Hey electronic nerds... foot pedal question

skrilla

allirks
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Len
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First of all thank you Voodoo for the note pad you threw in on my order. Got to put it to good use.
20200727_105858.jpg


I broke my pedal again. Usually it's a break in the power wire from running it over with my rolling chair but the last few times it's the solid wire on this white thing. Tried soldering it but apparently it doesn't hold worth a damn.

I'm clueless with electronics. What is this white thing called in my foot pedal?
20200727_160221.jpg


It has small print on it. I wrote it on my new Voodoo Rods note pad. And where does one find this part?
20200727_161553.jpg
 
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finsane

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My guess is a diode or a resistor, try looking at YouTube for help soldering. It should take, might have to wrap the wire around the leg, apply flux then solder.
If it’s a resistor, it’ll have color bands around it indicating exactly what the values are.
 
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mrfishcado

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Looks like a resistor. You can also just use a crimp on connector if you needed to.
 
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mike mitchell

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You tube video on fixing a sewing machine foot pedal. I would post it but ...… Its is called a rheostat.
 
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mykiss

(Oncorhynchus) mykiss...
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The 'white thing' is likely a glass fuse (rated 2A); the wire that's open appears to have been loose and came in contact with opposite potential and burned open. Get rid of the wire ties used to try and keep the cable in the foot pedal and install a cord grip (https://www.zoro.com/raco-nm-cable-connector-2-screws) or even better would be to use a strain relief sized correctly for the cable entering the foot pedal. Once the cable is secure, soldering the wire should be straight forward. The fuse is probably still good since it appears no to have been part of the 'short circuit'.
 
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ShadowX

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If this is an AC foot pedal used to control a sewing machine motor, get rid of that junk. Replace it with an electronic foot pedal. It would save you a lot of grief in the future. The old school rheostat versions are nothing but trouble. You get much finer control with the electronic version too.

It basically uses a TRIAC to regulate the voltage very similar to light bulb dimmer. Its a lot more reliable and produces a lot less heat. Everything is solid state except for the variable resistor. If you have one of the old school pedals, it can get hot enough to sizzle with just a rheostat.
pedal.jpg

Amazon product
 
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sealskinner

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Apr 24, 2005
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I have an old school foot pedal that came with my Clemons.
You're welcome to it Len.
First of all thank you Voodoo for the note pad you threw in on my order. Got to put it to good use.
View attachment 1176265

I broke my pedal again. Usually it's a break in the power wire from running it over with my rolling chair but the last few times it's the solid wire on this white thing. Tried soldering it but apparently it doesn't hold worth a damn.

I'm clueless with electronics. What is this white thing called in my foot pedal?
View attachment 1176266

It has small print on it. I wrote it on my new Voodoo Rods note pad. And where does one find this part?
View attachment 1176268
 
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Orca

シャチ, 鯱
Aug 16, 2003
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that is a thermister they are crimped on the power wire. you can crimp it with a crimp from your crimping kit. or you can just by pass it and connect your power wire directly to the foot pedal . Don't have the crimp? stop by the house and I'll help you.
 
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cmepen

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I love you Don!!! You are the best!!! I was about to shout out to Len to give you a shot, as I knew you would know how to remedy the issue!!! Mentors are the best, Don you qualify as the best of the best in this reguard!!! Thank you for all you do and add to the rod building comunity!!!
 
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ShadowX

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Has anyone switched over to the electronic pedal?
I have and its the best thing I ever did. The stock rheostat pedals are a joke. You have a lot more finer control at the low RPM range and it is a lot more efficient with the electronic pedals. The excess power is not dissipated as heat.
 
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skrilla

allirks
May 26, 2006
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Wow thank you all. Puts me in the right direction for a future pedal "overhaul" project.

The 'white thing' is likely a glass fuse (rated 2A); the wire that's open appears to have been loose and came in contact with opposite potential and burned open. Get rid of the wire ties used to try and keep the cable in the foot pedal and install a cord grip (https://www.zoro.com/raco-nm-cable-connector-2-screws) or even better would be to use a strain relief sized correctly for the cable entering the foot pedal. Once the cable is secure, soldering the wire should be straight forward. The fuse is probably still good since it appears no to have been part of the 'short circuit'.
It didn't short. It broke at the crimp when I ran over it/ kicked it/ got the power wire stuck... etc. Have now soldered thrice!

Zip ties are temporary. They sorta stop the cord from pulling out. Also keeps my insulation in place as you might see here in my band aid fix. LOL

20200727_165129.jpg


If this is an AC foot pedal used to control a sewing machine motor, get rid of that junk. Replace it with an electronic foot pedal. It would save you a lot of grief in the future. The old school rheostat versions are nothing but trouble. You get much finer control with the electronic version too.

It basically uses a TRIAC to regulate the voltage very similar to light bulb dimmer. Its a lot more reliable and produces a lot less heat. Everything is solid state except for the variable resistor. If you have one of the old school pedals, it can get hot enough to sizzle with just a rheostat.
View attachment 1176334
Amazon product
Mine sizzled when I first started using it (used unit). After breaking the cord and soldering it the first time it stopped so I assumed it was heating up because of that.

If it's corded it's trouble. Someone needs to make a wireless pedal with charging port. Or a wheelless rolling chair!

that is a thermister they are crimped on the power wire. you can crimp it with a crimp from your crimping kit. or you can just by pass it and connect your power wire directly to the foot pedal . Don't have the crimp? stop by the house and I'll help you.
What is the purpose of the thermister? Does removing it up the chances of the pedal catching fire? If I bypass it will EPA knock on my door?
 
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Orca

シャチ, 鯱
Aug 16, 2003
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Wow thank you all. Puts me in the right direction for a future pedal "overhaul" project.



It didn't short. It broke at the crimp when I ran over it/ kicked it/ got the power wire stuck... etc. Have now soldered thrice!

Zip ties are temporary. They sorta stop the cord from pulling out. Also keeps my insulation in place as you might see here in my band aid fix. LOL

View attachment 1176470



Mine sizzled when I first started using it (used unit). After breaking the cord and soldering it the first time it stopped so I assumed it was heating up because if that.

If it's corded it's trouble. Someone needs to make a wireless pedal with charging port. Or a wheelless rolling chair!



What is the purpose of the thermister? Does removing it up the chances of the pedal catching fire? If I bypass it will EPA knock on my door?
The thermister is a self resetting circuit breaker rated at 145C (293F) and 2 amps it is to prevent you from burning up your mtr. You already have speed control on your wrapper so the foot pedal is just a momentary switch. Knowing the way you wrap (balls to the wall) you should have no problem.
 

ShadowX

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Wow thank you all. Puts me in the right direction for a future pedal "overhaul" project.



It didn't short. It broke at the crimp when I ran over it/ kicked it/ got the power wire stuck... etc. Have now soldered thrice!

Zip ties are temporary. They sorta stop the cord from pulling out. Also keeps my insulation in place as you might see here in my band aid fix. LOL

View attachment 1176470



Mine sizzled when I first started using it (used unit). After breaking the cord and soldering it the first time it stopped so I assumed it was heating up because if that.

If it's corded it's trouble. Someone needs to make a wireless pedal with charging port. Or a wheelless rolling chair!



What is the purpose of the thermister? Does removing it up the chances of the pedal catching fire? If I bypass it will EPA knock on my door?
It sizzles because you are operating at lower RPM. When you are at full RPM, most of the power is sent to the motor. At lower speeds, the power that is not used to drive the motor is dumped as heat in the rheostat or a stack of carbon discs compressed together. Since at slow speeds, only a small part of the power goes to the motor, most of it is dumped as heat. It is not a good way to control the speed of a motor, but that is the cheapest and only way back in the days.

On the electronic foot pedals, they have a TRIAC device. What it does is shut off part of the the power load based on the position of the potentiometer. By adjusting the pulse width of the signal, you can have much finer RPM control. The pulses are at around 60 times per second so the motor runs very smoothly. The circuit is also very efficient since the extra power is not dissipated as heat. Basically all modern light dimmers work in this way.

A lot of people with older sewing machines have been switching to electronic pedals. I had same problem with my foot pedal control on my line winder and ever since I swapped out the control to electronic, it has a lot more power at lower speeds and you can make fine adjustments to the speed. When your foot pedal is that badly damaged, its time to replace it. The best part is you don't have to mess with the inside or solder parts. You just hook up wires to motor and you are good to go. You really don't want to mess with the inside of the pedal if its AC. Mistakes can be fatal.

1595932061039.png
 
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swami 805

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Mar 9, 2016
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Where can I get an electronic pedal? I have a 25 year old CPW wrapper, never had a problem with the pedal but it gets pretty warm at times.
 

mykiss

(Oncorhynchus) mykiss...
Jul 6, 2014
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Wallace Mathes
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'95 Proline 210 Sportsman
It didn't short. It broke at the crimp when I ran over it/ kicked it/ got the power wire stuck... etc. Have now soldered thrice!

Zip ties are temporary. They sorta stop the cord from pulling out. Also keeps my insulation in place as you might see here in my band aid fix. LOL


20200727_165129.jpg



ShadowX said:
If this is an AC foot pedal used to control a sewing machine motor, get rid of that junk. Replace it with an electronic foot pedal. It would save you a lot of grief in the future. The old school rheostat versions are nothing but trouble. You get much finer control with the electronic version too.

It basically uses a TRIAC to regulate the voltage very similar to light bulb dimmer. Its a lot more reliable and produces a lot less heat. Everything is solid state except for the variable resistor. If you have one of the old school pedals, it can get hot enough to sizzle with just a rheostat.
View attachment 1176334
Very colorful, 49 cents to never suffer the cord coming out of the switch enclosure again... From the picture, it appeared the wire-ends were rounded and it had opened due to heat. What ShadowX said for $24.95.
 

skrilla

allirks
May 26, 2006
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Len
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More great information, thanks fellas.

Another thought crossed my mind. Sometimes we use the motor under heavier resistance. For example, sanding grips or installing cord. Will the thermister delete then allow the pedal to heat up past 145°C in these situations? Or is it a redundant safety feature alongside the speed control?
 

mykiss

(Oncorhynchus) mykiss...
Jul 6, 2014
55
24
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Wallace Mathes
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'95 Proline 210 Sportsman
The thermistor (short for thermal resistor) acts as overcurrent protection by increasing its' resistance dramatically when its' temperature rises above a design value (in this case when current rises above 2 amps). This has the effect of not allowing more than 2A to flow in the circuit (as is the case when a fuse opens) with the attraction of allowing current to flow again once current is brought below design value. If the motor is stalled as might be the case for the examples you posed, the thermistor will perform its' task in protecting the circuit until the stall condition is no longer exists. Does this answer your question?
 
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