Socal party boat rod and reel setup input

Senator30

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Nov 18, 2020
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I got a pro sabre 20-40lb, 8ft, and sealine x30 and sl50.

Im going to be doing the regular 1 day party boat out of long beach, mdr, ventura, possibly san diego.

Im guessing yellowtail is my main fish. I dont know the situation with tuna. This will be my first season.

My question: Should i keep both reels or is one a better pair than thr other to the rod for the type of fish i will encounter locally? And what size line should i get for which reel?

I dont know if i should use the one rod and have two reels with different line weights or get a second rod for the second reel.

Also is the sealine 50 much different than a 30? It seems theyre both 30lb reels with thr 50 having more capacity.
 
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KXKH

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I'd say keep both and get another rod for the sl50. For the x30 reel, I'd go with 50lbs bright color braid (white, yellow, blue, pink, rainbow) and topshot it with about 50-100 yards of 30lbs mono, you then can add 4-5ft of 25lbs to 30lbs fluorocarbon leader on it, depending what they're biting that day.

The sl50 I would add 65lbs braid then top shot of 50-100 yards of 40lbs mono and add a 4-5ft of 40lbs fluorocarbon leader. I like long mono topshot so you can just cut the line and tie on a leader real quick with a surgeon's knot. A lot easier to deal with when you do get tangled up as well. I'm assuming you're planning to bait fish only for your first trip on your first season to get a feel for it.
 
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Senator30

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I want to live bait, surface iron, and yoyo.

Im assuming 30 fot surface iron and bait and 50 for yo yo and other stuff thst require going deep.

So the 30 is good for 25-30lb and 50 for 40lb?
 
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KXKH

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The SL50 is a bit wide, but if you can guide line just fine on it then it'll work for both surface iron and yoyo without buying another reel. I'd say 65lbs braid with 100 yards of 40lbs mono top shot. Then add a tactical angler clip on it to swap out the lures without retying.
 
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KXKH

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I would go straight 25lbs on the x30 instead due to capacity. You may or may not need that fluorocarbon leader, depending how finicky the fish are that day. If the deckhands or captain says fluorocarbon leader, you'll more than likely will need it. Bring a spool of 25lbs and 30lbs...maybe 20lbs as well.

Straight 40lbs on the SL50 would work.
 
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Senator30

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Sounds good. Thanks for the help.

Another q: Regarding the rod for sl50. I read that a shorter rod is preferred to yoyo. Since i have an 8ft already, should i get a 6ft for it?
 
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KXKH

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I would get at least an 8ft with it if you plan to throw surface iron, 8ft length will work just fine for yoyo.
 
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jiggermyster

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Im not confident in my knots. Id rather go straight mono. Should i do 30 on x30 and 40 on sl50?
Take the reels to your local tackle shop and have them put the line on.
They'll do the braid/mono connection while you watch and learn.
 
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Senator30

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Whats rhe advantage of 50lb braid to 30lb mono if the weak link is 30lb mono and my pulling strength is limited to 30lbs, not 50lbs. What happens it if gey 30lb braid and 30ln mono?
 
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KXKH

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Whats rhe advantage of 50lb braid to 30lb mono if the weak link is 30lb mono and my pulling strength is limited to 30lbs, not 50lbs. What happens it if gey 30lb braid and 30ln mono?

Your knot is the weakest link, 30lbs braid to mono knot is more likely to fail than 50lbs braid. And I rather get tangled up with 50lbs braid than 30lbs.
 
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Carl

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    Whats rhe advantage of 50lb braid to 30lb mono if the weak link is 30lb mono and my pulling strength is limited to 30lbs, not 50lbs. What happens it if gey 30lb braid and 30ln mono?
    You'll be paying a lot of extra $ for yardage you don't need.
    Also, your connection knot will be stronger if it makes the water during a fight.

    Just because it says 30lb on packaging doesn't mean it breaks at 30 but that's a separate discussion.

    I'd probably recommend you go with a shorter than 8ft rod for that 50.
    Sounds like you are gonna need something versatile for rockfish and YT dropperloop and yoyo.
     
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    Senator30

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    Im certain my knots are going to be the weakest link. Would it be better for a beginner to go either straight mono or straight braid?
     
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    jiggermyster

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    Whats rhe advantage of 50lb braid to 30lb mono if the weak link is 30lb mono and my pulling strength is limited to 30lbs, not 50lbs. What happens it if gey 30lb braid and 30ln mono?
    For most inshore fishing, the braid is just filler.

    It is so much smaller in diameter than mono so you can use higher test braid and have the same or more capacity.

    With a hundred yards of mono, much of your fishing the braid doesn't even get wet.

    The alternative is throwing away a lot of mono that never saw daylight, when the time comes to replace your line.
    Sure, you could splice new mono onto the old mono, but there is that whole knot thing again.
     
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    Senator30

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    You'll be paying a lot of extra $ for yardage you don't need.
    Also, your connection knot will be stronger if it makes the water during a fight.

    Just because it says 30lb on packaging doesn't mean it breaks at 30 but that's a separate discussion.

    I'd probably recommend you go with a shorter than 8ft rod for that 50.
    Sounds like you are gonna need something versatile for rockfish and YT dropperloop and yoyo.

    What size rod do you guys recommend for rhe 50 with 40lbs?

    Just so im straight on this: The x30 on 20-40 8ft is my 30lbs setup for casting surface iron and live bait. The sl50 is my 40lbs setup and will be for rockfish and yoyo?
     

    Senator30

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    For most inshore fishing, the braid is just filler.

    It is so much smaller in diameter than mono so you can use higher test braid and have the same or more capacity.

    With a hundred yards of mono, much of your fishing the braid doesn't even get wet.

    The alternative is throwing away a lot of mono that never saw daylight, when the time comes to replace your line.
    Sure, you could splice new mono onto the old mono, but there is that whole knot thing again.
    This is news to me. How often are we talking about to replace mono? It goes bad? Braid doesnt go bad? Is that the braid advantage?
     
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    jiggermyster

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    This is news to me. How often are we talking about to replace mono? It goes bad? Braid doesnt go bad? Is that the braid advantage?
    Mono seldom survives long enough to 'go bad'.
    It gets tangled up with other mono, rubbed on the bottom of the boat or rocks under water.
    It gets stretched out when the hook gets hung on the bottom and you have to break it off.
    When mono gets stretched beyond its elasticity in order to break it off, it work hardens and becomes fragile.
    Fortunately, many knots folks tie break well before the elastic limit of mono.
     
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    Senator30

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    Mono seldom survives long enough to 'go bad'.
    It gets tangled up with other mono, rubbed on the bottom of the boat or rocks under water.
    It gets stretched out when the hook gets hung on the bottom and you have to break it off.
    When mono gets stretched beyond its elasticity in order to break it off, it work hardens and becomes fragile.
    Fortunately, many knots folks tie break well before the elastic limit of mono.

    So the strategy is to have the braid filler which lasts longer than mono and replace the topshot of 100yds of mono pretty often? Is that what i should be doing?
     
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    jiggermyster

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    So the strategy is to have the braid filler which lasts longer than mono and replace the topshot of 100yds of mono pretty often? Is that what i should be doing?
    That's how it works.

    There is no set schedule for when to replace mono.
    It will last all season or it will last one cast, depending on circumstances.
    It will last years if it is kept room temp and in the dark.

    It's passing under your thumb every time you reel in. Sometimes you'll feel a kink or nick or rough spot. Might be time to replace it, or cut it off and throw away everything after the nick.

    Most folks will cut a couple feet of mono off when they retie. Some pull a few yards off at the beginning of the trip.
    The first few yards get most of the abuse during normal fishing.
    Just have to get a feel for it.
     
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    TanstaaflSD

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    Having owned an SL 50 and still owning an SL 30 I like those reels. I strongly suggest a 7-foot rod for the 50....good YoYo and good bottom (Reds) rod length.
    I second the 40 or 50 mono top shot on top of 50 braid.
    BUT, if you are tentative about fishing, then all mono will work for a few trips....and save you money.
    I suggest looking at BD classified for a good (20~50, or 30~50 pound rated rod) at 7 feet length.... a used Seeker classic, or other good rod, or look for sales in March by fishing stores.
    With an 8 ft rod with a 30 reel (probabably a 6:1 gear ratio) with 30 pound mono line.... and ... a 7 ft rod with a 50 reel with 40 or 50 pound mono you are good for SoCal introductory fishing ..... from Reds to Yellowtail. The 30 reel / 8 ft set-up should cast well, has the drag for most fish, and should be much fun. The 50 reel is solid for YoYo or sinkers on the bottom also much fun.
    Relax and enjoy fishing -- No need to over think it now.
    There is time, after you are 'hooked' you can become a tackle 'hoo like me and many other responders.
    I suggest deferring buying the metal frame reels until you are sure you like the sport -- and keep an eye on BD classifieds and store sales.
    If you decide to go all in, then look for quality and durability with performance. Reels are always key, but until the fish get bigger rods are less critical, except for niche rods like jig sticks or spinning rods (no noodles).
    Tight Lines,
     
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