Help selecting a hollow core line

Discussion in 'San Diego Long Range fishing Reports' started by Longshot_Scott, Mar 31, 2013.

  1. Longshot_Scott

    Longshot_Scott Newbie

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    Have been doing quite a bit of research since getting back from the Fred Hall show about hollow core lines, including the testing done by Paulus.

    Problem is in selecting a line brand... Several lines seem good overall, but each has potential drawbacks of course too. Some are notably larger diameter/some are smaller diameter; some have a super high breaking strengths / some have a lower absolute breaking strength. The most troubling is that some (reportedly Jerry Brown and Tuff Line Guides Choice are the worst supposed ones here) have extremely big lot-to-lot variances... something that makes me very, very uncomfortable since I'll be spooling all of these up at the same time and from they same place, so if one got a bad/weak batch of JB or Tuff Line, they all likely could.

    The net effect of which I that I've just about researched myself into a state of confusion over which line would be best for cow tuna fishing and could definitely use some input from you guys, especially on the 130 - but help on either or both the 130 and 100 would be appreciated.

    As a reminder, the reels on order (they are waiting for my line requests actually on 3 out of 4 of them) are:
    1 Mak 20 SEaII
    2 Mak 30 SEaIIs
    1 Mak 50 SEaII (waiting for new model, preordered at the show)

    The 20 of course will be my finesse rig for when the fish are shy. 100# rig

    The two 30s. Go-to rigs and backup to the 50 or 20. Will be loaded with probably 350-400 or so yards of 100# hollow with the remainder consisting of 400 yards 130# hollow and 100 feet of Soft Steel mono.

    The 50: Heavy rig for big baits. 130-135 hollow with a 100% Soft Steel mono section, then a loop for changing out Black Water top shots.

    Thanks for any input, gang!
    LongShot_Scott
     
  2. dh515

    dh515 I've posted enough I should edit this section

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    I'm not opposed to experimenting with new stuff but I've got JB hollow on every tuna reel I own. I've never had a fish break off the spectra other than one time where I had a Boobie bird damaged section and snapped off a few before I realized what had happened. For my main rigs, I'd go JB and not think twice about it. It's proven over the years on lots of big fish.

    I am going to try some Tasline 70 hollow (supposedly breaks at 112) next trip on my ATD 12 for more capacity but that's more of a specialty stealth kind of rig.
     
  3. yft1979

    yft1979 Well-Known "Member"

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    I keep hearing about smaller reels lacking i n capacity... Well I just finished up loading my new 20se with 800 yds of 100lb jb hollow. I say go with jb.
     
  4. Derfsondeck

    Derfsondeck DUMBASS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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    Yeah Jb has worked for me.Only time it blew up was on me winding it on the spool to loose then getting cow bit spectra buried and exploded.Sounded like a 30/06
     
  5. nick17yz

    nick17yz TUNA TOKER

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    cant go wrong with Jerry Brown.
     
  6. titan05

    titan05 Pelagic Terminator

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    I have a question for anybody....why do you guys load a reel with 400 yds of 100 pound and then 300-400 yds of 130 pound.

    Why not just load a reel up with say 750 to 800 yds of 100 pound and maybe 50 yds of 130.

    I always see different capacities that are split up and am just curious

    Thanks
     
  7. Fishybuzz

    Fishybuzz fishybuzz

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    X2......25 yards of 130# is even better.....and if I could I would load it with straight 100# but 130# leaders are a pain to insert some times..on my 100# rig I run straight 100# spectra.
     
  8. dh515

    dh515 I've posted enough I should edit this section

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    One reason would be cost on some of the higher capacity reels. At one point, I had 1100 yards of JB 100 hollow on my Mak 50. (I changed it on the advice on long rangers with much more experience than me over concerns of that much line digging into itself on the spool). At 24 cents a yard, that 1100 yards was $264 clams. JB 130 is cheaper than 100 and obviously thicker. So say you could get 700 yards on the same 50 at 16 cents a yard, that $112. A combo of both gives more capacity and costs less.
     
  9. Sactotuna

    Sactotuna Well-Known "Member"

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    Because we so very much love to over think things and imagine benefits. I spool straight 100 or 130 all the way to the end. Spectra is so horrible in abrasion resistance, bumping up serves no purpose. (A 130# topshot made with 130# spectra splices easily into 100# spectra.)
     
  10. migelito

    migelito Member

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    X3....Thats how I spool up both of my Mak-20s
    Dont think of the 20 as a finess outfit I use them most of time during the day unless I am fishing big baits.
    Though I can think of one reason to have more 130# spooled over 100#. That would be at Clarion where the Boobies are blind and seem to run into your 100# spectra on purpose.
     
  11. ifish42na

    ifish42na No Bad Days

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    some (reportedly Jerry Brown and Tuff Line Guides Choice are the worst supposed ones here) have extremely big lot-to-lot variances.

    This is patently false. Someone has served up poor reporting in an attempt to sell you something else.
     
  12. 2amguns

    2amguns Newbie

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    Question......................which of the S.D. Tackle shops sell J.D. spectra?

    NOT the shops at the Landing.....I want a Mom and Pop business off site that will be cheaper. Thank you.
     
  13. bluewaterbum

    bluewaterbum Well-Known "Member"

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    I think that came from the Paulus website

     
  14. JohnTFT

    JohnTFT Insomniac

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    This is one of the best posts I have ever read in any fishing forum any where on any given topic.

    We over think and over analyze constantly. Then we get these imagined benefits. I wish I would have wrote that.

    The new obsession is to send every sample of every piece of Spectra to a guy on the other side of the world who is developing his own brand of spectra to test. And wow it all tests differently!

    Does that mean we cant catch fish on the line? Does it mean one brand is better than another? Does one line have better abrasion resistance than the other? Are diameters so different that it will negatively impact our fishing?

    What does it mean - in the grand scheme of things not a whole lot. I used JB for years than for many reasons I stopped. I now use so many different brands it doesnt really matter to me what the spool says. As long as its hollow and I can get the capacity I want I use it. I have most of my reels spooled with Western Filament. I have others with Power Pro Hollow and some more with Diamond braid. I have caught fish on all of it. For me it has come down to one important factor. The line has to be white.

    There are answers to all of those questions. But, they are so on the margins of additional benefits of using one line over another it just doesnt matter.
    If JB has been working for you stay with it. If you dont like JB or Jerry in general than use Western (Its JB anyway). Point is it doesnt matter. Its all good.

    Pick a line that fits into your budget have someone install it professionally or get a friend with a line winder.

    In the end just go fishing. Fill your reels put some mono on it and go catch a fish.

    Its really that simple.
     
  15. Rodless_Jim

    Rodless_Jim I've posted enough I should edit this section

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    I put straight 100# TUF-Line on my Mak 20s because I had enough space for all the line I wanted on the reel. I put 130 on top of 100 on my Mak 50s because that was the way I needed to do it to get 800 yards on the reels. Given a choice, I would rather use either straight 100 or straight 130.
     
  16. Fishybuzz

    Fishybuzz fishybuzz

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    lol......IMO by definition Long Range fishing is a obsession, so this over thinking or "obsessing" gives us obsessive people something to do when we are not actually fishing for giant YFT...:rofl:




     
  17. Longshot_Scott

    Longshot_Scott Newbie

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    LOL - *exactly* my thought. If I didn't overanalyze this trip and think obsessively about the details, waiting until December would be darn near impossible - like watching paint dry! :)

    2 other questions to throw in the mix:
    1) 80# 16-strand JB Hollow vs 100# 12-strand; some folks have claimed the 80# is more nick resistant plus stronger. Is this anecdotal or really true on average? If true, why do I seem to find few who are running that as opposed to say 100# JB hollow as backing to their 130# JB (or other) hollow?

    2) Color: I know you want something visible to all to help avoid or correct tangles. But one person mentioned splicing in a reasonably short section of blue after the main white section and before any mono or flouro leader. Does the color make a difference with regards to fishability/lack of spooking fish, etc.? I am planning to run my first 100 in yellow so I know I'm nearly spooled, but what color is best to run just before the leader? Does it matter?

    Thanks,
    Scott
     
  18. dh515

    dh515 I've posted enough I should edit this section

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    I tried that two trips ago, coloring the last 30' or so with a blue permanent marking pen. Didn't seem to make any difference. You probably already know but any dye on the spectra, including this trick makes it a lot harder to splice.
     
  19. qtrracer

    qtrracer Member

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    I had 500 yards of 100lb JB hollow on a TacII 20(Cal low geared and blueprinted) that would hold at least 600 yards of that 100, so I pulled the 100 off it and put it on my Mak 30. The Mak 30 then took an additional 350 yards of 130lb JB 130 to fill up. The TacII 20 got filled with 100lb JB hollow with no splicing, 600 yards total. I was just trying to maximize capacity, and money already spent, while keeping things as simple as possible.
     
  20. wahoodad

    wahoodad Yaddah X3

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    What is a TacII20?
     

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