Olympic Outboard Conversion

Discussion in 'Washington Fishing Reports' started by FishBoy82, Feb 1, 2016.

  1. FishBoy82

    FishBoy82 Fish Killer

    Location:
    Camano Island, Wa
    Name:
    Josh
    Boat:
    23' Olympic
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    Still looking for a glass guy...
     
  2. robodad

    robodad BullShitoligest

    Location:
    Port Angeles
    Name:
    Allen
    Boat:
    26' Olympic XLF
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  3. fishing fanatic

    fishing fanatic Well-Known "Member"

    Location:
    Alger, WA
    Name:
    jason
    Boat:
    28’ almar sounder //16' lavro
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    Did you try Wiggins in sultan?
     
  4. FishBoy82

    FishBoy82 Fish Killer

    Location:
    Camano Island, Wa
    Name:
    Josh
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    23' Olympic
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    Tried calling him for 2 weeks, got ahold of him once and he couldn't tell me when we could meet. I live too far away to just takes random trips out there.
     
  5. fishing fanatic

    fishing fanatic Well-Known "Member"

    Location:
    Alger, WA
    Name:
    jason
    Boat:
    28’ almar sounder //16' lavro
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    Bj fiberglass in bham is also good but more expensive
     
  6. hawksfan75

    hawksfan75 More questions than answers

    Location:
    Kent, WA USA
    Name:
    Eric
    Boat:
    Hydra Sports 2200 DC
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    Reach out to whoever did that Bertram that Far Corners is using as a charter boat...
     
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  7. FishBoy82

    FishBoy82 Fish Killer

    Location:
    Camano Island, Wa
    Name:
    Josh
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    23' Olympic
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    1. IMG_20181029_191452.jpg IMG_20181029_191519.jpg
    Small update, keyhole is filled, transom is ready to be glassed in.
     
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  8. FishBoy82

    FishBoy82 Fish Killer

    Location:
    Camano Island, Wa
    Name:
    Josh
    Boat:
    23' Olympic
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    Got 3 layers down on the transom tonight. Should finish glassing transom tomorrow, then on to the stringers and fish boxes. IMG_20181106_185401.jpg
     
    Salmon King, goatram and xtshawytscha like this.
  9. Scootinthunder

    Scootinthunder Newbie

    Location:
    Federalway wa USA
    Name:
    John
    Boat:
    Big dog
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    Be careful when you adhere the bracket to the transom. Had bay welding in garibaldi oregon build and install one on my glasply and the sealant they used did not adhere to the bottom paint. This leaked and caused extensive damage to the transom and bracket. Have the bracket off now and redoing the whole thing. Going to have it powder coated this go around. Glad I pulled it this year. Would have either fell off or filled with water and sunk the boat.
     
  10. FishBoy82

    FishBoy82 Fish Killer

    Location:
    Camano Island, Wa
    Name:
    Josh
    Boat:
    23' Olympic
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    Was the bracket bolted through the transom? Do you still have the hole through the transom for the stern drive?

     
  11. goatram

    goatram Notable Member Gate Keeper to the Great Northwest

    Location:
    Stanwood, WA
    Name:
    grrrrrrrr
    Boat:
    33' RBW MISS ELIZA
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    Josh I have 90 deg motors and drill bits if needed. You might need to machine drill guides to find center.

    But you got that covered like a boss
     
  12. Scootinthunder

    Scootinthunder Newbie

    Location:
    Federalway wa USA
    Name:
    John
    Boat:
    Big dog
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    The bracket was bolted through the transom but the salt build up between the bracket and transom corroded the aluminum. When the bracket was mounted they did not remove the bottom paint where the sealant was applied. I don't think there is any caulking on the market that will stick to bottom paint. Also mill finish aluminum needs to be cleaned properly before the sealant is applied. Some sealants require a primer on the mill finish before it is applied. Once the water found away in the salt started deposits that led to corrosion that spread and damaged more of the sealant. I will post a few pics when I figure out how too. I really am not happy with the way the bracket was made or installed. Also not having a way to check the flotation bracket for water when under way. Always worried the the inspection hatch would leak and fill the bracket with water.
     
  13. FishBoy82

    FishBoy82 Fish Killer

    Location:
    Camano Island, Wa
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    Josh
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    Thanks John, I will probably need the 90* drill, the rest I got covered. Ill let you know when Im ready for that.

     
  14. FishBoy82

    FishBoy82 Fish Killer

    Location:
    Camano Island, Wa
    Name:
    Josh
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    23' Olympic
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    Ahh, that makes more sense. Do you have a bilge pump inside the bracket?

     
  15. G-Spot

    G-Spot Captain

    Location:
    Salem/OR/USA
    Name:
    John
    Boat:
    53’ Hatteras STEEL N TIME
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    The other issue might be that the bottom paint is not compatible with aluminum.... if it is the typical bottom paint it has high copper content and would cause corrosion on the bracket..
     
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  16. goatram

    goatram Notable Member Gate Keeper to the Great Northwest

    Location:
    Stanwood, WA
    Name:
    grrrrrrrr
    Boat:
    33' RBW MISS ELIZA
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    John
    Clorox boats can use Copper Bottom Paint WHICH CAN NOT BE USED ON ALLOY/Aluminum Boats. It WILL Cause Corrosion. He Screwed you if that was done by him. Mill Scale or the shinny film from the factory does need to be cleaned by either Sanding and chemical solution (AKA Acetone) or Acid washing it with a scotch brite pad to remove the film of oil. Aluminum will self heal if allowed Oxygen. Remove the Oxygen, Allow contact with Copper Paint and orr using Silicone Sealant instead of a polysulfide sealant like 4000, 5200 by 3M or Sikaflex seal will cause corrosion.


    Me I would Acid wash the Aluminum, Use Alodine, then use a Self etching Primer, and then a top coat of epoxy paint before i sealed the the Bracket on the boat.

    I have my off shore bracket sealed from the main boat. It has its own 1000 gph Bilge pump on a float switch. My Boat has 4 chambers below deck each has its own pump. The Area that has my thru hulls, Transducers, Bait Tank Plumping and Fish box has two pumps a 1500 and a 2000 gph pumps on float sw. the Second Pump is set 6" higher than the first with a Flashing Light and a LOUD ASS Horn to catch my Undivided attention. "HEY WE GOT'S PROBLEMS HERE BITCH" LOUD Horn/Siren. I also have Screw Down Welded in hatch Plates for inspection. Fraser Foundry has them. Cut your hole and welder-er up. A 3/8" rubber O ring seal is used to keep the water out. Big Hatch was about $225 and half that for the smaller Round Panel. Fraser Foundery will be at the Seattle Work Boat Show Next weekend Sunday thru Tuesday see this: http://www.pacificmarineexpo.com/

    Inspection-Hatch-Rectangular-300x201.jpg

    Inspection-Hatch-Round-300x201.jpg
     
  17. FishBoy82

    FishBoy82 Fish Killer

    Location:
    Camano Island, Wa
    Name:
    Josh
    Boat:
    23' Olympic
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    More updated pics, fiberglass should be done by the end of the month.

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  18. FishBoy82

    FishBoy82 Fish Killer

    Location:
    Camano Island, Wa
    Name:
    Josh
    Boat:
    23' Olympic
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    Got the boy drilling rivets for a new rub rail install, outside stringers are glassed in, inside stringers are next.


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  19. G-Spot

    G-Spot Captain

    Location:
    Salem/OR/USA
    Name:
    John
    Boat:
    53’ Hatteras STEEL N TIME
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    Too late for the first two, but I would consider using pressure treated 2X for those stringers. Probably won’t rot out in your own shop regardless, I just like things that are very resistant to rot regardless.
     
  20. Ugly Bayliner

    Ugly Bayliner I've posted enough I should edit this section

    Location:
    Olympia, Wa USA
    Name:
    Steve Ericsson
    Boat:
    20' Ugly Bayliner
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    I would not use pressure treated wood in a boat, and I’ve never see it used by any wooden boat builders. You want clear, kiln dried if possible lumber and encapsulate it in glass so water can never get to it. Stringers rot because factory builders didn’t take the time to prevent water intrusion. The stringers are often poorly glassed, decks screwed or worse nailed down with no bonding material to seal around holes, stuff like that - time was money, get the production out the door, you’d be shocked at what I’ve found tearing apart old boats. Take your time, do it right and it will outlast you.

    If you want rot proof stringers, build them from coosa board or a composite of some sort, never use pressure treated lumber.
     
    TonyG, “biteme”, goatram and 2 others like this.

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