newell rebuild

alantani

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Jul 24, 2005
1,954
949
64
Saratoga, CA
Name
alan tani
Boat
grady white tournament 19, grady white journey 258
mr. carl newell is 82 years old. some consider him to be one of the greatest fishing reel innovators to ever walk this earth. his re-design of the penn squidder and jigmaster 40 years ago has been "adapted" to some degree by nearly every single reel manufacturer. i see the influence of mr. newell in many of the reels i work on, including....
shimano....

penn....

progear....

daiwa....

and ambassaduer.

i think the newell reel is brilliantly designed. new out of the box, they are the easiest reels in the world to work on. older newells can be a nightmare. getting the frame screws undone in a badly corroded reel can sometimes take hours. handle grips seize up with a fair amount of regularity. bearing failures are well known. and then there are the drag washers. i remember a deck hand on one of my first long range trips talking about getting "newelled." we're going to try to fix that.
these were shipped to me from a far corner of the kingdom. i knew who they were from when they arrived. it must have taken me 2 weeks to work up the courage to even open up the box.

first, you'll need to dig up the schematics that either came with the reel, or actually call the newell company at (818) 240-9652. i have not been able to find newell schematics anywhere on the internet. and if you need newell parts, you have to call norma and given her the list of parts that you need. she will total up the charges. then you mail in a check. when they receive your check, they will mail out your parts. they don't have a website and they don't take credit cards, so plan ahead.
let's start with the left side plate. back out the side plate screws, pull off the left side plate, remove the spool, lube the bearing with corrosion x, and grease the screw holes.

if the hidden left side plate screws are not seized up, back them out one at a time and shoot a bead of grease in them as well. then let's put everything back together.

now for the right side plate. remove the handle nut (key #3-22), the nylon lock washer (key #3-23), the c-clip or screw (key #3-21), the handle assembly (key #2-17), the handle washer (key #3-16), the thin belleville (key #3-142), the star (key #3-15), and the drag lock washer (key #3-18).

now pull the right side plate.

back out the four bridge screws (key #fi-640 and fi-662).

lift the side plate straight up and set it aside. here's the unitized bridge assembly. unlike the penn senators, nothing goes "boing."

pull the drag stack apart and line everything up.

clean off the "stuck" drag material off the gears.

clean up the metal washers.

lube the gear sleeve with corrosion x.

the washer that i put under the gear is a #6-113, gooped up with shimano drag grease. it's the thicker version of the #6-60 found in the old black side plate penn 113.

the remaining drag washer are the penn ht-100 #6-309. this the same drag washer found in the penn jigmaster. note that this stack of washers will typically deliver a maximum of 15 pound of drag.

lube the bearing inside the right side plate and drop it on top of the bridge assembly. zip in the four bridge screws.

grease all the side plate screw holes, install the spool, install the right side plate, and zip in the right side plate screws.

remove the binder head screw (key #bi-832-2) from the handle, lube the spindle and screw hole with corrosion x, and reassemble the handle.

reinstall the star and handle. if you find that the star does not "back off" enough, try removing the thin belleville (key #3-142). this is sometimes an issue because the #6-113 drag washer that i use under the gear is thicker than the stock fiber washer.

don't forget the screw or the c-clip. and for those so inclined, there is an aftermarket handle available.

there are many that love these reels and are meticulous in their care. there are others that had these reels seize up, lose a fish as a result, and toss the reel on a a junk heap in the garage, never to be seen again. properly lubed and greased, this reel can provide years of reliable service. and remember that casting distance is inversely proportional to total spool mass. the graphite newell spool has less total mass and a similar sized aluminum spool. all other things being equal, the newell will cast farther.
 

sdfishkiller

Cod Smuggler
Mar 13, 2005
5,060
523
Point Loma
Name
Todd Victor Mora
Boat
19' Whaler: EL SUPER LIZARDFISH
LONG LIVE CARL NEWELL:appl: :High_Five :notworthy
 

poncherello

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Jan 11, 2005
1,737
1,889
san Diego
Name
Jerry
Boat
none
Great tutorial as usual. I have a question. I notice you use the shimano grease for the drags. How about the cals grease? What's the difference and whats your take? Again, thanks for the info!
 

alantani

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Jul 24, 2005
1,954
949
64
Saratoga, CA
Name
alan tani
Boat
grady white tournament 19, grady white journey 258
i bought four big tubs of shimano grease. when i run out, i'm going to look at cal's grease. personally, i consider cal's product to be as good or better. but the shimano stuff works fine for now.
 

alantani

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Jul 24, 2005
1,954
949
64
Saratoga, CA
Name
alan tani
Boat
grady white tournament 19, grady white journey 258
the drags should last for many seasons. the bearings will not, but the drags will. you should have them back by now. let me know how they work out. it amazed me that every single one had seized up. even the new ones were sticky. the only tricky part was getting the drag range just right.
 

Baja Dreamer

Push the button Max!
Jul 2, 2004
1,748
5
61
Bakersfield,Ca.
Name
Chris
Boat
None
alantani said:
the drags should last for many seasons. the bearings will not, but the drags will. you should have them back by now. let me know how they work out. it amazed me that every single one had seized up. even the new ones were sticky. the only tricky part was getting the drag range just right.

Aaahhhhh, Newwweelllllllllsssszzzzz!

If you service them, they will cast!!!

You are absolutely right about the bearings though. My 533 and 540 get used hard all season 'cause I like da' iron! I generally go through a set per reel, per season, from castin' and catchin'!


FISH HARD!

Chris
 

Passersby

junkie
Jun 12, 2006
23
0
Internet
Name
Walker
Boat
No
Very informative. I'm sure all the Newell fans like it.

Not so sure of the history though. I find it highly unlikely that Newell inspired any of the other reels mentioned, and am quite certain that he definitely did not inspire Abu Ambassadeur, since that reel was presented in 1952. If you mean that yoke-lifts-the-pinion thing, it was used by Penn in the 1940s, who got it from Ocean City in the 1930s, who got from Someone else, who got it from the Vom Hofes in the late 1890s.

Newell is a creative guy though, having designed some spools, ratchets and terminal tackle.
 

dumptruck

AKA Eddie Haskell on AC
Dec 17, 2006
435
1
so.cal
Name
Eddie Haskell
Boat
19' baitrunner
:_portable In my 2nd cast of a Newwell 338 It broke on me. I was snatching up a 15lb. Bone haed and my "new " Newell started to wriggle back and forth while I wound in the hot fish. I held the reel on the Seeker graphite rod, but upon close inspection the "graphite"--(another fancy word for plastic) had a hairline crack in the reel seat. It would only get worse if I kept on using it so I was lucky that some reels are made to "take-it" and managed to have a great winter fishing trip.(much deserved). I got an even exchange at the tackle shop, seems that I'm not the only one to get Newelled. Will I buy another one ? well let's just say nothing then. So glad to have a mix of opportunities though. Yeah, I feel better now. Thanks b
 

Double Z

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Apr 12, 2004
10,526
19
Outside the Orange Curtain...
www.IspendtoomuchtimeonBloodyDecks.com
Name
Harry S. Stamper
Boat
Nope
Don't give up on them. They are great reels and will last a lifetime if taken care of. Do the drag mod Alan described and keep those screws lubed. A cracked reel seat sounds like the reel could have been dropped at some time. I bought an SLD from a place and did not realize until after it was full of spectra and I was home that it had a bent handle. Your reel seat was cracked, it did not break on a 15lb Bonito. Not unless there is a problem with the reel seat that split it.
 

dumptruck

AKA Eddie Haskell on AC
Dec 17, 2006
435
1
so.cal
Name
Eddie Haskell
Boat
19' baitrunner
Yeah, it might not have been the fish, but so far I've only had this problem with the Newell. Oh but they are light in weight though. I guess it's give & take. Just have to "baby" them with extra TLC when handling them.
 

Double Z

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Apr 12, 2004
10,526
19
Outside the Orange Curtain...
www.IspendtoomuchtimeonBloodyDecks.com
Name
Harry S. Stamper
Boat
Nope
Yeah, it might not have been the fish, but so far I've only had this problem with the Newell. Oh but they are light in weight though. I guess it's give & take. Just have to "baby" them with extra TLC when handling them.
Nope. They are tough as hell. If you have a graphite handle and go for larger fish, you might want to add a Torium handle. There is a thread by Corb about how to do the upgrade.
 

Yerman

I've posted enough I should edit this section
May 21, 2007
722
3
Palmdale
Name
Brian
Boat
None
Alan. Thanks for the great post. You encouraged me to do a service on my 338 and I am very glad I did. There are a few things I have questions about.

First off, this is not an old reel. I have had it out on maybe 10-12 trips. It was purchased towards the end of last season and I rinse the reel off every time I use it and like to take care of my equipment so my 338 is not abused by any means. I have caught about ten 10-20# yellows on it and a handful of other smaller fish.

First question is about the drag. My drag washers are as smooth as a babies but. Is this normal? They look almost like the drag washers that are in this post. I was expecting to find something like the ht-100’s texture on them. Just curious…

Second, I think there may be something a little more serious wrong with my reel. It appears that there are very small metal or plastic shavings inside of my reel. I originally thought they might be metal but upon further inspection, they appear to be plastic. Nothing to extensive but enough for me to question if this is normal wear. In addition, you can see some places inside of my reel the looks like might be the source of the plastic shavings. I have made note in the included pictures. One thing to think about though is that the small shavings are shinny but very small and I can’t tell if they are indeed plastic or not. Thanks for the input.


Drag Washers


Shavings


Plastic Missing #1 in circle. Arrows point to more shavings...They are kind of everywhere


Plastic Missing #2 in circle. Arrows point to more shavings...They are all over. Not just where the arrows are
 

alantani

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Jul 24, 2005
1,954
949
64
Saratoga, CA
Name
alan tani
Boat
grady white tournament 19, grady white journey 258
brian, the stock drags won't stay smooth for long. change out the stock drags for greased carbon fiber. as far as the metal shavings go, you can blow them out with compressed air, then check later to see if you have more.
 

Yerman

I've posted enough I should edit this section
May 21, 2007
722
3
Palmdale
Name
Brian
Boat
None
Cool, thanks alan. Judging from your reply, I am assuming that what is happening to my reel is either normal or not that big of a deal. That is reassuring...

I spent this morning swaping out the drags for the HT-100's. I am pretty pleased with the smoothness of the drag. I had a little trouble with clearence issues with the handle/drag star/gear. I ended up discovering that I had my washers in the wrong order around the star drag and handle. Easy fix. So, if anybody is as dumb as me and is having trouble with the handle and star drag, look in the above pictures and make sure you have your washers in the correct order. :imdumb:

BTW alan, if you want to move next to me, there is a house for sale. Things would be much easier for me if you just lived next door :)
 

malibu64

Well-Known "Member"
Jul 31, 2007
72
0
Whittier, Ca
Name
Adam
Boat
N/A
<TABLE id=HB_Mail_Container height="100%" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0 UNSELECTABLE="on"><TBODY><TR height="100%" UNSELECTABLE="on" width="100%"><TD id=HB_Focus_Element vAlign=top width="100%" background="" height=250 UNSELECTABLE="off">First of all thanks for the great tutorial. I have a 332 in need of some tlc. In free spool, the spool is not turning freely like it did the last time I used it? I going to use the pics from your post to get disassemble and lube. Any thoughts on what might be wrong? I'm trying to get steered in the right direction since Ive never had apart.
</TD></TR><TR UNSELECTABLE="on" hb_tag="1"><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 1pt" height=1 UNSELECTABLE="on">
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
 

Stunner

Newbie
Oct 3, 2007
22
5
Signal Hill
Name
Chris
Boat
Prowler 13
I've had my 332 for about 3 years. A month ago I caught a 38# Ablie on my 332. I had 30# Izor XXX on it and I was winching my fish in. The handle felt really flimsy, first time it felt like that. I want to change the handle to something more sturdy. Does the Torium handle fit perfectly on the 332? is there any other after market handles that you guys recommend? Also I want a more ergonomic handle.
Thanks guys!
 

alantani

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Jul 24, 2005
1,954
949
64
Saratoga, CA
Name
alan tani
Boat
grady white tournament 19, grady white journey 258
adam, first guess would be the bearings. you can go to smoothdrag.com and get drags, grease, corrosion x and bearings all in one stop.

chris, i've got some aftermarket handles left, but they weigh a ton. they're the one's in the pictures. send a pm if you're interested. thanks! alan
 

edkitts

Newbie
Jun 21, 2009
2
0
Mill Valley/CA/USA
Name
Ed Kitts
Boat
Shogun
mr. carl newell is 82 years old. some consider him to be one of the greatest fishing reel innovators to ever walk this earth. his re-design of the penn squidder and jigmaster 40 years ago has been "adapted" to some degree by nearly every single reel manufacturer. i see the influence of mr. newell in many of the reels i work on, including....
shimano....

penn....

progear....

daiwa....

and ambassaduer.

i think the newell reel is brilliantly designed. new out of the box, they are the easiest reels in the world to work on. older newells can be a nightmare. getting the frame screws undone in a badly corroded reel can sometimes take hours. handle grips seize up with a fair amount of regularity. bearing failures are well known. and then there are the drag washers. i remember a deck hand on one of my first long range trips talking about getting "newelled." we're going to try to fix that.
these were shipped to me from a far corner of the kingdom. i knew who they were from when they arrived. it must have taken me 2 weeks to work up the courage to even open up the box.

first, you'll need to dig up the schematics that either came with the reel, or actually call the newell company at (818) 240-9652. i have not been able to find newell schematics anywhere on the internet. and if you need newell parts, you have to call norma and given her the list of parts that you need. she will total up the charges. then you mail in a check. when they receive your check, they will mail out your parts. they don't have a website and they don't take credit cards, so plan ahead.
let's start with the left side plate. back out the side plate screws, pull off the left side plate, remove the spool, lube the bearing with corrosion x, and grease the screw holes.

if the hidden left side plate screws are not seized up, back them out one at a time and shoot a bead of grease in them as well. then let's put everything back together.

now for the right side plate. remove the handle nut (key #3-22), the nylon lock washer (key #3-23), the c-clip or screw (key #3-21), the handle assembly (key #2-17), the handle washer (key #3-16), the thin belleville (key #3-142), the star (key #3-15), and the drag lock washer (key #3-18).

now pull the right side plate.

back out the four bridge screws (key #fi-640 and fi-662).

lift the side plate straight up and set it aside. here's the unitized bridge assembly. unlike the penn senators, nothing goes "boing."

pull the drag stack apart and line everything up.

clean off the "stuck" drag material off the gears.

clean up the metal washers.

lube the gear sleeve with corrosion x.

the washer that i put under the gear is a #6-113, gooped up with shimano drag grease. it's the thicker version of the #6-60 found in the old black side plate penn 113.

the remaining drag washer are the penn ht-100 #6-309. this the same drag washer found in the penn jigmaster. note that this stack of washers will typically deliver a maximum of 15 pound of drag.

lube the bearing inside the right side plate and drop it on top of the bridge assembly. zip in the four bridge screws.

grease all the side plate screw holes, install the spool, install the right side plate, and zip in the right side plate screws.

remove the binder head screw (key #bi-832-2) from the handle, lube the spindle and screw hole with corrosion x, and reassemble the handle.

reinstall the star and handle. if you find that the star does not "back off" enough, try removing the thin belleville (key #3-142). this is sometimes an issue because the #6-113 drag washer that i use under the gear is thicker than the stock fiber washer.

don't forget the screw or the c-clip. and for those so inclined, there is an aftermarket handle available.

there are many that love these reels and are meticulous in their care. there are others that had these reels seize up, lose a fish as a result, and toss the reel on a a junk heap in the garage, never to be seen again. properly lubed and greased, this reel can provide years of reliable service. and remember that casting distance is inversely proportional to total spool mass. the graphite newell spool has less total mass and a similar sized aluminum spool. all other things being equal, the newell will cast farther.
Do you recommend swapping out the stock Newell drag washers in favor of Penn T-100 carbon fiber? What sizes will I need for the P229, 332, 533 and 540 and where do i get them?