Outside sections and middle section got two full layers of 1700. Then got the outer bulkheads in. 1" pvc bedded in thickened epoxy, big fillet and two layers 1700 both sides. forward keel got 6 layers alternating 1808 / 1708. Drainage holes drilled in outside bulkheads.
How is the transom attached to the hull? It looks like it's just epoxied to the sides and bottom of the hull? The stringers seem OK, but there should be glass spanning the joints between the sides/transom as well as the bottom/transom.
about 5 layers of 1708 and 1808 tab in the transom. The upper sides of the transom will get tabbing after floor and cap go in. Stringers run through the transom and butt up to the bracket transom. In reality the actual boat transom is acting as a large bulkhead, the bracket is built like a hull extension. In the pics the tabbing in the bracket hasn’t been done yet either. It will be around 1/4 glass tabbing in the bracket. Bracket sides are between a 1/4” and 1” thick depending on if they are in corners or joints.
Did some more prep on the bracket. Had to shave the stringers in the back a bit to clear the mounting bolt holes. Mounting holes over drilled to be back filled with epoxy. Next up is fillets and glass.
Well this will be the second time around as the first attempt smoked off on me. It’s been in the 90s here and that size hole is too much epoxy in one place for it not to overheat. I re drilled them and this time around I will have to fill them a little bit at a time. It’s 3:1 laminating epoxy from US composites thickened with cabosil and has chopped glass added for strength.
even had the epoxy on ice before mixing and it still smoked off
I've been using the 2 to 1 635 epoxy from US composites. I've noticed the same thing as you. Laminating epoxy gets too hot in that volume. I just recently filled my transom with casting epoxy/cabosil. I used "Magic Resin". It's designed for that type of stuff and doesn't overheat and smoke. I went with the magic resin as that's the only one I found that had advertised strength properties.
Yea it’s really just a matter of timing for something this small. A huge area you would be better off with something like a poly based reinforced pour transom material.
if you do it in stages and let it kick off then add the next layer, these I’ll probably do in 3-4 stages over a few hours or a day. While it’s kicked but still green you avoid having to prep the surface but I’m a little neurotic and probably still will lol. Also helps have a lot of filler in the mix like glass fibers as it displaces the epoxy a bit.
got the last of the stringer glass on, 3 layers 1808 and 3 layers of 1708. Also cored the mounting holes. I smoked off the first attempt at filling them with thick mix to the point that the epoxy cracked and I had to drill them back out. So I decided to core the holes with 1" pvc. Thick mix and a layer of 1708(on rear 1/4" glass), 1" pvc, 1/4 glass puck from the original drill out, then thick mix to fill the gaps. Glassed over the top with 4 layers of 1708 as a backer plate for the mounting bolts. Bolts will also get a large washer. Over complicated something simple, but the heat is real and epoxy cooks quick even when chilled.
I filled the transitions at the ends of the stringers with thick mix, and do a wipe of thick mix with a straight edge to fill any gaps before I lay glass. The white spots you see is resin not air bubbles. Makes it a bit easier to avoid air bubbles if you do it right.