New battery or dual batteries???

Discussion in 'Boating Discussion' started by Secutor54, Jun 24, 2018.

  1. ?? fisherman

    ?? fisherman super Captain

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    I agree with nearly everything Capt.C.Delany said as well..... all except for the above in bold.

    There are two parts to your charging system, with those being the stator which are coils under the flywheel, and the other being the rectifier regulator which is a relatively small unit that plugs into your engine.

    I had a charging issue back in 2015, and I just dug up the old post as it might help you with your problem. In almost all cases where the charging system is not working properly, it will be the rectifier/regulator that is the problem.

    I can't figure out why my old thread ended without me updating the fix, as I remember doing so? Maybe I made another thread with the update... I dunno. But the fix ended up being the rectifier regulator, and honestly it was a super easy fix. The rectifier regulator took all of about 5 minutes to remove and replace the new one..... it was that easy!!

    Here is the old thread..... it might help?
    https://www.bdoutdoors.com/forums/threads/yamaha-4-stroke-charging-question-need-help.574119/

    The unknown fisherman:p:
     
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  2. Capt.C.Delany

    Capt.C.Delany Club a Sea Lion, not a Sandwich.

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    LOL I agree.. I know nothing about outboards.

    I'm going to edit my previous post to say "new charging system or component in it."
     
  3. ?? fisherman

    ?? fisherman super Captain

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    Oh I'm quite sure you know WAY more than me when it comes to outboards! I just research and try to learn as situations come up...... some of the stuff I learn I remember well, but a whole bunch I end up forgetting and gets lost in my brain LOL

    The unknown fisherman:p:
     
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  4. sickcat

    sickcat Silverback

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    Most battery switches nowadays are "make before break" meaning they make contact with the next point before releasing contact with the previous one.

    Certainly check your switches but if it is make before break then no problem switching between 1/2/ALL but of course never switch to "OFF" while running.
     
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  5. 4v1df12h1ng

    4v1df12h1ng Sensei

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    dual batt is good practice. batt #1 primary use is for starting only (engine). Batt #2 used primary for house (electronics, lights, pump, etc). When engine at idle without load (electronics, pump, lights, etc turned off) voltage reading should be between 13-14.8VDC no more than 15VDC. with loads (electronics, pumps, lights, etc) voltage will drop not less than 12.8VDC. If below 12VDC alternator at low charge and need testing or replacement. make sure all connections are clean, tight, and no corrosions.
     
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  6. plj46

    plj46 I've posted enough I should edit this section

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    The best advice i have is to NOT head out into the ocean if you know you already have a battery issue ! if somethings not right figure out what it is before you end up in danger.
     
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  7. Secutor54

    Secutor54 Well-Known "Member"

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    I hear ya! My radio was not receiving or transmitting because I had not obtained the MMSI as of the outting and it wasnt registered. Ive obtained it since the last outing and rest assured, it will be scanning while Im out there. Thanks again!
     
  8. Secutor54

    Secutor54 Well-Known "Member"

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    That's what I figured and decided to stay in the inside and fished the bay the rest of the day. Issue was resolved with the purchase of a new battery and I will definitely be adding a secondary battery. Just in case... Thanks for all of the info.
     
  9. Secutor54

    Secutor54 Well-Known "Member"

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    I'll have the alternator tested. The meter is staying between 12.5 and 12.8 for the time being and I will make sure to keep an eye out and see what it reads while operating it this weekend.

    It got all fresh marine grade wire when I did the CC conversion and all connectors have solid connection and new connectors.
     
  10. Secutor54

    Secutor54 Well-Known "Member"

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    Right on!
     
  11. Secutor54

    Secutor54 Well-Known "Member"

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    1988 Johnson 110 V4
     
  12. karlow

    karlow Twins 2017

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    My little whalewr has a first gen DF70. They have thier issues but are quite as a mouse. You could let it run all day wasing gas and hours, but why? It think its a 2002 2 VPS DI FI 4 stk. It has not been stared in a month, and with will light off in two trys. She tops out at about 30 knts and she is good for about 5-6 mpg.
     
  13. plj46

    plj46 I've posted enough I should edit this section

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    Something to consider also is those older motors usually don't have much alternator output for charging batteries.I had that same motor for years and i know it never put much of a charge to its battery.Definitely get another battery if you're using electronics,bait pump,VHF etc.
     
  14. KID CREOLE

    KID CREOLE I've posted enough I should edit this section

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    Letting a motor idle all day is not a good idea, add batteries instead
     
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  15. 4v1df12h1ng

    4v1df12h1ng Sensei

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    A good batt alone not connected to anything has an average reading of 12.5V when fully charged. Is your reading between 12.5 - 12.8 with the engine at idle with load or w/o load? if w/o load that is low which mean your batt just barely being charge at idle.
     
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  16. ?? fisherman

    ?? fisherman super Captain

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    Agree about a 2nd battery, but why do you think leaving the engine running is not a good idea?

    Very few fisherman I know stay in the same place all day, and most power up and relocate numerous times throughout the day.

    To my knowledge (and I could be wrong), you're doing more damage with continuous starts each day vs leaving it running.

    Leaving it running probably burns very little gas when at idle.

    And lastly, the times when something is more prone to go wrong is at start-ups imo. Sure a boat can lose power while running, and it's happened to me before! But I seem to recall more issues with boats losing power when stopping and then trying to start again, and I'm sure many times this is due to nothing more than a battery or charging issue.

    Again, I'm not saying this is purely right, but this is my current opinion on what I've seen, heard and witnessed.

    The unknown fisherman:p:
     
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  17. karlow

    karlow Twins 2017

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    Wrong,
    Ok it might be true for my Skippy but its old school carbed with a thermal choke. FI engines do not have a ware issues on startup. We have better oil these days yada yada yada. Time is the life blood of your engine. You can run out and fish all day and put 5 hours on your motor, of it can idle all day and put 10 hours on it. Your choice. You don't want to do that on a carbed 4 stroke (fuel washing). A crabed 2 stroke is worse fouled plugs (over oiling at idle). Life is better with modern toys Di Fi engine run as well at idle as at speed. Then its just about the hours. Starters are cheaper than engines! If your FI engine wants to start it will do so in 2 sec or less (unless it a Toyota).
     
  18. Secutor54

    Secutor54 Well-Known "Member"

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    Alright fellas, so i've decided on going with dual batteries for the insurance aspect of it. Especially because I'm planning on hitting open water near point loma and la jolla. Anyhow, im going with the Blue Sea 4 position switch. The install seems fairly simple.

    Below you will find a diagram of the cable wiring I will be going with. I guess my question is, do I need to install a fuse at every positive terminal going into each battery? Looking at the diagram, it would seem to me that it displays a simple cable bridge between positive and negative terminals, but no fuse at either position.

    1 post would be for start battery and would only be responsible for starting operation. 2 post would be for electrical components, (fish finder, radio, bilge pump, bait tank. The third post is for positive from engine.

    Am I missing anything?

    I considered installing an ACR, along with the switch. But for the time being, will probably just go the simple route to have two batteries while being out.

    Thanks in advance!

    Screenshot_20180627-074658.png
     
  19. bman440440

    bman440440 I am the one who knocks!!!

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    that is a good choice but IMO and I'm sure others will agree this is what you want to do ---> https://www.bluesea.com/products/7649/Mini_Add-A-Battery_Kit_-_65A
    and the install is ALMOST as easy ----> http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/980014350.pdf
    and it take all the human factor out when it come to remembering to switch the selector from both to 1 or 2.... honestly again IMO its the only way to go! BTW west marine has the kit for $85
     
  20. 4v1df12h1ng

    4v1df12h1ng Sensei

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    Recommend this with an additional auto-sensing relay. The relay senses voltage at a certain threshold and bridge both + of batt for charging purpose. when the engine is off the relay opens (voltage drop) and isolate both batts to prevent discharge of starting batt while house batt is used (electronic, pump, etc). selector switch in position 1 for starting, while alternator charges starting batt the auto-sensing relay detect of threshold voltage (above 13volts) and bridge both + of batts and charge house batt at the same time. Selector switch in pos 2/ALL only to jump start starting batt if starting batt is at a low charge to start an engine.

    [​IMG]



    Similar to above with auto sensing relay.
     

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