Good luck, maybe you should add some cinder blocks to the swim step too since we are all morons over here
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Hole in Fuel Tank 1987 Cabo216
- Thread starter dhowat
- Start date
Maybe you should have moved your batteries forward and increased your bilge pump capacity.
I did not call anyone a moron. I just did not like all the derogatory remarks. But I listened to their comments and discounted most as ignorance of the Cabo's capabilities. But due to many years fishing on this boat all over socal and Baja, I think I've got a handle on its seaworthiness as well as its shortcomings.
Stay tuned for future updates. Already sold the bait tank.
I did not call anyone a moron. I just did not like all the derogatory remarks. But I listened to their comments and discounted most as ignorance of the Cabo's capabilities. But due to many years fishing on this boat all over socal and Baja, I think I've got a handle on its seaworthiness as well as its shortcomings.
Stay tuned for future updates. Already sold the bait tank.
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sure seems like "dhowat" and "halibut howie" are the same person.. and I thought its against the rules to have two accounts for the same person...
look out the shit may hit the fan.....
Trayscool,
For the record IYO why did your Cabo sink?
The Cabo216 was a Beta version of a new boat that came out around 1986. The chief architect died just before its introduction. I had a two hour talk with the other co-owner (a trailer manufacturer) at the 1987 Del Mar Boat Show where he told me the history of manufacturing the Cabo line. I also visited his trailer manufacturing plant where the Cabos were being built about a year later He said he was not doing well financially. To the best of my knowledge no improvements on the Cabo line came after the architects death. All Cabos were made with automotive wiring a cause to a few sinkings. I have been modifying my Cabo for 18 years to address these shortcomings especially since I moor my boat,
Sorry about my snootiness and incorrect assumptions towards you. It was uncalled for and out of my usual character. Just had enough of the ignorant Cabo keyboard fishermen and boat smiths remarks on this board.
HH
For the record IYO why did your Cabo sink?
The Cabo216 was a Beta version of a new boat that came out around 1986. The chief architect died just before its introduction. I had a two hour talk with the other co-owner (a trailer manufacturer) at the 1987 Del Mar Boat Show where he told me the history of manufacturing the Cabo line. I also visited his trailer manufacturing plant where the Cabos were being built about a year later He said he was not doing well financially. To the best of my knowledge no improvements on the Cabo line came after the architects death. All Cabos were made with automotive wiring a cause to a few sinkings. I have been modifying my Cabo for 18 years to address these shortcomings especially since I moor my boat,
Sorry about my snootiness and incorrect assumptions towards you. It was uncalled for and out of my usual character. Just had enough of the ignorant Cabo keyboard fishermen and boat smiths remarks on this board.
HH
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No problem man just want you guys to be safe out there.....we made some mistakes and learned from it....I just picked up another boat and dropped $1000 on safety gear before we hit the water..its no joke
Fishbones
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Howie, I know you have owed your boat for a long time and know it’s limitations. I didn’t realize it was your boat that was posted because of the user name. I was thinking it was someone who just decided to add extra fuel tanks to the stern without knowing the boats limitations.
Fishbones,
I'm sorry about the dual names. I believe I did it awhile back when this name did not work. I grew up with party phones lines not cell phones. I'm trying to delete that name to avoid further confusion.
But to answer your question "How did the wiring cause sinkings ?"
The automotive wiring corrodes in a saltwater environment potentially compromising connections to the bilge pumps and OB motor. I have (2) 1500 gph bilge pumps with float switches and a manual control panel. Starting batteries are in a sealed compartment away from the transom.
IMO the most important mods to improve upon the Cabo's seaworthiness are
(1) rewire the bilge with marine grade wiring
(2) move the batteries forward
(3) increase the bilge pump capacity
I know some guys will freak out but (4) seal the scuppers and (5) allow all water on deck to drain into the bilge. After 5000-6000 hrs on this boat I have never had a wave over the bow or transom but if it happened the bilge would start taking care of that while I start the motor and get out of harms way. That's my Number 1 priority. The scuppers when too many fat people or gear are on the boat's transom allows water to come in through the scuppers (then scuppers below waterline) and starts the flooding process. Moving the transom weight forward helps a bit.
I'm sorry about the dual names. I believe I did it awhile back when this name did not work. I grew up with party phones lines not cell phones. I'm trying to delete that name to avoid further confusion.
But to answer your question "How did the wiring cause sinkings ?"
The automotive wiring corrodes in a saltwater environment potentially compromising connections to the bilge pumps and OB motor. I have (2) 1500 gph bilge pumps with float switches and a manual control panel. Starting batteries are in a sealed compartment away from the transom.
IMO the most important mods to improve upon the Cabo's seaworthiness are
(1) rewire the bilge with marine grade wiring
(2) move the batteries forward
(3) increase the bilge pump capacity
I know some guys will freak out but (4) seal the scuppers and (5) allow all water on deck to drain into the bilge. After 5000-6000 hrs on this boat I have never had a wave over the bow or transom but if it happened the bilge would start taking care of that while I start the motor and get out of harms way. That's my Number 1 priority. The scuppers when too many fat people or gear are on the boat's transom allows water to come in through the scuppers (then scuppers below waterline) and starts the flooding process. Moving the transom weight forward helps a bit.
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flippin sculpin
Member
- Aug 20, 2009
- 44
- 2
- Name
- Rodney
- Boat
- Cabo 216, Bayrunner 16, Pro Line 19, Robalo 19, Four Winns 20, Tremblay 17
Yes, you are all morons here. You people are so fucking stupid you can't even tell that sunk boat isn't/wasn't your 1994 Cabo 216. It's staring you all right in your fucking stupid ass faces. Even this other guy that's had his Cabo 216 for 18 years or whatever can't even see it. Absolutely fucking amazing.
I wonder why everyone here sucks Travis' clit, just kidding as I don't give 1 fuck about that, Travis - winter/off season is right around the corner... I'll see you soon enough.
I ended up removing one of the 24 gal above deck fuel tanks due to space issues. After many trips on my boat to balance out the fuel tank, bait tank and 36vdc trolling motor, it now runs better than ever. However, 24 gals and a 6 gal temp tanks is just not enough gas for my planned adventures. So I'm now looking into replacing the below deck tank with a 65 gal below deck fuel tank. I'll keep the attachments to install an above deck tank or two if needed on a long trip.
I have found a place and person to help me assist him in doing the work. First, I'll need to buy a trailer for the boat to get it to his place to pull the center seating area to get to the tank. I'll keep mooring my boat but store the trailer at his place. I'm guessing under $2000 for the tank project and about the same for a boat trailer. That way I can work on my boat at home for it needs more infrastructure life-cycle improvements.
After exploring options to go flush deck by removing the center seating area, I changed my mind on that as well and will keep it.
With a good trailer I'll be able to explore Baja again and the fishing spots from here to the Florida keys and parts in-between next Fall.
I have found a place and person to help me assist him in doing the work. First, I'll need to buy a trailer for the boat to get it to his place to pull the center seating area to get to the tank. I'll keep mooring my boat but store the trailer at his place. I'm guessing under $2000 for the tank project and about the same for a boat trailer. That way I can work on my boat at home for it needs more infrastructure life-cycle improvements.
After exploring options to go flush deck by removing the center seating area, I changed my mind on that as well and will keep it.
With a good trailer I'll be able to explore Baja again and the fishing spots from here to the Florida keys and parts in-between next Fall.
Mine looks the same and it's the Super Hatch which has no parts available and was discontinued in 87. You can look them up here.
Lewmar Hatch Identifier
It's been a few months since WCMS discovered a few holes in my fuel tank while replacing my 2004 F150. They would not run the new motor on the old fuel tank so had them plumb in a above deck tank with fuel filter. I added a 2nd fuel tank above deck (30 gal total).
After trying out the new fuel tanks on many fishing trips, I've decided to repair my tank in place and save many $$$$ having someone do it. I moor my boat, have no trailer and have a small yard, so me doing the work is out.
Today I started repairing the only holes I have found, after inspecting all the welded fittings on my fuel tank. I cleaned the one welded fitting with three holes around it to bare metal the best I could. Then I replied JB weld (fast cure in 6 min) as it was turning into putty-like substance around the fitting, plugging the holes.
Next I'll use JB Weld (slow cure) to cover the fitting. If ok, then do the rest of the fittings around the fuel tank. After that clean up the top of the fuel tank (that I can get to) to bare metal. Then apply cold tar epoxy (2-part) to the top of the tank including the fittings.
I believe this will give me a few more years out of the tank.
After trying out the new fuel tanks on many fishing trips, I've decided to repair my tank in place and save many $$$$ having someone do it. I moor my boat, have no trailer and have a small yard, so me doing the work is out.
Today I started repairing the only holes I have found, after inspecting all the welded fittings on my fuel tank. I cleaned the one welded fitting with three holes around it to bare metal the best I could. Then I replied JB weld (fast cure in 6 min) as it was turning into putty-like substance around the fitting, plugging the holes.
Next I'll use JB Weld (slow cure) to cover the fitting. If ok, then do the rest of the fittings around the fuel tank. After that clean up the top of the fuel tank (that I can get to) to bare metal. Then apply cold tar epoxy (2-part) to the top of the tank including the fittings.
I believe this will give me a few more years out of the tank.
Fishbones
Your wife thinks about ME
- Nov 7, 2005
- 1,008,410
- 1,619
- 58
- Name
- Rich
- Boat
- One Off 28' Custom Built Skipjack (SOUTHWESTERN) & 18' Sylvan (Short Runs)
If the top of the tank looks like that, I wonder what the bottom and sides are like....
I think you should at least pressure test after the repairs to see if there are any other leaks. Or you could fill it to the tits and put a candle in the bilge.
