The 90's saw a huge trend in the FW bass market with soft plastic "stick baits", such as the "Sluggo", the "Fin S Fish", and later the Senko. Recently, many saltwater bass anglers have realized the wide range of applications of these types of plastics for Calico, Sand, and S.Bay Bass. Mostly the larger slugs are rigged with big, offset wide gap hooks, often with some weight on the shank to get the baits down a bit, and impart a different darting action. Sometimes those using these big plastics for the first time, with the 7/0 to 12/0 matching hooks, are concerned with the "hooking" factor, but this quickly diminishes when they see the way even moderate size calico bass try to destroy these baits. You have to admit though, even regular size (5 inch) swimbaits with exposed jighead single hooks often get short bit. Here is a way I fish slugs with one, or even two treble hooks, mounted on the top of the slug, so it does not get hung up that badly in the kelp or boiler rocks. Take a leadhead (out of your forearm) and cut off the hook. The one below is only 3/8 oz.; sometimes I go down to a quarter ounce for smaller slugs. A big slug with 3/8 oz. up in the head will still dart nicely, and sink very slowly. Take some 100 lb. spectra, and tie your fav knot to the collar of the jighead. I hit this with waterproof superglue (Japanese stuff, you can find at Performance Tackle), and it will not slip a bit. I then tie a Perfection Loop to the other end, and coat the knot, and the line down to the first knot. This makes the line lay nice and straight. I locked this one in the "up" position. I do just the opposite when I am dragging sand for sandros, or halibut. "The Glue"--I have used this stuff for plastics, and spectra to fluoro joints for the past several years, and it is good stuff. It comes with two snap on tops, that enable you to put a tiny amount of glue where you want it, without spilling. I used to go through a ton of "Zap a Gap" (good stuff!) most of it wasted as it dripped off my swimbait, onto my leg, then finally the deck. This little bottle is "idiot" friendly, which is good for me. I will donate two tubes of this glue to the September Photo Contest winner. So, hit up Jesse if you win (or he will used it to glue his boat together). Anyway, put a few drops on the cut jighead, and insert into the head of your slug. A "dry run" before you do the real deal is advised. Finally, you simply loop on your treble hook, and you are good to go. This loop to (hook eye) loop rigging makes it easy to change hooks. I also like to rig a double hook with this rig. I lock the double hook in place by inserting a toothpick into the back of the bait, then spreading apart the double hook, and clamping it down on the toothpick nub. Finally, a quick way to "tune" your slugs. I cut the hook part off again on a barbed shank worm hook. I make a "tail" by wrapping some mylar tubing (or feathers) on the shank of the hook. Coat with superglue. Then you can simply insert it into the tail of your slug. You can coat the shank with superglue--but then you will not be able to remove it without ripping the plastic. Since the worm hooks have a big, round eye--I insert into the bait... and then run a piece of #100 mono through the plastic and the eye, thus locking it in place. The finished weapon. The slug is one that Big Pancho poured for me. I like the way these dart--and I plan on using them on Japanese Seabass when they return to the river mouths next month. Denek made me some cool spinnerbaits--this is the skirt off one. It looks like it just may make a good slug tail... Try to keep the manscaping to a minimum, and life will be great.