Need a E over H brake guru

Omakase

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My big three axle has an older Hydrastar that is either dead, has a wiring problem or is incompatable with the controller in my 2005 F250. Anyone know a shop or tech that could suss this thing out for me?
IMG_2419.jpg
 
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fishing fanatic

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Those old E over H don’t like the built in truck controllers in my experience. And ironically that’s almost the exact year and make truck I had problems with. The controller sends a pulse to check for connection ( making it simple) and in doing so actuates the brakes micro amounts causing either massive over heating of brakes and or wears out the master cylinder
 
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KimH

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Do you have an aftermarket brake controller or OEM from Ford? I know on two trailers one that is new the EOH won't work with my 2013 Chevy OEM controller. If you search around in e-trailer you can find info on it regarding EOH working with OEM controllers. The Tekonsha Prodigy P3 solved my problem. On the previous boat I found a unit that mounted on the trailer that made the OEM controls work. Weird but for some reason the OEM stuff won't work with EOH brakes. Maybe it does on the newer trucks.
 
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Omakase

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Thanks Jason, I've heard something about that issue. Just remembered I loaned this trailer to a client with a new truck and didn't work for him either.

Thanks Kim, I'll look to see what my controller is when I get to the shop.
 
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Captain Decent

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Apply voltage directly to it and see what it does. Then measure your voltage output from your plug when you apply the brake.

some years factory brake controllers weren’t compatible.

I’ve got a problem with mine in a Ford 2012 f250. It’s not sending the correct voltage when using the brake pedal. I can use the manual brake lever and it works though
 
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Omakase

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Apply voltage directly to it and see what it does. Then measure your voltage output from your plug when you apply the brake.

some years factory brake controllers weren’t compatible.

I’ve got a problem with mine in a Ford 2012 f250. It’s not sending the correct voltage when using the brake pedal. I can use the manual brake lever and it works though

I'll try that Ryan
 
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KimH

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OEM is original equipment that came with the truck. Built in so to speak. Probably designed to work with 5th wheel electric brakes...that sort of thing. Damn acronyms anyway. People should quit using them.:D Maybe look up the model number of the brake controller and see if it actually works with Electric over hydraulic. Just a though anyway as EOH sure didn't work with my built in brake controller. Could be something else.
 
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KimH

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I looked up that controller on tekonsha's web site. It says it's supposed to work with EOH brakes so my idea is out the window unless it's an earlier version than what's listed now.
 
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J Woodman

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The prodigy controller in the pic is what I use as an aftermarket controller in my 2000 F350 but it works fine with my 2015 EOH trailer.
 
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Omakase

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My truck controller works OK with some of my client's trailers that I move around but my trailer is pretty old. I'm going to hot wire the plug tomorrow and see if the Hydrastar indicates that it wants to function. Would like to avoid buying a new actuator but I just noticed the pressure rating on it is 800 where the new ones are 1600 . . . and I need to haul out and move a 32 Robalo with it next week . . . don't like the idea of doing that with no brakes!
 
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G-Spot

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    There is an emergency pin? Looks like I need to find a users manual :confused:

    Some of the larger don’t have emergency pin or emergency lockout. Mine had emergency lever that attaches to the chain only...

    If you have a second person or use a battery pack you should have brakes actuate when power is given to the brake lights. You can probably hear the pump. Is it not giving you brakes or locking up? Mine we locked up and their is a reverse lockout solenoid that actually locks out brake pressure to allow backing up... mine was not functioning. Easy fix...

    It can also actuate and lock the brakes on... I had to read about it... If you are pointed down hill or flat and come to a heavy stop while pressure is on... When you slide it into reverse, it actually locks the line with whatever pressure is in it... I made a block for locking the actuator slide open, because it can be a pain in the aAs when a large boat is locked up..😀
     
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    Soremouth'r

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    Hot wire the unit first and see if the pump kicks on and go from there.

    Need these 3 circuits to turn that pump on.
    -12v constant from the charge circuit on the truck
    -Ground
    -12v on the brake controller signal (blue)

    If it turns on you need to verify you have all of those present at the truck side connector then work your way back. Voltage may vary on the trailer brake signal circuit depending on where your controller is set to but for conversational sake im using 12v to turn the pump on.
     
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    WaveDancer

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    thanks all, will fiddle with it today

    Don't forget to make sure the ground circuit coming through the plug is real good as the EHCU requires a very good voltage and ground circuit due to current draw, bad grounds will drive you NUTS, never rely on grounding through the hitch!

    WD
     
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    Omakase

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    Hooked my truck up to a customer's trailer and the controller lit up and worked the pump on his trailer fine. Then hot wired the plug on my trailer but not a peep out of my pump.

    Started digging into the trailer tongue to get at wiring and stuff buried down in there . . . who knew there was a little battery in this system? (probably everyone but me). Found a box with a very dead mini 12v battery and a broken off positive lead.

    Think I found my issue? Does that battery drive the pump or something else?

    Anyone know where to get these?

    IMG_4292.jpg
     
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    Nineball

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    It drives the pump motor. Amazon is your friend for replacement. While you are waiting for a new batt you should run the wires to another known good battery and make sure your problem is solved. It’s also worth the time to pop open the trailerside plug. Once you see what’s in there you will most likely by driving to your nearest NAPA for a replacement
     
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    Omakase

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    Thanks for the info . . . I would normally get this online but I've got to move boats right away with the trailer so hoping to pick one up locally (meaning like tomorrow in Silverdale, Poulsbo area) Auto parts store? Electronics place? Office Depot? I see they are used in network power backups. Time to do some searching . . . trailer plug is fresh due to lighting issues awhile back.
     
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    KimH

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    Thanks for the info . . . I would normally get this online but I've got to move boats right away with the trailer so hoping to pick one up locally (meaning like tomorrow in Silverdale, Poulsbo area) Auto parts store? Electronics place? Office Depot? I see they are used in network power backups. Time to do some searching . . . trailer plug is fresh due to lighting issues awhile back.
    Motorcycle shop. Maybe a place that has riding lawn mowers.
     
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    KimH

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    I'm not so sure if that's your problem since the battery should be part of your break away system on the trailer. Unless it's needed to complete a circuit from the truck side. I've understood the break away system was separate but I've never looked at a wire diagram to really tell either. Just know the batteries and little boxes with the built in charger goes to shit fairly often.

    Anyway scroll down from this link. It gives a decent explanation of the break away system. https://www.horsetraileraccessorystore.com/Break-Away-Battery-System-_c_25.html
     
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    WaveDancer

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    Budget Battery in Bremerton always seems to have lots of weird batteries in stock.

    WD
     
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