Pilothouse Layout for 25ft Whaler

sbsurfer

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Great overview!

I would add (from personal experience on my boat) that dash glare on raked back design can be countered (somewhat) with a roof overhang up front. By positioning the top edge of the windows a bit lower, you significantly improve the shade situation. I set up mine like this and the dash glare is managed, and there’s excellent shade in most settings. I also noticed improved sea handling with a down-sloped roof and raked back cab, so that’s a potential plus in favor or raked back.

View attachment 1199938

Two other ways I have found to fix the glare:

1. Paint the dash black
2. Put down black kitchen drawer liner....serves two purposes, cuts out the glare and gives a nice non slip surface for items you put on the dash, like a phone or a bluetooth speaker etc.
 
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URN

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    I have done some simple sketches of the side view of the pilot house I am toying with building. Its similar to the Radon with forward windows. I'm not sure yet on two or three window front. Most likely 3 but we'll see. I'm not the best at solidworks so going from 2d to 3d is going to be challenging. I think I'll use it to get close but when mocking up the temporary mold that's when I'll get a better "feel" for it.

    Fwd Window.PNG
     
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    knot keely

    Looks good. If it were me, I would raise the front cuddy portion up to the bottom of the front windows to eliminate that short steep section which I’ve always thought looks a little awkward. That’s minor though. Nice work. 3 window front is the way to go with the two side windows angled back just a few degrees for improved lateral visibility and aesthetics.
     
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    URN

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    Looks good. If it were me, I would raise the front cuddy portion up to the bottom of the front windows to eliminate that short steep section which I’ve always thought looks a little awkward. That’s minor though. Nice work. 3 window front is the way to go with the two side windows angled back just a few degrees for improved lateral visibility and aesthetics.
    Good idea. Thats less pcs of melamine to cut and fit for the temp mold layup and gives a bit more head room when in the cuddy. One thing I'm trying to wrap my head around is how to prep for the front windows. I do like the rubber molding strip but if there is a more secure way to do it that would be nice to see.
     
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    sbsurfer

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    Diamond Sea Glaze, Marks Plastics, Bounty Marine are all window suppliers used by our local builders for a more secure window than the standard rubber strip sandwich method.
     
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    starbright55

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    1. My guess would be about a 14in minimum to side step up to the bow. That's about what I have between the railing and the side of the pilothouse.

    If you have extra beam to spare, by all means make the gunnels wider. But, unless you have room for 20"-24" inches to spare on each side, you're going to be holding on to the roof rails up top in order to access the bow.

    I only have an 8' beam and went with 8" gunnels. I've never had a problem walking forward (or fallen in). Making the gunnels 6" narrower on each side (compared to 14" gunnels) is an extra foot of cabin space inside. Use that extra foot for a more comfortable dinette, more tackle storage behind the helm seat, etc.
     
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    URN

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    If you have extra beam to spare, by all means make the gunnels wider. But, unless you have room for 20"-24" inches to spare on each side, you're going to be holding on to the roof rails up top in order to access the bow.

    I only have an 8' beam and went with 8" gunnels. I've never had a problem walking forward (or fallen in). Making the gunnels 6" narrower on each side (compared to 14" gunnels) is an extra foot of cabin space inside. Use that extra foot for a more comfortable dinette, more tackle storage behind the helm seat, etc.
    Thanks,
    I am leaning toward a full pilothouse with forward windows instead of a doghouse style. For what we do and where we are in AK we need to overnight on the boat more often than not. Having that front cuddy area for the kids and the bench seat that can convert into a bed is what I'm leaning toward so far.
     
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    starbright55

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    Thanks,
    I am leaning toward a full pilothouse with forward windows instead of a doghouse style. For what we do and where we are in AK we need to overnight on the boat more often than not. Having that front cuddy area for the kids and the bench seat that can convert into a bed is what I'm leaning toward so far.

    Larger hatch up front in the cuddy means you can handle the anchor without walking all the way around and forward.

    I can stay a week on my 25' with the wife and 1 kid. I rarely lower the dinette unless it's a guys trip and we want some space.
     
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    sbsurfer

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    Good idea. Thats less pcs of melamine to cut and fit for the temp mold layup and gives a bit more head room when in the cuddy. One thing I'm trying to wrap my head around is how to prep for the front windows. I do like the rubber molding strip but if there is a more secure way to do it that would be nice to see.
    If you have extra beam to spare, by all means make the gunnels wider. But, unless you have room for 20"-24" inches to spare on each side, you're going to be holding on to the roof rails up top in order to access the bow.

    I only have an 8' beam and went with 8" gunnels. I've never had a problem walking forward (or fallen in). Making the gunnels 6" narrower on each side (compared to 14" gunnels) is an extra foot of cabin space inside. Use that extra foot for a more comfortable dinette, more tackle storage behind the helm seat, etc.

    I agree 100%.

    Unless you have the room to go really wide on the walk around I would stick with about 8 inches and maximize your cabin width. I've had boats with about 7 inches and my current 14 inches doesn't provide any more value than the 8 inch ones I've had. I'd much rather have a wider dinette seat and more room in the house.
     
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    Jason A Maier

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    1. My guess would be about a 14in minimum to side step up to the bow. That's about what I have between the railing and the side of the pilothouse.

    View attachment 1197632

    2. One popular design used around here is the dinette setup that drops don into a bed and v-birth down under the cuddy cabin.

    3. I've had both. With a hinged door it's either open or shut. I've found that we close it while cruising and as soon as I come off plane it usually opens up. With the slider sometimes I would open half way while cruising for more air but less noise than fully open. I have a Diamond Sea Glaze hinged door now and it really seals well and quiets the cabin when shut...also I like how it's all glass and I get good visibility out on to the deck of the boat.

    4. They both have their pluses and minuses. Forward raked gives more roof for storage, more forward upper interior space to mount electronics or engine gauges, also no glare from dash...downside is less field of view. With raked back you have more field of view, better water deflection...downside is less interior upper space for electronics and glare from dash reflection.

    Here's a cool pilothouse setup on a Whaler:

    View attachment 1197631
    Any idea whose both that whaler is? I have a revenge and I want to build a pilothouse just like that for it. Im confused about the design though.. The original designs for the revenge are walk through. This looks like its not a walk around or a walk through.. so I wonder how they access the bow of the boat.
     
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    sbsurfer

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    Any idea whose both that whaler is? I have a revenge and I want to build a pilothouse just like that for it. Im confused about the design though.. The original designs for the revenge are walk through. This looks like its not a walk around or a walk through.. so I wonder how they access the bow of the boat.

    I don't know the owner but looks like they step over the stern rail and walk along the side of the pilothouse to access the bow.
     
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    URN

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    Any idea whose both that whaler is? I have a revenge and I want to build a pilothouse just like that for it. Im confused about the design though.. The original designs for the revenge are walk through. This looks like its not a walk around or a walk through.. so I wonder how they access the bow of the boat.
    I think if you look close enough there might be a hatch on the front bow. Hard to tell though.

    I was able to build the pilothouse for my whaler that is wider and extended back some compared to the Frontier. A lot more room in the cabin. The seating arrangement is the hardest part to figure out I think. I built this pilothouse as an insert so that it could potentially be removed if I decided to do a re-design. Seating and railing are what I am working on now. There's a bench seat on the port side that's about 50" long and the bench seat on the starboard side is about 34" long. That allows me to stand or sit at the helm. Storage inside the bench seats with a cushion on the lid. That's the basic idea. Its not perfect but shop time and availability was limited so I had to do the best I could. This build took about 3 months of about 2 nights a week working from ~8:00pm till ~1-2:00 AM plus a few hours on Saturdays and Sundays. Expect whatever build you do to be a lot of work. Budget about 2X the cost you originally expect.

    IMG_1463.JPG


    IMG_1460.JPG
     
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    Jason A Maier

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    I think if you look close enough there might be a hatch on the front bow. Hard to tell though.

    I was able to build the pilothouse for my whaler that is wider and extended back some compared to the Frontier. A lot more room in the cabin. The seating arrangement is the hardest part to figure out I think. I built this pilothouse as an insert so that it could potentially be removed if I decided to do a re-design. Seating and railing are what I am working on now. There's a bench seat on the port side that's about 50" long and the bench seat on the starboard side is about 34" long. That allows me to stand or sit at the helm. Storage inside the bench seats with a cushion on the lid. That's the basic idea. Its not perfect but shop time and availability was limited so I had to do the best I could. This build took about 3 months of about 2 nights a week working from ~8:00pm till ~1-2:00 AM plus a few hours on Saturdays and Sundays. Expect whatever build you do to be a lot of work. Budget about 2X the cost you originally expect.

    View attachment 1275123

    View attachment 1275124
    Looks good! This isnt a revenge hull is it?
     
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    Jason A Maier

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    I don't know the owner but looks like they step over the stern rail and walk along the side of the pilothouse to access the bow.
    Possible.. seems like it is a really thin "gunnel" with maybe a step in the middle? We are trying to decide if we want to do a walk around and pull the PH in 6" or just make a hatch or door
     
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    URN

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    Looks good! This isnt a revenge hull is it?
    I believe it is the basic hull that Brunswick then made into all sorts of government models, like the frontier, challenger, sentry, etc. The revenge is the same hull as far as the lower hull bonded to the upper hull. That part stays the same. Then different inserts are installed to make them into their respective models. That's how I understood it so if someone knows the proper history then I defer.
     
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    Jason A Maier

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    I believe it is the basic hull that Brunswick then made into all sorts of government models, like the frontier, challenger, sentry, etc. The revenge is the same hull as far as the lower hull bonded to the upper hull. That part stays the same. Then different inserts are installed to make them into their respective models. That's how I understood it so if someone knows the proper history then I defer.
    This makes sense. Do you have an idea of how terrible it would be for the hull's integrity to "cut out" some of the top layer of the upper hull. For example, in adding a PH i have been contemplating cutting out the current revenge dash entirely...
     
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    URN

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    This makes sense. Do you have an idea of how terrible it would be for the hull's integrity to "cut out" some of the top layer of the upper hull. For example, in adding a PH i have been contemplating cutting out the current revenge dash entirely...
    Post up some pictures if you can.
     
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