It's done mostly so that you have a smooth transition from your base wrap up from the foot. Also something to watch for is this, before you start take a straight edge & lay it on the bottom of the guide foot where it will meet the base wrap & make sure it is flat on both sides of the guide, you may have to file it just a bit or bent it slightly,I've had to do this a couple of times.Thanks for the tip. I haven't repaired my broken guide yet but will sooner or later.
Grinding guides is one choice. A perfect transition allows for a smoother wrap. However, most modern guides are coated, colored, and many have gone through some complex proprietary chemical or physical vapor deposition processes to enhance their durability and corrosion resistance. Grinding the surface coating and base metal from the guides' feet just to make them a little easier to wrap is only one choice. A Sharpee marker is not a suitable replacement for a baked powder or titanium vapor deposition coating. In all cases, I prefer to leave the coatings intact. Boat rods die young. I quit grinding guides about 30 years ago.It's done mostly so that you have a smooth transition from your base wrap up from the foot. Also something to watch for is this, before you start take a straight edge & lay it on the bottom of the guide foot where it will meet the base wrap & make sure it is flat on both sides of the guide, you may have to file it just a bit or bent it slightly,I've had to do this a couple of times.
Gary, when doing your double over wraps, do you start from the bottom and work your way up two times and tie off twice or wrap up and work your way back down?With some careful wrapping, always uphill, toward the center of the guide in both directions (downhill wraps slip too much), followed by some meticulous burnishing, any minor flaw that might remain at the tip of the foot always seems to disappear when it's coated with the 2-part finish. The method works for single as well as double overwraps. At its worst, with poor quality guide feet, a tip may show through the finish and the rod might not win a beauty contest. However, wraps over intact guides that have not been ground resist corrosion better, last longer, and may even win the beauty contest a few years down the road.
Thank you for the detailed response. Very informativeWith deference to the question and in detail, albeit the wrong thread, unless juxtaposition is acceptable. The best of everyman's rod bench from OC to the Valley hasn't changed that much since my drive went from floppy to hard... in the 80s.
Spin underwraps uphill tip to grip, just snug, not too tight, a whipping to support glue and pad the blank. Light to just-snug. Tight wraps strangle a blank.
Spin first overwrap, guide tip to ring, always toward the ring in the middle again, just snug, and tie. Thread tensions are variable when adding a guide, moving up around a pointed tip of the foot, and most notable if you use your finger tips. Loose to climb the tip, snug to grip the tip and tight to absorb a little downhill burnishing. Leave the gap of chrome at the tip and return later. Spin a few more at just-snug, spin to the foot's heel, finish and tie. This layer is when finished in total, just-snug tension, never tight, since whippings are additive and powerful. Pause. Burnish lightly to fill the gap at the tip of each foot, if there is one. Leave small spaces evenly divided if needed to fill the gap. The 2d overwrap is much easier to install since both wraps on both feet going uphill exactly now track the layer of thread below, following or filling it and minimizing any blems. Light wrap tension on the looser side for the 2d overwrap, so it doesn't cut in or wreck work below. 2d overwrap doesn't whip guides. It provides protection from nicks and rubs, acting as glue sponge in the building process that produces a durable final outer skin.
Single chemistry void-free epoxy monobloc guide-to-blank bedding from single-soak glue construction requires that thread layers have no intermediate coatings, no sealers, nor CP, nor anything else to inhibit the flow and contact of the initial dosing of epoxy from completely filling all the thread interstices, and the all-important void found under every guide's feet with a custom bedding of flexible, chewy, bubble-free polymer. In an ideal world that single app of resin does all the work, and supports every little un-ground, un-twisted, and ill-fitting, guide foot with its own custom unibody shoe.
I tried to take a pic of the 10 roller rods from the infinity rack, all wrapped since the first post in this thread, and the photos showed nothing. They're all black, or skeletonized black, on honey glass, or black glass, and the pics I took show nothing. Nothing. Looking at the rods with my eyes, it's just black, some smooth, and some finishes left with D-width ribbing. Black is just too easy to use, too economical when fishing without fanfare, and minimizing if you're gear heavy, less seems a lot more dressed in black. Black is also easy to lose or give away; it goes with everything. From layout to chemistry, the road to "tuna boat tough" doesn't have to be anything other than the existential connection of a collection of different things, both rigid and flexible, and that bonding is made greater by unity of chemistry, durable utility of the simple blackness, and clear focus in both mind and finger by the home constructor in the complete absence of color.
On thread turnarounds, uphill and down or vice versa - counter spun, crossing with every wrap, complicate the otherwise easy path. Always no. Tao of go is loving the best easiest best.
Keep fingers clean with no soapy fats or oils to contaminate threads, use boraxo often.