NEW BOAT OWNER! so stoked but so much to learn

Envy115

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Aug 17, 2011
101
18
San Diego
Name
Tommy Chang
Boat
1989 Seaswirl
First off, just because he said you need one does not mean you need one. Some people just tell a customer they need an part replaced to get the business. Its at most a one day job so $800 is way too much...
Like you said, people recommended you get the manual...
Order the manual before you take another step. No matter who comes to assist you, they will want the manual on hand...
yeah i ordered the manual on amazon. waiting for it to come. but after it comes im still not sure what to do.
 

Envy115

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Aug 17, 2011
101
18
San Diego
Name
Tommy Chang
Boat
1989 Seaswirl
^^^right here^^^

What college did you graduate from and what did they teach you?
You have no job yet you bought a boat that you know nothing about and needs THOUSANDS of dollars of repairs....and hours of internet time without learning anything new.
The fee for looking at your boat is a common practice in many industries today.

BTW and before trailering from Pasadena to long beach.......how are the wheel bearings on your trailer?
trailer is in good condition. the wheel bearings on the trailer are good and i have transported the boat a few times already without any problems. i went to college in san diego and thats where i picked up fishing. im young and i got a boat so dont be mad at me. im trying to learn.
 

Envy115

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Aug 17, 2011
101
18
San Diego
Name
Tommy Chang
Boat
1989 Seaswirl
What kind of outdrive? If it is an OMC cobra, there are two grease fittings on the right side of the drive. The one farthest away from the boat is the shift linkage. Give it 3-4 shots of waterproof grease and your shifting problem could be over. The other fitting is for the gimbal bearing, give it 2-3 shots while you have the grease gun out. You could be pleasantly surprised!

If you want to check the lower shift cable, disconnect it from the engine and work it by hand to see how it shifts. You can put some light weight oil in the cable to loosen it up if necessary.

You must get a manual and you should take kinda fishy up on his awesome offer. I bought a new shift cable online for my OMC for about $80 delivered.

Sounds like you ignition interrupter is causing the engine to cut out because it can't shift into forward gear. It is supposed to do that momentarily while the gears shift, if they can't shift, the motor runs really rough.

Get the book and read it, the OMC manuals are great, complete explanation of the systems, trouble shooting, adjustments, maintenance and complete overhauls.

Good luck! It's not that hard if you understand the system and manual!
thanks alot man. your post was really helpful. I have ordered the manual and waiting for it. I will take a look at what you said, problem is i dont think its a cobra. kinda fishy's offer is awesome and i am seriously contemplating it. Will take a look and update. thanks!!!
 

Raimond

Not as lean, not as mean, still a Marine...
Mar 9, 2014
2,037
874
SoCal
Name
Ray
Boat
23' IMP Hardtop - "4 Reel"
One thing to remember Tommy,
All the folks here are offering advice and assistance without charge. No one wants you to make another mistake, so listen and follow the suggestions given. Even a wrong guess on someones part will leave you with better knowledge of your boat and you may find something thats needs addressed before it's a problem.

When you get the manual look in the troubleshooting section for the problem your'e having, it will walk you through the items to check.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Envy115

historic

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Oct 29, 2003
332
124
3 Rivers
Name
Jack
Boat
2459 Trophy "Driftwood"
thanks alot man. your post was really helpful. I have ordered the manual and waiting for it. I will take a look at what you said, problem is i dont think its a cobra. kinda fishy's offer is awesome and i am seriously contemplating it. Will take a look and update. thanks!!!
I think 1984 OMC packages came with Cobra400/800 drives but I'm not sure. There should be a metal plate on the drive that says what it is. Why don't you post a few pics of the drive so we can help figure out what it is? You have to understand what you have before you can diagnose and fix it.

The option of selling the boat and riding on party boats with the money from the sale might be a good way to go too, especially if you don't have the budget, tools, knowledge etc to make the boat operational and seaworthy. Saltwater boating can be a very expensive hobby.

I live inland and don't go for trip less than 3 days at a time, usually 4-5 days. My boat is in good shape with fresh repower (8k), drive (2.3k), batteries (450), electronics (5k), etc and I still spend a fair amount of time and money keeping everything serviced and functional. Typical trip costs $400 to fill my boat gas tank and $150 for my truck fuel per trip since my tow is 450 miles RT, plus parking $40-50, bait 30-60, ice 15-25, beer/food, vessel assist membership ($200), boat insurance and the list goes on.

Don't mean to bum you out or dampen your enthusiasm but some real world numbers might make you understand the path you have chosen to go down.....
 

sickcat

Silverback
Aug 5, 2003
3,402
1,419
63
LA
Name
Kerry
Boat
Yellow spot
I get that some in the thread are trying to give the boy a little reality check but geeeezzz! Sell the boat? Stick to cattleboats? REALLY??! He is at a steep part of the learning curve with his first boat! Give him a break!!

Glad I never listened to the people who told me I shouldn't be fixing that piece of junk when I was young. That first skiff brought me a ton of great times and nice fish as has every boat I have had since. PITA at times and not cheap sure but worth every bit of time and effort.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Envy115

Bigeasy

yeah, yeah!
Jun 18, 2008
1,542
286
Vallejo, CA
Name
Eric W.
Boat
Tunacious 238 Coastal Twin 150-E
I have a couple of shift cables laying around! From a 1994 Reinell V6 200hp high output which may fit! The outdrive was a Cobra also! But there are variations of the cobra! Check/Compare let me know they are free!
 
  • Like
Reactions: kindafishy

ranchero

fishing-pox..?I have fishing plauge
Apr 29, 2004
873
112
SD
Name
Al
Boat
25 skipjack -Albatross
Tommy

I tried to read through all...

replacing manifolds and impellers is easy.

The pics of the motor and outdrive look good. That does not mean you may have major damage somewhere but at this point we don't know that's true. Manifolds go bad before risers fyi. Usually you replace a manifold and the riser may last a bit longer. I say F it replace everything- both sides at once-if that's needed. Usually one side gets more heat than the other. Replace all at once! Easier to stay on schedule with replacing. Meet the dude offering to help you. Draining manifolds and checking the riser to mani joint is critical. You'll see stains on inside passage. Pulling manifolds should be simple if the bolts are not rusted to block. You'll be able to look inside to see if there's rust in the exhaust ports. Riser gasket failure causes water to drop down in the runners and go back into your exhaust ports. You'll see what I mean when it's in front of you. Very simple. Then you can conduct compression test to check the health of the engine. Don't worry how bad.. it's all fixable.


I think you need to meet kindafishy, make sure he's not some Hannibal Lechner and bring him a case of his favorite beer or maybe your liver and fava beans. Reason I say that is because you need to be able to do lots of analysis, troubleshooting, and repair yourself. Easiest way is for someone to teach you enough to be dangerous. He's a pretty cool dude for offering. His time is worth more than money!

For starters- taking to a marina mechanic probably a good idea- just for a quick professional safety and mechanical assessment. You may be able to get it out fishing, that will make working on it way more pleasurable. Some folks say the cheap one is the new one. I like used boats. All the retired guys at my yard love working on boats. It's fun! Gas engines 200 -300 bucks and you are back on water. Diesels are awesome but sometimes 3-5k for apart to get back on water... point is- nothing wrong with the gasser.

It just is not that bad Tommy. Stick with it! Easiest way -have someone show you. Don't rush and don't hurt yourself. I screwed my back up re-fitting a boat by just being on my knees and twisting w/ heavy weight. Go slow and take care of yourself. Working on boats in the offseason is great. Working on boats when the fish are biting off the hook...you do what you gotta do, but you can handle it!

ALSO Blow Out Another Thousand was 20 years ago...

It's NOW Blow Out Another Two....

Don't worry dude, you are on the right track. Asking questions is the first step. Next time you are getting a surveyor. Also- get a coast guard check every year. If you ever have issues and you need to pull out the papers, you'll never be charged for their services. Also- insure your boat once it's done. Boat US is good insurance, and get the boat us tow insurance. You don't need a kicker.

once you get it all where you want it- then get on the cattle boat just to feel what it was like to sleep on the way to the fish vs spend all day before getting ready and worrying about your crew and 15 diff things at once..LOL

it's all good!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Envy115

Katmandu

Semper Fi 0311
Sep 12, 2008
502
6
Torrance, CA
Name
Catalino
Boat
Skipjack Open 20 ft. "Tale Chaser" & Tarpon 160i
Tommy. Don't be too hard on yourself. Most of us have been in that situation. First, don't panic. Don't sell the boat because of the unknown. Most boat repairs are not that complicated. If you can read and have the manual, chances are, you should be able to do the work yourself. Definitely get the manual.

If you need help, Ernie with Ryan's Boats in Gardena is a very honest person to deal with. He works on OMC. I used to take my boats to him when I was a noobie and was unsure of what I was doing. Over the years, I started to do the work myself and now do 99% of my repairs and maintenance. I buy many of my parts from Ernie. In exchanged, he is willing to share pointers on how to do things. His number is 310-324-6246. Good luck.
 

historic

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Oct 29, 2003
332
124
3 Rivers
Name
Jack
Boat
2459 Trophy "Driftwood"
yeah i ordered the manual on amazon. waiting for it to come. but after it comes im still not sure what to do.
When the manual arrives, read the troubleshooting section, diagnose the problem, get the parts (if necessary) and tools together and fix it.

It could be something simple...like lubing the shift linkage or get some help from some of the guys in the know if you are unsure what to do after you have read the manual.

Then get on the water and catch some fish in your new ride!

Hope to see you out there.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Envy115

Envy115

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Aug 17, 2011
101
18
San Diego
Name
Tommy Chang
Boat
1989 Seaswirl
Tommy. Don't be too hard on yourself. Most of us have been in that situation. First, don't panic. Don't sell the boat because of the unknown. Most boat repairs are not that complicated. If you can read and have the manual, chances are, you should be able to do the work yourself. Definitely get the manual.

If you need help, Ernie with Ryan's Boats in Gardena is a very honest person to deal with. He works on OMC. I used to take my boats to him when I was a noobie and was unsure of what I was doing. Over the years, I started to do the work myself and now do 99% of my repairs and maintenance. I buy many of my parts from Ernie. In exchanged, he is willing to share pointers on how to do things. His number is 310-324-6246. Good luck.
thanks man. im going to wait for the manual and see what happens im going to keep updating and hopefully get some useful advice from people around. but thanks for the encouragement. I want to do the same, in the beginning learn, and later just be able to do everything myself too! thanks
 

Envy115

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Aug 17, 2011
101
18
San Diego
Name
Tommy Chang
Boat
1989 Seaswirl
When the manual arrives, read the troubleshooting section, diagnose the problem, get the parts (if necessary) and tools together and fix it.

It could be something simple...like lubing the shift linkage or get some help from some of the guys in the know if you are unsure what to do after you have read the manual.

Then get on the water and catch some fish in your new ride!

Hope to see you out there.
thanks! i am gonna wait for the manual and then start troubleshooting some stuff. i will keep updating. thanks! for the support
 

Envy115

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Aug 17, 2011
101
18
San Diego
Name
Tommy Chang
Boat
1989 Seaswirl
thanks man for taking your time to reply with such a long and thoughtful response. Yeah im gonna go at it the best I can. get the manual, try to learn what I can from the manual and test what I can, then if I have problems post it on here, and ultimately am thinking about going to meet kindafishy, as long as he isn't hannibal lector. i always thought it was lector? lol anyways. I'm going to check out all the stuff i want, after the manual, i was just bummed out this guy ripped me off by checking the boat, and he basically did nothing like no work at all. and told me he needed a thousand to fix it. so i took the boat back.. what a jerk. but I guess ill have to learn myself now.
Tommy

I tried to read through all...

replacing manifolds and impellers is easy.

The pics of the motor and outdrive look good. That does not mean you may have major damage somewhere but at this point we don't know that's true. Manifolds go bad before risers fyi. Usually you replace a manifold and the riser may last a bit longer. I say F it replace everything- both sides at once-if that's needed. Usually one side gets more heat than the other. Replace all at once! Easier to stay on schedule with replacing. Meet the dude offering to help you. Draining manifolds and checking the riser to mani joint is critical. You'll see stains on inside passage. Pulling manifolds should be simple if the bolts are not rusted to block. You'll be able to look inside to see if there's rust in the exhaust ports. Riser gasket failure causes water to drop down in the runners and go back into your exhaust ports. You'll see what I mean when it's in front of you. Very simple. Then you can conduct compression test to check the health of the engine. Don't worry how bad.. it's all fixable.


I think you need to meet kindafishy, make sure he's not some Hannibal Lechner and bring him a case of his favorite beer or maybe your liver and fava beans. Reason I say that is because you need to be able to do lots of analysis, troubleshooting, and repair yourself. Easiest way is for someone to teach you enough to be dangerous. He's a pretty cool dude for offering. His time is worth more than money!

For starters- taking to a marina mechanic probably a good idea- just for a quick professional safety and mechanical assessment. You may be able to get it out fishing, that will make working on it way more pleasurable. Some folks say the cheap one is the new one. I like used boats. All the retired guys at my yard love working on boats. It's fun! Gas engines 200 -300 bucks and you are back on water. Diesels are awesome but sometimes 3-5k for apart to get back on water... point is- nothing wrong with the gasser.

It just is not that bad Tommy. Stick with it! Easiest way -have someone show you. Don't rush and don't hurt yourself. I screwed my back up re-fitting a boat by just being on my knees and twisting w/ heavy weight. Go slow and take care of yourself. Working on boats in the offseason is great. Working on boats when the fish are biting off the hook...you do what you gotta do, but you can handle it!

ALSO Blow Out Another Thousand was 20 years ago...

It's NOW Blow Out Another Two....

Don't worry dude, you are on the right track. Asking questions is the first step. Next time you are getting a surveyor. Also- get a coast guard check every year. If you ever have issues and you need to pull out the papers, you'll never be charged for their services. Also- insure your boat once it's done. Boat US is good insurance, and get the boat us tow insurance. You don't need a kicker.

once you get it all where you want it- then get on the cattle boat just to feel what it was like to sleep on the way to the fish vs spend all day before getting ready and worrying about your crew and 15 diff things at once..LOL

it's all good![/quote
 

Envy115

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Aug 17, 2011
101
18
San Diego
Name
Tommy Chang
Boat
1989 Seaswirl
I have a couple of shift cables laying around! From a 1994 Reinell V6 200hp high output which may fit! The outdrive was a Cobra also! But there are variations of the cobra! Check/Compare let me know they are free!
wow really?!?!?! that is awesome man! i will definitely take you up on that offer. I found out that the omc 184 engine I have is a V6 800 cobra outdrive and i think that it might fit. what do you think!? does anybody else know if that would be same shift cable?!? ive been trying to find it but I havent been able to. If you could man I would be forever in debt and very grateful!
 

Envy115

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Aug 17, 2011
101
18
San Diego
Name
Tommy Chang
Boat
1989 Seaswirl
I get that some in the thread are trying to give the boy a little reality check but geeeezzz! Sell the boat? Stick to cattleboats? REALLY??! He is at a steep part of the learning curve with his first boat! Give him a break!!

Glad I never listened to the people who told me I shouldn't be fixing that piece of junk when I was young. That first skiff brought me a ton of great times and nice fish as has every boat I have had since. PITA at times and not cheap sure but worth every bit of time and effort.
thanks for the encouragement! im going to go as far as I can and I am pretty motivated! the manual will come then ill go from there! thanks for the support! i might come back to ask you for something! ? lol if that is alright with you
 
  • Like
Reactions: Minions

Envy115

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Aug 17, 2011
101
18
San Diego
Name
Tommy Chang
Boat
1989 Seaswirl
thanks alot, after the manual comes im going to read and see what I can do but I will definitely maybe look you up on your most generous offer and bring it by. I think your guidance would be awesome!

my offer still stands....bring it out and i'll help you out. manual is a must though for any maintenance work like impeller change.
 

Envy115

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Aug 17, 2011
101
18
San Diego
Name
Tommy Chang
Boat
1989 Seaswirl
What kind of outdrive? If it is an OMC cobra, there are two grease fittings on the right side of the drive. The one farthest away from the boat is the shift linkage. Give it 3-4 shots of waterproof grease and your shifting problem could be over. The other fitting is for the gimbal bearing, give it 2-3 shots while you have the grease gun out. You could be pleasantly surprised!

If you want to check the lower shift cable, disconnect it from the engine and work it by hand to see how it shifts. You can put some light weight oil in the cable to loosen it up if necessary.

You must get a manual and you should take kinda fishy up on his awesome offer. I bought a new shift cable online for my OMC for about $80 delivered.

Sounds like you ignition interrupter is causing the engine to cut out because it can't shift into forward gear. It is supposed to do that momentarily while the gears shift, if they can't shift, the motor runs really rough.

Get the book and read it, the OMC manuals are great, complete explanation of the systems, trouble shooting, adjustments, maintenance and complete overhauls.

Good luck! It's not that hard if you understand the system and manual!
thanks for the reply, i am definitely goig to get the manual and then check it out, trouble shoot, do some stuff. do you know if that other shift cable the other friendly guy offered would work for the omc 1984 800 v6 3.8. because that is the one i have i think after doing alot of research online. I Looked for an exact sticker that would say what it was but couldnt find an exact one. Based on pictures and other things though i am thinking it is the 800 cobra. i will keep everybody posted, and no busting my bubble. i knew it was gonna be alot of work and some money, im just trying to do more work and less of the money. ;D
 
  • Like
Reactions: Seabass Chaser

historic

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Oct 29, 2003
332
124
3 Rivers
Name
Jack
Boat
2459 Trophy "Driftwood"
thanks for the reply, i am definitely goig to get the manual and then check it out, trouble shoot, do some stuff. do you know if that other shift cable the other friendly guy offered would work for the omc 1984 800 v6 3.8. because that is the one i have i think after doing alot of research online. I Looked for an exact sticker that would say what it was but couldnt find an exact one. Based on pictures and other things though i am thinking it is the 800 cobra. i will keep everybody posted, and no busting my bubble. i knew it was gonna be alot of work and some money, im just trying to do more work and less of the money. ;D
Here is a little OMC history, looks like you are thinking correctly about having a 800 drive:

30 Years of the OMC Sterndrive

The OMC stern drive was produced by the Outboard Marine Corporation from 1962 until the end of 1992. Because the 1962 and 1963 models used only an 80 horsepower V4 outboard powerhead, for all practical purposes it could be said that the first modern OMC sterndrive was not made until 1964 when it became available with the 110 horsepower 153 cubic inch inline 4 cylinder Chevy II automotive engine.

While OMC’s sterndrive competitors Mercruiser and Volvo mounted the rear of the engine to the inside of the transom and mounted the front of the drive to the outside of the transom, OMC took a completely different approach. They mounted the engine and sterndrive on the stringers of the boat; the drive was sealed to the transom with a large rubber diaphragm. The OMC stern drive was then referred to as the stringer mount drive or “stringer”.

The Mercruiser and Volvo sterndrive designs utilized U-joints to allow the drive to tilt and turn. The rather unusual approach that OMC took to allow the drive to tilt (for trailering the boat) was with a ball gear arrangement. For this reason, some people have also called the stringer mount drive the “ball gear drive.”

Although the ball gears and the stringer mounting system was a radical departure from the Mercruiser and Volvo, perhaps the most unusual difference between the early sterndrives was the method of shifting the drive from forward to neutral to reverse. While Mercruiser and Volvo used a very traditional, mechanical form of shifting actuated by a shift cable, the early OMC “stringers” used electric magnets to engage the forward and reverse gears. Because the newer model “stringers” utilized the traditional mechanical shifting (similar to the Mercruisers and Volvos) the OMC stringer sterndrives can be divided into two distinct groups; the 1977 and earlier models are called the electric shift OMC stringers and the


>1978 to 1985 models are called the mechanical shift OMC stringers.<


Another unusual aspect of the OMC stringer is the method used to trim the drive while operating the boat. Utilizing U-joints, the Mercruiser and Volvo drives can be tilted/trimmed separately from the engine. This tilt/trim adjustment is made with hydraulic trim rams. The OMC ball gear system doesn’t allow the drive to be tilted/trimmed separately from the engine. The complete engine and drive assembly must be rocked back and forth within the boat to trim the drive and propeller. The front of the engine is lifted or lowered to change the propellers angle of attack.
By the early 1980’s the writing was on the wall, the technology that OMC chose for the sterndrive was running down an evolutionary dead end. All modern sterndrives would have U-joints, transom mounted engines and drives, mechanical shifting and trim rams

Introduced for the 1986 model year was the Cobra. OMC built an all-new, modern sterndrive factory in Lexington, Tennessee and started producing a traditional style sterndrive. Drawing heavily on the Mercruiser and Volvo sterndrive designs, the new Cobra had a transom mounted drive utilizing U-joints and trim rams. The engine was mounted solidly to the stringers in front and to a transom mounted plate in the rear. To entice the boat manufacturers who had installed only Mercruiser drives in the past, the OMC Cobra was designed to fit in the same size cut-out hole (in the transom) as the Mercruiser. This way a boat could be manufactured, the transom hole cut, and either the Mercruiser or the Cobra sterndrive package could be installed per market demand. Rigging the boat with a Cobra sterndrive was as easy as rigging with a Mercruiser sterndrive. Even the steering cables could be interchanged!



>All 1978 – 1985 stringers and 1986- 1992 Cobra drives can be divided up into two categories. During the early production of the OMC stringers the 4-cylinder drives were known as the 400 series and the V6/V8 drives were known as the 800 series. The differences between the 400 and 800 drives are in the lower gearcase. The 4-cylinder gearcase and gears are smaller in diameter than the V6/V8 gearcase and gears.<



The only pieces to survive the OMC redesign from the stringer to the Cobra were the 400 and 800 lower gearcases. Other than minor differences in the shift mechanism, the stringer lower gearcases and the Cobra lower gearcases are virtually identical with many interchangeable parts, including the housing itself!

Both the 400 and 800 series gearcases evolved from the Johnson/Evinrude outboard line (a division of OMC). The 4-cylinder/400 gearcase is similar to the V4 outboard gearcase and the V6/V8/800 series gearcase is similar to the V6 outboard gearcase. Other than the addition of a water pump, different drive shaft and shift mechanisms the stringer and Cobra gearcases will interchange with some of the outboard gearcases!

Although later models discontinued the use of the phrase 400 or 800 series, the terminology is still used by some OMC mechanics to identify a small gearcase from a large gearcase on both the stringer and Cobra sterndrives.

While most people will admit that the OMC stringers were poorly engineered, the OMC Cobra had some pretty innovative features. The new modern factory and the Cobra engineering attracted the attention of Volvo and in 1993 OMC and Volvo entered into a joint venture and began producing a hybrid sterndrive with the OMC Cobra transom plate assembly and the excellent Volvo cone clutch outdrive. Sold as the Cobra by OMC and the SX Drive by Volvo, this drive had the best of both manufacturers. Because the new hybrid sterndrive used the same transom plate as the Cobra, Volvo now had a drive that would bolt into the same size transom cutout hole as the Mercruiser.

The new Cobra/Volvo hybrid sterndrive shared only the transom assembly with the 1986-1992 OMC Cobra. Everything behind the transom plate bell housing was Volvo engineering. Realistically, with the introduction of this sterndrive in 1993, we can say that the OMC sterndrive engineers were put out of business when the last of the OMC designed sterndrives finished production in 1992. On December 23rd 1998, Volvo purchased the Lexington, Tennessee factory and all of the production rights to the OMC sterndrives, thus officially ending the OMC sterndrive business.
 
Last edited:

kindafishy

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Jul 21, 2010
4,255
1,997
hemet/ca/riverside
Name
SCOTT
Boat
bayliner cierra express 2452 "RYLEE'S WAVE RYDER"
thanks man for taking your time to reply with such a long and thoughtful response. Yeah im gonna go at it the best I can. get the manual, try to learn what I can from the manual and test what I can, then if I have problems post it on here, and ultimately am thinking about going to meet kindafishy, as long as he isn't hannibal lector. i always thought it was lector? lol anyways. I'm going to check out all the stuff i want, after the manual, i was just bummed out this guy ripped me off by checking the boat, and he basically did nothing like no work at all. and told me he needed a thousand to fix it. so i took the boat back.. what a jerk. but I guess ill have to learn myself now.
no hanibal lector here, but........












:D
 
  • Like
Reactions: Envy115

historic

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Oct 29, 2003
332
124
3 Rivers
Name
Jack
Boat
2459 Trophy "Driftwood"
thanks for the reply, i am definitely goig to get the manual and then check it out, trouble shoot, do some stuff. do you know if that other shift cable the other friendly guy offered would work for the omc 1984 800 v6 3.8. because that is the one i have i think after doing alot of research online. I Looked for an exact sticker that would say what it was but couldnt find an exact one. Based on pictures and other things though i am thinking it is the 800 cobra. i will keep everybody posted, and no busting my bubble. i knew it was gonna be alot of work and some money, im just trying to do more work and less of the money. ;D
OMC Stringer Shift System Troubleshooting



SYMPTOM 1 HARD SHIFTING
1. Possible cause: Excessive tension on vertical drive shift cables.
Correction: Push shift cable into shift converter socket while raising tensioner pawls away from housing. (see Figure 7-1-115). Release tensioner pawls then gently release shift cable. Allow only the spring to tension the core wires. Do not pull on cable jacket to test for tension.



Figure 7-1-115


2. Possible cause: Vertical drive cable core wires crossed in converter housing.
Correction: Remove shift control cable from converter housing shift arm. Remove converter housing cover screws and rotate cover to side. (Shift converter box may be removed from adapter housing if access is restricted). Insure that core wires are located properly. (See Figure 7-1-117). Correct routing if necessary and repeat cable tension procedure.



Figure 7-1-117


3. Possible cause: Shift remote control push-pull cables of incorrect lengths resulting in too sharp of bends and/or excessive drag. Too long of cable results in additional degrees of bend. Misadjusted throttle cable will cause hard shifting.
Correction: Replace cable. Measure boat to determine correct cable length. Adjust to reduce excess cable tension when against carburetor idle stop if necessary. See Symptom 2 possible cause no. 3.

4. Possible cause: Nicked, flattened, frayed or badly kinked vertical drive cable core wires.
Correction: Vertical drive cable assembly must be replaced.

5. Possible cause: Shift cable and throttle cable connected backwards in shift control. Correction: Double check function of each cable and reconnect properly. Remote control shift arm will move before throttle arm.


6. Possible cause: (OMC Control) Concealed side mount control mounting flange binding on control handle shaft. Mounting flange and control box not parallel due to irregularities on the inner surface of the boat deck/side panel or boat deck/side panel too thick. Mounting screws tightened individually.
Correction: Insure inner deck surfaces are parallel with outside surface of deck. Inner surface should not be in ,contact with control box. Check for 1-1/8" maximum thickness of deck in control box mounting area. (See Figure 7-1-120.) Remove mounting screws and reinstall, tightening screws uniformly, so that the mounting flange is square with the control.



Figure 7-1-120


7. Possible cause: Flat side of remote control cable casing guide incorrectly attached to shift arm on shift converter housing.
Correction: Reinstall casing guide properly (flat side up) to shift arm on cnverter housing. (See Figure 7-1-121).



Figure 7-1-121


If corrections above fail to reduce shifting effort, then isolate each assembly to determine problem area. To isolate the control box, disconnect the shift cable from the converter box. Move shift control handle from neutral through forward and reverse positions. If effort remains the same, recheck possible cause steps 5 through 7. If effort is reduced, tie boat securely to dock. Insure converter box shift arm is in neutral. Start engine and while at idle move converter shift arm. Some effort will be necessary to move the shift arm. If a great amount of effort is required then a further inspection of each component down to the gearcase is necessary and recheck possible cause steps 1 through 4.
 

Envy115

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Aug 17, 2011
101
18
San Diego
Name
Tommy Chang
Boat
1989 Seaswirl
OMC Stringer Shift System Troubleshooting



SYMPTOM 1 HARD SHIFTING
1. Possible cause: Excessive tension on vertical drive shift cables.
Correction: Push shift cable into shift converter socket while raising tensioner pawls away from housing. (see Figure 7-1-115). Release tensioner pawls then gently release shift cable. Allow only the spring to tension the core wires. Do not pull on cable jacket to test for tension.



Figure 7-1-115


2. Possible cause: Vertical drive cable core wires crossed in converter housing.
Correction: Remove shift control cable from converter housing shift arm. Remove converter housing cover screws and rotate cover to side. (Shift converter box may be removed from adapter housing if access is restricted). Insure that core wires are located properly. (See Figure 7-1-117). Correct routing if necessary and repeat cable tension procedure.



Figure 7-1-117


3. Possible cause: Shift remote control push-pull cables of incorrect lengths resulting in too sharp of bends and/or excessive drag. Too long of cable results in additional degrees of bend. Misadjusted throttle cable will cause hard shifting.
Correction: Replace cable. Measure boat to determine correct cable length. Adjust to reduce excess cable tension when against carburetor idle stop if necessary. See Symptom 2 possible cause no. 3.

4. Possible cause: Nicked, flattened, frayed or badly kinked vertical drive cable core wires.
Correction: Vertical drive cable assembly must be replaced.

5. Possible cause: Shift cable and throttle cable connected backwards in shift control. Correction: Double check function of each cable and reconnect properly. Remote control shift arm will move before throttle arm.


6. Possible cause: (OMC Control) Concealed side mount control mounting flange binding on control handle shaft. Mounting flange and control box not parallel due to irregularities on the inner surface of the boat deck/side panel or boat deck/side panel too thick. Mounting screws tightened individually.
Correction: Insure inner deck surfaces are parallel with outside surface of deck. Inner surface should not be in ,contact with control box. Check for 1-1/8" maximum thickness of deck in control box mounting area. (See Figure 7-1-120.) Remove mounting screws and reinstall, tightening screws uniformly, so that the mounting flange is square with the control.



Figure 7-1-120


7. Possible cause: Flat side of remote control cable casing guide incorrectly attached to shift arm on shift converter housing.
Correction: Reinstall casing guide properly (flat side up) to shift arm on cnverter housing. (See Figure 7-1-121).



Figure 7-1-121


If corrections above fail to reduce shifting effort, then isolate each assembly to determine problem area. To isolate the control box, disconnect the shift cable from the converter box. Move shift control handle from neutral through forward and reverse positions. If effort remains the same, recheck possible cause steps 5 through 7. If effort is reduced, tie boat securely to dock. Insure converter box shift arm is in neutral. Start engine and while at idle move converter shift arm. Some effort will be necessary to move the shift arm. If a great amount of effort is required then a further inspection of each component down to the gearcase is necessary and recheck possible cause steps 1 through 4.
im speechless buddy. awesome man. thats cool i didnt get a chance to look over everything but im going to go ahead crack open a cold one go outside start reading and doing some research. lol this is awesome man. thanks you didnt have to, and im super grateful man! real talk! i love the fisherman's code/boat code! how people are cool. that is one of the reasons i started fishing in the first place! thanks a million man!