Outboard motor drops slowly while trimmed up

AWilliams

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May 18, 2009
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I have a 2000 Skeeter bass boat with a 2000 Yamaha 80 4 stroke. My tilt and trim works perfect but will -s-l-o-w-l-y drop when trimmed up. I don't see any leaking on the unit or the ground. How bad is it to just leave it or should it be fixed immediately? Anyone here have a recommendation on a shop/mobile guy to fix it that won't rape me? Located in San Diego. Thanks
 

stuman

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Sep 18, 2004
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I have a 2000 Skeeter bass boat with a 2000 Yamaha 80 4 stroke. My tilt and trim works perfect but will -s-l-o-w-l-y drop when trimmed up. I don't see any leaking on the unit or the ground. How bad is it to just leave it or should it be fixed immediately? Anyone here have a recommendation on a shop/mobile guy to fix it that won't rape me? Located in San Diego. Thanks
Assuming the actuator is properly serviced. Try wiping and then lubricating the chrome part of the piston with trim and tilt fluid. Then cycle the motor up and down. The seal in the actuator may be causing friction.
 
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mullet

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  • Jan 10, 2006
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    There should be a plug with a slot on the motor brkt to release the trim for manual lifting of the motor . If the plug has loosened this is the cause for motor trimming down . You need to tighten the plug . On my honda the plug is on the starboard side .
     
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    stuman

    Brawndo the thirst mutilator
    Sep 18, 2004
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    Ok cool thanks. Forgive my ignorance but is tilt and trim fluid just ATF?
    My bad, I misread your post. I thought it was slow to lower. I now see that it is leaking down slowly. Mullet is on the right path.

     
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    SeaHawk IV

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    Jan 15, 2008
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    I would suggest to inspect the tilt trim reservoir cap for reliability. Then check the fluid level with trailer on flat ground. If fluid is low, add the same fluid you have in the system. I wouldn't add ATF unless you know it currently has ATF. It's possible you might have air in the system and need to bleed the unit.

    If fluid level and cap looks good then I would check the manual release screw. Open and close it a few times.

    Could also be the trim cap cylinder caps. The wipers may have slight damage. Need to remove the trim caps and seals to inspect the pistons.
     
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    SD2600

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    Power steering fluid is the same as atf…some have dye which makes em red…. No need to spend $$$ on sepcific brand
     
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    dwaynesda

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    Apr 27, 2003
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    There are check valve balls in the mechanism. I am guessing they are not seating properly due to saltwater corrosion on the ball or gunk not allowing it to seat properly.

    The cheapest attempt to fix is to flush and fill. Try draining and flushing with something like Marvel Mystery Oil. Cycle it up and down many times, let it sit overnight and continue with the flushing and sitting for a few days, hopefully being cleaned as it sits. Drain and refill with ATF and add a little ATF seal restorer. If that doesn't work, then the unit will have to be replaced (mucho $$) or just live with it.

    Good luck!
     
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    sdapguy

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    Sep 25, 2020
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    Mullet and Dwaysenda are on a good path. My 70 was having issues a few years ago and no one in SD wanted to work on it. Even dragged it down to a hungry mechanic with all parts in kits. He called the next week and said "come get it, there's too many parts." I ended up shipping to a place in FL and they took good care of it. They even have spare parts, should corrosion have destroyed certain channels, to save $ from brand new parts. The ball bearing piece was some of the issue, old seals were also an issue. No issues since.
    Before the vid was too big of a thing, I started replacing the hoses on the powerhead. It took 2 to 3 months to get parts and a year to get one of the small oil lines. I guess everyone else thought it was a good time to fix up their motors too.
     
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    AWilliams

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    May 18, 2009
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    Ok, dumb question...is the slotted screw under the fill bolt the drain?

    IMG_20230327_090241395.jpg
     
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    sdapguy

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    #45 is the bolt in the middle, below motor and is the reservoir plug. #71 on the port side is the manual release held in by a c-clip.
    Hate to say it, but schematic doesn't show what that one actually is. As schematic is from other side and doesn't show anything going in that area, other than #45 and #46 the o-ring. Unless you can see something I'm missing. Bracket 1 diagram shows the ground wire, bolt and washer, but nothing else and is unfortunately a front view too. Unless they changed the valving around and not show not on the schematic. With all those springs and o-rings in there, what could possibly go wrong???🧐😏😢
     
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