1911Nate

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This past year has been my first full year of sportsfishing for rockfish, wsb, yellowtail, and bft here in SoCal. I was lucky enough to catch a variety of different species using different methods and built up a lineup of reels and rods i use for specific purposes. Although I would like some advice for my roster of builds as next year I plan to fish more long range, mutli day trips for the best chance at some cows and other new species in different waters. So far my lineup is as follows:

Lexa 300wn spooled with 200yds 40# max cuatro 15 yd topshot of 20#mono paired with a Phenix M1 Inshore 15-35 MH 8.5 ft rod. [Used for bass, cudas, rat yellows. On live bait or light lures/irons]


BG MQ 5000D 250 yds 50# max cuatro to the top paired with a Phenix Abyss 8ft 15-40 mono rod [primarily my light setup for 20#-25# test, live bait for mid grade yellows 20#-30# in size. Occasionally will use it for shallow water rockfishing.]

Saltist MQ 10000 475yds 65# max cuatro to the top paired with a 8 ft Daiwa Proteus WN 25-50lb mono rod [live bait 30# setup for yellows and bft, thinking of running 40#-50# for poppers for schoolie yellowfin and bluefin, as I ran irons earlier this year on similar setup and they ran just fine.]

Fathom 25SD spooled with 400yds of 65#max cuatro and 100yds of 40# mono topshot 9ft rainshadow 20-50 rod[strictly my jigstick for irons for yellowtail and tuna]

Fathom 25NLD2 spooled with 400-420yds 80# max cuatro and a short (25yd) top shot of 40# mono paired with a Phenix Axis 7.8ft 25-60# mono rod [my go to for bottom fishing, 40#-50# application for live bait/fly lining for big yellows or mid grade bft]

Fathom 40NLD2 spooled with 520yds of 100# max cuatro to the top paired with an Okuma PCH C 7 ft 60-100# mono rod
[60#-80# live bait application for big tunas 50#+, 100# setup for dropping jigs like flatfalls, occasionally use this rig as a yo yo setup for yellowtail with a 50# leader.]

I would love any and all feedback about my lineup. What am I missing? What am I fishing incorrectly? Too light? Too heavy? My main targets this coming year will be yellowtail, tuna (yellowfin and bluefin), dorado, calico bass, and wsb if i can find em haha.
 
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Amadeus

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  • Mar 17, 2011
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    ...Fathom 40NLD2 spooled with 520yds of 100# max cuatro to the top paired with an Okuma PCH C 7 ft 60-100# mono rod
    [60#-80# live bait application for big tunas 50#+, 100# setup for dropping jigs like flatfalls, occasionally use this rig as a yo yo setup for yellowtail with a 50# leader.]...

    A 40NLD2 with under 600yds of line on a 60-100 PCH doing double duty, as described, for 80# and 100#...seems a risky gamble, especially if a cow takes that flat fall. Might want to read this to start:


    If the FTH60LD2 is iffy as a dedicated 100lb ("maybe" OK in a pinch if that's all that is available) then the narrower framed FTH40NLD2 with lower line capacity would be even less so. If memory is correct, the 40 is a skinny 60...the handle side guts of the two reels are the same.

    A search of "FTH60LD2" will bring up more posts in your quest for enlightenment.

    If, however, you like gambles and live on the edge, please disregard all of the above. YMMV.
     
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    1911Nate

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    A 40NLD2 with under 600yds of line on a 60-100 PCH doing double duty, as described, for 80# and 100#...seems a risky gamble, especially if a cow takes that flat fall. Might want to read this to start:


    If the FTH60LD2 is iffy as a dedicated 100lb ("maybe" OK in a pinch if that's all that is available) then the narrower framed FTH40NLD2 with lower line capacity would be even less so. If memory is correct, the 40 is a skinny 60...the handle side guts of the two reels are the same.

    A search of "FTH60LD2" will bring up more posts in your quest for enlightenment.

    If, however, you like gambles and live on the edge, please disregard all of the above. YMMV.
    So basically my 40 should stick to a solid 60# bait application or 80# to for abrasion purposes, and i need a reel with heavier drag capabilities and line capacity for a dedicated 100#. My next question is, at the landing I am fishing out of soon, they have the same rod I have my fathom paired with but on an international 16 as their 100# rental rod. If that is the case, is it just my reel that needs changing to the rod or a whole new setup with heavier rod and reel will do? And also are those rental setups trustworthy based on how I have described them?
     
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    Mr. DRE

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    I have not fished nor do I own any Fathom reels but based on specs it looks like it may be a little underpowered for a flat fall jigs and for anything heavier than 60lbs leader. If a big tuna picks up your jig it will smoke the 23 lbs of drag and your 500 yards will be gone in the blink of an eye or you will see smoke coming off your reel. I hooked a larger model last season on a larger Accurate Dauntless reel. Fought the fish for about 10 mins under the boat but then it decided it wanted to go for a swim and took over 400 yards in the blink of an eye. Strike was pre-set and measured at 25 lbs using a scale. When it began to run at full speed I pushed drags up of course but the fish never even noticed. When I got my line back I measured the drag using a scale and it was at 35 lbs. It peeled 35 lbs of drag like it was nothing.
     
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    Amadeus

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  • Mar 17, 2011
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    ... at the landing I am fishing out of soon, they have the same rod I have my fathom paired with but on an international 16 as their 100# rental rod. If that is the case, is it just my reel that needs changing to the rod or a whole new setup with heavier rod and reel will do? And also are those rental setups trustworthy based on how I have described them?

    I target the mid-range...my 60lb rod is rated 50-80, 80lb rod is 40-100, and 100lb rod is 40-130.

    You can get the 100lb reel first, put it on your PCH, set the drag to 30-33 lbs, and lift 34+ lbs (to go pass drag release point) with it to see if there's enough backbone to your liking.
     
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    1911Nate

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    I target the mid-range...my 60lb rod is rated 50-80, 80lb rod is 40-100, and 100lb rod is 40-130.

    You can get the 100lb reel first, put it on your PCH, set the drag to 30-33 lbs, and lift 34+ lbs (to go pass drag release point) with it to see if there's enough backbone to your liking.
    Okay that makes sense
    So what size fish should i be targeting with a 60# setup?
    Also I plan on nabbing the Talica 25 as my ferrari setup with a calstar or something heavy and reliable to match for a heavy jig/flatfall setup and something i might be able to troll for lighter size fish during the yellowfin season or when they hit local waters (LB area)
    What would you suggest for a 80# setup if not the 40? Also would you suggest a bigger reel than the Talica 25 for #100 bait/ flatfall rig?

    I want to make sure I dont get smoked so Id rather spend the money on the right gear as it seems my lighter setups are fine for their purposes.
     
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    Amadeus

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  • Mar 17, 2011
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    ...So what size fish should i be targeting with a 60# setup?

    Perhaps a more reasonable approach is to just have a 60lb setup ready in the rack for when the skipper/crew says something to the affect of "fish 50 or above" or "don't fish less than 50." Or if the fish are picky, another approach is to start heavy and work down the line classes until reaching the heaviest that they are willing to bite.

    ...Also I plan on nabbing the Talica 25 as my ferrari setup with a calstar or something heavy and reliable to match for a heavy jig/flatfall setup and something i might be able to troll for lighter size fish during the yellowfin season or when they hit local waters (LB area)
    What would you suggest for a 80# setup if not the 40? Also would you suggest a bigger reel than the Talica 25 for #100 bait/ flatfall rig?

    In the FTH60LD2 search, 80lb was what Penn Pro Staffer Steve Carson set up if you want to stick with a Fathom.

    As for the bigger than Talica 25 question, this is a good read:
     
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    1911Nate

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    Perhaps a more reasonable approach is to just have a 60lb setup ready in the rack for when the skipper/crew says something to the affect of "fish 50 or above" or "don't fish less than 50." Or if the fish are picky, another approach is to start heavy and work down the line classes until reaching the heaviest that they are willing to bite.



    In the FTH60LD2 search, 80lb was what Penn Pro Staffer Steve Carson set up if you want to stick with a Fathom.

    As for the bigger than Talica 25 question, this is a good read:
    Looks like the 20 sized Makaira the 20 international and the talica 25 all have their advantages for flatfall and #100 lb application. Maks seem to be incredibly popular rn. Most of the guys had them on the 1.5 day i got back from this morning and they all sweat by them as most have landed cows with them. But I love Penn reels so idk yet its a toss up between the mak and the international.
    Thanks for the advice ive now got a legit gameplan for my heavier roster
    Gonna get a 30-80 for the 40
    Gonna replace the 40 with a 60 on my PcH and run it as an 80
    And gonna pick up a big boy reel with a heavier stick for #100 application and flatfalls
     
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    Amadeus

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  • Mar 17, 2011
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    Once you've finalized on the reel line-up, your next challenge is to choose the main lines (solid or hollow) that give you the qualities and line capacities you want to fish with.

    I'm not affiliated with them in anyway, but Charkbait.com right now is offering 300 yds of "free" hollow or solid braid with a 2-spd purchase with option (it looks like) to pay additional to get above 300 yds. You will need to work out if it is financial sound to you.

    Good luck.
     
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    1911Nate

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    Once you've finalized on the reel line-up, your next challenge is to choose the main lines (solid or hollow) that give you the qualities and line capacities you want to fish with.

    I'm not affiliated with them in anyway, but Charkbait.com right now is offering 300 yds of "free" hollow or solid braid with a 2-spd purchase with option (it looks like) to pay additional to get above 300 yds. You will need to work out if it is financial sound to you.

    Good luck.
    Im thinking about your earlier advice and picking up the international 16visx over the fathom60 to see how it fairs with the pch. Mainly for live bait 80# and any heavy jigging with a heavy leader for abrasion. After this thread im thinking I need move up to the xxxh pch custom or a comparable cal star and pair that heavier rod with a 20 sized international for even heavier application (flat falls/trolling)if the 16 doesnt feel right, although with the type of fishing and frequency of fishing i do i dont think ill use the 20 sized as often since i have yet to book a long range trip. I think for 1.5 days which is what i do mostly, the 16 and pch will hold up really well for a while. Of course though im open to input and i will definitely check out charkbait for that deal!
    Although I must ask what is the advantage of hollow core over solid braid. As i only run maxcuatro on all of my reels since it is strong and gives the most in capacity for the size, I am unaware of the differences and advantages of one over the other for the application I intend to use these setups for.
     

    Amadeus

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  • Mar 17, 2011
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    ...Although I must ask what is the advantage of hollow core over solid braid. As i only run maxcuatro on all of my reels since it is strong and gives the most in capacity for the size, I am unaware of the differences and advantages of one over the other for the application I intend to use these setups for...

    Here is one real example:
    My modified Penn Monofil 27:

    The line upgrade (sorry, but the pics were lost when alantani.com had to switch hosting services):

    It is only "one" example because diameters and thickness varies between different braid line makers. You will need to do your research as to which would be "best" for you.

    I use hollow core connectors for my 25 lb and up offshore spinners given the low profile of the connection as it casts out the rod guides. Conventional, the hollow core connection is used for 60 lb and up setups. The Monofil 27 is my only reel with a full spool of hollow core.

    Here's how Alan Tani spooled up a VISX 50 with different colored hollow-to-hollow braid...the applications of hollow core are many if you can justify the cost of hollow core.
     
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    1911Nate

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    Here is one real example:
    My modified Penn Monofil 27:

    The line upgrade (sorry, but the pics were lost when alantani.com had to switch hostig services):

    It is only "one" example because diameters and thickness varies between different braid line makers. You will need to do your research as to which would be "best" for you.

    I use hollow core connectors for my 25 lb and up offshore spinners given the low profile of the connection as it casts out the rod guides. Conventional, the hollow core connection is used for 60 lb and up setups. The Monofil 27 is my only reel with a full spool of hollow core.

    Okay, you lost me haha. So you use hollow core as a connection from solid braid to line for 25 and up on spinners and for 60 and up on conventional? And your monofil is the only reel spooled with hollow core because why?
    I honestly dont understand the reasoning after reading through those threads although they seem very informative in a maintenance and building aspect.
    I guess what Im asking is why would i use hollow core for bigger tuna and what makes it different than the solid braid i use now?
     
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    Amadeus

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  • Mar 17, 2011
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    Okay, you lost me haha. So you use hollow core as a connection from solid braid to line for 25 and up on spinners and for 60 and up on conventional? And your monofil is the only reel spooled with hollow core because why?
    I honestly dont understand the reasoning after reading through those threads although they seem very informative in a maintenance and building aspect.
    I guess what Im asking is why would i use hollow core for bigger tuna and what makes it different than the solid braid i use now?

    The only way to significantly increase the 27's line capacity in white braid was to switch out the solid with hollow. Factory spec-ed 27's are 20lb 300/15 reels; the modded 27 is a 40lb reel (400/50 braid). With 400+ yards of braid, it is now suitable for offshore long range service which it has done for years now. Here is the latest report:

    The flat profile of how hollow core lays (vs. the round profile of solid braid) offers the potential of more capacity, but some anglers have experienced the opposite. It worked out positively for me with the 27.

    The splicing ability for 100% strength is hollow core's primary quality. If half of a full spool of hollow core was cutoff in a fight, a hollow-to-hollow core splice can replace the lost line without concern (if done properly) about the connection strength. You can possibly do a bimini loop-to-bimini loop cat's paw splice but would both bimini loops be 100%? Would one be OK if the loops were at 90%?

    YMMV.
     
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    1911Nate

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    The only way to significantly increase the 27's line capacity in white braid was to switch out the solid with hollow. Factory spec-ed 27's are 20lb reels; the modded 27 is a 40lb reel. With 400+ yards of braid, it is now suitable for offshore long range service which it has done for years now. Here is the latest report:

    The splicing ability for 100% strength is hollow core's primary quality. If half of a full spool of hollow core was cutoff in a fight, a hollow-to-hollow core splice can replace the lost line without concern (if done properly) about the connection strength. You can possibly do a bimini loop-to-bimini loop cat's paw splice but would both bimini loops be 100%? Would one be OK if the loops were at 90%?

    The flat profile of how hollow core lays (vs. the round profile of solid braid) offers the potential of more capacity, but some anglers have experienced the opposite. It worked out positively for me with the 27.

    YMMV.
    Okay so according to my current line up, (which of course stands subject to change) the only change im contemplating making is shelfing my bg mq setup as a backup 20-25# setup for a smaller fathom 15ld2 or more preferably a comparable torque as I hear great things about those as I only use it for fly lining or some light bottom fishing, and I genuinely dislike fly-lining a spinning reel. I feel like the action of the free spool on my fathoms are buttery and get caught or hung up far less than my bg and my saltist.
    That along with my heavier roster goals, I dont feel confident in deciding which rig would be in need of applying hollow core over solid. What would be your expert opinion/advice?
     
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    Amadeus

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  • Mar 17, 2011
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    ...What would be your expert opinion/advice?

    I make no claim to being any sort of "expert"; I relate only what has worked for me.

    ...I genuinely dislike fly-lining a spinning reel...

    Spinner fly-lining (and heavy spinners as for that matter) IS an acquired taste.

    Okay so according to my current line up, (which of course stands subject to change...

    That's part of the fun of this sport. I choose to fish "old school" conventionals for the challenge. The day will come when the old school will have to be incrementally replaced with 2-spds...

    ...which rig would be in need of applying hollow core over solid....

    Try this:
    1. Will solid braid give me the capacity I want?
    2. Will my splice knots be tied well enough for the line class?
    If the answer to either or both is "No" then an evaluation should be considered for going to hollow core (full spool or connections-only) in terms of effort-level (there is a learning curve) and cost-level (it will cost more) as an alternative.

    Suppose you want to keep costs low and go with a main line of solid. You could then splice a length of hollow and do a hollow-core end loop. This will allow you to use wind-ons, reducing the need to do onboard knot-based splicing, and potentially limit onboard knot tying to just the ones needed for your terminal tackle. There are many other variations...
     
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    1911Nate

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    I make no claim to being any sort of "expert"; I relate only what has worked for me.
    From the way you articulate your points and have reports to back it, seems legit boss hahah
    Take it as a compliment.

    Spinner fly-lining (and heavy spinners as for that matter) IS an acquired taste.
    I couldnt agree more think ill stick to conventional moving forward. Love the way them spinners cast tho holy!

    That's part of the fun of this sport. I choose to fish "old school" conventionals for the challenge. The day will come when the old school will have to be incrementally replaced with 2-spds...
    I love my 2 speeds BUT regarding your old school troller. I have literally the same reel. A daiwa sealine 600H and would LOVE to know how you built yours to troll!! I would not mind tinkering with that thing

    Try this:
    1. Will solid braid give me the capacity I want?
    2. Will my splice knots be tied well enough for the line class?
    If the answer to either or both is "No" then an evaluation should be considered for going to hollow core (full spool or connections-only) in terms of effort-level (there is a learning curve) and cost-level (it will cost more) as an alternative.
    Honestly all my setups held up really well but i never hooked a fish bigger than like 45#. So, im thinking my heavier connections may be in need of some hollow core. I’ll definitely consider it for a long range trip


    Suppose you want to keep costs low and go with a main line of solid. You could then splice a length of hollow and do a hollow-core end loop. This will allow you to use wind-ons, reducing the need to do onboard knot-based splicing, and potentially limit onboard knot tying to just the ones needed for your terminal tackle. There are many other variations...

    What kind of tools and material would be needed for that kind of splice? Im thinking i may consider that for any 20 size reel I may invest in.
     
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    Amadeus

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  • Mar 17, 2011
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    ...I love my 2 speeds BUT regarding your old school troller. I have literally the same reel. A daiwa sealine 600H and would LOVE to know how you built yours to troll!! I would not mind tinkering with that thing...

    Three 600H's are in my line up. All have 700+ yds of 100 lb braid in yellow soild, white solid, and ProSpec Metered solid. The yellow is the primary troller with an 80 top shot. The 100 lb top shots for the other two; the ProSpec is primarily for flat falls; the white is the all-rounder. All three are upgraded with:
    1. https://www.mysticparts.com/CustomParts/UltimateUpgrades/UU-DAIWA600H.aspx
    2. delrin undergear washer from Smooth Drag
    3. https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=12785.0 (5/0 size)
    Drag stack is greased with Cal's Universal. All other internal surfaces have Yamaha Blue Marine grease.

    Since carbontex as an under gear washer has higher likelihood of shredding at drag settings above 25 lbs, delrin is used instead. Can also have an additional delrin between the top metal drag washer and the spacing sleeve for increased smoothness. With a conservative theoretically 6-7 lbs drag from each carbontex, the upgraded drag stack can output 30-35 lbs from full top-of-spool; stay within this range. I've measured (after accidental overtightening) as high as 42lbs...DO NOT recommend this; the thin steel washers will deform.

    You can review these two tutorials:
    The 600H is almost identical.

    This is a upgrade that I have yet to do:
    Worth considering...

    The ProSpec one is paired with a Daiwa VIP6455XXH. Can be had for $75 on cragslist (less if you are a good haggler):

    ...So, im thinking my heavier connections may be in need of some hollow core. I’ll definitely consider it for a long range trip...

    ...What kind of tools and material would be needed for that kind of splice? Im thinking i may consider that for any 20 size reel I may invest in.
    1. Needle(s); a loop or latch inserted from reel end of the hollow core to pull the solid towards the tag end; OR
    2. a bent single strand wire for inserting from tag end side towards the reel end to pull solid in incremental sections to the tag end;
    3. spool of 25 yds or meter hollow core
    4. nail knots from a spool of cheap braid (I get this off eBay; 30lb for 50lb + main line splicing; 15lb for 20-40lb main line splicing); the upper end (heading towards the reel) of the hollow core connector to solid main will need to be secured with nail knot(s).
    Here is a video using the needle:

    If using a wire, it would insert at the points where the needle is popping out for the gap re-insertion, and the solid would be pulled through. Repeat for the next section, working towards the hollow core's tag end.

    Here is a video for an end loop (using a wire):
     
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    1911Nate

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    Three 600H's are in my line up. All have 700+ yds of 100 lb braid in yellow soild, white solid, and ProSpec Metered solid. The yellow is the primary troller with an 80 top shot. The 100 lb top shots for the other two; the ProSpec is primarily for flat falls; the white is the all-rounder. All three are upgraded with:
    1. https://www.mysticparts.com/CustomParts/UltimateUpgrades/UU-DAIWA600H.aspx
    2. delrin undergear washer from Smooth Drag
    3. https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=12785.0 (5/0 size)
    Drag stack is greased with Cal's Universal. All other internal surfaces have Yamaha Blue Marine grease.

    Since carbontex as an under gear washer has higher likelihood of shredding at drag settings above 25 lbs, delrin is used instead. Can also have an additional delrin between the top metal drag washer and the spacing sleeve for increased smoothness. With a conservative theoretically 6-7 lbs drag from each carbontex, the upgraded drag stack can output 30-35 lbs from full top-of-spool; stay within this range. I've measured (after accidental overtightening) as high as 42lbs...DO NOT recommend this; the thin steel washers will deform.

    You can review these two tutorials:
    The 600H is almost identical.

    This is a upgrade that I have yet to do:
    Worth considering...

    The ProSpec one is paired with a Daiwa VIP6455XXH. Can be had for $75 on cragslist (less if you are a good haggler):




    1. Needle(s); a loop or latch inserted from reel end of the hollow core to pull the solid towards the tag end; OR
    2. a bent single strand wire for inserting from tag end side towards the reel end to pull solid in incremental sections to the tag end;
    3. spool of 25 yds or meter hollow core
    4. nail knots from a spool of cheap braid (I get this off eBay; 30lb for 50lb + main line splicing; 15lb for 20-40lb main line splicing); the upper end (heading towards the reel) of the hollow core connector to solid main will need to be secured with nail knot(s).
    Here is a video using the needle:

    If using a wire, it would insert at the points where the needle is popping out for the gap re-insertion, and the solid would be pulled through. Repeat for the next section, working towards the hollow core's tag end.

    Here is a video for an end loop (using a wire):
    Damn dude thanks for all the helpful info ill order some tools and some stuff to get started!

    Also in your opinion what would you use as a 30# outfit mainly for fly lining(btw if im not bottom fishing im only using heavier outifts for yellowtail, wsb, and tuna)?
    I dont like any of my spinners as a 30# outfit for this purpose and I feel like I could dual purpose my fathom25N sd as a 30# leader but i prefer it as my jig outfit since the rod is paired with is a 9ft jig stick. So thats why im contemplating the purchase. I dont mind retying a leader in the heat of the bite but if i could id like to avoid it.
    Any thoughts?
    Im torn now between a talica 12 for its immense amount of drag, line capacity, and cast-ability for a two speed, trini 14a cuz its so smooth and holds up well for bigger fish and a torque 15 for the same reasons as the talica but also because its Penn.
    Also i like my lexa as a 20# outfit with a rod thats light enough for finesse fishing but has enough backbone in case the bite is finicky or we’re going after schoolies (tuna or yt). I dont feel like I need changing in that category but what do you think?
     
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    Amadeus

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  • Mar 17, 2011
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    There is little insight I can offer here. My preferred conventional 30lb-der is the Penn 970...4.25:1, 300+ yds of 50lb braid main...last made in the 1980's.

    I'm also perfectly comfortable fly-lining the Daiwa BG6500 with a 30lb leader if needed. For your entertainment, third post down, fifth video:

    On the Lexa, if it works for you, then anything coming from the "peanut gallery" is just noise...
     
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    1911Nate

    Newbie
    Jan 18, 2021
    40
    6
    Long Beach California
    Name
    Nathan
    Boat Name
    None
    There is little insight I can offer here. My preferred conventional 30lb-der is the Penn 970...4.25:1, 300+ yds of 50lb braid main...last made in the 1980's.

    I'm also perfectly comfortable fly-lining the Daiwa BG6500 with a 30lb leader if needed. For your entertainment, third post down, fifth video:

    On the Lexa, if it works for you, then anything coming from the "peanut gallery" is just noise...
    My 6500 was my 30# fly line before haha before i replaced it with my saltist MQ. But im thinking i want a conventional with an awesome free spool. So would you say minimum 300 yds for a solid 20# or 30# setup, or should I be looking for more?
     
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    1911Nate

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    Jan 18, 2021
    40
    6
    Long Beach California
    Name
    Nathan
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    Winner, winner, chicken dinner!!!
    Pulled the trigger on the Saltiga 20 2spd got 430 yds of 50# maxcuattro left some room for some short top shots might just run the connection outside the loop. Was gonna go with Charkbait but ended up going with my local shop since they hooked me up pretty nice and are holding a really nice rod for me when i get back in town.
    Also, I did a comparison of the free spool between this, the fathom 25sd the fathom 25nld2 and my lexa 300
    Smoked the 25nld2 and the lexa
    Literally same exact free spool as the 25 star drag
    Im genuinely blown away at how smooth this reel is but it was definitely worth the price!

    52EC490D-CB61-40BC-A950-8772E4235EE9.jpeg
     
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    Amadeus

    I Should Upgrade My Account
  • Mar 17, 2011
    1,497
    993
    San Diego/CA/US
    Name
    Wai Jung
    Boat Name
    Seahawk II
    As with any new reel, the pre-service maintenance comes to mind; dry internal metal surfaces left ungreased by the factory are prone to SW corrosion with any SW intrusion. Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be any tutorials available on the latest gen Saltiga's.

    Try posting the question at alantani.com or PM Alan there; as of the timestamp of this response, he hasn't been on BD since July 2021, but he has been active at his own site.
     
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    1911Nate

    Newbie
    Jan 18, 2021
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    6
    Long Beach California
    Name
    Nathan
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    As with any new reel, the pre-service maintenance comes to mind; dry internal metal surfaces left ungreased by the factory are prone to SW corrosion with any SW intrusion. Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be any tutorials available on the latest gen Saltiga's.
    Yeah I havent seen much footage or info on them at all but they’ve supposedly revamped the design making it stronger and more resistant to wear.
    Try posting the question at alantani.com or PM Alan there; as of the timestamp of this response, he hasn't been on BD since July 2021, but he has been active at his own site.
    Yeah i think i will. I saw the video he put out about the cam wearing and causing the reel to lose free spool. From what Ive heard only in comments, this new gen saltiga has that issue figured out but I hope to get clarification from Alan. If it does need greasing ill take it to bobs with the rest of my lineup that needs it. Thanks for the advice
     
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