Looking for fiberglass bracket builds threads

[brokeass boater]

Well it's been a few years since my PH build on the Valhalla, time to start building a bracket. I'm hating that doghouse more every year. I don't have a welder that will handle heavier plate Aluminum so I'm thinking glass. I have a fiberglass drift boat that I picked up cheap that was a F&G boat at one time, man did they abuse it. That project got me into building molds for glassing up parts and I got pretty good at it, made custom consoles and some storage. One thing I have learned over the years is to pick the brains of others that already had figured out or stepped in the mistakes. I tried the search function and wasn't coming up with much, maybe you guys can help me out, has there been anyone on BD that have built a mold and a bracket? I figure I'd collect all the puzzle pieces first and have the needed funds, probably will have to finance the motor, good God those prices, before tearing my boat down. Thanks guys, cheers to a new year,,,gregg

 

[Hismosa]

There's quite a few threads over on thehulltruth of it being done.

 

[sbsurfer]

You can make the mold right off the transom using melamine. Lay the glass up inside it then peel it off. Glass a coosa swim step on the top.

 

[brokeass boater]

I've been reading thru tht, but the dick measuring contest starts half way thru, I find it hard to get thru their BS. I did find a couple lay up schedules that made sense. I do use melamine and sculpture putty for the parts I have made. But I think I'll be building the bracket on the bench, I want to have the boat useable till I have everything ready to go. The Radon is looking good, sits right in the water too, well done,,,gregg

here are the side consoles with rod tubes I made for the drift boat, the boat didn't have much storage and just plain sides. Used melamine for molds. I still have some finishing touches and paint it, but will wait until spring, nights are in the high 30's low 40's for awhile.

 

[a7ewizard]

Just asking?????
If you are making a melamine mold that is later removed, why not build it of Coosa and fully fiberglass it in?

 

[sbsurfer]

Just asking?????
If you are making a melamine mold that is later removed, why not build it of Coosa and fully fiberglass it in?

BC the melamine gives a nice smooth "molded" exterior finish. You do ALOT of sanding for that same finish if you just stitch and glued it outta coosa.

 

[brokeass boater]

^^^this, cold molding requires a lot of sanding, also fairing compound is not cheap, a full floatation bracket would need a lot of fairing. If you look at my consoles in the pic above, I only needed some fairing.,,,gregg

 

[Seabird254]

I have some photos of mine on here and on tht. Pretty straight forward and you have experience molding so shouldn’t be hard. I ran my stringers though the original transom to the bracket transom for strength. You can just build one with stringers in it and bolt it on tho. Mine was a 1/4” of glass minimum all overlapping so at some points where it double overlapped or more it was up to an inch thick. I say with the kind of forced out on these things add the extra glass. Also not sure what that clay costs but the non drying play clay from Walmart works just as good.

1” of rise of the motor mounting height per foot of setback is standard.

Normally 30” setback I would say that is minimum for clearance when you trim all the way up.

You can go pod style which continues the running surface straight back, straight back with a step or angled up. They all work. Hermco production fiberglass brackets did 1” of rise over 30” setback. Other brackets makers are up to 3” rise over 30” if not more in some cases.

Mines 1” angle up over the 30” setback on the bracket running surface. Matched my deadrise at 23 degrees but sharpened it as my keel is rounded. I did a bit extra at 3” higher outboard mounting height over the 30”. You will find as you research there are very few instances no matter what the hull that people don’t raise the motor height as they dial in the new bracket.

 

[brokeass boater]

Thank you for info, I’ll look up your build. I’ve seen stringers carried out to the clamp board, I like the extra strength it offers,,,gregg

 

[Seabird254]

A full on extension isn’t that much more work or materials to be honest so keep that in mind. If you do it consider putting a a step in to help break the hull free of the water when getting on plane.

 

[brokeass boater]

SB245,,Jsff, I found your build, very nice work and a ton of it, thanks for sharing it. I have a very detailed thread on my PH build, but even with pics and detail, the effort, sweat and physical exhaustion of an ongoing project never really comes thru in the words printed, hat's off buddy. I see we have used some of the same coring material, honeycomb panels and PVC board. I really like the PVC material in the right application. I used to beef up the transom on my Drift Boat, and bedding/bulk for some recessing eyes for tie downs along the hull sides. Your choice of the various fabrics confirms what I have in mind. I haven't been on the Seacraft forum for some time, but I think there was a guy with Seabird handle there, don't know if that is you. If it was you'll know Chuck Strictland, he has been our horse vet for many years. I'll be bouncing questions off him also once I start. He has a lot of experience in this arena. Please throw out any suggestion's you see fit, I'm a believer in not reinventing the wheel when it comes to these DIY projects,,,gregg
reinforcing the transom for a 8hp motor using pvc and pvc backing for flush mounted recessed tiedowns, great no rot material

 

[Seabird254]

Heck yea that looks great. Pvc board is great material and easy to get which is nice. The stuff from HD or Lowe’s just needs that smooth surface removed and underneath is foam which takes epoxy really well. If you have any questions when you get to it just shoot me a message.

Not me on classic seacraft.