Rebuild begins

Discussion in 'Washington Fishing Reports' started by fishing fanatic, Feb 9, 2017.

  1. fishing fanatic

    fishing fanatic Well-Known "Member"

    Location:
    Alger, WA
    Name:
    jason
    Boat:
    28’ almar sounder //16' lavro
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    Eric, as for the outboard brand.... ford vs chevy vs dodge, I'm sure we all could have stories of bad deals with all brands.
    The word extension I guess maybe is throwing people off or maybe not. I'm taking the proven sounder hull and making it into the exact hull Mike is running with the 27' and a positive floatation outboard bracket. So it will be extending the hull but only for the width of the outboards to create a neautral effect of hanging those motors off the back. As I said it's more than a normal deal done on all of today's aluminums and Anna lot of fiberglass in my opinion.
    The reason I bought the older Almar is the fact that it's built like a tank.
    I appreciate all the input! Keep it coming
     
  2. Omakase

    Omakase Well-Known "Member"

    Location:
    Kitsap
    Name:
    Bob
    Boat:
    24 LaConner
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    Removing topside paint with my process (sandblasting) would leave the aluminum profiled (roughened) which would be great if one were going to repaint but as a final finish it would be very difficult to maintain and keep clean. Chemical removal is the way to go if one wants a smooth surface on bare aluminum. Soda blasting would leave the surface smoother but I hate to shoot that stuff (and honestly I avoid topside work in general). Bottom jobs are us . . . anytime I vary from that I regret it later! My contact email is [email protected] if more info is needed or find me on facebook. Thanks, Bob
     
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  3. Vek

    Vek Newbie

    Location:
    Blaine
    Name:
    Jerry
    Boat:
    28' Almar
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    Regarding the extension, I had mine built about 35" rearward from between the trim tabs, to allow tilt of the giant F350 outboard. I specified that the extension exactly matched the hull lines, and if any error was made that it be made so that the extension angles up slightly rather than down (down would be a "hook"). If it angles down, then it's a giant trim tab and can cause big problems at high speeds (plowing/drag) or following seas (bow steer). Mine ended up with the rear edge of the bracket bottom plate between 1/8 and 1/4" above a straightedge held against the existing hull, and the boat handles completely neutral.

    I have my eye out for an older almar like the subject of this thread, or a touch smaller, with intent to do the same thing but end up with something that has better kid/wife accommodation and a bit better fuel economy. Mine belongs on the coast or in Alaska (where it came from), and we're just not out there that much. I'd build the extension exactly like the one I had made: 1/4" plate throughout, 1/2" x 3" flat bar keel and stringer extensions, 1/2" plate transom with the same 1/2" x 3" flat bar as internal bracing, 1/2" plate gussets tying the upper part of the transom plate (motor mount) to the extension box sides and the internal bracing, and a big dogged/gasketed aluminum hatch on top for rigging. It worked out quite well.
     
  4. Omakase

    Omakase Well-Known "Member"

    Location:
    Kitsap
    Name:
    Bob
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    24 LaConner
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  5. fishing fanatic

    fishing fanatic Well-Known "Member"

    Location:
    Alger, WA
    Name:
    jason
    Boat:
    28’ almar sounder //16' lavro
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    Jerry, you literally described EXACTLY what I'm doing. Thanks for the input and believe me I'm following hull lines identical and 1/8" so not the trim tab effect. What year is your current 28? Does it have the step flat chines hull or they hard chine like mine?
     
  6. Vek

    Vek Newbie

    Location:
    Blaine
    Name:
    Jerry
    Boat:
    28' Almar
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    2001 hull, first year of the big flat chines. Consequence: tab spacing is narrower than on older hulls, therefore bracket width is less unless you install narrower tabs and relocate the actuators. I did neither, and thought that I could get ~42" of bracket width, but it ended up ~38.5" wide.

    Start doing some math with 26" twins centerline plus 12 7/8" bolt spacing on mounts, and realize that I'm a tiny bit too narrow for 26" twins. I'll have to weld some ears outboard of the transom plate to catch one upper mounting bolt per side if I want to install twins, but that's not too big a deal. Easy to add an ear and gusset/stiffener to each side and make it look ok.
     
  7. Gooch Larue

    Gooch Larue Well-Known "Member"

    Name:
    Chris Holmes
    Boat:
    29' North River "Thunder Road"
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    I agree with Mike that the yam 200's would be an outstanding choice. Great balance between power, weight and fuel economy. IMHO I would go that way and put the 10-12k savings into electronics.

    The Zuck 175 or 200 would also be a great choice. More bang for the buck and The ability to swing a large 16" prop, that really helps with heavy loads and tough sea conditions. I have been on Kurts NR with twin 175's and was extremely impressed with how it excelerated out of the hole.
     
  8. Spokaloo

    Spokaloo I've posted enough I should edit this section

    Location:
    Spokane, Wa
    Name:
    Eric
    Boat:
    I build my own
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    I can put my hands upon two boats nearby that had the rear edge of the hull plating above the original transom edge, and both had significant planing issues, as the upturn didn't produce enough lift to counteract the lift ahead of it to 'tip it over' the planing hump. Buttock lines are the technical term for the fore and aft lines that must be kept straight and fair. If done right, it can help a boat, but you must be very accurate when adding hull length, as even small variations can cause major changes in handling. You are within that Jerry, with 1/4" in relation to 27' of hull, but even a half inch can cause some strain planing that could require additional, unnecessary horsepower.

    E
     
  9. fishing fanatic

    fishing fanatic Well-Known "Member"

    Location:
    Alger, WA
    Name:
    jason
    Boat:
    28’ almar sounder //16' lavro
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    Eric I couldn't agree more the the guy who I'm working with is more than experienced and very precision. I've seen and been on 3 other projects just like mine. I do appreciate you explaining the importance though because I TOTALLY agree that 1/2" would be waaaaaaayyyyy to much and would create a fulcrum like affect to overcome. Thanks again as it truely is wise advice
     
  10. fishing fanatic

    fishing fanatic Well-Known "Member"

    Location:
    Alger, WA
    Name:
    jason
    Boat:
    28’ almar sounder //16' lavro
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    After all these responses I'm feeling pretty good about that pair of Suzuki 200s.
     
    Gooch Larue likes this.
  11. TonyG

    TonyG I've posted enough I should edit this section

    Location:
    Snohomish, WA
    Name:
    Tony
    Boat:
    NR Seahawk OS 26'; 20' Alumaweld Super Vee Sled
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    I guess I'm quite ignorant of that era Almar. I'm curious where all that extra weight comes from as compared to my 2014 26' ~5500# dry weight hull.

    Sounds like your boat is a LOT heavier than the latest incarnations of the Almar design.

    Is it all that stuff in the cabin?
     
  12. fishing fanatic

    fishing fanatic Well-Known "Member"

    Location:
    Alger, WA
    Name:
    jason
    Boat:
    28’ almar sounder //16' lavro
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    They put a substantial amount more substructure as well as not really attempting to lessen the weight of materials in the cabin build. Until I put it across the scale im not entirely sure what it will be.
     
  13. fishing fanatic

    fishing fanatic Well-Known "Member"

    Location:
    Alger, WA
    Name:
    jason
    Boat:
    28’ almar sounder //16' lavro
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    How about paint? I'm really torn on the subject. The existing is weathered , old and with all the different work I'm doing it will all have to be removed one way or another. I'd kinda like to keep the White House and cockpit because I always saw that as an Almar look but I see so many aluminum boats that are less than ten years old with MAJOR paint issues? Anyone care to chime in on success or agree that I'm looking for trouble to paint it again?
     
  14. goatram

    goatram Notable Member Gate Keeper to the Great Northwest

    Location:
    Stanwood, WA
    Name:
    grrrrrrrr
    Boat:
    33' RBW MISS ELIZA
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    Pain-t!

    North River use automotive pain-t then sprays Zolotone over that to get that speckled finish. Pain-t is all about prep. Etching primer, epoxy primer, top coat, Zolotone, clear to seal it.

    Sand down any corrosion. Feather it in, clean, and alodine it. Spay your primer.

    Almost all of the manufacturers had people's in the pain-t department in the last 15 years. Make sure all your holes are drilled prior to pain-t g. Use dielectric grease or sealant when you install your components.

    If you sand to remove your pain-t you will need to have some different grades of sandpaper. Going to 600 to 800 grit to get a good smooth finish. Than you can use alumabrite to maintain it with scotch Brite.

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
     
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  15. fishing fanatic

    fishing fanatic Well-Known "Member"

    Location:
    Alger, WA
    Name:
    jason
    Boat:
    28’ almar sounder //16' lavro
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    Here's another question. Anyone ever try the sink/ stove combo with the cutting board style cover? Big joke or great use of space?
     
  16. goatram

    goatram Notable Member Gate Keeper to the Great Northwest

    Location:
    Stanwood, WA
    Name:
    grrrrrrrr
    Boat:
    33' RBW MISS ELIZA
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    Fog Ducker! likes this.
  17. fishing fanatic

    fishing fanatic Well-Known "Member"

    Location:
    Alger, WA
    Name:
    jason
    Boat:
    28’ almar sounder //16' lavro
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    You got a picture and brand by chance ?
     
  18. fishing fanatic

    fishing fanatic Well-Known "Member"

    Location:
    Alger, WA
    Name:
    jason
    Boat:
    28’ almar sounder //16' lavro
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    So the welding starts Monday, what a major pain to get it all ready! New questions;
    Forward facing lights, placement and type? Or none at all? In my experience I've always used the night sky to run but was looking for opinions?
    Rear facing lights? How many and positions as well?
    The rocket launcher spacing thread is helpful and for sure is always opinion based. I'm doing two rows and was looking at 8-9" cl..... any opinions?
    Pics to come soon!
     
  19. hawksfan75

    hawksfan75 More questions than answers

    Location:
    Kent, WA USA
    Name:
    Eric
    Boat:
    Hydra Sports 2200 DC
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    @Genie Aye is your lighting man. He will help you be legal and lit.
     
  20. fishing fanatic

    fishing fanatic Well-Known "Member"

    Location:
    Alger, WA
    Name:
    jason
    Boat:
    28’ almar sounder //16' lavro
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    Just to clarify, I'm talking about work lights, spot lights, navigational lighting not the port, starboard and anchor lighting required and basic
     

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