Discussion in 'San Diego Long Range fishing Reports' started by Soda Pop, Sep 4, 2015.
You mean I shouldnt be using the scale tied on the rod rack for who knows how many trips?
I have had deck crew pull out line to test drag with a fish on and the rod loaded up. Usually they back off my drag. Really? Thanks, but no thanks...
We seem to be occasionally at odds with a crew member over how much drag we should be fishing. Always let them win when first bit and the fish is on its initial sprint. But, I know this, if I’ve got one up and down, maybe finally at deep color, I won’t be concerned about a higher drag pulling the hook, or breaking the line.
I’m about forever done palming or gripping the spool, I start getting cramps in my hand when that goes on and on. Doesn’t matter how much drag I have, if I’m not successfully lifting the fish and getting and keeping the line on the reel, my drag needs a bump.
May require some carrying
I always bring my own scale.....
The crew never touches my drag....they may suggest bumping it up but they do not touch my reel.....IMO palming the spool is a very effective way of gaining line at color especially in heavy seas.....when one is relying just on a heavy drag at color if the fish makes a sudden surge or the boat rolls on a big swell or wave you run the risk IMO of pulling a hook or popping the leader... griping the spool all that is required is opening the hand and the pressure is off......different stokes this is just how I do it....and if you have hand strength issues then I understand using just the drag on the reel.
Both of the big fish I lost on my last trip where on the final circles with part of the top shot in the guides.....I was heavily palming the spool both times....both times the top shot popped. Once in the 135# mono Izor topshot and once in the 130# JB spectra....none of my connections failed, in both cases it was away from the nail knots and glue......I'm convinced it was me palming too hard in the final moments. I'm still a relative newbie at this stuff...I will go a little easier and palm less especially in the final moments on my next opportunity.
135# Izor breaks over 200# and 130# JB breaks over 150#, you may be convinced that palming the reel broke these lines. I doubt you can break the lines without some other factor that you did not consider. Maybe pull the hook but not break the lines as what happened to you.
I am curious if both times you were using the same rod?
Putting a bend in the rod to set the drag is a technique that was started by the East Coast yacht set. They fish their rods in a vertical "rocket launcher" so when they get a strike the rod bends. We fish rods in the horizontal position so when we get a strike the pull goes directly to the spool drag. It is at that point when drag setting is most critical. Too much and you brake off. Too little and you miss the fish. Remember, the yacht guys don't flyline, it's all trolling. For us, go with the straight pull.
So you insert mono into your hollow main line then nail knot and glue?
How far into the hollow did you insert the mono?
Is it possible that the 130 JB Spectra broke where the mono ended inside of the hollow Spectra?
Just trying to get a few more details as to where the spectra broke.
In my premade topshots....I go floro into Hollow about 3 feet. This was 130# pink Yo Zuri into 130# Hollow JB. Two nail knots and Tac Glue about a foot. I then inline splice the top shot into my 130# Hollow JB on my reels when it's time. I normally mark up my line with a sharpie when doing my inline splice so I know I've gone 18" each way. When the JB snapped it was directly in the middle of my 3' of spectra that was on my top shot. I could tell from where the inline splice was compared to the break. Besides the palming I wonder if the the small spool of 130# JB I used for topshots had some deficiency? My brain was churning non stop trying to figure out what went wrong!
I don’t have an ego so big that I won’t let one of the guys have a look at my drag, even touch it. It’s a critical time when you’re first bit and these guys have seen a lot more than I have, so I’m OK with that.
Grabbing the spool with the fingers of my left hand for a little extra pressure is an OK technique, I’ve done it a lot. Putting the fingertips on the flange of th spool works pretty well, too. Fishing a reel that’s properly maintained with smooth greased drags on a rod with a forgiving tip and I don’t have any concern pushing the drag up, with the confidence that my setup is sano.
It’s just that using our fingertips is something we don’t do on a regular basis, so like any overuse of muscles that don’t get regularly worked, any of us is susceptible to cramping if it goes on too long. Had an unfortunate loss on a big one in January when my fish, a couple of circles, couple of lifts away from gaff, made a quick dash into the props. I don’t think hand pressure would have been as effective as a tighter drag. Especially considering I had been palming the spool for about 15 minutes. I didn’t put a scale on the reel after we lost it, so can’t say how tight it was, but I would have to say maybe 35 lbs and that was pushed to full.
Two points Steve... using your fingers on the spool side can be dangerous, especially if the reel has a bridge. And it has nothing to do with ego, but part of fishing like casting your own bait. If you ask to have your drag checked, fine... otherwise it should be the fisherman’s choice.
I use a Pesola 100lbs. scale. It is accurate and has never failed....http://www.scalesgalore.com/product/?product_id=50921 Not cheap at $125
What works for me on drag amounts, I calculate actual breaking strength of the line and adjust accordingly factoring-in hook & fish sizes and last but not least the situation/weather. I put a slight bend in the rod when using a scale. I check them everyday before use.
I prefer relatively heavy drag settings for strike: 80 lbs.- 30; 100 lbs.- 35; 130 lbs.- 40; 150 lbs.- 45; 175 lbs.- 50; 200 lbs.- 55. I can always back-off the drag when needed, but I like to have much more available for the end game. During the battle it is much easier to reduce the drag than add more. Never use more drag than you can handle. Use a drag amount that gets the job dome effectively and makes sense to you.
- Jeff Burroughs
Early on with a stock TLD-20-II, I was adding pressure on the top of the spool and got fingers under the crossbar. That was an ouch lesson. I was only shown the fingers on the side of the spool method on a fish in February out of PV. The reel was not full so the side of the spool was available as a pressure point. Hand on the sideplate and fingers on the flange. Not always going to be an option as when you fish with a full spool and you’re at the end of the fight, you can’t get enough grab on it.
Happened to me too, Steve! Scary and ouch!
- Jeff Burroughs
When the JB snapped it was directly in the middle of my 3' of spectra that was on my top shot.
I've seen this before. What actually happened is the fluoro snapped, exploded if you will, and the force of the fluoro breaking is what caused the 130lb spectra to part as well. The example I saw was 200lb mono inside a double wall of 200lb spectra. The leader material snapping is what caused the spectra to break.
Has nothing to do with ego..I enjoy every aspect of preparing to fish for these big yellowfin.....I know what drag I am comfortable fishing with...I set my own drags and check them every day before fishing then I KNOW what my drag settings are....if I lose a fish because of my drag settings then it is on me...... IMO drag setting is all part of the fishing experience just like choosing which outfit to use, selecting a hook, tying my hooks, selecting a bait, making my connections, setting the hook and fighting the fish.... win or lose every part of the experience is meaningful to me. JMO
I use my the entire length of my fingers not just my finger tips to palm the spool.....
Bought my Manley about 30 years ago, and it still goes with me every trip.
Buy once, cry once.
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