need help with LS Supreme "light stable" (new user)

Discussion in 'Fishing Rod Building Forum' started by steelfish, Feb 24, 2017.

  1. swami 805

    swami 805 I've posted enough I should edit this section

    Location:
    805
    Name:
    Bill
    Boat:
    sunk it
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    My guess would be that there's a problem with the resin, likely the different components have settled into layers in the gallon container. Try getting the gallon container pretty warm and swirling it around and see if you notice any swirls of cloudy material or swirls of any kind in it. The whole thing should look consistently clear with no swirls of any kind like if it was filled with water.Mix it up really good and try it again.
    I've had really old flex coat settle out before and I put it in the microwave and get it pretty hot,shook the bottled until it's clear and it worked fine.
    Sounds like you're doing everything right and if you've had good results with FC and D2 it's got to be something wrong with the product. Likely it's been sitting on a shelf for a long time and hopefully just needs to be mixed. That's a lot of finish and a bunch of money, Hope you get it figured out.
     
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  2. steelfish

    steelfish the BBB, Baja Bass Boy..

    Location:
    Calexico, Ca / BAJA,Mexico
    Name:
    Alex
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    Boatless
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    Well Guys I had a lot of good tips here, bu email and even from Dan from U-40 factory,
    the "formula" or procedure that worked finally for me, it was just to add the epoxy with a spatula ( didnt have one so I made one with some lexan sheet scraps from my RC cars), and let the epoxy run to the bottom of the rod, take any sags and then turn it again 180*, and do the same for the next 30 minutes, of course after an average of 15-20 minutes there were no epoxy drops but some sags that were just taken out with a Plastic spatula (still pending to get me a SS spatula), after 30 minutes doing this steps I put the rod on the 18rpm drier I currently have and the result was a smooth surface Just how I like it, I can say its as smooth as I was getting with the other 2 brands of epoxies, Im not a pro so, its doesnt look as smooth like a glass tube but either was with the other brands hahaha.

    thanks guys for all your help I will show you my results of the test #4
    the tests where performed on a scrap rod I have, I got a buch of broken rods or cheap rods that are missing the top half, so, please dont pay attention on the red wraps since they were already on the rod, my tests I did are the green wraping ( no guide), also did a 2" on just epoxy on the blank (simulatin a decorative trim), also did a metallic silver wrap and finally a dark green wrapping extention from the red wrap on the guide to make a continous wraps

    First pics are the result of the 1st coat and Then the 2nd coat 24hrs after, it has a deep efect and could dic some small details left on the 1st coat

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    This time the epoxy job looks 5x better than 1st time, isnt it?
     
    SouthBayKiller and Cubeye like this.
  3. gecsr1

    gecsr1 28' Aquasport "Reel Adventure II"

    Location:
    Poway Ca
    Name:
    Gary
    Boat:
    28' Aquasport "Reel Adventure II" / PlainJaneRods
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    Is it possible you got some bad epoxy ?
    My go to is Flexcoat, and DII, I have tried Classic as well but the Flexcoat seems to lay well and has good pot life and is very consistent ... DII tends to have a shorter pot life but the finish is great.. Classic seems to have a longer pot life than DII as well and has a nice finish ...
    Kinda sucks you have a whole gallon... of the stuff...
    and you came to the right place for answers....
    Good Luck..
     
  4. steelfish

    steelfish the BBB, Baja Bass Boy..

    Location:
    Calexico, Ca / BAJA,Mexico
    Name:
    Alex
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    Boatless
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    I really dont think the epoxy has something bad, I was told its soo thin that it behaves in weird ways when is on high RPM dryers, that why is better to start with the less amount possible, from what I read its an epoxy focused on light rods as Fly rods and light FW water rods that you want to have as light as possible, for SW use it needs 3 coats at least, so there is a hope with what to do with so many epoxy, I could use it as the 1st coat to seal everything and use another medium epoxy as D2 or FC on the last coat



    well I was having that same experience with D2, really awesome but too short life pot for my needs, since Im a beginner I still work too slow, I always needed to do 2 batches to do a small rod, I know its not that bad to make two batches of epoxy but I always ended with some wasted epoxy I was not using on the 2nd coat, that's why I searched for a epoxy with longer pot life, but ended up with a ton of epoxy LOL...
    ooh well live and learn
    thats to cost of being self-learning on reel repair and rod repair
     
  5. Lundalakan

    Lundalakan Member

    Location:
    Socal
    Name:
    Lou
    Boat:
    Lund alaskan
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    Room temp is a factor too. If your working in an Un heated garage stuff will take longer to kick. In run a space heater in my room and get it up to 75 ish. Epoxy flows and kicks well at that temp. Light formulas always seem to take longer. If I use light I'll top coat with high build.
     
  6. K. D.

    K. D. Member

    Location:
    Bremerton, WA
    Name:
    Kerry Hansen
    Boat:
    RIVER SLED
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    I got my dental spatula from Ralph himself (developer of U40 products). If you are having to always to wick off finish that you let sag to bottom of rod, you are putting on TOO MUCH finish. This is causing you to take TOO MUCH time applying the finish. This is why you have to mix a second batch. You need to apply finish, square up ends quickly and get on to the next wrap. Too much fussing inhibits letting the finish level out. The Spatula I got from Ralph, but I only use to mix. I use a brush to apply. Go to a craft store like Joannes or Michaels and go to their Art dept. They have Artists brushes that have a soft/stiff bristle (either in white or medium brown that are nylon) These apply finish like the spatula that so many claim is the only way to apply the epoxy, but have the brush attributes. They come in long and short (6/7") I have both. I think fear of screwing up is causing you to fuss too much with the application which brings in a whole host of unintended consequences. Remember the thinner the finish is, the less you can apply before it sags and gives you the dredded "Football shape". Once I have mixed the finish until I don't see any more wispyness in the finish (forget the clock) I scrape out onto one of the many small flat trays (jenny craig food tray) I have that are covered in foil. I set the brush on the edge of the finish and it wicks up into the bristles to displace the air. These brushes if taken care of and cleaned well, will last you a lot of years. I have different bristles widths I use depending on wrap length. This is just my opinion which is just one of many you will get. I am not saying mine is best, just my way that maybe you can gleans something from them to improve your method.
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2017
  7. steelfish

    steelfish the BBB, Baja Bass Boy..

    Location:
    Calexico, Ca / BAJA,Mexico
    Name:
    Alex
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    thanks Again Kerry for all your comments you can be sure that I will improve my method form all the things I learned from the help of all you guys on this thread.
     
  8. K. D.

    K. D. Member

    Location:
    Bremerton, WA
    Name:
    Kerry Hansen
    Boat:
    RIVER SLED
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    The guys on this site are great with lots of expierence and very willing to help all who ask. I have been the recipient of some of that help.
     

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