Fathom (1st gen) mods

[p-nut]

I thought I’d start a thread on misc. Fathom mods, tips, and tricks I’ve discovered over time. I already posted a thread on swapping the handle knob with the VISX t-bar knob and learned of other manufacturers of drop in handles and knobs. Here are a few other simple things I’ve learned.

1) Checking out the Gen 2 Fathom, I learned that it had a locking drag adjustment knob that the Gen 1 doesn’t have. I realized how helpful this feature could be after handling my Gen 1 and accidentally moving the knob while putting on and taking off my reel covers. My solution to this was to simply draw a witness mark with a Sharpie across the knob and base once the drag is set.

2) After replacing the knob on my 40, I realized the factory knob was slightly bigger than the factory knob on my 15, 25, and 30. My 40 knob had a end cap that was held on with 2 torx head screws while the others had press fit caps. Figuring that a t-bar might be overkill on my 15, I swapped out the knobs.

 

[p-nut]

Here’s a pic of the different factory knobs… 40 on the left, 15 on the right

 

[bigreddog]

Minor modifications with the configuration of parts on the spool shaft can make big differences in drag, free spool, and handle resistance in the fathoms and torques. Adding or subtracting spacers (part #154B) between the Belville springs (part #18) and adding/subtracting machinist shims underneath the right-side spool bearing can increase drag and free spool substantially.

The numbers referenced come from the Fathom 25N/30 schematics.

This requires some experimentation to do but is worthwhile if you can fix shit.

You can shorten the time spent experimenting by doing 2 things before you start:
1. mark and insert the spool shaft into the left side plate the same way every time.
2. mark the cam and cam follower so they mate and assemble into the drag lever the same way each time. Minor differences in the way these pieces mate together will cause big differences in performance. Ensure that these components assemble the same every time.

As mentioned above, mark the preset knob where optimum drag and free spool is found once you have modified the reel.

I have a bunch of these reels-and initially was disappointed that drag numbers did not come close to advertised numbers. With a little work they all fish flawlessly with better free spool, more drag and less handle resistance.

The same principals of customization apply to most small to medium size 2 speeds. The factories cannot optimize performance because it requires line to be on the reel, and the knowledge of what drag settings will be fished.

You can order the parts I mentioned from mysticparts.com. They only cost a few dollars and allow customization of your reel to fish your specs.

If you take the time to mark these components, you will be able to clean and service your reel in just a few minutes, and it will have the same drag settings when it is reassembled.

 

[Dozer217]

Put a 16VISX handle on my 40, just had to drill the extra hole but works great

 

[p-nut]

Put a 16VISX handle on my 40, just had to drill the extra hole but works great

I haven’t tried the direct swap, only the knob swap. Did you have any problems with engaging LOW GEAR? Ive read that some people had to thin the VISX arm or make a longer spacer to make it work right…

 

[Pelagic Slayer]

I haven’t tried the direct swap, only the knob swap. Did you have any problems with engaging LOW GEAR? Ive read that some people had to thin the VISX arm or make a longer spacer to make it work right…

I was also looking to do a knob only swap while keeping the fathom arm. How does it work out for you? Is the rivet (part 91) long enough so your hand doesn't hit the 2 speed knob? Got any pics?

 

[Dozer217]

Nope, no issues when shifting\ after changing the handle