Discussion in 'Washington Fishing Reports' started by RedRunner, Aug 15, 2018.
Yep..... the bottom.... it will protect like any other coating, but come off later.....
Fuck wax, I bought aluminum for a reason!
Sandblast, epoxy, bottom paint done, never worrie about it again!
Trailer queen or slip, bottom paint
Off course, but that is not his situation.... he is going to Moore it for a month without bottom paint.... if he puts a coat of wax on bottom it will help protect it...
Sounds good in theory, how exactly do you wax the bottom flip it over in the lawn?
Yeah that’s it......
Not everybody is a high rolller like you.... It’s a 20’ boat, not really that hard to slap some wax on the bottom.... lay on a creeper and slide up under it..... slap it on every where except the bunks? Really?!? You just want to argue about it? Not that hard to figure out.....
Just trying to help the guy out.... wax will help protect it if he isn’t going to have bottom paint.... do you have anything valuable to add?
Test the waters first. Ive tested waters locally and found marinas so hot they could cause cardiac arrest if the wrong person jump in the water. Its not always the boat next to you. One small cut in a wire and the marina will bleed current into the water like crazy.
If your inclined to test here's what you do. 4' minimum piece of copper pipe, 90 the ends down and add 10-12" of pipe to each 90. Screw on a positive lead to one end and a neg lead to the other. Give yourself about 4' of wire then attach alligator clips. Insert horseshoe ends into the water submerging positive and negative leads. Attach alligator clips to corresponding leads on a volt meter and watch it dance. Enjoy.
I’d like to add that John is very sensitive and it makes it funny to get him wound up!!
All aluminum zinc's. I like John's idea on the wax.
Bottom paint on a trailered boat will wear at the bunks. The Vivid paint is soft and is easily scratched and rubbed off.
I have but my old Northriver in Westport for a month at a time. Pulled it after and sprayed bleach on the boat at the ramp and pressure washed it at home. I used the Volvo Penta style zinc's then 4 each mounted to the welded on plates by 1/4" SS bolts. Need to make sure the metal is clean before you bolt them on. NO CORROSION ON THE ALUMINUM. Use scotchbrite to remove the surface corrosion film. If you wait a day before you install them clean it again. Need a good Bond between the zinc's and the boat.
Goat, are you recommending the aluminum zinc as the way to go on all aluminum hulls or due to Everett being brackish? Also was wondering if you had an opinion on having an aluminum and a zinc anode on the hull?
I’ve had mine in for 4 weeks, no bottom paint. Just pulled it yesterday to clean it up. Below waterline is tornished and some algae growth. All cleaned up now and everything is A ok! Anodes still look pretty good too. No issues at all.
Why not clean & apply shark hide to the boat? It's a proven product that won't solve the stray voltage issue. It will help with the other issues salt water brings.
WD 40 baby, wash the boat once a year, let it dry, soak the whole hull down with WD 40, let it dry, just hose off the boat after use and you are good to go, repeat each year. no staining, no corrosion, 10 years old and just like new
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