Help with putting together a basic CRIMPER KIT (100-200lb mono)

geebee

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ANTI CHAFING SPRINGS Vs PLASTIC TUBING Vs SHRINK TUBING Vs NON-SHRINK TUBE Vs PTFE TEFLON PIPE HOSE Vs PVC NON SHRINK TUBING - what chafing technique and material is best for cow tuna

can someone give me recommendations for a bare bones CRIMPER KIT for MONO and FLUOROCARBON leaders for 200lb class bluefin (100-200 lb mono) on flatfall jigs in San Diego LA inshore offshore and islands

first i read one of the best hand crimper tools is JINKAI CRIMPER Swedger SC-3C at $79 amazon (crimper only)

i will be crimping less than 10 leaders a year, so i'm not sure i want to spend that much unless it is actually that much better for the few leaders i will be doing

however, this morning i saw an IZORLINE CRIMPER at just under $30 in a local shop - with a good brand, i'm thinking i can do my own crimps and get them the way i want

i saw the crimp kits but they look like a lot of extras i don't need

if the IZOR CRIMPER is ok, then pls recommend:
  1. what brand and types of premium aluminum sleeves sizes i should buy (for crimping 100-200 lb mono)
  2. what brand and types of premium anti-chafing springs sizes i should buy
any tips for building my own flat fall rig leaders

any brands or types of crimpers, sleeves, springs i should avoid, lessons learned

appreciated...
 
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surfgoose

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Like you, I only make up a small amount of heavy leaders each year, maybe two dozen at most. I have used a Hi-Seas crimping tool for over thirty years and it still works fine, and didn't cost over forty dollars at the time. It is a cup-opposing cup crimper, meaning that there are three circles of increasing size in the head when it is compressed. The diameters of the circles are 0.5-1.0mm, 1.5-2.0mm, and 2.2mm. I buy twin-tube copper sleeves (I hate aluminum sleeves) from whoever is offering a deal on Amazon at the time that I need replacements. I get by just fine with three sizes: 1.0mm for 20 to 60#mono, 1.3mm for 80 to 130#mono, and 1.5mm for 130 to 200#mono. I still have the 2.2mm sleeves that I bought over 20 years ago when for a brief period I was rigging for really big fish with 400# line, but those days are well behind me.

I don't use chafing springs any more, I prefer plastic tubes. The plastic air hose lines from the pet store work just fine.

If you are rigging up a flat-fall type lure, or heavy yo-yo lure, then using a quality solid ring and a quality split ring are important, and a quality swivel at the top of the leader. I like Owner products for the above items.

How you rig depends upon what your potential target fish requires. Obviously if you are trolling for wahoo you will want wire instead of mono as a leader. And if you are trolling or targeting large fish, it doesn't hurt to use two crimps about an eighth of an inch apart for insurance.

As you get more familiar with crimping you will find more uses for it. I make up live bait leaders in advance, three feet of different size fluorocarbon to appropriate hooks, and crimp the line to the ring of the hook. Much stealthier than a knot.
 

geebee

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Wow great I need to digest all that info, thanks...
 

FishAcquisition

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I think most are good, they aren’t that technical a piece of equipment. Anyone in the BFT hunt should get a crimper. The right sleeves, springs etc are important for what you are doing. Good Tackle shops can set you up. I just did these Flatfall set ups tonight.

9F39BE9C-1C86-430B-B664-5833E78A859E.jpeg
 
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geebee

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?.. I buy twin-tube copper sleeves (I hate aluminum sleeves)...
Why copper Vs aluminum crimping sleeves?

PS: And then i discovered brass sleeves, plastic, teflon, PTFE tubing...


a BlacktipH youtube how to crimp heavy line video tutorial said
"always" use copper sleeves for steel leader material
"always" use aluminum sleeves for mono leader material

PS: i've always been leery of writers using "always" and "never" - just show me the rules so i know what to break...

This BlacktipH Crimping Tips & Techniques video recommends brass over both copper and aluminum sleeves (explained). This video is also extremely informative on all points:

 
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surfgoose

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geebee -- Do you see the crimps in the picture that Dan posted above? Small, dark, almost invisible? Copper. The green chafe springs are more noticeable. Now if he had just used plastic tubes like are protecting the hook points . . .

There are a whole lot of ways to do this. Your personality will play a big role in what you end up with, what you are confident about putting into the water. Try something and adjust, repeat. Watch what is getting bit, ask yourself if it was random or an idea to be copied.

Be aware that the rigging of a boat's gear will be much, much heavier than is necessary because it must withstand a huge amount of wear and tear. For myself, I only get one fish on a leader. EVER. It comes aboard, the lure gets taken out of the mouth, and I re-rig with a new leader and check the hooks, and sometimes replace them. The boat gear gets re-used and re-used, so it must be heavier. My flat-fall leaders are 130# fluorocarbon, most people are using heavier mono. It probably only makes a difference to me, not the fish, but part of the pleasure of fishing is doing things the way that makes you feel most confident.
 

geebee

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green chafe springs are more noticeable. Now if he had just used plastic tubes
after thinking about it - i would think silver would be most noticeable for the specular highlight glare associated with silver-colored bare metal

more reading up - some people recommended clear plastic air hose like used on aquarium air pumps (but the inner diameter ID was way limited in my search)

further - more people were talking about using teflon and PVC non shrink tubing for chafing material, i will check that out next time i'm in the electronics store (and see if the ID comes in any closer sizes than the plastic tubing)

maybe using the spring-style chafing inside of teflon tubing would be the best of both methods combined
 
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Cubeye

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you mean this stuff (in place of the chafe springs) what diameter do you use?

View attachment 960121
Teflon tubing works. As does PVC non shrink tubing. Electronic supply stores usually carry them. Black or clear. The PVC usually come is wire gauge sizes. I.e. 12, 14 16 gauge, but you can find other sizes if you look.
 

geebee

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CRIMP SLEEVE CHART FOR MONO* & FLUOROCARBON Fishing Line
copper / aluminum / brass

ID/mm / Mono

0.8 / 40-60lb
1.2 / 80-100lb
1.5 / 125-150lb
1.7 / 200lb
2.0 / 250-300lb
2.3 / 400lb plus
2.8 / 500lb plus

*one point is all 200lb mono do not have the same diameter, for example, 200lb Jinkai mono has 1.33mm compared to my chart above which notes 200lb is 1.7mm - so pay attention to packaging details
 
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geebee

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went with JINKAI SC-3C for perceived quality (of course the price ballooned to $190 already and still not done putting my bare bones kit together)...
GGB_2716jinkaiKIT.jpg

GGB_2719CU.jpg
 

Derby

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I bought this crimp kit. Already had Izor crimpers. Add some chafe protection for $10 and then all you need is leader material, swivels and solid rings. I also had some ringed grommets laying around.

Amazon product
Did some testing in the yard with a 200lb scale. Works like a charm.

Cheap and easy.
 
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geebee

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after battling a cow tuna - has anyone ever torn their rigs apart and looked to inspect any damage caused by chaffing spring

below (my first crimp) 200lb Jinkai mono (1.33mm OD) stainless steel SS Junkai chaffing spring (1.4mm ID) - i pulled like hell to test the hardware

photo below shows how the spring reformed a bit (i pulled the loop up a little snug before i crimped it)

i'm trying to figure HOW the spring may cut groove (or sink) into the mono to weaken the line

or if the ring slips in between the spring coils (regardless) -- next i'm going to cut the loop, remove the spring and inspect the rings pressure point in the mono...

ChafSpringPull.jpg
 
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Derby

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It still protects mono from jig eye dragging back and forth along the loop... chaffing.

In a straight pull, the mono will hold up....its 200lb.
 

geebee

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here is the deformity photo in the 200-lb mono caused by my few seconds of pulling on it by hand

i'm not so sure springs are the best method (and still interested in anyone who's pulled apart their loops to inspect the wear caused by bare springs and 200-250lb cow tuna stressing the rig out)

GGB_2730damage.jpg
 
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geebee

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It still protects mono from jig eye dragging back and forth along the loop... chaffing. In a straight pull, the mono will hold up....its 200lb.
are you saying the main purpose of chaffing item is to protect the mono from dragging back and forth against the jig ring

have you actually tested your straight-pull theory on a scale (that the line was not weakened at the pressure point after a fighting a cow tuna)
 

Derby

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Chafing is caused by friction. One thing rubbing against another. Heat or wear will cause the surface to become rough and start to diminish the strength of the loop.

A straight pull on the loop is not rubbing.

When fish pulls the loop goes side to side and fore and aft a bunch of times. This friction is chafing.

The protection you are adding is called a chafe spring.
 

geebee

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...A straight pull on the loop is not rubbing...
yes however pulling digs the spring (wire coils) into the mono leader and stresses and deforms it as evidenced in my photo where i only pulled a couple times for a few seconds

i can only try to imagine what a 250lb bluefin would do to my rig over an hour of going every which way on 30lbs of drag set at strike

but springs must work (better than bare mono/floro) for 200lb class tuna because they're popular...

i'm still trying to figure it out if anyone has fished springs pro or con
 
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surfgoose

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I used springs back in the 70's and 80's when I was spending a lot of time playing with billfish. I learned about plastic tubing from another angler, and to my mind it just is a cleaner way to protect the line, and have been doing ever since. Often I salvage the little lengths of tubing that are on the hooks of lures that I purchase. But plastic tubing in small diameters is not hard to buy.

I suggest that you try various methods, and over time you will decide which works best for you. It's like learning and using a half-dozen excellent knots. Eventually you will find one or two that your eyes and fingers just like to tie, and can tie perfectly, every time. And the fish won't care.

Don't overthink things. Your gear is going to work just fine. If you snag a monster he is going to win, and that is going to happen every now and then. It's just God smiling and keeping you humble. But 99% of the time you have a terrific chance to bring the fish to the boat if you just do things reasonably well. Why do you think that new fishermen with rental gear win so many jackpots? They listen to the crew and keep winding, and the gear holds up very well.
 

sickcat

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here is the deformity photo in the 200-lb mono caused by my few seconds of pulling on it by hand

i'm not so sure springs are the best method (and still interested in anyone who's pulled apart their loops to inspect the wear caused by bare springs and 200-250lb cow tuna stressing the rig out)

View attachment 962054
I have never needed to dissect chafe guards to that extent but looking at the pic makes me think that no matter what you use the line is going to be the softest thing there so it is going to deform under pressure. The marks from the metal spring wouldn't concern me too much.

Consider what would happen with no chafe guard. All that pressure would be on a much smaller area and deeper into the diameter of the line.

Nowadays I use plastic springs or hose.
 

geebee

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I have never needed to dissect chafe guards to that extent ... Nowadays I use plastic springs or hose.
thanks, it's really no extent, i just pulled on my first crimp and cut it to see what's going on with the spring digging into the mono that jumped out at me

but since i started this post - members have mentioned plastic, rubber, shrink, nonshrink, teflon, PTFE tubing, PVC non shrink tubing as other effective choices

i'm not certain what PLASTIC hose or tubing is (like an aquarium air hose? that doesn't seem very tough) - though the non-metal tubing like plastic, rubber, teflon, PTFE all seem much less limited in ID inner diameter - there will likely be a loose fit around the mono

this OD 4mm ID 2mm PTFE TEFLON Tubing i just ordered off eBay looks promising (20 feet for $11.40 delivered) i'm just wondering how tuff it is as a preferred chafing material

TeflonTubing.jpg


PS: anyone who thought to drive to Fry's for tubing - don't waste your time (like i did)
 
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Day0ne

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Catchall Tackle has everything you need including the clear tubing. Great place for crimping gear, etc.

catchalltackle.com/
 

surfgoose

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I'm sure that the teflon tubing would be tough enough. I wonder at the flexibility. The whole idea is to provide a bit of extra protection to already tough line, but without making a bulky lump in the line. I will be interested to hear what you think about the teflon when you try it.
 
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sickcat

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Never used PTFE for chafe guard but I am a plastics fabricator and I can tell you it is pretty tough. I agree with Gary questioning how flexible it is. It is a thermoplastic so you can heat it and bend it if that helps. Please let us now how it works for you.
 
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