Guys here that have cut Uluas...

AWilliams

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May 18, 2009
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First off, an OC ph ulua and esm ulua are not some rare mythical creature that if you cut it, it'll lose all it's powers. These are made everyday. If you're only going comment that cutting an ulua is sacreligious...I don't want to hear it...lol

I just bought 2 ulua blanks and will build both of these.

So, getting that out of the way, for those of you that have cut ONLY the butt on a ph ulua 93h to 9'3-ish...it seems it does make the action more parabolic? I taped off the blank to mimic reel position at 1" intervals and it seems as I went from reel position at 9'7 to 9'3 the bend got deeper..IE: more parabolic. The 9'7 position felt like a stiffer tip.

Same with the esm/ssr ulua. It comes factory at 10'2. I am going to cut it to between 9'3 and 9'6. What's the popular cut for this? Looking for 40# rod w/ nice tip..not heavier. The esm being composite the feeling was the same as I taped off reel positions at different lengths.

For reference I like to throw 7x lite, 112, caivo 5/7, JRI, stinger, 3,4,5,7, baby 5x etc...

Thanks for any thoughts or insight. These will be my first dive into Uluas.
 
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May 8, 2020
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First off, an OC ph ulua and esm ulua are not some rare mythical creature that if you cut it, it'll lose all it's powers. These are made everyday. If you're only going comment that cutting an ulua is sacreligious...I don't want to hear it...lol
Well you picked up my blank and felt it out..
I just bought 2 ulua blanks and will build both of these.

So, getting that out of the way, for those of you that have cut ONLY the butt on a ph ulua 93h to 9'3-ish...it seems it does make the action more parabolic? I taped off the blank to mimic reel position at 1" intervals and it seems as I went from reel position at 9'7 to 9'3 the bend got deeper..IE: more parabolic. The 9'7 position felt like a stiffer tip.

Same with the esm/ssr ulua. It comes factory at 10'2. I am going to cut it to between 9'3 and 9'6. What's the popular cut for this? Looking for 40# rod w/ nice tip..not heavier. The esm being composite the feeling was the same as I taped off reel positions at different lengths.

For reference I like to throw 7x lite, 112, caivo 5/7, JRI, stinger, 3,4,5,7, baby 5x etc...

Thanks for any thoughts or insight. These will be my first dive into Uluas.
Well you felt out my PH93H. I’m having that one wrapped out right now and its honestly always been a Stinger- JRI 4 Type of rod in how it loads up and fishes 40lb.

I think if your aim is 40lb and lighter jigs... maybe take 4 off the butt and trim one inch of the tip. I say just one inch off the tip too make the tip a bit stronger, I’ve heard of them breaking from @ironmike.

I definitely feel like my PH93H is more parabolic then a full length ulua, I think it due to where the rod wants to bend since a certain section of the rod is no longer there is dissipate pressure.
 
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AWilliams

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May 18, 2009
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Thanks bro...yeah I pulled on yours but don't remember if you said where it was cut or how long it was. I just wanted to confirm I was feeling it bend deeper into the blank. I don't have the most cooperative wife when it comes to sitting on the couch and holding the tip while I switch back and forth pulling on the rod...she doesn't hold it right and I can't really pull like I can with my other fisherman buddies.

btw...thanks for the tip on the tip. I'll probably cut 1" off and get rid of that funky pencil point.
 
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AWilliams

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Cut the tip to a #10 and what ever you want off the ass so your happy.
Fuck all these assholes that tell you keep it full length for resale.
It’s a tool, so cut it to make it work the way you want it.

ooops only my 2 cents
Hi Alin

Yup,,,not a flipper. You want an investment, get a 401k. Hi Parry:hali_olutta::cheers:
 
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titan05

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Cut the tip to a #10 and what ever you want off the ass so your happy.
Fuck all these assholes that tell you keep it full length for resale.
It’s a tool, so cut it to make it work the way you want it.

ooops only my 2 cents
Hi Alin

Wow.... I have kept plenty of Uluas full length ( 9' 3 1/4" and 10' ) and also cut my share,even though I had no clue about cutting a Ulua and I ruined more than one before I found the sweet spot for what I was looking to do, but cutting a Pinhead or SSR is no big deal as they will NEVER be considered mythical and for the record....just because it says Ulua doesn't make it one....cut it up and if you don't like what you did just keep cutting and make it a 6480 ;)

ooops only my 2 cents
Hi Parry

PS,,,Alin.....you have plenty of Jig Sticks that you like.....spec the tip and butt of the ones you like and mark the blanks and see if that works for you...10/64th to 11/64th tip doesn't seem like much but can make a huge difference......take your time and I found 1/2" cuts got me dialed in for the load, bend and lift I wanted.....different weight glass,,,,light weight (20-40- pinhead) and different type of glass, Hexel Honeycomb ( 20-50 -SSR ) will affect all those things so my numbers off the tip and butt would not help
there is way more but that might help
 
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AWilliams

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When you measure the tip with the micrometer and you looking for tip size do you measure at the actual tip or at the base of the tip where the ferrule bottom is? Shouldn't be much of a difference but it might be depending on how fast the taper is.

That is why I prefaced this post with that first paragraph. I'm not a collector but there are a lot of guys that are collectors who just want a conversation piece when they get on the boat whether it's their all CeX collection or all pinhead collection or all white tiger collection I'm not that guy.

Hi Jim... :p
 
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titan05

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Alin,
I learned from a Master Jig Stick Builder and there were a few things he told me when it came to tips, guides placement and cutting;
1) the ferrule for the tip does NOT bend as it is metal so the working portion of the blank is where the ferrule ends....I had the same question
2) Double foot guides do change the bend and even the stiffness of the blank compared to single foot guides along with minor adjustment placement of guides.....my favorite rods I fish that are single foot are one of my Uluas, 6470 and 970
3) Depending on the blank ( Glass vs Composite )....glass is easier to figure because it's all the same material....composite was different because of the transition between glass and graphite when it came time to cut either end.
Believe it or not the brand made a difference as some composite rods had more glass
(Seeker - softer tip ) compared to Calstar ( Faster action, higher transition ).

Have fun....Jig Sticks can become very personal much like a baseball glove.....even though they may look the same they are all different but if you find one or build one you like it becomes you
 
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AWilliams

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It's interesting that you bring up the guides now in relation to the double foot affecting the bend under load. There's a builder here (Hai) that's been experimenting with the single foot heavy duty bass style guides and he seems to like them so I may hit him up and do something a little different on my esm blank than I'm going to build for 40#. I really enjoy having an array of jig sticks because they all do the same thing but they all do it differently. It's like a pair of shoes you got tennis shoes, work shoes, steel toe, platform, high heels, wedge, flip flop...whatever it is.
 
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swami 805

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I've been using single foot on my personal rods for awhile. I've noticed a difference in distance for sure... Just the running guides.
 
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titan05

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It's interesting that you bring up the guides now in relation to the double foot affecting the bend under load. There's a builder here (Hai) that's been experimenting with the single foot heavy duty bass style guides and he seems to like them so I may hit him up and do something a little different on my esm blank than I'm going to build for 40#. I really enjoy having an array of jig sticks because they all do the same thing but they all do it differently. It's like a pair of shoes you got tennis shoes, work shoes, steel toe, platform, high heels, wedge, flip flop...whatever it is.
Hai used pictures of one of my single foot uluas ( Greenie )to do some of his builds. ;)

1607905354410.png
 
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ahidog

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Can’t help you Alan my ulua was cut when I was very young and I don’t remember it. It works fine though!
 
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Nick_L

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Apr 19, 2016
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First off, an OC ph ulua and esm ulua are not some rare mythical creature that if you cut it, it'll lose all it's powers. These are made everyday. If you're only going comment that cutting an ulua is sacreligious...I don't want to hear it...lol

I just bought 2 ulua blanks and will build both of these.

So, getting that out of the way, for those of you that have cut ONLY the butt on a ph ulua 93h to 9'3-ish...it seems it does make the action more parabolic? I taped off the blank to mimic reel position at 1" intervals and it seems as I went from reel position at 9'7 to 9'3 the bend got deeper..IE: more parabolic. The 9'7 position felt like a stiffer tip.

Same with the esm/ssr ulua. It comes factory at 10'2. I am going to cut it to between 9'3 and 9'6. What's the popular cut for this? Looking for 40# rod w/ nice tip..not heavier. The esm being composite the feeling was the same as I taped off reel positions at different lengths.

For reference I like to throw 7x lite, 112, caivo 5/7, JRI, stinger, 3,4,5,7, baby 5x etc...

Thanks for any thoughts or insight. These will be my first dive into Uluas.

Depending on the taper and where the most dramatic bend is, cutting from the tip could either slow the action, or make it faster. In general cutting from the bottom will always make it slower, as you bring the most dramatic bend closer to the middle of the blank in relation to its entire length. When you cut from the tip two things happen.

1) Where ever the most dramatic bend may move closer to the tip relative to the entire length of the blank. This might make it faster

2) Cutting from the tip you may actually remove the softest part of the blank where the most dramatic bend is, leaving the rest of the blank with a parabolic bend with no dramatic fast spots. This might make it slower.

In general I prefer to wrap my jigsticks slower. Fishing a jig in motion and winding through the bite, I want the stick to absorb the energy when bit in the most consistent way possible, just personal preference.

Fast rods with soft tips and strong backbones I prefer to fish slow moving baits, (jighead and squid, creature fishing for green bass etc). Something where I can feel the bite and where I want to take the slack out and set the hook against a stationary fish, the backbone is nice.

Most of the ones I've built for myself or friends have all been cut based on tip size, not "inches from the top/bottom." Inches can vary across blanks, and the tip size will vary across blanks, and the most consistent way for me to reproduce any perfectly cut blank is to remember the tip size I cut it to. Some guys I build for like a size 14-15+ (fishing 50#+). Some guys like a size 12-14 (fishing 40#). Some guys like a size 10-12 (fishing 30-40#).

Usually I set the tip size for the power and action I want, then take the rest off the bottom to get the length I want. A good way is to start by cutting a little, pull on it and see. If you want more power take a little more and pull on it. When you get to what you want, cut the rest off the bottom to get the length you want and write that shit down.

Anyway, sorry for the long winded reply. Best of luck
Nick
 
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Tyler Doan

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It's ironic that you're doing this as prior to looking at this post I'm working on the same project but on a Seeker Glass 540. I cut at the butt section about 34 inches from the bottom and added a ferrell. So far after pulling on it multiple times the action hasn't changed. I'm going to finish wrapping it pretty soon and probably make a most soon about it. Hopefully it turns out well and for you as well.
 
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