Skipjack 24 FB thru hull help.

daer1303

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Feb 23, 2009
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hacienda heights ca
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tim
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24' skippy flybridge "Two Shaè"
Hey guys I just purchased a b60 20 tilt for my 1972 skippy. going to install it tomorrow but had a question about the hull. I am going to put it on the port side deck hatch just before the motor. My question is do I need to worry about a cored hull where I need to do a lot more work to install it. Or is it just drill my pilot hole, drill outside diameter hole and install. Also I will be using 3m 4200 quick cure sealant. I heard it is ok to put the boat back in the water after an hour or so and that the sealant will cure underwater just fine. Thanks for the help!
 
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kindafishy

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Jul 21, 2010
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pescaloco

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Aug 17, 2005
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Your hull bottom is not cored
Just hole saw your hole and install the transducer
 
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kindafishy

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Jul 21, 2010
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Your hull bottom is not cored
Just hole saw your hole and install the transducer

thats it? you don't use and sealant on a penetration below the waterline?
 
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goatram

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  • Apr 3, 2008
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    thats it? you don't use and sealant on a penetration below the waterline?
    Common sense! One does not need to say; use sealant.

    OP do you plan to change the ducer anytime soon? Even if you do 5200 would be my choice. To change and or remove it a heat gun will soften the sealant. Press on with pride.
     
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    Arima-bob

    Ship faced aquaholic
    Mar 9, 2012
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    uh....
    Thanks guys. Guess I will go with the 5200. I just heard it is a bitch to remove if needed down the road.

    It is! But it can be done. Besides, I like the thought of knowing it's the right stuff for the job.

    If you have to remove it in the future, orange oil or a heat gun work wonders.
     
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    goatram

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  • Apr 3, 2008
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    It cures in moisture.
     
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    bus kid

    rebmem nwonk llew
    Feb 8, 2009
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    After you drill your pilot hole run the hole saw in reverse to score the gelcoat and fiberglass to keep it from chipping. Once you have a clean diameter drill it and post pics. I still dont have the nuts to drill a hole in mine.
     
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    goatram

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  • Apr 3, 2008
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    After you drill your pilot hole run the hole saw in reverse to score the gelcoat and fiberglass to keep it from chipping. Once you have a clean diameter drill it and post pics. I still dont have the nuts to drill a hole in mine.
    Pussy boy? What's it gonna hurt. You can always patch it.

    Ya gotta take a chance and live. Balls out and drill[emoji238] [emoji207] [emoji85]
     
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    bus kid

    rebmem nwonk llew
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    Pussy boy? What's it gonna hurt. You can always patch it.

    Ya gotta take a chance and live. Balls out and drill[emoji238] [emoji207] [emoji85]

    can i practice on yours 1st, my torch is in my truck now.
     
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    MATTANZA

    old man of the sea, in training.
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    I like 4200 because it has some flex in it, either one will work...
    5200 is pretty much permanent, it's more of a glue than a sealer. the best is a poly sulfide or "life caulk". the only draw back is that it softens some plastics.if it's a bronze t/h then i'd use life caulk. and by the way 5200 will cure under water, the process is actually sped up in the water.
     
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    flyhigh123

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    Aug 16, 2012
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    4200 only for me... even 4200 is hard to remove, i've done it on a thru hull transducer. you really dont need the permanent adhesive.
     
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    tanner.s

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    5200 isn't as hard to remove as they all say, some heat and a dissolving solution gets it done pretty fast. Don't take a chance with a thru hull, 5200 it and forget about it. I wouldn't use anything else.

    Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
     
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    goatram

    Notable Member Gate Keeper to the Great Northwest
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    can i practice on yours 1st, my torch is in my truck now.
    I have a few holes in mine. 2 are 4.5" for my SS264N ducers. Burned up a Battery Drill putting that one in. Magic smoke came out of it. No torch required just a hole saw; dude. Ya will get over it. it will be done an over in a few minutes.
     
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    kindafishy

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    MATTANZA

    old man of the sea, in training.
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    5200 isn't as hard to remove as they all say, some heat and a dissolving solution gets it done pretty fast. Don't take a chance with a thru hull, 5200 it and forget about it. I wouldn't use anything else.

    Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
    "heat" and transducers, don't like each other, lol!
     
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    MATTANZA

    old man of the sea, in training.
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    Well if you're replacing it then it doesn't really matter. I don't see any other reason to remove it. Am I missing something?

    Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
    if you have to remove it, then it's an issue. life caulk is best.
     
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    tanner.s

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    if you have to remove it, then it's an issue. life caulk is best.
    What I mean to say is if you need to remove the transducer, it's because the ducer is obsolete or broken, for the most part, so damaging it with heat isn't an issue. Unless you're worried about reselling the thru hull transducer, I don't think using heat would be a problem.
     
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