Electrical Tips/Ideas Requested for Minn Kota Motor on Aluminum Boat.

PNWMatt2016

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Hey Everyone, Is anybody here an electrician or have experience hooking up a minn kota to their boat? I have a group 27 deep cycle marine battery that I would like to store on the bow. It is 10' away from the stern, where my 55lb thrust motor is. I need more weight up front, rather than in the stern... The OEM wires on a minn kota trolling motor are 8 gauge I believe. I only have about 5 feet worth of stock wire, before the gentleman who owned prior attached a quick disconnect. I need to add on 5 more feet so that the battery can be stored forward under my compartment box..I bought 5 feet of 6 gauge (black and red).... I was told that I should take the end of my trolling motor wire where the disconnect is (has 2 Y or U type of connectors at the end) and find a way to securely attach the new 6 gauge....Any ideas? Also I bought a 60 amp circuit breaker (which was recommended to be attached to the battery box).. Can someone help me out with ideas. I have never done this before. This is for my 14' aluminum hewes craft project (free boat) (restoration to be posted later).. Thank you, Matt
 
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goatram

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    Do yourself a favor and get a length of romax wire 6ga and the terminal ends required to fit from the motor location to the Battery. Using a stud fitting in a open boat will just cause you problems. Corrosion and thin ass aluminum sheet with Rivets invites future headaches. The little electrical gremlins will find a way to jump from the stud to the metal. Plastic be damned. Fir needles and leaves collect in small open boats.

    Romax will have the two colored wires wrapped up with a protective outer covering. Harbor Marine in Everett or Fisheries in Seattle has the Marine grade Romax, the connectors, and heat shrink to do it right the first time. They also will crimp the connectors for you as well as install the heat shrink. For a price of course. Could try to send in your wife to ask them to do her a favor. A little T&A works sometimes if she's cute. Just saying. Bees and Honey.
     
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    PNWMatt2016

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    Do yourself a favor and get a length of romax wire 6ga and the terminal ends required to fit from the motor location to the Battery. Using a stud fitting in a open boat will just cause you problems. Corrosion and thin ass aluminum sheet with Rivets invites future headaches. The little electrical gremlins will find a way to jump from the stud to the metal. Plastic be damned. Fir needles and leaves collect in small open boats.

    Romax will have the two colored wires wrapped up with a protective outer covering. Harbor Marine in Everett or Fisheries in Seattle has the Marine grade Romax, the connectors, and heat shrink to do it right the first time. They also will crimp the connectors for you as well as install the heat shrink. For a price of course. Could try to send in your wife to ask them to do her a favor. A little T&A works sometimes if she's cute. Just saying. Bees and Honey.
    Thanks John. I saw the coated/jacketed 6 gauge at Harbor Marine yesterday. However, the guy helping me said either type would work for the application I was needing it for...Bud and I were talking yesterday about using a high pressure crimp, shrink tube and then electrical tape at the connection between the 6 and 8 awg wire. I have a 1 inch water hose/tube left over that I was going to run the wires/fuel line through, in order to bundle everything up/protect it as its spanned throughout the boat. If I sent my wife in there, she'd see how much this fishing S**t really costs HAHA...Later she'd go through the garage and pull out the calculator...lol.. I might have to send in my neighbor in this case...she's attractive and has no ties to my fishing equipment hoarding problems. Thanks again for the suggestions!
     
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    PNWMatt2016

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    I actually saw that on Amazon too... I was looking for something more streamline/smaller... Like a bus bar, but single 6 opening on one side and single 8 opening on the other...with a few set screws on top.. The closest I could find had a single 4-6 AWG opening at one end..and then four hole openings at the other end for 8 & 10 awg, with a ton of set screws on top.. Maybe I can look locally for what I need?
     
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    goatram

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    Matt the splice will have resistance. Causing heat and you will not have all of the Battery power supplied to your motor. There are charts to show the gauge of wire needed for the AMPs required. The lengthen between the battery to the motor is doubled because you have to include both neg and the POS cable length when determining the run.

    Again spend the money once. Splices no matter how well it's sealed will get water in there. Water will cause resistance and corrosion.

    I have my degree in the Tom Foolery School of Hard Knocks. Being a Skin Flint hurts your wallet bottom line. If you wanna have it fail in the most inconvenient time do the splice and be happy for the 20 bucks saved.
     
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    fishnazzi

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    Matt the splice will have resistance. Causing heat and you will not have all of the Battery power supplied to your motor. There are charts to show the gauge of wire needed for the AMPs required. The lengthen between the battery to the motor is doubled because you have to include both neg and the POS cable length when determining the run.

    Again spend the money once. Splices no matter how well it's sealed will get water in there. Water will cause resistance and corrosion.

    I have my degree in the Tom Foolery School of Hard Knocks. Being a Skin Flint hurts your wallet bottom line. If you wanna have it fail in the most inconvenient time do the splice and be happy for the 20 bucks saved.
    Here is the chart that goat ram speaks of........ this is from minnkota. I cropped the other “crap” from pic. This is what you need to know. Remember the length of the wire is what they are talking about. A a 14’ boat could easily have an 18’ wire run. My suggestion..... place battery and motor where they will be. Get a ball of string and some masking tape. Run string as you would wire. Tape in place etc as I hope your not gonna leave the wire laying in the bilge loose. Also remember that the wire doesn’t bend easy like string and account for bends in wire with “sweeping” turns. Good luck
    AAC6D0B9-4D4C-4368-BB78-3F7EF2A6833A.jpeg
     
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    acefuture

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    Correct size wire connector, solid crimp, cover in liquid electrical tape, shrink tube with 3M coated shrink, wrap in electrical tape, done. I've done this for years and years on boats, off road cars, RVs, etc. Never had any issues. The connections at the motor and battery will fail before those will
     
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    goatram

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    Correct size wire connector, solid crimp, cover in liquid electrical tape, shrink tube with 3M coated shrink, wrap in electrical tape, done. I've done this for years and years on boats, off road cars, RVs, etc. Never had any issues. The connections at the motor and battery will fail before those will
    True but splicing 6 to a 8gauge wire to save a few dollars? Not worth the future hassle. You being "experienced" i.e. you had a failure or two to learn from makes a difference.
     
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    acefuture

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    True but splicing 6 to a 8gauge wire to save a few dollars? Not worth the future hassle. You being "experienced" i.e. you had a failure or two to learn from makes a difference.
    OP is using 6 gauge wire from the battery to the stock 8 gauge wire coming from the motor, which means the heavier duty wire is supplying a smaller duty circuit. Completely acceptable. Now if it was the other way around, I would say bad idea because you'd be trying to power a higher draw unit with a cable that isn't rated for it, but that's not the case here. With proper crimping, coated with liquid electrical tape, and shrink tube there is no chance of corrosion, and being that it's a larger than necessary supply wire, it won't overheat. I agree, would be smarter to just run the same size cable. But I don't think this would be a bad call either

    Oh and i've had plenty of failures too
     
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    Fireball

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    6 to 8 is fine as long as it is fused to the rating of the number 8. The splice method above is what Matt and I discussed.
    I'm not sure of the access he has in to the trolling motor to remove the factory wiring and install new larger wire. He will know if there is an issue with the size wire on his first trip. He will notice the motor running slower than it should and will need to make adjustments from there.
    The chart above calls out for a #4 for a 15' to 20' run, but I do not see if that is calculated on a single run (one wire) or total of two wires. He mentioned there is 5' of factory wire and he bought 5' of #6 so I'm assuming his run is with in 10'.

    Matt let us know how it goes.

    Good Luck
     
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    ShadowX

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    Remove all the old wire, go to genuinedealz for your wires (6 or 4 awg). Its the cheapest place. Get some good quality terminals. Go down to harbor freight and buy a hydraulic crimper. If you use a 20% or 25% off coupon, it would be a lot cheaper. You can swage your own terminals and put a heat shrink sleeving over it. Its a good time to replace the old cables and make your own. Unless you need it, you should get rid of the quick disconnects. Its just more connections that can fail on you.

    Genuinedealz also can crimp the connectors you want on the wires for you. If you know exactly what you want at the ends, you can get the pre-made wires and just hook it up. I already have the hydraulic crimper, so I have everything you need. I can give you tips on using the crimper if you go that route. You don't want to use the blocks for the final wire gauge right away. You have to go up one or two sizes larger first. Crimp one side, then rotate around 90 degrees and crimp the sides. Repeat for the next smaller crimper size until you get to your final wire gauge. If you do it this way, the crimp would be perfect. If you go directly to the final wire size, it may leave tags on either side which is not good.


     
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