NEW NOMAD DTX220 Minnow

No Cal Lou

No Cal Lou
Oct 1, 2009
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We were advised by a respected skipper to replace the barbless hooks. Very little slack allows an escape.
I have searched numerous places and have yet to find the same size inline hook with the same curve and diameter but with a bigger barb. The don't exist.
 
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Mr. Sunshine

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Jul 6, 2008
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Most of the fish have been coming off at boat-side....I have replaced the back hook only with Kudako 7/0’s... Have not tried it, but looks like it’ll work... also single strand seems to be the ticket as mentioned above.....
I posted before that the Kudako 8/0 on the rear worked good for me. Took some work to get the fish off on deck. Only problem was my brazed rings wearing thru very quickly. I need tougher rings. 10/0 7691s worked too. Only 1 of 6 I took didn't track. Nomad took care of me on that one.

These barbs look ok in the pic. I don't know if they are the stock hooks on the new nomad version.

 
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jbarbosa

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cabo panga
Those barbs closely resemble what you would find on a freshwater lure for trout....As mentioned above, I’ll stick with my three ORIGINAL Hooker Intruders and recently purchased Mag Traks...I don’t “do” Wahoo catch-and-release....I believe the Aussies just transposed these hooks from their lures they use on the Great Barrier Reef for release purposes...as I have read from Nomad....
 

Striker Tackle

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We sell those Owner 9/0 inline hooks and they are about 2 sizes smaller than the hooks that come on the DTX 220. You could use them in the DTX 165 and DTX 200
 

SouthBayKiller

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Mar 27, 2003
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Man this is going to sound like a really dumb question, but why don't lure makers orient the connection point on the lure so that normal hooks can be used rather than inline hooks? Or could 2 rings be used to re-orient the attachment point for normal hooks?
 

Cubeye

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Man this is going to sound like a really dumb question, but why don't lure makers orient the connection point on the lure so that normal hooks can be used rather than inline hooks? Or could 2 rings be used to re-orient the attachment point for normal hooks?
The Thru Wire would have to be bend to accommodate. It would increase production costs.

Yes, two rings would solve the problem, but would put the hook a little farther back, if that matters.
 

jbarbosa

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Maybe they should diminish the barb size further and blunt the hookpoint for
an even easier “catch-and-release” experience....Animal rights folks MIGHT go for that..?
 
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$norkle

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In my dreams!
Don't anyone go angry or ballistic over what I'm going to say here, but I'm wavering between amused and "oh for Pete's sake" reading this thread. Nomad has come onto the scene with what is undoubtedly the most productive wahoo lure any of us have ever seen, and rather than simply use them as directed I'm reading how every long range angler seems to consider himself a better lure engineer than the guys that produced these beauties. I've now watched them out produce everything on a couple of trips, and I've carefully watched every varied attempt to make them run true with cables/wires etc. that do little other than disrupt the tracking of the lure. Every one that I've observed to be misbehaving has had it rigged with something that simply disrupted the even flow of water to the diving lip----and it doesn't take much. It now appears that a short single strand wire with haywire twists will allow them to run true---that's great for guys worried about a wahoo cutting them off, but simply tying straight to your mono topshot will always allow it to run true. Although I haven't yet seen it happen, I'm sure a wahoo will occasionally cut one off, but it's worth the risk. As for the hooks with small barbs, if the line is kept relentlessly tight the fish will rarely get off. On the troll I start winding as soon as the line leaving the reel slows down, and don't stop winding until the fish is on the gaff. The mistake that I've seen made is that guys stop winding continuously at the boat, and occasionally they escape----but that happens with jigs and bombs as well--they're wahoo!, and sometimes it's simply the tension that keeps them on the line. How many times does a jig/bomb wahoo become unhooked as it hits the deck? And that's with hooks with much larger barbs. I guess what I'm getting at is that the DTX is gonna get you bit if you just fish it on the end of your line, and the fish will almost always stick if you're capable of relentless winding to maintain tension----it's not rocket science---just fishing.
 

ZZZZZ

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Dec 11, 2003
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There is room for improvement with these amazing jigs. Larger barb :D

Wahoo swim up to 60mph and are absolutely notorious for being squirrely. That is one of the reasons to never stop winding even when the fish is HOOKED good. There is the proof. Help that cause out with a larger barb. For those moments when I guess some duffus allows the fish to become untight. Insurance. Mistakes do happen and not everyone is bad ass at winding.

True imo, people are misrigging when they don't need to be rigged. Tied to mono or fluoro they swim. But most fishers do like wire with wahoo troll jigs so its easy to screw up the action with all the different wiring ways.

High performance designs take very little change to screw up the performance. Like a short board surfboard. On a extreme level is surfboard design as a example. A rider can order 5 of the same exact surfboards and they will all ride a tad different. Now change the rails, tail, concaves, V's, thickness dispersed, nose and tail rocker, fins, ect. The tiniest change will change the lines the board will take for the specific rider. Its impossible to ever get the same board twice. Unless its one of those Tuflite boards or Firewire types where they are all the same. Similiar to a DTX

Needs a larger barb. Its obvious. And obviously its a cost thing or it would had been done already imo. A request to the hook manufacture to increase the barb size for this specific jig (LR model). That's all and it is a good improvement and not being over critical.

Only a few would disagree that a larger barb would be beneficial. What if a 450 pound giant yft eats it and shakes it's head angry with the LR special model. Thats allot of hook throwing force.
 
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shellback

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Dec 18, 2003
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buy em all bruce. i'll just stick with what works and needs no hook modification or adjustment and runs right out of the box. soon they will suggest replacing the soldered ring with a split ring or that it will only run right with thier proprietary cable or you will need to be a club member with the secret password to buy it

i've seen wahoo caught with an old tennis shoe or an imitatation corncob so theres that.
 

Cubeye

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Jan 26, 2007
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Don't anyone go angry or ballistic over what I'm going to say here, but I'm wavering between amused and "oh for Pete's sake" reading this thread. Nomad has come onto the scene with what is undoubtedly the most productive wahoo lure any of us have ever seen, and rather than simply use them as directed I'm reading how every long range angler seems to consider himself a better lure engineer than the guys that produced these beauties. I've now watched them out produce everything on a couple of trips, and I've carefully watched every varied attempt to make them run true with cables/wires etc. that do little other than disrupt the tracking of the lure. Every one that I've observed to be misbehaving has had it rigged with something that simply disrupted the even flow of water to the diving lip----and it doesn't take much. It now appears that a short single strand wire with haywire twists will allow them to run true---that's great for guys worried about a wahoo cutting them off, but simply tying straight to your mono topshot will always allow it to run true. Although I haven't yet seen it happen, I'm sure a wahoo will occasionally cut one off, but it's worth the risk. As for the hooks with small barbs, if the line is kept relentlessly tight the fish will rarely get off. On the troll I start winding as soon as the line leaving the reel slows down, and don't stop winding until the fish is on the gaff. The mistake that I've seen made is that guys stop winding continuously at the boat, and occasionally they escape----but that happens with jigs and bombs as well--they're wahoo!, and sometimes it's simply the tension that keeps them on the line. How many times does a jig/bomb wahoo become unhooked as it hits the deck? And that's with hooks with much larger barbs. I guess what I'm getting at is that the DTX is gonna get you bit if you just fish it on the end of your line, and the fish will almost always stick if you're capable of relentless winding to maintain tension----it's not rocket science---just fishing.
Well said.

Two things that I have noticed is that the Nomads don't ALWAYS dominate the troll. I've seen some occasions when the Marauders dominated the troll. Probably because most of the lures in the water were Marauders.

Not all Nomads track straight ,even with no modifications. That's true with almost all lures of this nature. And especially when they have been "hot rodded" or modified. I have also seen them not work right after a couple of trolls. Why? Because some are not properly made during manufacturer and water get into the lure and knocks it off balance. It's made with a two part mold and the seam where the two molds meet could have a hair line crack in it, which allows water to enter the hollow cavity.
 
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