Rust on trim tabs

Parker Boats

Big_Tuna_

Member
Aug 3, 2017
446
304
San Diego
Name
Bigtuna
Boat
Parker 2310
Pulled my 2310 after 3 months in a slip for 100 hr service. The bottom paint held up well, but trim tabs did not. I am thinking I need anodes on the trim tabs? Would that prevent this rust? The rust is by the screws in the back and hinges. The other stuff is growth, also annoying, can I paint the trim tabs? The boat yard did not

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mullet

Metal Fabricator
Jan 10, 2006
4,438
4,336
Brookings Oregon
Name
mike
Boat
19"Gregor
High grade stainless shouldn't rust . See if a magnet will stick to the tabs . If it does they used 400 series not 300 as they should have .
 
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May 13, 2004
480
575
74
Long Beach and points due west
Name
Bob Ballew
Boat
2520 Parker with twin 200 Yamahas
possibly electrolysis...any nearby boats with shore power lines drooping into the water?...more than one boat has had props, tabs and lower units corrode from nearby electrical issues, usually caused by other boat owners ignorance about saltwater conductivity.....definately add some disc zincs on the tabs, put in new screws with sealant and see if it makes a difference on the rust issues..rust bleeding around bolts and screws warns you it is time to do some recaulking....
 

swami 805

I Post A Lot But I Can't Edit This
Mar 9, 2016
3,769
5,100
66
805
Name
Bill
Boat
sunk it
Once the trim tab is off cut a slot in the part sticking out with a dremel and back it out with a slotted screw driver. See if you can get some kind of penetrant in there to loosen it up first, I like a 50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid or get a can of Kroil. Tighten the screw a tiny bit before trying to break it loose
 

Big_Tuna_

Member
Aug 3, 2017
446
304
San Diego
Name
Bigtuna
Boat
Parker 2310
You need to have the bottom cleaned once a month to keep the growth to a minimum. Everything underwater should be painted including the actuators and SS tabs.

I ordered some left hand drill bits from Grainger. Going to try and drill out the broken screw.

So after 4-5 months in the water the only buildup was on the transom! The bottom running surface is clean as a whistle! So I think moving forward I'll jump in the water once a month to clean the transom area.

I hear different things from different people about painting the actual trim tabs....? I'm re-doing the trim tab installation with proper screws and adding zincs. I found that as I pulled the rusty screws out, they were not all the same screws. So someone at some point replaced some of the screws and probably did not do a good job of finding the correct stainless steel.

I definitely need to paint the actuators, transducer, and bottom portion of motor trim. Will get special paint from West Marine for that.
 

The Right Kind

Slave to a Boat
Jul 9, 2003
1,264
1,052
Santa Barbara
1212
Name
Gary
Boat
The Right Kind - 31' Cabo Express
I've never used these but they look like they should work
 
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gecsr1

Plain Jane Rods...Hobby Rod Builder
Jul 15, 2005
14,584
3,846
Poway Ca
Name
Gary
Boat
No Boat Now
If you use the correct 316 stainless screws and drill your trim tabs to mount a zink you do not have to paint them , since I added zincs and have the corrct stainless 316 alloy screws no problems for the last 12 years... I use a 3" circle zinc on each tab only on the top .
zero problems.... and I just sold my Beautiful Boat "Reel Adventuire II"
good luck what ever you do....
 
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sbsurfer

I Should Upgrade My Account
Feb 19, 2010
1,647
799
805
Name
Mark
Boat
29ft Radon - 15ft Hobie Power Skiff
I have zincs on my tabs and painted them with Propspeed....any growth just flakes right off when under way. I can even squirt tabs with hose from above the water and that alone is enough to clean all growth off them. It's worked really well for me.
 

Big_Tuna_

Member
Aug 3, 2017
446
304
San Diego
Name
Bigtuna
Boat
Parker 2310
Thanks for the advice y'all. So Here's what happened. I took the trim tab off, thankfully came off fairly easily but the gel coat did rip off at one spot. I performed a marine tex repair on that spot. Also, to remove the remaining (what I think is 4200) I used anti-bond from west marine. A complete rip-off but it works really well!!!! You can see in one of the pictures the adhesive is pealing off. I sanded off the rest of the 4200 until I had a nice smooth surface. Acetone worked really well to remove remaining adhesive and any bottom paint.

To remove the busted screw I used left hand drill bits I bought from grainger online. Started with a small size and worked my way up until the drill bit caught the screw and unscrewed it. (I did a few practice runs on my screws I drilled into a wood and sawed off the head). The left hand drill bits work amazing!!! I got the smaller size "mechanic length" bits with cobalt. Cuts through stainless steel like butter.

I learned the screws that come with the Lenco kit are actually 304/306 stainless. Not the best stainless, it should really be 316 like Gary said. So I purchased stainless 316 screws and hardware from boltdepot.com. I also added sacrificial zincs I bought from west marine.

If I stay on top of these zincs I hope I do not have any more problems! Attached are some photos of the progress and then the final product.

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