Honda 150 nmea2000 fuel gauge?

Discussion in 'Boat Electronics' started by Fin Fan, May 7, 2019.

  1. Fin Fan

    Fin Fan Headless chicken!

    Location:
    Laguna Niguel, Mulege, bcs Mexico
    Name:
    J
    Boat:
    Vaya con Dios
    • Messages:
      (808)
    • Likes Received:
      (179)
    I have a honda 150 with a simrad go7. I want to hookup all the gauging to the simrad and have the fuel read properly.

    Who knows what I have to get to make this happen?

    Jeff
    714 290 0993
     
  2. Mike_I

    Mike_I Well-Known "Member"

    Location:
    Irvine
    Name:
    Mike_I
    Boat:
    Cabo 216 "First Love"
    • Messages:
      (852)
    • Likes Received:
      (320)
    do you already have the nema 2k backbone installed?

     
  3. Fin Fan

    Fin Fan Headless chicken!

    Location:
    Laguna Niguel, Mulege, bcs Mexico
    Name:
    J
    Boat:
    Vaya con Dios
    • Messages:
      (808)
    • Likes Received:
      (179)
    No, I have no nmea attached at all. This is from scratch.
     
  4. Fin Fan

    Fin Fan Headless chicken!

    Location:
    Laguna Niguel, Mulege, bcs Mexico
    Name:
    J
    Boat:
    Vaya con Dios
    • Messages:
      (808)
    • Likes Received:
      (179)
    So, I need the backbone (starter kit), Honda nmea cable and fuel flow sensor?
     
  5. ShadowX

    ShadowX I've posted enough I should edit this section

    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Name:
    Alex
    Boat:
    None
    • Messages:
      (1,354)
    • Likes Received:
      (734)
    You may need to have a NMEA power isolator also. I know on the Yamaha backbones, you need the power isolator or electricity from the NMEA backbone to power the gauges can power back the motor without turning the key switch. You install the power isolator and any connections past the isolator would not have 12V power. That is the side where you connect the NMEA cable to the engine and all the electronic engine gauges. The main purpose of the isolator is to allow transmission of data signals but not allow any power to flow between the backbone on either side of the isolator.

    It looks like the picture below. The yellow connector is the power isolator. Anything to the right of it is powered up. Notice it has a blue cable that connects to another NMEA daisy chain with a big yellow power cable that is hooked up to the power source. Anything on the left side is isolated and usually goes to the engine and any gauges on your dash. Anything on the right of it goes to electronics that you want to be powered up as soon as battery power is applied without flipping the key "on" switch. (ie: GPS sensors, fish finder, etc).

    Honda may be a little different, but I know on the Yamaha engines, you need the power isolator or the power from the backbone would flow back into the engine. The indication is a whining sound from the throttle valve motors and the engine dashboard gauges would turn on. Instead of turning on when the key switch is in the "on" position, the engine would be immediately on as soon as you flip the main battery switch. Depending on the system and how much power is drawn for the gauges, you may need another power cable on the left side. Instead of going to the battery directly, that isolated power side would be connected to the "on" power connection of the key switch. This way, the gauges are powered by the key switch connection instead of power from the engine using the NMEA cable.

    In your case, engine cable on the left side of the power isolator and right side is your fish finder, gps sensor, power cable and the fuel flow sensor. You don't need power on the left side if you don't have a dashboard engine gauge that needs to be powered up. The engine and all the connections need to be hooked up to the perpendicular connector (facing down). The ends of the hub need termination blocks. You need to have one on either side of the backbone. There are lots of diagrams online. The diagram below is similar, except you need to add the power isolator on the left side and then the terminator goes to the end of the power isolator. You can directly connect the engine cable to the perpendicular port of the power isolator if you only have one connection. If you have electronic gauges, then you need to use additional "T" blocks. Just remember, don't connect anything to the ends other than terminating blocks or extension cable for the hub. You only need termination blocks at either end of the hub. You don't need them on unused "T" connections. All the connections to NMEA devices should be on the perpendicular ports only. There are exceptions but not in your situation.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2019
  6. Fin Fan

    Fin Fan Headless chicken!

    Location:
    Laguna Niguel, Mulege, bcs Mexico
    Name:
    J
    Boat:
    Vaya con Dios
    • Messages:
      (808)
    • Likes Received:
      (179)
    I'm getting rid of all the dial gauges and using the electronic gauges on the GO7.
     
  7. ShadowX

    ShadowX I've posted enough I should edit this section

    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Name:
    Alex
    Boat:
    None
    • Messages:
      (1,354)
    • Likes Received:
      (734)
    You can do that, but if the fish finder is down, you will have no gauges at all. Some people prefer to at least have one dedicated gauge for engine RPM, etc as a backup.
     
  8. ShadowX

    ShadowX I've posted enough I should edit this section

    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Name:
    Alex
    Boat:
    None
    • Messages:
      (1,354)
    • Likes Received:
      (734)
    You may also need a NMEA 0183 connection from your GO fish finder to the DSC connection on your radio unless your radio has a NMEA 2K connection or an internal GPS antenna. They are different NMEA systems.
     
  9. ShadowX

    ShadowX I've posted enough I should edit this section

    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Name:
    Alex
    Boat:
    None
    • Messages:
      (1,354)
    • Likes Received:
      (734)
  10. Fin Fan

    Fin Fan Headless chicken!

    Location:
    Laguna Niguel, Mulege, bcs Mexico
    Name:
    J
    Boat:
    Vaya con Dios
    • Messages:
      (808)
    • Likes Received:
      (179)
    What kind of fuel flow meter to read accurate fuel info ie: fuel used, fuel remaining, mpg etc...
     
  11. Fin Fan

    Fin Fan Headless chicken!

    Location:
    Laguna Niguel, Mulege, bcs Mexico
    Name:
    J
    Boat:
    Vaya con Dios
    • Messages:
      (808)
    • Likes Received:
      (179)
    After doing research, I dont think I can hookup my honda to a nmea 2000 network. It's a 2003. I'm checking the serial number tomorrow.

    I heard that Honda didn't do it til 2010.
     
  12. ShadowX

    ShadowX I've posted enough I should edit this section

    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Name:
    Alex
    Boat:
    None
    • Messages:
      (1,354)
    • Likes Received:
      (734)
    Models below and newer have NMEA 2K:
    BF150A BANJ-1304171-Forward, BAPJ -1300650-Forward

    If you are 2003, its most likely you do not have NEMA 2K.

    [​IMG]
     
  13. ShadowX

    ShadowX I've posted enough I should edit this section

    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Name:
    Alex
    Boat:
    None
    • Messages:
      (1,354)
    • Likes Received:
      (734)
    If you go into the Honda site for manuals, the model years before 2010 does not have NMEA interface on page 32 of the manual. Technically the manual was copyright in 2009, but with your engine at 2003, its guaranteed not to have the NMEA 2K interface.

    https://marine.honda.com/support/manuals/models/BF150

    [​IMG]
     
  14. ShadowX

    ShadowX I've posted enough I should edit this section

    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Name:
    Alex
    Boat:
    None
    • Messages:
      (1,354)
    • Likes Received:
      (734)
    The good news is that, like Geico, you just saved yourself a bunch of money.
     
    Fin Fan likes this.
  15. Mike_I

    Mike_I Well-Known "Member"

    Location:
    Irvine
    Name:
    Mike_I
    Boat:
    Cabo 216 "First Love"
    • Messages:
      (852)
    • Likes Received:
      (320)
    If you have any existing nema 0183 devices like a vhf or gps you might as well plan on replacing it since a nema 0183 to 2k adapter runs around $200.


     
  16. Mike_I

    Mike_I Well-Known "Member"

    Location:
    Irvine
    Name:
    Mike_I
    Boat:
    Cabo 216 "First Love"
    • Messages:
      (852)
    • Likes Received:
      (320)
    kind of sucks, but problem solved

     
  17. ShadowX

    ShadowX I've posted enough I should edit this section

    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Name:
    Alex
    Boat:
    None
    • Messages:
      (1,354)
    • Likes Received:
      (734)
    If you only want the fuel flow reading and not engine RPM, etc, you can get a dedicated EP 60R NMEA fuel flow meter from Lowrance. You just install it in series with your fuel line and run the cable to the NMEA backbone to get data. I have the same setup on my older Johnson motor and it reads the fuel flow very accurately. The sensor is around $200 and you still need a NMEA starter kit. The starter kit is around $65, so its not too bad.
     
    Fin Fan likes this.
  18. Ufish

    Ufish Newbie

    Location:
    Brisbane, Australia
    Name:
    Ufish
    Boat:
    6.5m Offshore
    • Messages:
      (4)
    • Likes Received:
      (0)
    The other alternative could be to install the nmea starter and add nmea fuel gauge(s) and combine the EP60. It wont give engine data as prev stated, but you get fuel data on all your electronic MFDs etc and a very accurate fuel usage / remaining data set.
     

Share This Page