Help with a travel spinning rod base please!! Will pay $50 for a solution that works!!

JoeZeiter

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Sep 22, 2014
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Not sure if this is the correct site to post at, but I'm hoping someone here can help....
I own a bunch of travel spinning rods, about 3 yrs ago I was in panama and the base to my Temple Reef Black Devil 100 cracked on a big fish (must not have had the top inserted all the way) pics below. Anyway, I had already owned the rod for years at that point, figured there was no warranty, and kind of assumed someone somewhere would have had the opposite problem and broke their tip, and I'd be able to buy the base from them. I spent 3 years checking sites and asking around every few months about a base for this rod.... no luck. I contacted temple reef a week ago, to see if they had any spares, or had another base that the rod could sit in that was the same size, they said, sorry but the rod is no longer produced and they had no spares.
SO, my question is, does anyone know if there is another base i could buy that would fit this rod? I have absolutely no idea the diameter of the rod base, but i know it has to be an exact fit and i have nothing precise enough to give an exact measurement- not sure if there is a way to find the specs on the rod. OR, can someone build me a base and ill pay them for it??
I think this thing cost me between $500-600, so if someone can give me a solution THAT WORKS- I'll pay $50 (to the first person), or if someone can build it, I'll pay for that also.
Thanks!

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FAT CAT

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Your terminology is not clear to me, but your photo looks to be the butt end of a rod. If that's the case, then just slap a butt cap on it and go fishing.
 
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watersdeep

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    the twisted ducker
    Hose clamp the shit out of it. you can send my $50 to
    friends of ROLLO.
     
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    Hector Garcia

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    I need a ride.
    Remove grip. Epoxy a "sleeve" over the damaged portion... most rod builders should have a pile of scrap blanks to make these out of. Install a new grip properly hiding all evidence of repairs. Keep your fifty this one's on da house.


    This is the best solution. If you want to try it at home, cut off the grip. Buy a sleeve, or ferrule that will slip over the broken part and close it. Epoxy everything correctly. Apply new grip. As they said, a rod builder should have plenty of scrap blanks around to do it.
     
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    K. D.

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    This is the best solution. If you want to try it at home, cut off the grip. Buy a sleeve, or ferrule that will slip over the broken part and close it. Epoxy everything correctly. Apply new grip. As they said, a rod builder should have plenty of scrap blanks around to do it.
    I don't think that would work.
     
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    K. D.

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    Ive done it once before. Not saying its the best solution, but it will work.

    Im not sure what part you think isnt going to work. Maybe i need to explain it better?
    The female ferrule needs to have a lot of hoop strength for it to resist spliting out like that in that location, and I suspect that the origional was quite thick with flags to reinforcingn the ferule. was fairly thick. I don't think it will be sucessful to take part of an old rod to make a sleve from it. That area is going to be subjected to a lot of strain. I think you will need to do it different.
     
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    SouthBayKiller

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    The female ferrule needs to have a lot of hoop strength for it to resist spliting out like that in that location, and I suspect that the origional was quite thick with flags to reinforcingn the ferule. was fairly thick. I don't think it will be sucessful to take part of an old rod to make a sleve from it. That area is going to be subjected to a lot of strain. I think you will need to do it different.
    Wouldn’t a properly fitted sleeve over that provide the hoop strength?
     
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    ShadowX

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    Does the crack close up when you squeeze it or does it stay split open at all times? If it doesn't close, you may need refit a new section. On the other hand, if the split closes, you can use the repair method shown below.

    An alternative to consider is to use carbon fiber wrap with epoxy around the damaged area similar to what is shown below. Its actually a very strong wrap since the carbon fiber is continuous and it overlays the layer underneath. The strength depends on the thickness of the repair and the number of overlapping wraps. If the repair was made correctly, it would be even stronger than the original blank.

    You may need to clamp the ends together with epoxy in the crack first so it stays close and then do the wrap. Try to clean up any epoxy squeezeout on the inside of the blank where the top section slides into. This will prevent problems with the rod section sliding in later. Let it cure completely with the clamp in place. This will help hold the split sections together before you do the repair with the carbon fiber wrap.

    The other option is use a section of another rod blank and slide over the split ends and epoxy that in place. Just make sure the repair section is thick enough that you don't the same problem in the future. The weave pattern on the blank is similar to your original blank. It will never be as as strong as the wrap method if the thickness is the same. The circular overlapping spiral wrap carbon fiber pattern is far superior in terms of strength. To make up for the difference in strength, the repair blank cross section needs to the same thickness or thicker than your original blank.

    You can re-foam over the repair or leave it as a battle scar.

    If you don't have the experience to do any of these repairs, its best to go to a professional rod builder and have them do the repairs. You can buy the carbon fiber sheets and epoxy on Amazon.

    See the wrapping at the 12:00 mark of the video:



    Other videos:
     
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    JoeZeiter

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    The female ferrule needs to have a lot of hoop strength for it to resist spliting out like that in that location, and I suspect that the origional was quite thick with flags to reinforcingn the ferule. was fairly thick. I don't think it will be sucessful to take part of an old rod to make a sleve from it. That area is going to be subjected to a lot of strain. I think you will need to do it different.
    agree 100%, best suggestion i had so far, was to just cut off the upper 3" of the base that include the split. The female end still has plenty of depth to take the 2" of the male end that go into it
     
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    K. D.

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    agree 100%, best suggestion i had so far, was to just cut off the upper 3" of the base that include the split. The female end still has plenty of depth to take the 2" of the male end that go into it
    Since the butt end is split and it is quite thick, I think that split went a fair ways down the blank merely because that portion of the rod is quite stiff and won't bend much. Also I believe it may have traveled past any flag they put on the end to stop the end from splitting like many rod manufacturers do to reinforce the Female ferrules). If it was me, I would remove the grip in the way, and reinforce with layers of super braid solidified with epoxy, then do a search for a Piece of titanium tube (I have a bunch, but not quite big enough dia. that I got from Lamiglas that was left over from the Titanium series rods) and epoxy on top then cover all with grip material which should cover and hide tube except the end. Maybe that could be covered/hidden something like a winding check. Where the new grip meets the old grip, put an accent strip.
     
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    stonefly

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    I've made that same repair but to a trout rod not something intended to hold back a tuna.

    In principle it should work but what concerns me is that the crack doesn't close.
    It could be the crack is biting down on a bit of the foam grip and not closing for that reason,
    either way you need to strip back the foam to see what's what.

    Anyway I used braid line to wrap several courses and coated with epoxy after each course.
    After the first coat of epoxy/braid I was careful to scrape out the epoxy that squeezed through the crack to the inside before it quite set.

    I would think with a little pre planning you could make the repair hardly noticeable.

    If the damage is more than just a simple split I got nuthin.
     
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    JoeZeiter

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    in case anyone was wondering, best idea went to styxchaser who had a really simple fix:
    If the fore grip is long enough, a good rod wrapper may be able to cut back the handle to eliminate the crack and sand down the blank to fit.

    Rod would be a little shorter but it would be better than nothing.


    I sent him 50 which he is giving to a local food bank so good for him.
     
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    K. D.

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    in case anyone was wondering, best idea went to styxchaser who had a really simple fix:
    If the fore grip is long enough, a good rod wrapper may be able to cut back the handle to eliminate the crack and sand down the blank to fit.

    Rod would be a little shorter but it would be better than nothing.


    I sent him 50 which he is giving to a local food bank so good for him.
    Interesting. I thought the Butt section had a taper thus the ID would increase as you travel toward the BUTT, Maybe I am wrong.
     
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    Highwayman

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    I am a very amateur rod builder but it seems a section of a rod blank inserted, epoxied and clamped would be a solution similar to adding length to a blank?
     
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