Kodiak Trailer brakes

sbsyncro

Fishing, spearfishing, hunting, Jeeping...
Oct 13, 2008
210
10
Santa Barbara, CA
Name
Brent
Boat
"Lori-K" (Parker 2320EC)
So I just did a complete overhaul of the Kodiak brakes on my Pacific trailer, which included replacing the rotted out old pads with stainless units. The boat is slipped, so the trailer is empty. As any of you that have done brake jobs before know, I had to push open the calipers in order to remove them and install the new pads and rotors. Now everything is together and the pads are loose. They are supposed to be "staked down" (little metal ears bent over) but because they are loose, I cannot get enough leverage on them to stake them down - there's too much space between the pad and the rotor.

This installation "staking" process can be seen at about the 4:45 mark on this video:

I tried towing the trailer a short distance and slamming on the brakes a few times to engage the actuator and "seat" the pads, but I don't think there is enough weight on the trailer because it is empty.

So now I have brake pads that are just "floating" (they won't go anywhere, but they are looser than they should be).

I have a ~20 mile drive to pick up the boat before towing it another 50 miles for service. Two questions for those knowledgeable on these Kodiak brakes:

1. Is there a danger of just driving it 20 miles (unloaded) without the pads being staked down? I'm assuming the big issue would just be brake chatter/noise, which is not a big deal.

2. Any tricks to getting the pads staked down?

Thanks!
 
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a7ewizard

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Jun 4, 2009
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WARREN WEISENBURG
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I watched that video. Cleanest brake caliper I've ever seen!

Funny thing is my pads came last week so I'll be doing this soon.

Can you wedge a door shim or chisel between the rotor and pad so you can bend that tab over?
 
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tuner

pysgotwyr
  • May 24, 2006
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    Cycle the master cylinder to pump fluid to the calipers. Or hitch it to your truck and disconnect the reverse solenoid, then bump the trans in forward and reverse until the brakes grab in reverse. Make sure the reservoir is full of fluid.
     
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    sbsyncro

    Fishing, spearfishing, hunting, Jeeping...
    Oct 13, 2008
    210
    10
    Santa Barbara, CA
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    Brent
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    "Lori-K" (Parker 2320EC)
    I watched that video. Cleanest brake caliper I've ever seen!

    Funny thing is my pads came last week so I'll be doing this soon.

    Can you wedge a door shim or chisel between the rotor and pad so you can bend that tab over?

    Its a pretty easy job if the bolts aren't all rusted - toughest part was getting the lug nuts off.

    I tried shimming the pad, but I ended up breaking one (luckily I had a spare set) so that approach is a no-go.

    Cycle the master cylinder to pump fluid to the calipers. Or hitch it to your truck and disconnect the reverse solenoid, then bump the trans in forward and reverse until the brakes grab in reverse. Make sure the reservoir is full of fluid.

    I tried exactly this, but the brakes didn't pressurize - I suspect that I did not have enough weight on the trailer do actuate the master cylinder (actuator) at the speeds I was going (about 15 mph then slamming on the brakes). With ABS it won't come to a "jarring" stop, so thats probably contributing to the problem. Sometimes I really miss my old '95 F250 7.3 Diesel...
     
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    sbsyncro

    Fishing, spearfishing, hunting, Jeeping...
    Oct 13, 2008
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    Santa Barbara, CA
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    Brent
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    "Lori-K" (Parker 2320EC)
    chock the tires. No need to shock it, just cycle the master cylinder.

    Good idea - didn't even think about that (probably because I didn't have any wheel chocks). But I should be able to just back it into a curb to have the same effect.
     
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    skipjack

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  • Oct 20, 2004
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    2320 Parker "Donna Marie"
    Make sure there’s brake fluid in the master cylinder.
    next,put a pair of vise grips on the lever that the brake safety chain is attached to.
    pull it forward,it’s pumps the brake fluid to the Calipers.
    it locks after you pull it forward. (There are 2 locking tabs on the side of the lever that hold the lever if it gets pulled forward by the safety chain)
    Get a screwdriver and push the Lock tabs to the side on both sides. Return the lever with the vise grips.
    Now pump it again,(Pulling the lever forward) repeat the Procedure. It’s pretty easy once you get it down. If you have problems,you can call me. (Retired technician)
     
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    sbsyncro

    Fishing, spearfishing, hunting, Jeeping...
    Oct 13, 2008
    210
    10
    Santa Barbara, CA
    Name
    Brent
    Boat
    "Lori-K" (Parker 2320EC)
    Make sure there’s brake fluid in the master cylinder.
    next,put a pair of vise grips on the lever that the brake safety chain is attached to.
    pull it forward,it’s pumps the brake fluid to the Calipers.
    it locks after you pull it forward. (There are 2 locking tabs on the side of the lever that hold the lever if it gets pulled forward by the safety chain)
    Get a screwdriver and push the Lock tabs to the side on both sides. Return the lever with the vise grips.
    Now pump it again,(Pulling the lever forward) repeat the Procedure. It’s pretty easy once you get it down. If you have problems,you can call me. (Retired technician)


    THANK YOU! This is exactly the sort of info I was looking for! I don't suppose you have a trick to bending down those *#$&*^ thick tabs to stake the pads? (its definitely not as easy as that video makes it look!). Unfortunately the biggest slip-joint pliers I have are 10". Maybe I just need to go get a bigger pair. I don't think hitting them with a punch is a good idea, as it might loosen or crack the pad material...
     
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    skipjack

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  • Oct 20, 2004
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    I didn’t have to bend any tabs on my Kodiak brakes.(2nd new set).
    I know on certain automobiles thats needed,But my calipers keep the pads on,in place.
     
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    sbsyncro

    Fishing, spearfishing, hunting, Jeeping...
    Oct 13, 2008
    210
    10
    Santa Barbara, CA
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    Brent
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    "Lori-K" (Parker 2320EC)
    I didn’t have to bend any tabs on my Kodiak brakes.(2nd new set).
    I know on certain automobiles thats needed,But my calipers keep the pads on,in place.


    Hmm. They locate just fine and are held in place but the old ones that came out definitely were bent over a bit. These are the 225SS calipers
     
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    skipjack

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  • Oct 20, 2004
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    I just looked and mine, they are bent over also.
    I didn’t realize it,as mine were an assembled kit (stainless calipers) sorry if I misguiding you.
     
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    sbsyncro

    Fishing, spearfishing, hunting, Jeeping...
    Oct 13, 2008
    210
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    Santa Barbara, CA
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    Brent
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    "Lori-K" (Parker 2320EC)
    No worries. Well, as it turns out the trick of pulling the "emergency brake" didn't work. It didn't seem like it was connected to anything and just flopped forward. I have a feeling my actuator/master cylinder might be frozen up. The brake fluid looked full and clear, but even after repeatedly slamming into the actuator with my Jeep bumper, I could not get any pressure into the braking system to seat the pads. Today I'm going to just load the boat on there and see if the extra weight will activate the master cylinder. If not, it looks like a rebuild is in the works...

    It is this one: Amazon product
     
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    skipjack

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  • Oct 20, 2004
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    If it has fluid in it,I agree that your trailer brake master cylinder is bad,you should have felt some resistance while pumping it and bleeding it.
     
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    ltran0614

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    May 8, 2013
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    27' Farallon Whaleback & 27' Radon LRB
    If you have a Pacific, you should call Sergio in the Parts Dept., guy is SUPER knowledgeable and will walk you through whatever issue it is you are having.

    I recently rebuilt my entire undercarriage ... when it came time to the pads, channel locks did it for me ... bent the ears over pretty easily. When you say theres a gap, how big a gap? I wonder if you have the right rotor/caliper combo??
     
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