Shaping the bullet

Dexter Outdoors

Bill W

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  • Jan 12, 2006
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    When you shape the leader for insertion I seem to remember a pen vise used to form the bullet shape. Does anyone have this device? Would be nice to have some device that would aid in forming that bullet. Presently I use a flexible 220 grit sandpaper.
     
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    Salmondave22

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    May 21, 2020
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    When you shape the leader for insertion I seem to remember a pen vise used to form the bullet shape. Does anyone have this device? Would be nice to have some device that would aid in forming that bullet. Presently I use a flexible 220 grit sandpaper.
    07247693-138F-429E-962A-C987091CC6C9.png
     
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    Bill W

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  • Jan 12, 2006
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    Do all pin vise have a center that goes through the whole handle? What size would you recommend? My 150# Fluorocarbon is .052”
     
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    Salmondave22

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    When you shape the leader for insertion I seem to remember a pen vise used to form the bullet shape. Does anyone have this device? Would be nice to have some device that would aid in forming that bullet. Presently I use a flexible 220 grit sandpaper.
    [/QUOTE
    Do all pin vise have a center that goes through the whole handle? What size would you recommend?
    some are hollow, some are not. I don’t go over 100 lb line. The 0-.040 works for me. I use 600 grit. I stick the line out .25- .33 inches. Hole it like a pencil ( but straight up and down) and make 100 circles, dragging the exposed tip around on the paper. With a little experimenting you can create several different styles of points.
     
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    Fishybuzz

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    When you shape the leader for insertion I seem to remember a pen vise used to form the bullet shape. Does anyone have this device? Would be nice to have some device that would aid in forming that bullet. Presently I use a flexible 220 grit sandpaper.


    I have one it is call a pin vise....get a 4 way emery nail file from CVS has 4 different grits from medium to extra fine.
     
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    Bill W

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    Straight up and down is good info. That makes the circle with pressure bending the leader at proper angle. Thanks...
     
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    Bill W

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  • Jan 12, 2006
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    some are hollow, some are not. I don’t go over 100 lb line. The 0-.040 works for me. I use 600 grit. I stick the line out .25- .33 inches. Hole it like a pencil ( but straight up and down) and make 100 circles, dragging the exposed tip around on the paper. With a little experimenting you can create several different styles of points.

    Thanks... will purchase that one on Amazon.
     
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    Rodless_Jim

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    When you shape the leader for insertion I seem to remember a pen vise used to form the bullet shape. Does anyone have this device? Would be nice to have some device that would aid in forming that bullet. Presently I use a flexible 220 grit sandpaper.

    I use a pen vise for this. I have three with me on every trip, just in case.

    I like the double-ended models.

    1607047022382.png
     
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    Russo

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    If that's what you want to call it
    Never used a pin vise for this application. Not a terrible idea, I'm just not sure how necessary it is. I usually just cut the leader with a sharp razor blade at as much of an angle as I can get away with (pressing down in a cleaver type scenario) and then drag the end across a nail file a few times to clean any sharp edges off off the cut. Never had an issue doing it this way.
    This taper is just to assist with insertion. If you are having that much trouble getting the leader into the hollow I would suggest looking at a different brand of braid. Threadlock is easy to deal with in this application.
    Ironically I do have a pin vice in my tool box, It never even occurred to me to try to use it for this.
     
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    Bill W

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    Mainly used for long insertions where the leader end can move with on and off loading. A side cut might want to poke out, but sounds like you have no issues.
     
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    Russo

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    If that's what you want to call it
    Yeah I can see the potential for an issue with the point not being as concentric as possible within the hollow. I do try and taper it down with the nail file pretty well. I really never paid that much attention to how even the point was.

    How much are you typically inserting on say a 100# leader? I would normally be in about 24-30" from the serve. You have me curious when you say "long" insertions.

    I am far from an expert on this. I just am referencing what I have done, which by no means qualifies it as correct or best.
     
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    Bill W

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    I am away from long insertions right now. Still the bullet shape, if it can be done quick is what I like. Emphasis on quick. The dragging the 1/4” tag end with the pin vise around say a 6” circle on a sheet of 220 then 600 grit seems to answer my question.
     
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    Steve K

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    As important as ease of insertion, is having a nice taper inside the hollow, no sharp edges. Have heard of failures with broken spectra right where the leader material ends. Nice rounded end is critical to keep the spectra in a smooth transition. Use an emory board nail file and just hold it in my hand, no problem.
     
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    Cubeye

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    Jan 26, 2007
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    This taper is just to assist with insertion.

    You are correct in that it aids in the insertion of the fluoro into the hollow Spectra, but that's not really why the tip is tapered.

    If the tip of the fluoro is not properly tapered, and when tension is applied to the Spectra, the stresses created on the microfibers of the Spectra at that point will cause the hollow to break. They don't break all at once, but as the tension continues , the tiny microfibers will start to break one by one until there is complete failure.

    Please note. I said properly tapered.
     
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    Salmondave22

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    You are correct in that it aids in the insertion of the fluoro into the hollow Spectra, but that's not really why the tip is tapered.

    If the tip of the fluoro is not properly tapered, and when tension is applied to the Spectra, the stresses created on the microfibers of the Spectra at that point will cause the hollow to break. They don't break all at once, but as the tension continues , the tiny microfibers will start to break one by one until there is complete failure.

    Please note. I said properly tapered.
    What do you consider a proper taper?
     
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    Cubeye

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    What do you consider a proper taper?
    Long and cone shaped, with a dull tip. In my opinion, the "bullet shape" is not long enough, but that's the way most people do it and it works. Sort of like a Modified Albright vs an FG Knot. The FG is a much stronger knot, but the Modified Albright works. FYI, a Modified Albright is also known as a RP knot, or Alberto Knot.
     
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    Bill W

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  • Jan 12, 2006
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    Long and cone shaped, with a dull tip. In my opinion, the "bullet shape" is not long enough, but that's the way most people do it and it works. Sort of like a Modified Albright vs an FG Knot. The FG is a much stronger knot, but the Modified Albright works. FYI, a Modified Albright is also known as a RP knot, or Alberto Knot.

    So should I make the taper longer? I do see I need to round the end.
     
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