Ez steer??????

Jaymo72

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May 22, 2015
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I have a 21’ trophy pro with matching Hondas. 150 main 9.9 kicker. My main is mounted in a splash well and my kicker is mounted to the port side on a custom bracket. Distance center to center is 31”. I hate hate hate steering with the tiller. It would be way more convenient to steer from the helm. I have a few questions. 1. Is Ez-steer my only option to tie my shafts together? A straight bar in front is not an option. Also not looking for remote options. 2. Anyone have experience with Ez steer? What are your opinions. 3. Where would the best place to buy this setup? I am located in kitsap county and have already called westmarine. Lots of help they were. Also if someone might have one laying around they aren’t using I’d be open to potentially taking it off your hands.
 

fishing fanatic

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Depending on the steering cylinder and the mechanical ability there is a cable kit from sea star that is unreal cool for that horsepower range that I used for years on my Olympic. DM for more info if you’d like
 
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Jasper H

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Like a lot guys, I tried using an easy steer on my first boat. For me it never worked right, it was a total waste of time an money.
For a few bucks more than another EZ steer I ended up with a panther remote system on my kicker . it certainly was an awesome step up and worked way better than the EZ steer ever did.
 
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Jaymo72

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Depending on the steering cylinder and the mechanical ability there is a cable kit from sea star that is unreal cool for that horsepower range that I used for years on my Olympic. DM for more info if you’d like
I’m going to do some research on this. Thanks for the input!
 

Genie Aye

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    I second JasperH sentiment, i love my panther electric steering. I had the seastar cable setup, made the main pretty stiff and the main is hydraulic, felt like a 5yr old cable steering.
     
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    Jaymo72

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    I second JasperH sentiment, i love my panther electric steering. I had the seastar cable setup, made the main pretty stiff and the main is hydraulic, felt like a 5yr old cable steering.
    Do you run the Panther on the new Grady? Is it the white t5 or the 101 electro steer? Is it worth the money for a wireless remote?
     
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    The Peddler

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    The SeaStar cable option would be my first choice, however with your main engine in a splash well, there may not be enough room.

    I used an EZ-Steer for a long time on the Trophy 2052 (I/O). It was finicky for a bit, until I got it dialed-in.
     
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    Wild Bill

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    EZ steer would be my last option. How much difference in set back and mounting height is there between main and kicker? Those stainless tie rods with qd ball joints can be custom bent to match application as long as mounting height is within a few inches of each other and setback within 6-8”. The supplied fine thread ss rod may end up too short but custom lengths can be easily procured from McMaster Carr or other sources. I have been running a custom bent tie rod like this for 5 yrs or so with almost no issues. The only problem I have had is one of the keeper c clips came off one of the ball qd joints after a couple of years. I carry a couple of spares now.
     
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    punted coho

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    EZ steer kind of sucks. The brackets are flimsy and break easily and the tie bar sucks to take off and on, I haven’t used one able to leave on with kicker tilted up running on main. If it’s all ya got then its better than nothing. I run a cable steering setup to a tiller handle kicker on one boat with an I/O and have a panther remote steer on the sled. Both kickers are tiller handle Yamaha 9.9’s.
     
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    KimH

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    Like others have said take a good look at the Seastar cable tie bar. I used it on an Arima Sea Legend that I had several years ago. You don't have to worry if the kicker or main for that matter is up, down, in or out. Cable handles it all. Got to the point where I forgot the kicker was tied to the main which sits in a well. One of the better things I did to that boat. Take a look at the data sheet to see if you have to the room to install it. http://www.seastarsolutions.com/kicker-cable-tie-bar/
     
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    kwik_wurk

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    Don’t bother with EZ-steer.

    For $31 you can buy the Panther tie bar (QD ball joint system that is on the interior). For <$100 you can build the system customized, using new SS threaded rod and bend to fit and have money to make SS stand-off bracket for kicker (or motor). — The only drawback is you’ll have to remove it depending on if/when/how the kicker gets trimmed up. (ie clearances due to notched transom, bracket offset which way the kicker is turned/tilted etc.)

    I’ve built a few of these up for friends, and use one on my small boat all the time. Preferred config is the male ball joint directly mounted to the steering arm bracket on the motors. - As other comment, the C-clips and springs wear/corrode over time (those are not SS), and sleeve the SS threaded rod with tubing.

    If you’re having to go aft to tilt the kicker down and adjust the bracket, start it, throttle, etc. It’s not much more effort to connect the bar at the same time. If you’re mostly remote, then go remote steering.

    Amazon product
     
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    Jaymo72

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    The SeaStar cable option would be my first choice, however with your main engine in a splash well, there may not be enough room.

    I used an EZ-Steer for a long time on the Trophy 2052 (I/O). It was finicky for a bit, until I got it dialed-in.
    The more I look at it and think about it the Ez steer is not going to work for me. When my kicker is tilted up to run the tiller rests on my transom. If I’m tied together at the shafts i wouldn’t be able to steer as my kicker can’t turn while it is all the way up. Sounds like panther steering or try and build a custom tie rod.
     
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    Captain Decent

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    There’s lots of electric options but I guess I’m in the minority in that ez steer is pretty damn simple and reliable as long as it’s rigged properly. Couple brackets, tie rod with heym joints, done. Hard to improve on that imo.

    Personally in the past I have also rigged up marine rated electric actuators and rocker switch for steering.

    Right now though I’m rigging up a second rear helm that is going to use a rack and pinion steering cable with steering wheel. Maybe I’m old school but as trick as I could make it I still prefer turning a wheel with mechanical actuation.
     
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    washington1

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    The more I look at it and think about it the Ez steer is not going to work for me. When my kicker is tilted up to run the tiller rests on my transom. If I’m tied together at the shafts i wouldn’t be able to steer as my kicker can’t turn while it is all the way up. Sounds like panther steering or try and build a custom tie rod.
    Your kicker doesn’t turn if it’s trimmed up and you’re running on your main. The EZ steer bar is able to extend and retract, plus rotate with the heim joint leaving your kicker position unchanged.

    I have an Arima, so similar splash well/kicker configuration since my kicker isn’t on the same plane as my main. I never take my ez steer bar off, not to run on the main, not even to trailer my boat. I do need to troll with both motors down. Ez steer isn’t as fancy or as nice as the other options mentioned, but that said once you get it dialed in, (takes some effort) it works well. Plus it fit my budget at the time.
     
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    KimH

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    Your kicker doesn’t turn if it’s trimmed up and you’re running on your main. The EZ steer bar is able to extend and retract, plus rotate with the heim joint leaving your kicker position unchanged.

    I have an Arima, so similar splash well/kicker configuration since my kicker isn’t on the same plane as my main. I never take my ez steer bar off, not to run on the main, not even to trailer my boat. I do need to troll with both motors down. Ez steer isn’t as fancy or as nice as the other options mentioned, but that said once you get it dialed in, (takes some effort) it works well. Plus it fit my budget at the time.
    I feel regardless what you have. EZ steer, cable tie bar or something electrical it's best to leave your main down as it acts like a rudder helping you steer.
     
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    EJ Swanny

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    Like others have said.....EZ steer can be finicky. If measured correctly, and tensioned correctly, it works fairly well. I troll with main down as well....helps steering. I can leave it on the whole time and steer fairly well doing non-trolling activities. When I pull a tube, and do sharp/quick turns, I usually take it off. EZ will run you (3 bills +/-) depending on length of bar, also easily installed. Seastar will be 5.5 bills + install.

    Just giving you some more opinions. GL with decision....
     
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    Dash One

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    01D6DA28-05B2-4686-BF48-415C2066F069.gif


    Swede,

    Try a monkey at the kicker. They got crazy skills … and, your old lady might not be tempted to run off with Bonzo. But a midget? … you’re takin a big chance. Gettin’ long-dicked by a midget is an ego crusher, or so I’m told. I heard it from Vance one night around the campfire at Tuna Town when he was feeling vulnerable. You know, when he gets all weepy and shit … starts talking about the old days. Sad.

    Jay

    Back to 16
     
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    Genie Aye

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    Do you run the Panther on the new Grady? Is it the white t5 or the 101 electro steer? Is it worth the money for a wireless remote?

    Yes, on the grady. And yes the white/saltwater unit and i just use the wired remote, i can walk anywhere on the back deck with the remote. Cheapest and easiest i could find. My main is on a bracket, troller is on a lift bracket, so ez-steer wasn't a option after i took the seastar cable steer off.
     
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    Oct 25, 2018
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    can anyone with the seastar cable tie set up tell me how far out from the kicker that the bar sticks at full lock? (port side mounted kicker, rod sticking out the port side)
    im thinking issues with it potentially sticking out past the rail of the boat when docking and catching something.
     
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    EJ Swanny

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    can anyone with the seastar cable tie set up tell me how far out from the kicker that the bar sticks at full lock? (port side mounted kicker, rod sticking out the port side)
    im thinking issues with it potentially sticking out past the rail of the boat when docking and catching something.
    The pictures I have seen, it is better to have the kicker on the port (left side) as the hydraulic hose is plumbed on the end of the ram on the port side. However, I see your concern, as the ram in the picture looks to be a bit even or a bit beyond the gunnel (especially if fully extended). If you have room on your kicker mount, just move it a bit inward????

    41kKjWWYm6L._AC_.jpg


    What if your kicker was on the SB side?? Is it an easy conversion? My swim step is on the port side, so kicker on the SB. The hydro hose may be snaking everywhere?????
    Thanks....
     
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