How to ball park a rebuild budget?

Doug93003

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Sep 23, 2016
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Doug
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Nope
I'm looking at a couple Radons, both in decent shape, mid 90's. Both have open Hawaiian style pilot house with the swept back windows. I would like the extended enclosed pilot house with the traditional Radon cabin configuration and look. What is a good budget for a new pilot house, full gel coat, all glass console/electronics twin outboards etc?

I know details matter but I'm trying to figure out if going used is the correct route or getting in line with one of the few local manufacturers of these types of boats.

Thanks
 
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URN

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  • Feb 20, 2018
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    URN
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    Whaler 25
    I'm looking at a couple Radons, both in decent shape, mid 90's. Both have open Hawaiian style pilot house with the swept back windows. I would like the extended enclosed pilot house with the traditional Radon cabin configuration and look. What is a good budget for a new pilot house, full gel coat, all glass console/electronics twin outboards etc?

    I know details matter but I'm trying to figure out if going used is the correct route or getting in line with one of the few local manufacturers of these types of boats.

    Thanks

    Would you be doing the work yourself? Do you plan on buying a pilothouse already built and installing it on the hull of choice yourself or having someone do it?

    I've found with the two whalers plus the other boats from glass to aluminum I've restored that it's the little things adding up that end up killing the budget.

    Take your large item costs and add them up. Take your estimated small incidentals costs and add them up. Multiply the incidental costs by 4 or even 6 and you're in the ballpark.

    Take the time estimated to finish a project and multiply that time by 4 and you're closer to the actual time to build.
     
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    gonzo25

    GOT A BIG ONE
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    george
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    I know you might not think so, but URN is pretty much right on the money. BOAT= Break Out Another Thousand
     
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    starbright55

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    Dec 4, 2011
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    17' Avon Searider
    What know keely said

    Answer - It depends. If you can do it yourself, you could save 50% off new. If you start subbing stuff out and manage it closely, you could maybe save 10-20%. Otherwise, save yourself the headache and just have one place do all the work (Radon, Anderson, Hull, etc.). Being smart on purchasing those odds and ends also can be worth it. If you go straight to West Marine for everything, you'll overpay by a lot. If you can time purchases correctly, you'll save. Anyone remember those eBay coupons for 20%+ off? I bought a lot of my Blue Seas electrical components at half off retail. I spent $1700 at Mcmaster Carr for mostly screws and those sort of bits. I didn't buy my polished 316L acorn nuts from them @$2.75/ea (bolt depot was better) but you get an idea on how quickly that little $hit adds up.
     
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    Canyon

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    Sep 22, 2013
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    Colin
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    Less
    A lot depends on initial buy-in. Sounds like you are gong to scrap about everything that is on the boat, leading me to the conclusion you should start new; unless you are getting the boat for cheap. Even then, hull-up builds often exceed the cost of a new build.
     
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    marlyn

    I Post A Lot But I Can't Edit This
  • Dec 18, 2005
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    Take your entire restoration budget (the real one not the number you told your wife) and times that by 5,then throw in a 50% fudge factor,Done.
     
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    sbsurfer

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    Feb 19, 2010
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    29ft Radon - 15ft Hobie Power Skiff
    Full rebuild will easily go north of 100k...quickly. I do have a pilothouse that was cut off of a Don Radon boat a few years back if you're looking for a complete house. It's sitting on top of a container in Jeff Hulls yard right now. All DSG windows and a sliding back door. It's long though....I wanna say 13ft long.
     
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    Ranger805

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    Aug 30, 2016
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    Ventura CA
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    John
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    Radoncraft
    I picked up a Cortez 22 that needed a new engine. The hull was in good structural condition. It has a few cosmetic issues that can be cleaned up someday. The old motor had a Ford 351 for a block and a Volvo DP out drive. When it came to the re power I decided to drop in a 383 mag stroker with a new Bravo 2 outdrive. The I/O was about $10-$15K less than going to an OB conversion. Installed new electronics, disc brakes and leaf springs on the trailer. When the above was complete I had about the same amount into the rebuild as you could find a used Cortez 22 with 500-1000 hours on the motor but I had a new power plant and a trailer was ready to go for a couple of years.
     
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    MYNomad

    Heading South
    Dec 12, 2007
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    Yes
    It depends on so many variables, but unless you are doing the work yourself and ascribe no value to your time, you are better off buying a used boat that has what you want, or even a new boat. After 13 used boats and "upgrade" projects on each, I finally bit the bullet and had my current boat built and commissioned to my specs in a 2+ year process that started 13 years ago. Although there have been upgrades along the way (most notably, I replaced the Furuno NavNet3D VGA-based system with 3 networked cpus each running TZT2Pro system and driving wide screens with HDMI), I am still happy with the boat.
     
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    EdwardAnderson

    Heir Apparent
    Dec 25, 2006
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    www.AndersonCustomBoats.com
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    Ed Anderson
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    Sold.... New one in the works 2019
    I'll just give you the simple answer, it's rarely been wrong. Take a solid look at your project, if you are planning on subbing it out, this especially applies.

    If you are getting rid of more than you are keeping, a new boat exactly the way you want is cheaper.

    If you are making minor changes and keeping everything else, then a used boat and modifications are usually a sound idea.

    Keep in mind that converting a short open cabin into a long one with a dinette ect, is often much much more complicated than it looks.

    Another thing you need to consider is the build quality vs cost. What is okay quality in your driveway often would not fly at $90-100+ an hour from a yard.
     
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    starbright55

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    Dec 4, 2011
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    TH
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    17' Avon Searider
    Full rebuild will easily go north of 100k...quickly.
    If the boat is >22', you'll be easily north of $100k on a rebuild.

    With some help, you can nail a budget pretty close. I had a low number that I knew I wouldn't make due to conscious decisions to upgrade certain items (example - full Furuno versus a reman Garmin). I also had a high number that included a bunch of things that I didn't have to have but could easily be added later. I came in 5% under my high number.

    Talk to someone that done it and kept REAL records and receipts. A real budget can be kept and adhered to. You just need to account to the little things that add up. Ed has built enough boats that he knows what a basic boat is going to cost him in time, labor, materials, and parts (and, of course, he knows what he will sell it for). Most people can't come up with that comprehensive list of parts or are unrealistic in their costs. If you don't have the time and patience, call Ed and just order something!






    Look at Don's price list to get an idea what new will cost.

    Call Ed and he can tell you what a basic 17', 21', 22' can cost (power/running lights but no stainless, electronics, bait tank, etc. ).

    Figure out what new will cost and then if the rebuild can make sense - i.e. you find the right boat where you can keep more that you have to redo (to quote Ed).
     
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    Johnnywood

    Kooks only, no locals
    Jun 2, 2017
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    Johnny
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    Anderson 22
    Here's where the 100k would come from:

    Gelcoat or LP, Decks, Fuel tanks, cabin extension. 35-40k
    Twin Outboards (150s) 30k
    Wiring and Electronics 12k
    Engine Plumbing, Batteries 3k
    Stainless, Rub rail, Pumps, Misc Rigging 10k
    Glass and Windows 2k
    Upholstery 2k
    New Trailer 8k ( Cost usually forgotten)

    Ed is right, Either a new boat or slightly modify an old rig.
     
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    starbright55

    Member
    Dec 4, 2011
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    TH
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    17' Avon Searider
    Here's where the 100k would come from:

    Gelcoat or LP, Decks, Fuel tanks, cabin extension. 35-40k
    Twin Outboards (150s) 30k
    Wiring and Electronics 12k
    Engine Plumbing, Batteries 3k
    Stainless, Rub rail, Pumps, Misc Rigging 10k
    Glass and Windows 2k
    Upholstery 2k
    New Trailer 8k ( Cost usually forgotten)

    Ed is right, Either a new boat or slightly modify an old rig.

    That list is $107k and that doesn't include buying a old hull. If you go this route, you need to get the hull for CHEAP. A cheap hull would be <$10k (in my opinion). Don't buy some running boat (that might be tired) that is halfway decent for $40k or $50k and go full rebuild. Either go super cheap and rebuild, or save your money and find something used that is >90% of what you want.

    Johnny knows whats he's talking about too!
     
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    URN

    Almost A Member
  • Feb 20, 2018
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    URN
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    Whaler 25
    The main cost savings of owning a boat come from doing the work yourself, if you are able.

    You mentioned Radon with an open back pilothouse. What length are you looking at?

    Here's an example of a 19ft Whaler Sentry I rebuilt:
    Hull & Trailer Purchase: $1400
    Shipping from back east to where I did the work: $1700
    Redoing deck lid: 2gal epoxy and 5yds 1708 glass: ~$500
    Paint/nonskid texture: ~$400
    55 gal Fuel tank: (I welded it myself and had local fab shop do cut and bends) $700
    Transom rebuild using Coosa: 2 gal epoxy, coosa, fiberglass, fillers, fairing, $~700
    Used outboard: $6k
    Trailer wheel bearing and brake rebuild: ~$300
    Misc hardware: $150ish

    Best guess total: $12K

    These were the big ticket items. There were a lot of little expenses like sandpaper, gloves, mixing cups, paint rollers and brushes, etc. I didn't keep track of those.
    Then there is the outfitting with fishfinder and kicker motor, etc. We put a Motorguide Xi5 on it too and that has been awesome. The boat's still in the family and is used quite a bit. The $6K outboard was traded in and a new G2 put on it so there is that expense I didn't include.

    This is an example of me doing all the work in getting a boat back on the water, not making major mods to the existing hull outside of repairs.
     
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    K

    knot keely

    Either go super cheap and rebuild, or save your money and find something used that is >90% of what you want.

    For a long time I though I was going to do the rebuild thing, but ended up going this route, and I’m very happy. Took me years to find the right boat, but at least now that I have it, I can use it immediately instead of staring at 1/2 a finished boat for 1-2 years while it gets rebuilt. I’ll still end up throwing a bunch of money at it to get it just how I want it, but at least now I can spread it over several years and use it in the mean time.
     
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    ltran0614

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    May 8, 2013
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    L Train
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    27' Farallon Whaleback & 27' Radon LRB
    Gelcoat or LP, Decks, Fuel tanks, cabin extension. 35-40k

    Depending on the size of the boat and who is doing the work ... that may even be a little light. But agree, good ball park figures there.

    FYI, if you decide to go gelcoat vs LP I'd add 20-30% on top of that. Much more labor intensive process but yes, yields a more 'desirable' finish, depending on your taste.
     
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    flytie

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    Oct 20, 2012
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    GC
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    Out of Office - Custom Invader CC
    After having rebuilt a boat, this is a pretty solid way to go about the planning:

    Buy a six pack
    Get a notepad
    Write everything you think you need on the notepad while drinking beer 1+2
    Go to your computer and build a spreadsheet
    Task in each item with a cost
    Total and drink 2 more beers
    Add 20%
    Drink a beer and let is set in
    Start the BBQ
    Throw your spreadsheet in the BBQ
    Drink your last beer and realize your fate
     
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