New wiring on TJ - diagram

skidynastar33

Well-Known "Member"
Aug 7, 2009
49
13
Maltby
Name
Kyle
Boat
2007 20’ Thunder Jet Luxor OB OS
Got a new raymarine system I am installing and while I am doing it I figured I would improve some of the electrical.
9BF9DB4B-CE1E-4517-93DB-A7432DD122AE.jpeg

I am adding a raymarine axiom pro rvx w/ rv100 and tm 275lhw. Quantum Doppler Radar, ray 73 vhf, putting some lighting in the tower. Then figured I would add a dual circuit plus batter switch with acr. Also will get my fuses into some fuse blocks for ease.

I think I finally got my head wrapped around it, how does this map look? What about wire size? Any recommendations and changes you would make?
 

Kool-Aid

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Mar 18, 2008
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752
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Jason
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World Cat 266SF
I'm no expert...but here's my 2 cents.
1) I don't know length of run so you'll need that to determine wire size.
2) BEP makes battery distribution switches with integrated ACR just an easier install IMHO
3) Make sure you buy the correct fuse boxes that can handle the max load of everything running. Example...Right now I'm rigging 4 scotty plugs with a 30A max draw. That's 120A at max IF all were running on fish. Is that normal...no...but it's possible. The normal 6 slot fuse blocks are only rated to 100A so I'm over if I pull full load. So I had to go to a two block set up. There might be a 125A one out there but I was pressed for time and this allows for expansion for me as well instead of being maxed out.
4) would say the same thing for your battery switch you choose. Make sure you get the rating for what's in the system
 
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fishing fanatic

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May 12, 2008
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jason
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28’ almar sounder //16' lavro
I’m a little confused as to why you’d switch some of these items as they really don’t need nor want a switch but rather just a fused power source? I.e. radar, vhf, axiom pro
 

Walker Inc.

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Jun 24, 2013
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Patrick Walker
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33 ft. Coldwater Walkaround
For your new panel uses a Blue sea 4376. It has resettable breakers in it. Avoid the fuse panel feeding a switch panel. Lots of extra wires/failed connection points.
No need for an ACR. Use your Suzuki’s AUX charging lead. Use the dual circuit battery switch for an emergency combine feature.
If you are going to the trouble of doing this make sure your starting battery is only hooked to the suzuki 140. The other battery is running the house load and kicker.
Not sure of your bilge pump quantitie, but those are 24hour circuits. Meaning behind the battery switch.

if it were in my shop wire would be bigger. The 4awg would be 2, and the 6 would be 4awg.
Tacoma screw is your friend. They have all the lugs, tie mounts, weld mounts, shrink tube etc.

But a 70$ hydraulic lug crimper from amazon. Best money I ever spent
 

G-Spot

Captain
Mar 14, 2008
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Salem/OR/USA
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53’ Hatteras STEEL N TIME
I would not switch VHF or Radar. Wire them through a fuse protected circuit. The VHF will have it’s own on/off and Radar is controlled through you electronics. Have everything exempt bilge pumps wired through a main battery switch, so you shut off everything with one switch and eliminate battery drain.
 

PNW Drifter

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Feb 11, 2017
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West Seattle
Name
Joe
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Grady White Seafarer 228
I'm doing the exact same project right now with a ACR and the Bluesea's switch. Your diagram looks almost exactly like mine.

One thing you didn't note it the fuses on both sides of the ACR, Use 100-125a fuses to protect wire not ACR. Terminal block fuses are perfect for that but expensive. I may use some circuit breakers, not sure. Blue Sea's has a diagram that shows them with the Add a Battery Kit you probably have.

Remember to fuse your bilge pumps and DON"T wire them to your on/off switch so they are always ready. You probably have that already but mine were wrong on my Grady.


I think we'll both love our ACR, no more worrying about keeping batteries charged: https://amzn.to/2UAhnuJ
 
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skidynastar33

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Aug 7, 2009
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Kyle
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2007 20’ Thunder Jet Luxor OB OS
awesome feedback!
some takeaways for me
- make sure fuse boxes are big enough, i got the 100a, 6 circuit one which is to small for 4 downriggers and tailfin steering. i will look at 2 - 100a, 4 circuit ones
- no need to switch some items; axiom pro has a power button, (plus is on 100% of the time anyways, radar is off unless turned on by axiom, vhf has power button on it.
plus with the battery switch i can turn all off and not worry about battery drain.
- save connections when possible, less to go wrong
- fuse for the acr
- make sure bilge pump is hot all the time, i didnt think about that, it is right now but with changing the way it is wired i may need to adjust.
- upgrade wire when it makes sense
- have the right tools
 
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Wild Bill

Remind me again why I own a boat
Aug 4, 2010
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Otter Craft
For those with high power black box sounder modules, it may be a good idea to have a switch in the power circuit of the sounder module. That way you can fire up your electronics while boat is on trailer and not fry transducer.
 

Socket985

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Jun 6, 2008
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Buckley Wa
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Mark
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21 ft ThunderJet OB/OS
NO ACR. They are bad for boats. Use AUX feed from your main to charge the house Battery.
 

sgwill122

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Feb 21, 2011
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'Lady Karen' 28 Duckworth Offshore
awesome feedback!
some takeaways for me
- make sure fuse boxes are big enough, i got the 100a, 6 circuit one which is to small for 4 downriggers and tailfin steering. i will look at 2 - 100a, 4 circuit ones
- no need to switch some items; axiom pro has a power button, (plus is on 100% of the time anyways, radar is off unless turned on by axiom, vhf has power button on it.
plus with the battery switch i can turn all off and not worry about battery drain.
- save connections when possible, less to go wrong
- fuse for the acr
- make sure bilge pump is hot all the time, i didnt think about that, it is right now but with changing the way it is wired i may need to adjust.
- upgrade wire when it makes sense
- have the right tools
I have a hydraulic crimper if you want to borrow it. Patrick is right it is a must have for heavy gauge crimps. It is a tool you don't use very often after you finished wiring, mine has not moved in a couple years.
 

fishing fanatic

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May 12, 2008
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Alger, WA
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jason
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28’ almar sounder //16' lavro
ACR is the key!!!! They are unreal if known how to wire them correctly.
 

fishing fanatic

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May 12, 2008
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jason
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28’ almar sounder //16' lavro
And Patrick is spot on, your wire gauge in the original diagram isn’t up to the job. It may “do” the job buts it’s completely unrealistic and a recipe for problems. I’d do at min what Patrick advised. I also solder not crimp all of my battery leads. It’s timely and takes experience but it’s the most solid connection known to man. You really should stick with the acr and yes fuse it
 

Walker Inc.

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Jun 24, 2013
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Gig Harbor, WA
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Patrick Walker
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33 ft. Coldwater Walkaround
I was ordering some Suzuki parts tonight. After some looking around I m pretty confident your 140 DOES NOT have an auxiliary charging lead. It starts on the 150hp and up. Stick to the ACR as planned. Be sure to hook up the start isolation feature as well. It will keep you from intermentitly blowing the fuse or breaker on the house side of the ACR. Don’t ask how I know🤫
 

Nineball

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Jul 16, 2012
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Port orchard
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Chris
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Parker 2310 "GUANO LOCO"
And Patrick is spot on, your wire gauge in the original diagram isn’t up to the job. It may “do” the job buts it’s completely unrealistic and a recipe for problems. I’d do at min what Patrick advised. I also solder not crimp all of my battery leads. It’s timely and takes experience but it’s the most solid connection known to man. You really should stick with the acr and yes fuse it
What is the recommended heat source? And if it changes to an iron for smaller gauges please address that as well

I have some marine connections to make in my very near future and I’d rather work to the advice of this board before anything else
 

Wild Bill

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Aug 4, 2010
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I am gonna weigh in on the soldering thing on batt cables. I have no doubt you know what you are doing Jason and I agree properly done it is as good as it gets. That being said, I caution that when done improperly it is a recipe for problems and it takes experience to get right. Unless you are willing to waste some big wire and expensive terminals to cross section and check your work, I recommend crimping with the proper mechanical crimping device. Or get
Jason to terminate them for you :D
 

fishing fanatic

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May 12, 2008
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28’ almar sounder //16' lavro
I use plugs per gauge and know how it goes per heat and flexibility. Learning from the most talented electrical guy helps. It can and does go wrong normally so I agree with Steve. But my boat is all solder and I love it
 

fishing fanatic

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May 12, 2008
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jason
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Impregnated shrink wrap is key no matter what your connection type
 

fishing fanatic

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May 12, 2008
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jason
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28’ almar sounder //16' lavro
I invite the Patrick’s and others if the site to come see the almar first hand.... dramatically overdone but such a reliable boat
 
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kwik_wurk

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Apr 10, 2012
131
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Indianola & Browns Point
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kwik_wurk
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Montauk, Sailfish 2360, and Johnson18
Couple quick comments to add.

Each of the +12VDC runs to each distribution/load center need to have a fuse (for total max load). This can be integral to the fuse box or separate in-line fuse. (If separate fuse, resettable breakers are nice if/when you want to turn off a section of power)

Bilge pumps (floats switches to bilge pumps really) wired directly and always on need appropriate fuses as well. (And recommend an isolation switch.) ...and ensuring the manual switch is properly wired.

A nice to have feature is putting each DR on a dedicated resettable breaker. That way the plugs/receptical is not hot while not in use. (A bit more cost, but if you only use 1 or 2 DR’s regularly, makes more sense.)

Often times it can be hard to completely turn “off” unwanted loads to batteries... Especially in winter or trailering. A couple extra switches can solve the “off is off” issue (like the black box or radar because those draw standby current) and eliminate any parasitic drain while the boat is unused.

As for the crimps/lug, Ancor makes a small bench top lug crimper good to 4/0 (meant for compression via a vise). It does it’s job and actually is in the traveling tool kit... But if you can get/borrow the real deal, better yet.

Soldering can be tricky on 2 gauge and thicker, with thin gauge fittings (which is what is available at most stores). Smoking the insulation is the hard part, ice pack is what i’ve tried with mixed luck. Otherwise straight forward on a workbench and appropriate clamping/vise/etc. - methods: 1) resin coat the blunt cut cable, crimp on the lug/fitting, heat and cram in thin wire solder once hot; 2) cram as much solder as you can first, then melt it (vertically so it doesn’t drain) and insert wire end (resin coated) and crimp quickly. (Never had the luxury of the nice lug solder plugs.) — Flux remover is nice to have.
 

fishing fanatic

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May 12, 2008
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Alger, WA
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jason
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28’ almar sounder //16' lavro
Kwik I agree with a lot of what you’re saying but the plugs and solder are far superior and it’s based on experience.
As far as several switches I totally disagree. Wired correctly with understanding of function my boat holds a 12.5 for a month with no charge and my main switch off.
 

kwik_wurk

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Apr 10, 2012
131
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Indianola & Browns Point
Name
kwik_wurk
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Montauk, Sailfish 2360, and Johnson18
@FISH fanantic, yes agreed soldered is better, wasn’t implying any different.

As to switches, it’s a multi-faceted, but the simple question of can can you truly shut off all electronic devices/systems from power sources. And separately are there parasitic drain issues (or similar) that you may need to isolate during different times of use. (Example a boat left at Neah for 2 months vs sitting on trailer for 4 months.)—- A single float switch (bilge pump) is probably not a big deal, no need for extra switches to isolate if a switch or wiring fails. But if a larger boat has three of them and aural alarms (all hardwired in), and lets say some remote monitoring device (”always on” whilst afloat); that’s a fair amount of electronics to hardwire and not be able to isolate when desired (short of disconnecting the battery entirely). - It’s not an ABYC requirement by any means, but an ease of use.

@skid, the two +12VDC leads running electronics need overload/max load protection. Either in line (likely) or part of fuse box used. For example the DR run is going to want a 200amp fuse. The lead going to the bus bar and secondary run will need something sized for the entire run. (It’s just like home AC panels, there’s typically a main high amp breaker that shuts down the whole panel (or sub panel).)
1585886640597.jpeg



All this said, having multiple runs from the main switch can add costs, at the trade off of ease of installation. If possible, suggest this sort of run: Master Switch->Master Fuse->Bus Bar->...A & B...(Branch A: DR’s, Branch B: New Helm). If this doesn’t work, Blue Seas makes a common source multi load (fuseEd) to meet your need.