Discussion in 'Washington Fishing Reports' started by FishBoy82, Feb 1, 2016.
Still looking for a glass guy...
Did you try Wiggins in sultan?
Tried calling him for 2 weeks, got ahold of him once and he couldn't tell me when we could meet. I live too far away to just takes random trips out there.
Bj fiberglass in bham is also good but more expensive
Reach out to whoever did that Bertram that Far Corners is using as a charter boat...
Small update, keyhole is filled, transom is ready to be glassed in.
Got 3 layers down on the transom tonight. Should finish glassing transom tomorrow, then on to the stringers and fish boxes.
Be careful when you adhere the bracket to the transom. Had bay welding in garibaldi oregon build and install one on my glasply and the sealant they used did not adhere to the bottom paint. This leaked and caused extensive damage to the transom and bracket. Have the bracket off now and redoing the whole thing. Going to have it powder coated this go around. Glad I pulled it this year. Would have either fell off or filled with water and sunk the boat.
Was the bracket bolted through the transom? Do you still have the hole through the transom for the stern drive?
Josh I have 90 deg motors and drill bits if needed. You might need to machine drill guides to find center.
But you got that covered like a boss
The bracket was bolted through the transom but the salt build up between the bracket and transom corroded the aluminum. When the bracket was mounted they did not remove the bottom paint where the sealant was applied. I don't think there is any caulking on the market that will stick to bottom paint. Also mill finish aluminum needs to be cleaned properly before the sealant is applied. Some sealants require a primer on the mill finish before it is applied. Once the water found away in the salt started deposits that led to corrosion that spread and damaged more of the sealant. I will post a few pics when I figure out how too. I really am not happy with the way the bracket was made or installed. Also not having a way to check the flotation bracket for water when under way. Always worried the the inspection hatch would leak and fill the bracket with water.
Thanks John, I will probably need the 90* drill, the rest I got covered. Ill let you know when Im ready for that.
Ahh, that makes more sense. Do you have a bilge pump inside the bracket?
The other issue might be that the bottom paint is not compatible with aluminum.... if it is the typical bottom paint it has high copper content and would cause corrosion on the bracket..
Clorox boats can use Copper Bottom Paint WHICH CAN NOT BE USED ON ALLOY/Aluminum Boats. It WILL Cause Corrosion. He Screwed you if that was done by him. Mill Scale or the shinny film from the factory does need to be cleaned by either Sanding and chemical solution (AKA Acetone) or Acid washing it with a scotch brite pad to remove the film of oil. Aluminum will self heal if allowed Oxygen. Remove the Oxygen, Allow contact with Copper Paint and orr using Silicone Sealant instead of a polysulfide sealant like 4000, 5200 by 3M or Sikaflex seal will cause corrosion.
Me I would Acid wash the Aluminum, Use Alodine, then use a Self etching Primer, and then a top coat of epoxy paint before i sealed the the Bracket on the boat.
I have my off shore bracket sealed from the main boat. It has its own 1000 gph Bilge pump on a float switch. My Boat has 4 chambers below deck each has its own pump. The Area that has my thru hulls, Transducers, Bait Tank Plumping and Fish box has two pumps a 1500 and a 2000 gph pumps on float sw. the Second Pump is set 6" higher than the first with a Flashing Light and a LOUD ASS Horn to catch my Undivided attention. "HEY WE GOT'S PROBLEMS HERE BITCH" LOUD Horn/Siren. I also have Screw Down Welded in hatch Plates for inspection. Fraser Foundry has them. Cut your hole and welder-er up. A 3/8" rubber O ring seal is used to keep the water out. Big Hatch was about $225 and half that for the smaller Round Panel. Fraser Foundery will be at the Seattle Work Boat Show Next weekend Sunday thru Tuesday see this: http://www.pacificmarineexpo.com/
More updated pics, fiberglass should be done by the end of the month.
Got the boy drilling rivets for a new rub rail install, outside stringers are glassed in, inside stringers are next.
Too late for the first two, but I would consider using pressure treated 2X for those stringers. Probably won’t rot out in your own shop regardless, I just like things that are very resistant to rot regardless.
I would not use pressure treated wood in a boat, and I’ve never see it used by any wooden boat builders. You want clear, kiln dried if possible lumber and encapsulate it in glass so water can never get to it. Stringers rot because factory builders didn’t take the time to prevent water intrusion. The stringers are often poorly glassed, decks screwed or worse nailed down with no bonding material to seal around holes, stuff like that - time was money, get the production out the door, you’d be shocked at what I’ve found tearing apart old boats. Take your time, do it right and it will outlast you.
If you want rot proof stringers, build them from coosa board or a composite of some sort, never use pressure treated lumber.
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