Flat plate, diamond plate, or Thermo-lite for Floor?

yelloweye

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May 21, 2009
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I've got some gas tank repairs to do on my Alumaweld. While the floor is out, I'm debating the best replacement for the old plywood floor. What do folks like and why? What coatings? My boat is used in the salt almost exclusively. Thanks for any and all help!
 
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Cohoho

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May 19, 2010
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COHOHO - 23 ft Wooldridge Super Sport Offshore - SOLD
Diamond plate is what I did on my Wooldridge... By the time I priced out marine plywood, glue, and vinyl - the Aluminum was similar price... One thing I had to go back and redo, was putting a thin piece of rubber along all stringers and cross members then re-bolt down...

IMG_0124.JPG IMG_0170.JPG IMG_0266.JPG
 
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Spokaloo

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I build my own
You'll get a ton of opinions on this one. I would use the Fiber-tech Tuff Clad material for your application, plus Kiwigrip on it. It's supple, grippy, and doesn't tear your ass up when you fall on it. It comes in several colors so it isn't too bright in the boat. I get the Fiber-tech material for a pretty legit price, but it is factory seconds.

Some of the foam cored materials are nice, but pricey.

Diamond place isn't my favorite because it's bright, hot/cold with the weather, and destructive to gear and flesh when you fall on it.

There's a newer product out that I can't find the damn link to. Supposedly similar crush/tension/compression/rigidity to plywood, similar screw retention, but all inorganic plastics and reinforcing fibers. If it's critical, I can dig up one of my Pro BoatBuilders and find the ad.

E
 
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Cohoho

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COHOHO - 23 ft Wooldridge Super Sport Offshore - SOLD
After one season in the salt the shine is gone and it is not slippery at all and haven't broken anything because of it???.
 
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goatram

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    That sled pictured has structure running for and aft. Your boat will need similar structure if you use Aluminum. if not you will have flex/oil canning that will lead to cracks. Diamond plate will run you a premium. Thicker is better.You will also need to add drains and get hatch lids bent up on a Box Brake not a Sheet Metal Brake. If you do go to Aluminum you can go to a self bailing deck.

    If you just replace the wood Use Marine Plywood or the plywood composite that Eric is talking about, it can be done in a weekend or two. Cut and fit and then either put your vinyl back, Paint as stated, or get the it rhino lined. just talk to the painter to figure how thick the product will be and make sure all the holes are drilled. then use Silka Flex to seal the joints.
     
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    pfam

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    Have a look at this stuff... http://coosacomposites.com can be used to replace the wood in transoms so it's structural. No rot, cuts like wood and light. Kinda spendy..... There is a place in Tacoma, Revchem Composites, where I get all my epoxies, fiberglass etc. They carry it. And I 2nd the Kiwi Grip. Easy to put down and pretty durable.
     
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    yelloweye

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    Goat, there are too many damn pages on your thread and I got tired of looking! I believe you used flat plate. Did you put down any kind of coating like a truck liner?
     
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    POPEYE-SCOTT

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    POPEYE-SCOTT

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    You'll get a ton of opinions on this one. I would use the Fiber-tech Tuff Clad material for your application, plus Kiwigrip on it. It's supple, grippy, and doesn't tear your ass up when you fall on it. It comes in several colors so it isn't too bright in the boat. I get the Fiber-tech material for a pretty legit price, but it is factory seconds.

    Some of the foam cored materials are nice, but pricey.

    Diamond place isn't my favorite because it's bright, hot/cold with the weather, and destructive to gear and flesh when you fall on it.

    There's a newer product out that I can't find the damn link to. Supposedly similar crush/tension/compression/rigidity to plywood, similar screw retention, but all inorganic plastics and reinforcing fibers. If it's critical, I can dig up one of my Pro BoatBuilders and find the ad.

    E


    Tuna blood is a great deck plate coolant system... warming too for that matter.:cheers:
     
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    goatram

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  • Apr 3, 2008
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    Goat, there are too many damn pages on your thread and I got tired of looking! I believe you used flat plate. Did you put down any kind of coating like a truck liner?
    I used Kiwi grip and i also used .190" flat plate in 5052 on my current boat. UseT Bar extrusion welded down as floor stingers 12" on center. The floors can still be removed and the bilge inspected and cleaned. C channel for your deck opening supports.
     
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    Nick Rudnick

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    I have done diamond plate in the boat I built, and the Wooldridge I have has diamond plate. I am actually not a fan of it because it is very bright and can be slippery when wet. If I were to re-do the floor in either boat, I would do 0.160" flat aluminum plate and send it to RMC powder-coat and have them powder-coat a textured finish on it similar to bed liner (they have lots of color options available, I would probably do a dark grey). It is wayyy easier to clean and maintain.
     
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    ondarvr

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    Sep 5, 2009
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    Jody Wyse
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    I've done diamond plate in a couple boats, when new it's bright and slippery, after a bit of use those two negatives go away and there's been no issues. I'd do the same thing again in my current boat when the time comes. If someone doesn't like the finish after using it, it could be coated with any one of the many non skid options.

    I don't like wood and vinyl, it just doesn't hold up.... well, I don't like anything wood in a boat.
     
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    Hunter Dan

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    Jun 30, 2011
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    Grip Strut Plank Grating so the tuna blood falls straight to the bilge? Probably not, BUT most BDers should be aware of the company making it just for the name!.........Wait for it.....McNichols Quality Hole Products! Please cue up the Christi McNichols fantasies from your misspent youths!
     
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