Offshore lobster buoy ideas???

stuman

Brawndo the thirst mutilator
Sep 18, 2004
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I rigged my buoys with 1/2” PVC and a T fitting. It works well. However, the cannon ball sinker occasionally fouls the lines. The T fitting is a 3/4 hole for the line to pass through and 1/2" glued in fitting.

I was thinking about adding a 6 inch piece of galvanized pipe to the bottom for the weight. I'd use a cross T fitting with a 1/2 inch threaded adapter. The cannon ball sinker wouldn't be needed.

Currently, we drive up, grab the stick and pull our nets. In the past we had to gaff our buoys then clear the lines and pull.

I drilled a hole in the top of the sticks for the light.
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stuman

Brawndo the thirst mutilator
Sep 18, 2004
1,586
1,376
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stu
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skiff
More pictures of the completed set up.

That's a 5 foot section of 1/2" PVC pipe. The float has to be about half way up the pipe. Otherwise it will not stay upright with the 12 oz cannon ball sinker. This method is highly visible from a distance. The free floating spare line sinks out and is not a navigational hazard.

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surfgoose

active geezer
  • Jul 29, 2010
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    Gary
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    whichever has the longest bunk
    If the flat head is up, it can get hung up on a roller if you are pulling it over a roller. But also if the flat head is up, the buoy rides a bit better, keeping the flag up straighter. I don't think it matters much in our waters, not a lot of ripper tide movement.

    Rig half of your pots one way, and half the other. Try both ways and see if you prefer a method. Like knots and everything else in fishing, you get to decide what works for you. Not part of the regulations as long as it can be seen for what it is.
     
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    stuman

    Brawndo the thirst mutilator
    Sep 18, 2004
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    I like this idea of a fitting in the middle. It would make it much easier to transport the sticks.
     
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    NATIVE

    Deeper and Faster
    Apr 2, 2008
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    Earth
    Name
    'Smitty'
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    BaseCamp Parker 2520
    I rigged my buoys with 1/2” PVC and a T fitting. It works well. However, the cannon ball sinker occasionally fouls the lines. The T fitting is a 3/4 hole for the line to pass through and 1/2" glued in fitting.

    I was thinking about adding a 6 inch piece of galvanized pipe to the bottom for the weight. I'd use a cross T fitting with a 1/2 inch threaded adapter. The cannon ball sinker wouldn't be needed.

    Currently, we drive up, grab the stick and pull our nets. In the past we had to gaff our buoys then clear the lines and pull.

    I drilled a hole in the top of the sticks for the light.
    View attachment 1210847View attachment 1210848View attachment 1210849View attachment 1210850View attachment 1210851View attachment 1210852
    Spray foam top of "T" above rope towards buoy-
    Cut below buoy, add sand down pipe... plug with spray foam-
    decide if you want to glue splice/cut below buoy or add twist on off ability to reduce size when traveling?

    Or

    Buy 1/2 or 3/4 inch shaft zincs and attache above rope "T"... not sure the costing ?
     
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    stuman

    Brawndo the thirst mutilator
    Sep 18, 2004
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    Spray foam top of "T" above rope towards buoy-
    Cut below buoy, add sand down pic... plug with spray foam-
    decide if you want to glue splice/cut below buoy or add twist on off ability to reduce size when traveling?

    Or

    Buy 1/2 or 3/4 inch soft zincs and attache above rope "T"... not sure the costing ?
    Sand sounds like a good idea. I'll try that when I add the threaded adapters.
     

    Phat Boat

    I Should Upgrade My Account
    Apr 18, 2004
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    San Diego
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    Grady White Marlin 300
    Love the set up, something I hope to go to soon. The free weight may bang ones gel coat and I like the sand idea to help avoid this. Nice rigging for sure.
     

    skinny jimmy

    Almost A Member
    Feb 21, 2007
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    san diego
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    jimmy
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    21.5 Triump
    I have simular set up, put rebar under float and capped it.
    drilled small hole in cap, attached looped paracord with carabiner.
    I used stainless steel rings to rope to carabiner.
    stands straight up in water like keel on sail boat
     

    Predatormonster

    PredatorMonster
    May 18, 2013
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    Cali
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    Dan Monster
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    Predatormonster
    Sand a great idea , spray foam not so much . I say why not just use pvc plugs ?They make one that goes on the inner diameter so a threaded coupler can still be used ......great design ! Im going to make one for lobster diving markers . Thanks .
     

    stuman

    Brawndo the thirst mutilator
    Sep 18, 2004
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    Sand a great idea , spray foam not so much . I say why not just use pvc plugs ?They make one that goes on the inner diameter so a threaded coupler can still be used ......great design ! Im going to make one for lobster diving markers . Thanks .
    On Home Depots website looks like the PVC plug is flangeless? It's hard to tell in the photo.
    I'm thinking glass marbles might work well. Put a few small holes in the caps to allow air to escape.

    Rebar sounds like an option but the rusty water might stain the gel coat.
     

    Carl

    Bridesmaid,,,,,,,Again
  • Nov 29, 2004
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    everyone elses
    Dont forget to mark your floats with your GO ID #.
    Also, unless I missed something, you are going to have to figure out how to keep the tag end of the line from becoming a prop fouler as you haul the hoop.

    Definitely not a deal breaker, but something to be aware of.
     

    newguy01

    Almost A Member
    Mar 6, 2012
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    Lakewood
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    dennis
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    205 chapparal
    I have same set up with minor deference i have 6 inch rebar or any metal rod u can fit inside the 1/2 pipe then drill a scew on top of the T and above the metal rod to stop it its a 3 piece. Design with threaded end conector so you can break it down for transport or storage and just use your cannon ball to counter weight the rope
     

    gonzo25

    GOT A BIG ONE
    Nov 20, 2008
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    george
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    18' Invader CC 15' bayliner son of a beach
    This is a picture of my system, been using it for 15 years with no problems. the float has an 18" x 3/4 PVC going through it with a female connector at the bottom, wrapped with reflective tape, my phone number and an LED light on top. It attaches to the rope holder that has a male threaded end on the top of it, ( they do make pvc plugs you can put inside the threaded ends, to answer a question from above ) it is like two lower case "h" on top of each other, there is re bar inside of it for ballast, there are caps on all the ends so nothing gets inside of it, I have 150' of rope on it.... you pull off as much as you need and the rest stays on it, no zip ties or anything else. the rope holder goes under the float which puts the extension and light straight up and the rope holder straight down, your rope comes off the bottom of the rope holder 2' below the water so there is no way your prop can hit it... never any floating rope or a bunch of loose rope under the float. There is a clasp on the rope that connects to a ring on the bridle of your net so you can separate all three pieces, net, rope holder,and float for easy transporting. When I am going to pull my nets I come up on my float under power, put it in neutral so the momentum of the boat will carry me a little past the float, reach out and grab the extension so I can grab the rope, and when I am straight above the net I pull it up.
    The other things in the picture are what I use to make chum and Lobster bait.

    1602569163815.png
     

    gonzo25

    GOT A BIG ONE
    Nov 20, 2008
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    They say a picture is worth a thousand words. Keep in mind I usually wrap the rope up tight and use the clasp on some of the rope to hold it that way, I un-did the clasp and took off a little rope to get the sub float out of the way so you could see the rope holder and how the rope was on it. It is like that all the time, transporting and in use, just pull off what you need and the rest stays just like that, no zip ties, nothing. So which one looks like it would be the easiest to transport and to work with?
    Make just one like that and try it, after you do you will be coming home and making nine more.

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    stuman

    It's real easy to pick apart someone's set up, especially if you go into it with a negative attitude from the beginning, or your just looking for something negative. When I first showed this system I heard all kinds of criticism and the one I heard the most was,"that's a lot of gear to have in the water, it's going to get carried away in the current". If you look at the picture, notice the size of the sub float, it is big. I build my own nets and that sub float goes with some nets that the top ring isn't held up by legs attached to the big ring like the ones you buy in the stores, it is suspended by that large sub float. The bottom rings are made with 3/8" material like other hoop nets, but the top ring is made with 1/4" so it can be held up easier with the sub float. What this means, and the point is... the over all weight of this net, what makes it stay on the bottom is less than even the traditional nets. I hoop in the ocean with more extreme conditions than the bay... and in 15 years I have only lost one net and that was to a seal who went for my bait cage and got stuck in it. The little fucker almost pulled me over, but I was able to get the rope around a cleat and the bridle broke. But never lost one to current.
    The point is... that comment and all the other negative ones all proved to be bullshit.

    I said all that because I try not to talk negative shit about other people's stuff, other people's actions yes, but try not to about their stuff.
    I got the impression you were looking for some suggestions or "constructive criticism". Everyone thinks their system is the best, and of course I am no different, but the fact of the matter is.... there is no "the best" there is only what works "the best" for you. I think if you try what I showed you, you will be happy with it. It doesn't matter to me if you try it or you don't, I showed it to you and the ball is in your court. What does matter to me is that you don't stop doing what you are doing. I love seeing people using their brain and ability to come up with new things, to build that better mouse trap. To anyone who gives you shit, just tell them to "go scratch their ass, smell their finger, eat shit, and bark at the moon and die." Good luck, see you on the water.
     
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    stuman

    Brawndo the thirst mutilator
    Sep 18, 2004
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    it is like two lower case "h" on top of each other, there is re bar inside of it for ballast, there are caps on all the ends so nothing gets inside of it,

    There is a clasp on the rope that connects to a ring on the bridle of your net so you can separate all three pieces, net, rope holder,and float for easy transporting.


    The other things in the picture are what I use to make chum and Lobster bait.
    This is great! I've been looking for a way to store the rope. This design solves that problem and is well thought out....

    Approximately, how much rebar do you put in the lower rope holder?

    Why are there caps on the ends of the rope holder. Doesn't the air inside make it buoyant?

    When it is deployed what keeps the rope from unraveling off the holder?

    THANKS!
     
    Jul 24, 2017
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    San Diego, Calif
    Name
    Joseph Gratteau
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    Valco Westcoaster 150'
    Love the straight bait chopper thing! Where does one get that? I have a mixer blade, could probably sharpen it with a grinder! Also, I love seeing the different setups too! I heard Poly rope is a bitch if it gets wrapped up. I am looking at getting rid of my 1/4" setups. What other versions of rope are best? I will have to take some pics of my setup, probably pretty standard, but seems to work!
     
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    plj46

    I Post A Lot But I Can't Edit This
    Jan 7, 2008
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    These are all neat set ups but look like kelp catchers to me.I made a fancy set up awhile back and dumped it for that reason.Now it's just a weighted buoy with a bright light on top.Only rope in the water,no pipes or much else to snag kelp.
     
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    gonzo25

    GOT A BIG ONE
    Nov 20, 2008
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    george
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    These are all neat set ups but look like kelp catchers to me.I made a fancy set up awhile back and dumped it for that reason.Now it's just a weighted buoy with a bright light on top.Only rope in the water,no pipes or much else to snag kelp.

    I don't know, I hoop on the edge of the kelp beds all the time and have never had a problem with it. I would imagine anything that would get hung up on that would get hung up on your rope too. I have had kelp on them before... maybe because I am never far away from them and when I set the last one I start pulling the first one so there is never a two hour soak? don't know, but I have never lost any to current or kelp, only lost one and that was to a seal. Maybe my floats are bigger than yours, don't know.
     
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    gonzo25

    GOT A BIG ONE
    Nov 20, 2008
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    san diego calif. usa
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    george
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    18' Invader CC 15' bayliner son of a beach
    Love the straight bait chopper thing! Where does one get that? I have a mixer blade, could probably sharpen it with a grinder! Also, I love seeing the different setups too! I heard Poly rope is a bitch if it gets wrapped up. I am looking at getting rid of my 1/4" setups. What other versions of rope are best? I will have to take some pics of my setup, probably pretty standard, but seems to work!

    The straight bait chopper thing is a heavy 6" floor scrapper that has been sharpened. Mine is so old you can't read the brand name on it any more, I probably bought it at Home Depot, but that is a "probably". I just bought one for a friend and I got it at Home Depot, the handle is a little longer than mine and even though it is advertised as "heavy" it wasn't nearly as heavy as mine, I welded some flat steel to it to make it heavier, it still isn't as heavy as mine but it's close and he said it worked good. If they aren't heavy then you have to work harder to chop with them. It is the best thing I have used and I have tried a lot of things, really versatile because you don't need power to use it. It chops frozen as well as fresh and you can make chunks or make something like a milk shake. I chop up dines like a milk shake and freeze it in small plastic containers and put one in my net or bait cage (along with plenty of bait) as soon as it hits the salt water it melts right away and puts out a great chum slick and you will have stuff in your nets within five minutes.

    As for the poly rope, it probably is a bitch getting it in your prop, it's thin and flexible and will probably wrap quicker than being cut. I like it, it's cheap, easy to braid with a fed and I don't have any problem getting it caught in my prop. I was out in LJ kelp hooping alone at 2 am and I was letting my net down and a seal went for my bait cage and got stuck in my net, the little fucker almost pulled me over the side, I was able to wrap the rope on a cleat and it broke the bridle. I realized that if I would have been pulled over, like the guy in a perfect storm, I wouldn't be writing this today. Now when I pull my nets I let the rope go in the water, not in the boat, so I will have rope floating in the water for as long as it takes to empty my net and refill the bait cage. Anyone who comes close enough to me to get my rope in their prop is lucky that is all they are getting. Even if you don't turn your motor off it will be in N and the prop isn't spinning so your safe. So I don't have any problem with poly rope.
     

    longboard85

    I Should Upgrade My Account
    Dec 14, 2011
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    cody
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    17 ft invader cc (Somethings Fishy)
    The straight bait chopper thing is a heavy 6" floor scrapper that has been sharpened. Mine is so old you can't read the brand name on it any more, I probably bought it at Home Depot, but that is a "probably". I just bought one for a friend and I got it at Home Depot, the handle is a little longer than mine and even though it is advertised as "heavy" it wasn't nearly as heavy as mine, I welded some flat steel to it to make it heavier, it still isn't as heavy as mine but it's close and he said it worked good. If they aren't heavy then you have to work harder to chop with them. It is the best thing I have used and I have tried a lot of things, really versatile because you don't need power to use it. It chops frozen as well as fresh and you can make chunks or make something like a milk shake. I chop up dines like a milk shake and freeze it in small plastic containers and put one in my net or bait cage (along with plenty of bait) as soon as it hits the salt water it melts right away and puts out a great chum slick and you will have stuff in your nets within five minutes.

    As for the poly rope, it probably is a bitch getting it in your prop, it's thin and flexible and will probably wrap quicker than being cut. I like it, it's cheap, easy to braid with a fed and I don't have any problem getting it caught in my prop. I was out in LJ kelp hooping alone at 2 am and I was letting my net down and a seal went for my bait cage and got stuck in my net, the little fucker almost pulled me over the side, I was able to wrap the rope on a cleat and it broke the bridle. I realized that if I would have been pulled over, like the guy in a perfect storm, I wouldn't be writing this today. Now when I pull my nets I let the rope go in the water, not in the boat, so I will have rope floating in the water for as long as it takes to empty my net and refill the bait cage. Anyone who comes close enough to me to get my rope in their prop is lucky that is all they are getting. Even if you don't turn your motor off it will be in N and the prop isn't spinning so your safe. So I don't have any problem with poly rope.
    That bait chopper you gave me works wonders George! In less then a minute I had enough bait which was still pretty frozen chopped to fill 10 bait tube. It definitely is a time saver!
     
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