Fishing Rod Too Stiff

hucklongfin

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Jul 3, 2003
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Blazer Bay 1860
Do I have a choice? Any real 130lb+ rods are going to cost at least $500, right?
No, the Okuma pch-c-741xxxxh is under $300.

Personaly, at any weight line/drag pressure, I want the rod to bend. When the fish is up and down I only look at the tip, if it comes up, I crank it back down. Keep the fish under max pressure and get it on the boat. A too stiff of rod just puts you on the wrong end of the lever.
 
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RWP

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I don't know why they rate the jigging rods as high as they do.
 
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hucklongfin

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They're rated in terms of spectra which bears no relationship to what you'd fish it with!
 
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RWP

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They're rated in terms of spectra which bears no relationship to what you'd fish it with!
Yes, which is exactly the part that makes no sense.

They should just rate it properly, list jig weight and max drag. Forget about line weight on a jigging rod.
 
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hucklongfin

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Yes, which is exactly the part that makes no sense.

They should just rate it properly, list jig weight and max drag. Forget about line weight on a jigging rod.
Which is why it isn't a 130#+ rod. To have that rating you need to be able to handle at least 45# of drag. I landed a 270# YFT in 20 minutes at 45# of drag from the get go on a UC Invictus 76.
 
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RWP

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Which is why it isn't a 130#+ rod. To have that rating you need to be able to handle at least 45# of drag. I landed a 270# YFT in 20 minutes at 45# of drag from the get go on a UC Invictus 76.
We are saying the same thing. I agree it's not a 130lb rod, its probably not even an 80lb rod, but Shimano rates it 80-200.
 
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RWP

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shimano rods suck, ive seen more terez explode than any other. ive broken teramars too. their only rail rod is the terez and it costs $350 or something
You say that about every single thing shimano makes.
 
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geebee

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Do I have a choice? Any real 130lb+ rods are going to cost at least $500, right?
in what scenario are you planning to fish a 130# rod in Southern California, including drag set at strike, so it is clear what you are talking about

if you get a chance, visit (or call) Squidco in San Diego with that info on the tip of your tongue...

FWIW a 100# rod would be the last line class I would buy for local fishing unless I was purely a cow bluefin aficionado ... renting is an option until you build on experience (and fishing budget)
 
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hucklongfin

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in what scenario are you planning to fish a 130# rod in Southern California, including drag set at strike, so it is clear what you are talking about

if you get a chance, visit (or call) Squidco in San Diego with that info on the tip of your tongue...

FWIW a 100# rod would be the last line class I would buy for local fishing unless I was purely a big bluefin aficionado ... renting is an option
But it makes my heart sing to look over at the Mak 50SEa/Invictus 76! The Mak 20SEa/Viper 76, HXW Raptor/pch-c-741xxxh and Mak 16 SEa/Centaur combos get used for the local BFT.
 
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lichenpan

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    in what scenario are you planning to fish a 130# rod in Southern California, including drag set at strike, so it is clear what you are talking about

    if you get a chance, visit (or call) Squidco in San Diego with that info on the tip of your tongue...

    FWIW a 100# rod would be the last line class I would buy for local fishing unless I was purely a big bluefin aficionado ... renting is an option
    I read here that people using 130lb or 200lb leader for nighttime flatfall out of SD. My thought was to buy a rod that is suited for both flatfall and sinker rig.
     
    2Rotten
    2Rotten
    The 200# leader at night is so you don't get chewed off. I used 100# leader 2 weeks ago direct tied to a 12/0 Eagle Claw 2004 Circle Hook with the jig (hookless) bridled to the hook. Worked for 120#, 125# & 185# BFT
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    2Rotten

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    PXL_20210527_151245054.jpg
    PXL_20210524_074229450.jpg
     
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    geebee

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    I read here that people using 130lb or 200lb leader for nighttime flatfall out of SD. My thought was to buy a rod that is suited for both flatfall and sinker rig.
    ok, that's what I would tell Squidco and your budget
    and ask about their Fathers Day gift certificates (25% discount)

    moreover

    I like to define a rod class by its sweet drag setting at strike (example, a 100-pound rig, typically set at 20-30lbs at strike with full spool and desirable action)

    simply: a rod will make a good 60, 80, 100 pound rig (determined by the actual drag setting applied, preferred bendo, and recoil (lifting power))

    further: an 80lb rig (24lbs drag) doesn't become a 130 or 200lb rig just because you spool it with 130lb braid and tie on a 200lb mono leader

    it's the applied drag, recoil (and sweet spot) that determines the rig's line class - not the line installed
     
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    hucklongfin

    Deep release specialist
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    I read here that people using 130lb or 200lb leader for nighttime flatfall out of SD. My thought was to buy a rod that is suited for both flatfall and sinker rig.
    My 100# rig has 100# spectra to 25' of 100# fluoro. The jig has 3' of 200# crimped to it with a swivel crimped to the other end that's tied to my 100# leader. The 200# is to keep from getting chewed off... BFT have teeth and the jig may hook them in the throat rather than the corner of the jaw!
     
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