Fall Flats: Direct tie or Leader???

The Dr.

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The topic of flat fall rigging has been discussed on more than one occasion. But, it usually focuses on the rigging of hooks and swivels on the jig itself.

I want to hear guys opinions on line setups connecting to the jig.

1. straight braid, direct tie to the 200-400lb bite leader?

2. short leader of 100-130 flouro between the braid and bite leader?

3. Short leader of 100-200 mono bewteen braid and bite leader?
 
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Proteus

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    I'm not going for pelagic or using heavy gear, but I just go braid/PR knot/Fluoro and tie that to the solid ring that the assist hook is attached to. Keep in mind my rig is much lighter, half the capacity of what you're talking about.
     
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    The Dr.

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    I'm not going for pelagic or using heavy gear, but I just go braid/PR knot/Fluoro and tie that to the solid ring that the assist hook is attached to. Keep in mind my rig is much lighter, half the capacity of what you're talking about.


    Thanks for the reply. I should of clarified, I want to know how guys are connecting while targeting large Bluefin.
     
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    James Taylor

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    Jan 7, 2019
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    I’ve been thinking about this as well. Less connections going braid to the 200 pound bite leader But I i’m going to put some 100 pound mono in between to give it some stretch and just in case the Rod straightens out there will still be tension on the hook
     
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    Cubeye

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    The topic of flat fall rigging has been discussed on more than one occasion. But, it usually focuses on the rigging of hooks and swivels on the jig itself.

    I want to hear guys opinions on line setups connecting to the jig.

    1. straight braid, direct tie to the 200-400lb bite leader?

    2. short leader of 100-130 flouro between the braid and bite leader?

    3. Short leader of 100-200 mono bewteen braid and bite leader?

    Good Thread.
    It's been discussed on many of the posts, but not collectively. You have to weed through all the posts in order to get the information you are seeking.

    Might want to add a
    #4. Wind-On leader (mono or fluoro) tied directly to the jig.
     
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    IronMikeAC

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    The topic of flat fall rigging has been discussed on more than one occasion. But, it usually focuses on the rigging of hooks and swivels on the jig itself.

    I want to hear guys opinions on line setups connecting to the jig.

    1. straight braid, direct tie to the 200-400lb bite leader?

    2. short leader of 100-130 flouro between the braid and bite leader?

    3. Short leader of 100-200 mono bewteen braid and bite leader?
    You have to have heavy leader to keep the jig and the fish. Below are 3 jigs the each caught bluefin. The 2 on the bottom , 500g squid and 350g flatfall, have 200 lb crimped leader and got 90lb bft. The small one on the top is a 200g flatfall got a 270lb bft. The leader was 130lb fluoro that was kinked in several places where the fish bit the line. Bottom line, no leader, No fish (sounds like a Bob Marley song). A guy on our last trip was fishing colt snipers no leader, lost 4 out of 5.

    20201105_213727.jpg
     
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    bobsled

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    Good Thread.
    It's been discussed on many of the posts, but not collectively. You have to weed through all the posts in order to get the information you are seeking.

    Might want to add a
    #4. Wind-On leader (mono or fluoro) tied directly to the jig.

    Although I haven't tried it yet, I like your #4 suggestion. That would be the cleanest of all the options (zero knots, fewest connections). I'm about to rig my FFs with wind-on leaders and end loops using Fluoro for its abrasion resistance over mono. I'll get to test it next week (maybe, if the big ones are still around).
     
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    Mike D.

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    I like at least 50' mono topshot of 100-130#. A little stretch but mostly for abrasion resistance against the bottom of the boat during those last few circles. I watched someone loose two back to back because the guys braid touched the bottom of the boat. I do an FG for my mono topshot, or a bimini with a wind on, and crimp to the flat fall swivel.
     
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    Cubeye

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    I like at least 50' mono topshot of 100-130#. A little stretch but mostly for abrasion resistance against the bottom of the boat during those last few circles. I watched someone loose two back to back because the guys braid touched the bottom of the boat. I do an FG for my mono topshot, or a bimini with a wind on, and crimp to the flat fall swivel.
    How long are your wind-ons?

    That guy should have not lost any of his fish because of his line rubbing against the bottom of the boat. The crew should have had their "Push Poles, U, Y," or whatever you want to call it, ready and in the water as the fish was making its big circles under the boat. If it were me, I would have asked for it.
     
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    JK47

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    How long are your wind-ons?

    That guy should have not lost any of his fish because of his line rubbing against the bottom of the boat. The crew should have had their "Push Poles, U, Y," or whatever you want to call it, ready and in the water as the fish was making its big circles under the boat. If it were me, I would have asked for it.
    They may have been busy with other fish/tangles at the time. On my last trip a few weeks ago we had as many as 9 fish on at the same time during the nightime flatfall bite.
     
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    The Dr.

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    I like at least 50' mono topshot of 100-130#. A little stretch but mostly for abrasion resistance against the bottom of the boat during those last few circles. I watched someone loose two back to back because the guys braid touched the bottom of the boat. I do an FG for my mono topshot, or a bimini with a wind on, and crimp to the flat fall swivel.

    This is close to my set up. I've been running 20-30ft of 100lb mono, spliced with w/ a Sato crimp. Then I use a Nico press crimp to connect to the FF bite leader.

    I may have to increase the length to 50ft...
     
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    IronMikeAC

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    Although I haven't tried it yet, I like your #4 suggestion. That would be the cleanest of all the options (zero knots, fewest connections). I'm about to rig my FFs with wind-on leaders and end loops using Fluoro for its abrasion resistance over mono. I'll get to test it next week (maybe, if the big ones are still around).
    My opinion is your are over-complicating it. Because:
    The crimps don't prevent bites
    I have 2 bft over 200 on jigs. 6 over 100.
    Never had a crimp fail.
    The heavy leader,crimps,swivel was not a hindrance since most are caught at night.
    Easy to rig all your jigs before your trip
    Then just tie mono to swivel
    I still like the stretch in mono before the spectra.
    Lastly, jig size and color doesn't matter. Only depth and time in the BFT zone wherever they are. Heavier jigs are needed for faster drift, not bigger tuna.
     
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    Scott McPherson

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    Aug 17, 2017
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    3 ft Leader 200lb crimped to jig with upgraded hooks. No topshot direct tie 10 turn San Diego knot 100lb prospec spectre. Works for me. Got a 306 gilled and gutted.
    Mark your line every 100ft to keep in the zone. Consider scope of line while doing this.
    regards
    Scott
     

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    Anders1

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    Might I suggest that the least amount of long heavy leader the better. The deeper you go, the line drag on the water will make your flatfall fail to swim/fall correctly. The line resistance will force the head of the jig up, the tail down, and it will fall faster without the flutter/swim the flatfall is designed to do. Depending on the weight of the lure, it starts happening @ 100-150' down, shallower with lighter jigs, deeper with heavier jigs. Shortest abrasion leader and lightest mainline braid can get away with.
     
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    MAG0121

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    Taking into consideration rigging at home versus on the boat, here's my typical flatfall strategy when I don't feel like crimping on the boat (multiple triple digit fish up to 265lb).

    100lb hollow Izorline backing (500yds)
    130lb inline spliced hollow Izorline to nearly the top (150ish yds)
    200lb Izor mono or 130 Aftco Saiko fluoro windon, 25yds, loop-to-loop connection.

    At home, I run the wind-on through the guides and crimp a heavy duty barrel swivel to the end. I leave this out the top just barely with a piece of styrofoam to protect the guide. Once on the boat, I attach whatever glow jig I'm feeling (Shimano, Daiwa SK, Nomad, or Savage Gear) to the swivel with a heavy duty split ring. Basically, the same as I'd rig for slow pitch jigging, just way heavier terminal tackle.

    (and FTR, I've never had a split ring fail on a big fish, either at the top or bottom of the jig. Just have to size it appropriately. And here's the style of swivel I use, with delrin grommet instead of chafe gear - and I cut off the grommet on the end that's attached to the jig split ring.)

    grommet.JPG
     
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