Help with putting together a basic CRIMPER KIT (100-200lb mono)

Discussion in 'Fishing Chit Chat' started by geebee, Aug 31, 2018.

  1. geebee

    geebee My Member is Well-Known

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    ANTI CHAFING SPRINGS Vs PLASTIC TUBING Vs SHRINK TUBING Vs NON-SHRINK TUBE Vs PTFE TEFLON PIPE HOSE Vs PVC NON SHRINK TUBING - what chafing technique and material is best for cow tuna

    can someone give me recommendations for a bare bones CRIMPER KIT for MONO and FLUOROCARBON leaders for 200lb class bluefin (100-200 lb mono) on flatfall jigs in San Diego LA inshore offshore and islands

    first i read one of the best hand crimper tools is JINKAI CRIMPER Swedger SC-3C at $79 amazon (crimper only)

    i will be crimping less than 10 leaders a year, so i'm not sure i want to spend that much unless it is actually that much better for the few leaders i will be doing

    however, this morning i saw an IZORLINE CRIMPER at just under $30 in a local shop - with a good brand, i'm thinking i can do my own crimps and get them the way i want

    i saw the crimp kits but they look like a lot of extras i don't need

    if the IZOR CRIMPER is ok, then pls recommend:
    1. what brand and types of premium aluminum sleeves sizes i should buy (for crimping 100-200 lb mono)
    2. what brand and types of premium anti-chafing springs sizes i should buy
    any tips for building my own flat fall rig leaders

    any brands or types of crimpers, sleeves, springs i should avoid, lessons learned

    appreciated...
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2018
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  2. surfgoose

    surfgoose active geezer

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    Like you, I only make up a small amount of heavy leaders each year, maybe two dozen at most. I have used a Hi-Seas crimping tool for over thirty years and it still works fine, and didn't cost over forty dollars at the time. It is a cup-opposing cup crimper, meaning that there are three circles of increasing size in the head when it is compressed. The diameters of the circles are 0.5-1.0mm, 1.5-2.0mm, and 2.2mm. I buy twin-tube copper sleeves (I hate aluminum sleeves) from whoever is offering a deal on Amazon at the time that I need replacements. I get by just fine with three sizes: 1.0mm for 20 to 60#mono, 1.3mm for 80 to 130#mono, and 1.5mm for 130 to 200#mono. I still have the 2.2mm sleeves that I bought over 20 years ago when for a brief period I was rigging for really big fish with 400# line, but those days are well behind me.

    I don't use chafing springs any more, I prefer plastic tubes. The plastic air hose lines from the pet store work just fine.

    If you are rigging up a flat-fall type lure, or heavy yo-yo lure, then using a quality solid ring and a quality split ring are important, and a quality swivel at the top of the leader. I like Owner products for the above items.

    How you rig depends upon what your potential target fish requires. Obviously if you are trolling for wahoo you will want wire instead of mono as a leader. And if you are trolling or targeting large fish, it doesn't hurt to use two crimps about an eighth of an inch apart for insurance.

    As you get more familiar with crimping you will find more uses for it. I make up live bait leaders in advance, three feet of different size fluorocarbon to appropriate hooks, and crimp the line to the ring of the hook. Much stealthier than a knot.
     
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  3. geebee

    geebee My Member is Well-Known

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    Wow great I need to digest all that info, thanks...
     
  4. FishAcquisition

    FishAcquisition I've posted enough I should edit this section

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    I think most are good, they aren’t that technical a piece of equipment. Anyone in the BFT hunt should get a crimper. The right sleeves, springs etc are important for what you are doing. Good Tackle shops can set you up. I just did these Flatfall set ups tonight.

    9F39BE9C-1C86-430B-B664-5833E78A859E.jpeg
     
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  5. FishAcquisition

    FishAcquisition I've posted enough I should edit this section

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  6. geebee

    geebee My Member is Well-Known

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    Why copper Vs aluminum crimping sleeves?

    PS: And then i discovered brass sleeves, plastic, teflon, PTFE tubing...


    a BlacktipH youtube how to crimp heavy line video tutorial said
    "always" use copper sleeves for steel leader material
    "always" use aluminum sleeves for mono leader material

    PS: i've always been leery of writers using "always" and "never" - just show me the rules so i know what to break...

    This BlacktipH Crimping Tips & Techniques video recommends brass over both copper and aluminum sleeves (explained). This video is also extremely informative on all points:

     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2018
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  7. surfgoose

    surfgoose active geezer

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    geebee -- Do you see the crimps in the picture that Dan posted above? Small, dark, almost invisible? Copper. The green chafe springs are more noticeable. Now if he had just used plastic tubes like are protecting the hook points . . .

    There are a whole lot of ways to do this. Your personality will play a big role in what you end up with, what you are confident about putting into the water. Try something and adjust, repeat. Watch what is getting bit, ask yourself if it was random or an idea to be copied.

    Be aware that the rigging of a boat's gear will be much, much heavier than is necessary because it must withstand a huge amount of wear and tear. For myself, I only get one fish on a leader. EVER. It comes aboard, the lure gets taken out of the mouth, and I re-rig with a new leader and check the hooks, and sometimes replace them. The boat gear gets re-used and re-used, so it must be heavier. My flat-fall leaders are 130# fluorocarbon, most people are using heavier mono. It probably only makes a difference to me, not the fish, but part of the pleasure of fishing is doing things the way that makes you feel most confident.
     
  8. geebee

    geebee My Member is Well-Known

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    after thinking about it - i would think silver would be most noticeable for the specular highlight glare associated with silver-colored bare metal

    more reading up - some people recommended clear plastic air hose like used on aquarium air pumps (but the inner diameter ID was way limited in my search)

    further - more people were talking about using teflon and PVC non shrink tubing for chafing material, i will check that out next time i'm in the electronics store (and see if the ID comes in any closer sizes than the plastic tubing)

    maybe using the spring-style chafing inside of teflon tubing would be the best of both methods combined
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2018
  9. Cubeye

    Cubeye I've posted enough I should edit this section

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    Teflon tubing works. As does PVC non shrink tubing. Electronic supply stores usually carry them. Black or clear. The PVC usually come is wire gauge sizes. I.e. 12, 14 16 gauge, but you can find other sizes if you look.
     
  10. geebee

    geebee My Member is Well-Known

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    CRIMP SLEEVE CHART FOR MONO* & FLUOROCARBON Fishing Line
    copper / aluminum / brass

    ID/mm / Mono

    0.8 / 40-60lb
    1.2 / 80-100lb
    1.5 / 125-150lb
    1.7 / 200lb
    2.0 / 250-300lb
    2.3 / 400lb plus
    2.8 / 500lb plus

    *one point is all 200lb mono do not have the same diameter, for example, 200lb Jinkai mono has 1.33mm compared to my chart above which notes 200lb is 1.7mm - so pay attention to packaging details
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2018
  11. geebee

    geebee My Member is Well-Known

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    went with JINKAI SC-3C for perceived quality (of course the price ballooned to $190 already and still not done putting my bare bones kit together)...
    GGB_2716jinkaiKIT.jpg
    GGB_2719CU.jpg
     
  12. Derby

    Derby My "Member" is Well Known.

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    I bought this crimp kit. Already had Izor crimpers. Add some chafe protection for $10 and then all you need is leader material, swivels and solid rings. I also had some ringed grommets laying around.



    Did some testing in the yard with a 200lb scale. Works like a charm.

    Cheap and easy.
     
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  13. geebee

    geebee My Member is Well-Known

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    after battling a cow tuna - has anyone ever torn their rigs apart and looked to inspect any damage caused by chaffing spring

    below (my first crimp) 200lb Jinkai mono (1.33mm OD) stainless steel SS Junkai chaffing spring (1.4mm ID) - i pulled like hell to test the hardware

    photo below shows how the spring reformed a bit (i pulled the loop up a little snug before i crimped it)

    i'm trying to figure HOW the spring may cut groove (or sink) into the mono to weaken the line

    or if the ring slips in between the spring coils (regardless) -- next i'm going to cut the loop, remove the spring and inspect the rings pressure point in the mono...

    ChafSpringPull.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2018
  14. Derby

    Derby My "Member" is Well Known.

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    It still protects mono from jig eye dragging back and forth along the loop... chaffing.

    In a straight pull, the mono will hold up....its 200lb.
     
  15. geebee

    geebee My Member is Well-Known

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    here is the deformity photo in the 200-lb mono caused by my few seconds of pulling on it by hand

    i'm not so sure springs are the best method (and still interested in anyone who's pulled apart their loops to inspect the wear caused by bare springs and 200-250lb cow tuna stressing the rig out)

    GGB_2730damage.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2018
  16. geebee

    geebee My Member is Well-Known

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    are you saying the main purpose of chaffing item is to protect the mono from dragging back and forth against the jig ring

    have you actually tested your straight-pull theory on a scale (that the line was not weakened at the pressure point after a fighting a cow tuna)
     
  17. Derby

    Derby My "Member" is Well Known.

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    Chafing is caused by friction. One thing rubbing against another. Heat or wear will cause the surface to become rough and start to diminish the strength of the loop.

    A straight pull on the loop is not rubbing.

    When fish pulls the loop goes side to side and fore and aft a bunch of times. This friction is chafing.

    The protection you are adding is called a chafe spring.
     
  18. geebee

    geebee My Member is Well-Known

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    yes however pulling digs the spring (wire coils) into the mono leader and stresses and deforms it as evidenced in my photo where i only pulled a couple times for a few seconds

    i can only try to imagine what a 250lb bluefin would do to my rig over an hour of going every which way on 30lbs of drag set at strike

    but springs must work (better than bare mono/floro) for 200lb class tuna because they're popular...

    i'm still trying to figure it out if anyone has fished springs pro or con
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2018
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  19. surfgoose

    surfgoose active geezer

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    I used springs back in the 70's and 80's when I was spending a lot of time playing with billfish. I learned about plastic tubing from another angler, and to my mind it just is a cleaner way to protect the line, and have been doing ever since. Often I salvage the little lengths of tubing that are on the hooks of lures that I purchase. But plastic tubing in small diameters is not hard to buy.

    I suggest that you try various methods, and over time you will decide which works best for you. It's like learning and using a half-dozen excellent knots. Eventually you will find one or two that your eyes and fingers just like to tie, and can tie perfectly, every time. And the fish won't care.

    Don't overthink things. Your gear is going to work just fine. If you snag a monster he is going to win, and that is going to happen every now and then. It's just God smiling and keeping you humble. But 99% of the time you have a terrific chance to bring the fish to the boat if you just do things reasonably well. Why do you think that new fishermen with rental gear win so many jackpots? They listen to the crew and keep winding, and the gear holds up very well.
     
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  20. sickcat

    sickcat Silverback

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    I have never needed to dissect chafe guards to that extent but looking at the pic makes me think that no matter what you use the line is going to be the softest thing there so it is going to deform under pressure. The marks from the metal spring wouldn't concern me too much.

    Consider what would happen with no chafe guard. All that pressure would be on a much smaller area and deeper into the diameter of the line.

    Nowadays I use plastic springs or hose.
     

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