penn squidder 140/145/146 rebuild

alantani

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Jul 24, 2005
1,990
1,295
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Saratoga, CA
Name
alan tani
Boat
grady white tournament 19, grady white journey 258
here's another old standard from penn. the squidders continue to remain popular among long distance surf casters. they also performs well for many inshore light tackle applications. a single screw also allows you to remove the side plate and easily clean the reel or change spools.

squidder_001.jpg


first, go to pennparts.com for the schematics and parts lists. for this particular rebuild post, i will be working off the 145 schematic.

140L - PENN 140L Parts List

140L-LH - PENN 140L-LH Parts List

145 - PENN 145 Parts List

146 - PENN 146L Parts List

what we're going to do with this reel is to hotrod it a little, with a jigmaster power handle (#24-56), a narrow frame and spool conversion kit KIT140-146CK Conversion Kit 140 to 146 - Limit One, a new set of three #6-60 drag washers inside the main gear, a new #6-113 drag washer under the main gear, and a stainless steel gear sleeve that was made up custom for me. please note that this is not the same #98-60AT or #98-505AT stainless steel gear sleeve carried by pennparts.com. this was a limited run made by pete kolekar at my request. there are only a few left.

squidder_002.jpg


one of the nice features of this reel and the jigmaster is the take apart thumb screw (key #40). turn the screw counterclockwise, lift this spring-loaded screw a little, then turn the entire left side plate counterclockwise and remove the right side plate assembly.

squidder_003.jpg


we're now down to three pieces, the frame assembly, spool and right side plate assembly.

squidder_004.jpg


we'll start by removing the left side plate screws (key #'s 32 and 39).

squidder_005.jpg


note that the post screws (key #39) are longer than the stand screws (key #32).

squidder_006.jpg


grease the screw holes of the new frame posts (key #37) and new stand (key #30) and install them.

squidder_007.jpg


remove the left side bearing (key #40).

squidder_009.jpg


pull out the bearing shield (no key #).

squidder_010.jpg


the old bearing is toast.

squidder_011.jpg


a new bearing is a 0.125 x 0.5 x 0.172 in stainless steel. it's going in degreased, lubed with corrosion x and left open.

squidder_012.jpg


grab that ratty old toothbrush and brush on a light coat of grease.

squidder_013.jpg


a little on the spool (key #29L) as well.

squidder_014.jpg


there. much nicer!

squidder_015.jpg


remove the right post (key #38) and stand (key #31) screws. note that they are also of different lengths.

squidder_016.jpg


grease the screw holes and re-install the right side ring (key #2).

squidder_017.jpg


throw the spool in and set them both aside.

squidder_018.jpg


now for the right side plate assembly. remove the handle lock screw (key #23a).

squidder_019.jpg


remove the handle screw (key #23).

squidder_020.jpg


squidder_021.jpg


remove the handle (key #24) and note the damage to the top of the soft brass gear sleeve (key #98).

squidder_022.jpg


remove the star (key #10).

squidder_023.jpg


remove the spacing sleeve (key #9).

squidder_024.jpg


back out the four bridge screws (key #'s 16 and 17).

squidder_025.jpg


the bridge assembly will drop straight out. note that the dog and dog spring came with it.

squidder_026.jpg


this dog is a little different from the others. it has a hole drilled into it and the spring rests inside making the installion much easier.

squidder_027.jpg


here's the bridge (key #3) with the main gear (key #5), drag washers (key #'s 4, 6 and 7) and tension spring.

squidder_028.jpg


squidder_029.jpg


to remove the brass gear sleeve (key #98), push (or punch) out the retaining pin.

squidder_030.jpg


squidder_031.jpg


install the new stainless steel gear sleeve and the retaining pin. sometimes the pin sticks out a little. just file it flat and the main gear should be able to slide over with no trouble.

squidder_032.jpg


the first washer that goes under the main gear is a #6-113. a generous coat of cal's drag grease works well here.

squidder_034.jpg


rebuild the gear stack with a generous coat of drag grease on all of the drag washers. don't worry about the excess. it will simply squeeze out the sides. note that we will also be discarding the tension spring (key #8). the extra thickness of the #6-113 drag washer underneath the main gear means that there is no room for the tension spring.

squidder_035.jpg


now for the right side plate bearing.

squidder_036.jpg


our handy dandy bearing pulling tool will remove the bearing cover.

squidder_037.jpg


it will also remove the bearing (key #26).

squidder_038.jpg


this bearing was rusted as well. this new bearing is also a 0.125 x 0.5 x 0.172.

squidder_039.jpg


let's line everything up.

squidder_040.jpg


first, install the bridge screws (key #'s 16 and 17). note that the screws that are threaded just at the tip go on top.

squidder_041.jpg


your left index and middle finger cover the bridge screws. the right side plate (key #1) is held between your left thumb and ring finger.

squidder_042.jpg


now you can flip the side plate over with no risk of having the screws fall out.

squidder_043.jpg


install the clutch springs (key #18).

squidder_044.jpg


install the pinion yoke (key #12) and pinion gear (key #13) as a unit.

squidder_045.jpg


install the eccentric jack (key #11).

squidder_046.jpg


install the bridge/main gear assembly, turned 90 degrees counterclockwise from it's final position.

squidder_047.jpg


install the dog (key #15) and dog spring (key #14) as a unit. lay it down over the bridge screw and note that the dog spring sticks out too far.

squidder_048.jpg


press down on the bridge assembly with your left thumb. use the blade of a small flat screwdriver to push the dog spring down into it's final position.

squidder_049.jpg


squidder_050.jpg


rotate the bridge assembly 90 degrees clockwise and push it down into it's final position.

squidder_051.jpg


with a right hand assist, flip the right side plate assembly over.

squidder_052.jpg


start each bridge screw half way, then cinch down each screw until they are snug.

squidder_053.jpg


verify that the freespool lever (key #21) works properly.

squidder_054.jpg


verify that the secondary freespool lever (key #21C) functions properly. this lever allow the handle to turn backwards by disengaging the dog.

squidder_055.jpg


install the spacing sleeve (key #9).

squidder_056.jpg


install the star (key #10).

squidder_057.jpg


install the upgraded handle (key #24). add a light coat of grease.

squidder_058.jpg


install the handle screw (key #23).

squidder_059.jpg


install the handle lock screw (key #23A).

squidder_060.jpg


press the right side plate assembly down into the right side ring (key #2) until it seats, turn the right side plate assembly clockwise until the take apart thumb screw (key #41) lines up with the threaded screw hole, and turn the thumb screw down until it seats.

squidder_061.jpg


congratulations! you're done!

squidder_062.jpg


now, for a couple of comments. honestly, there is no way that this upgrade was anywhere near worth the time and expense that was required. but this was never about money, was it. i know one thing for sure. the new owner was a very proud and happy man. personally, i much prefer the balance that the narrowed frame offers. i like my reels "boxed out," having a spool that is as wide as it is tall. with greased carbon fiber drag washers, this reel will deliver a maximum of 12-15 pounds of drag at the top of the spool. the stock brass gear sleeve will start to round off at drag settings in excess of 8 pounds. the stainless steel gear sleeve will easily hold up under 15 pounds of drag. that means that this stainless steel gear sleeve is a worthwhile upgrade ONLY if you are going to fish a 10 pound drag setting with, say, straight 30# mono. that works out well, because the gap between the spool and side plate rings can be so large that the reel will eat 25 pound mono or less. it will also obviously eat spectra. this is an important point. this is not a spectra ready, or spectra worthy, reel.

maintenance of this reel is very simple. the screw holes and drag washers will be good forever. it would be a simple matter to strip off all the line, take the reel apart, flush it out with a full blast of water from a hose, blow out the bearings with compressed air, lube the bearings with more corrosion x, reassemble the reel, spool it up with more 30# mono, reset the drag and set it aside for the next fishing trip. if the bearings foul, you now know how to replace them. other than a fresh water rinse and blow dry, only the bearings are at risk for failure. if you are distance casting, you know that bearing maintenance is critical.
 
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ripped

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  • Dec 5, 2007
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    Santa Cruz
    Name
    Gary
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    Vagabond
    Very nice tutorial! Can you tell me where I can get a stainless steel gear sleeve for the squidder?
     
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    alantani

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    Jul 24, 2005
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    Saratoga, CA
    Name
    alan tani
    Boat
    grady white tournament 19, grady white journey 258
    i only have a few squidder gear sleeves left. send a pm if interested.

    bearing shields are actually part of the bearings themselves. what you saw me pull out was a cover for the bearing cup. you can buy bearings in the cup at pennparts.com. is that what you were asking? alan
     
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    rrhanano

    Newbie
    Sep 7, 2006
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    Costa Mesa, CA
    Name
    Russell
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    N/A
    Alan,

    Thank you for the information. I will do what you have suggested and get back to you. I usually do use more that 5 pounds of drag, but new sleeves and greasing the drags will probably suffice. If not, I will be getting back to you about a couple of new sleeves. Thanks again! Russell
     
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    vdub

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    Jan 17, 2007
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    1
    San Jose/La Jolla
    Name
    Vincent
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    Rainbow Sandals, Volcom Board Shorts
    I was wondering if i could just leave my drag washers dry ,or do i have to grease them?

    very debatable topic, has been discussed for a long time. almost has come down to personal preference according to some folks. I just do what alan says hahah. but many do leave them dry
     
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    Lex

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    Mar 7, 2009
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    Los Angeles, CA, USA
    Name
    Alexi
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    None
    i know those ht-100 drags are not supposed to be greased but i think of it this way: when you have 2 pieces of metal, plastic, steel, whatever, and they rub against eachother, then need grease. i HAVE destroyed ht-100's before and they were NOT greased. landbased shark fishing out of malibu with a penn 4/0 and got slammed by a big shark. took one big run on my drags and that was it. toast. so ever since i have greased them up with cals grease and have had no problems at all.

    plus, if Alan Tani says its ok to do it, then it must be ok.:D
     
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    sculpin1

    Newbie
    Aug 28, 2011
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    Corona, CA
    Name
    Mike Godward
    Boat
    None
    Hi Alan,

    Congrats on a very detailed and informative rebuild thread. I'm sure most of us learned a lot and can now muttle through a refurbishing of one of these reels. Keep up the good work!

    Regards,
    Mike
     
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