasion testing rig to get objective facts. As an example
    20# P-Line Original will break at the 8 revolution mark. Any 60lb spectra will
    break at about the 1/2 revolution mark.
    Used my rod wrapper on the dry setting, 9 RPM, wrapped a 1 1/2" Dowel with
    220 grit sand paper then hanging a 3lb wt from the line to be tested the other end
    attached to a fixed point at the top of the vertical brace. See pic below.
    Walt
    2D2DB778-CDD3-4F7D-B1C1-5DB40ECBA1EC.jpeg
     
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    woodfish330

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  • Aug 14, 2012
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    Like you thoughts brother.... can't argue with consistant " Test Results". A couple of brand to brand comparison with identical strengths? Way to go....Thanks for sharing!!
     
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    Drowningman

    This guys an asshole
  • Oct 25, 2020
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    whoever is your "Local Advice" must hate you...
    around structure bass fishing, always use a strong heavy mono topshot!
    when spectra touches a rock under tension, ZING POW C-Ya!
    YOU MEAN FLUOROCARBON.... mono is NOT abrasive resistance
     
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    dalurker

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    #%^&) !!!
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    YOU MEAN FLUOROCARBON.... mono is NOT abrasive resistance
    Mono is waaaay more abrasion resistant than Braid!!
    Fluoro
    is more abrasion resistant that Mono!

    i use heavy mono cuz i'm cheap...

    got it? you're excused... 😉😉😉
     
    W
    woodfish330
    ..... I'm with you brother. I too...Use mono most of the time. BUT.... will switch to Flouro... when its a "Tought".... bite wise. Maybe have a mono topshot... add Flouro leader...IF NEEDED.
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    woodfish330

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  • Aug 14, 2012
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    Brother....it all depends on the Brand. There are many brands that are Jelly Beans..... hard outer coat.... once penetrated... soft center. So initial abrasion resistance... is good.... until it gets through that outer shell. Its all about the "extrusion" method used in manufacturing.
     
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    yessokk

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    Brother....it all depends on the Brand. There are many brands that are Jelly Beans..... hard outer coat.... once penetrated... soft center. So initial abrasion resistance... is good.... until it gets through that outer shell. Its all about the "extrusion" method used in manufacturing.
    Based on the tests that I have read about,
    Mono is more abrasive resistant than fluoro.

    Both testing methods used sandpaper as the abrasive, as I recall.
    Have tested 5 different fluorocarbon lines 20# .017 and .016 diameter and none of them are more abrasion resistant then P-Line Original 20# monofilament . Do not really have a good understanding of why this is true as the fluorocarbon always "feels" harder as a result of its higher specific gravity, so one would think its abrasion resistance would be better.
     
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    ShadowX

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    Oct 10, 2010
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    Based on the tests that I have read about,
    Mono is more abrasive resistant than fluoro.

    Both testing methods used sandpaper as the abrasive, as I recall.

    I had a different experience. We were fishing in Farnsworth and long soaking some baits. A 30 pound yellowtail took my line and ran it through the rocks since I can feel every single pull. I had 55lb fluorocarbon (8 strand Daiwa samurai or J-braid) with 40 lb fluorocarbon leader (YGK Fune). When I brought it in, the fluoro was beaten to hell and the spectra had lots of nicks and abrasion on it. The line held with no problem. I removed the bad section of spectra and tied a new leader and caught another 30 lb yellowtail. The fish did the same thing and I was able to get it back in with no problems at all.

    My buddy on the other hand, had straight 40 lb mono. He hooked up and fought a similar sized fish twice and lost both. All you need is a small nick on your mono line and when your drag is around 10-20 lbs, its gone. I came back with two nice fish that day and he came home with only memories. I have no doubt the spectra and fluorocarbon leader saved that day. I'm sold on the abrasion resistance of the fluorocarbon line. I should have taken a photo of the line, but it must have had at least a hundreds nicks on the spectra and the fluoro leader. It was so beaten up that I was surprised I was able to bring the fish in.

    As for braid, I think most people never fully tested their braid. If you run it through sandpaper or a few rock edges as a test and it breaks, replace the line. Its garbage. There are so much garbage out there, but people think all braids are the same. Just like with fluorocarbon, there are lots of different types and if you go cheap, you get cheap quality.

    I know its personal experience instead of experiments, but I have no doubt my spectra and fluoro has survived a beating. Those homeguard yellowtail beasts in Farnsworth know how to go through the rocks to break the line. Its the ultimate test in my opinion. People who fished in Farnsworth and hooked up those homeguards know exactly what I'm talking about.
     
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    woodfish330
    Brother.... they can write all they want... but nothing to me beats personal experience.... on the spot. Those were expensive lessons to learn.... You were paying attention. Good for you. Better angler for it!!
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    S
    ShadowX
    Exactly. I was practically using the same gear as my buddy except I had fluoro and spectra. If you saw the frayed lines and all the nicks, you would have thought it was a miracle the line survived. I always check my line and knots after a fight to make sure there are no nicks. I lost enough fish to make it a habit.
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    S
    ShadowX
    I had some cheap PowerPro spectra and I was not impressed. The lines seems to snap off randomly at times. I removed and banned that braid from any of my reels. If the line is relatively stiff and you see it turn whitish, its about to break. Anyways, that is my experience with that brand. The only one I think is decent for a good price is 8 strand J-braid from Daiwa.
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    ShadowX

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    Oct 10, 2010
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    The video below shows a good comparison. I just don't believe a rotating sandpaper on the same section of line the same as the real world. This guy rubs section of the line over the edge of a cement block. I think that is closer to reality when the line rub over sharp rock edges. Maybe the best way is to try both methods on the same line to see if there is a difference.

    My opinion is that the mono in the experiment has relatively smooth surfaces so the sandpaper has less effect on it. On the other hand, the braid has strands that make up the line and its weaved together. When the sand paper is rotated against the line, it may snag the smaller strands and try to stretch the line. In the real world, its unlikely because the line is under water and that lubricates the line to make it more slippery than when its dry. With the mono, the sandpaper has nothing to grab against the line, so it just rubs away at the surface. In the real world, when mono hits a sharp rock under high tension, its done.

     
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    dalurker

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    Dec 23, 2004
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    #%^&) !!!
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    MY "Real World Experience":
    i use a slightly higher test spectra than my topshot EG: 65lb spectra & 40lb mono.
    mono comes back fried, but bass is still attached!

    when using straight braid/spectra, ZING POW!

    JMHO ~ "Case Closed"...
    1638730763581.jpeg
     
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    ShadowX
    If you are tying the hook straight braid, I learned that I need a different knot than what I normally use for mono or fluorocarbon. The normal knots won't hold and if under pressure, it would slip easily. I personally haven't fished straight spectra since it has hardly any stretch. It might be shock loading that causes the spectra to snap off too. Abrasion resistance vs shock loads are different subjects.
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    dalurker

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    @ShadowX
    so true! but evidence of "shredding" was apparent... never a clean break which led me to know the failure was due to abrasion and not shock. VALID POINT THOUGH!
     
    S
    ShadowX
    It usually works together. The line gets abraded and when the fish suddenly tugs and your drag is high, the shock load would be enough to snap the line right at the weak point. With mono or a fluoro leader, there is some shock absorption. With spectra, I usually fish using a rod with a soft tip. The soft tip provides the shock absorption that the mono would have provided.
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    jiggermyster

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    Dec 12, 2003
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    I was jigging cods out at Cherry Banks one day.

    80# spectra, 3 feet of 60# mono and a 2 pound TNT.
    One drop, I'm jiggling the jig and the line goes slack.
    No bump, no tug, just nothing.

    Wind up to find some very frayed spectra where it rubbed on the rocks.
     
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    ShadowX

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    Oct 10, 2010
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    I was jigging cods out at Cherry Banks one day.

    80# spectra, 3 feet of 60# mono and a 2 pound TNT.
    One drop, I'm jiggling the jig and the line goes slack.
    No bump, no tug, just nothing.

    Wind up to find some very frayed spectra where it rubbed on the rocks.

    I bet it was shock loading along with the abrasion on that spectra. Rubbing on rocks and you suddenly pull a 2 lb weight up and down, it doesn't take much to snap it off under that condition. I never tie surface jigs directly to the spectra for the same reason too. One bad cast, the jig would be lost to davey's locker.
     
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    dalurker

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    Dec 23, 2004
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    one more real life experience:
    some solid "Braids" will "snap" easier than some solid "Spectras".
    i've snapped Izor Braid vs JB Solid Spectra won't snap when tying...
     
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    jiggermyster

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    I bet it was shock loading along with the abrasion on that spectra. Rubbing on rocks and you suddenly pull a 2 lb weight up and down, it doesn't take much to snap it off under that condition. I never tie surface jigs directly to the spectra for the same reason too. One bad cast, the jig would be lost to davey's locker.
    That's what was so shocking.
    Cherry Banks is 900-1000' and very snaggly.
    Find bottom then wind 20-30 cranks to stay out of the stalagmites.
    There was no suddenly about it. Just casually raising the jig 5 feet and letting it fall... until the time it didn't fall.

    I got burned off one time on the way up.
    When we ran back up the line to fetch our floaters we came upon my fish.
    Prehistoric warthog with a blue shark munching on its tail.
    The shark hadn't busted the air bladder yet so I got back half a 'hog and my 2# TNT jig.
     
    S
    ShadowX
    I never fished there before. Perhaps it would be better in your case to have a 10-20 ft topshot of mono or fluoro. That is way deeper than I have fished given our rockfish depth limits in the US side. You definitely need some spectra given the problem with line stretch with other line types. For me, when the jig doesn't fall, it means FISH ON!
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    Cubeye

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    one more real life experience:
    some solid "Braids" will "snap" easier than some solid "Spectras".
    i've snapped Izor Braid vs JB Solid Spectra won't snap when tying...
    Please clarify.
    What exactly is "Braid"?
    Isn't Izor line made with Spectra?
     
    Bill W
    Bill W
    Spectra is a specific trademark Honeywell product. Braid is a catch all.
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