Electrical Mayhem

_dayday

Well-Known "Member"
Mar 5, 2017
215
403
63
San Diego
Name
Dylan
Boat
17ft CC "Gringo Mandingo"
Backstory: I married the right girl and was able to inherit her fathers boat. 17ft CC sea pro. Had to put some money into it within the past few years since it sat for about 4 years. Redid the fish finder/radio and had it installed about 3 years ago. Everything worked for a while but now I am seeing some issues. Radio has a super limited range, fish finder is cutting out power whenever I hit a wake. I've been trying to take apart the electrical to see if there was any issue that I would be able to notice however there is so much wiring running through there, and half of it doesn't even plug into anything. Apperentley, after talking with my father in law, he told me that the boat got stolen after he got it, and they ripped out all the wiring, so he re wired everything himself. Here is a picture of what I believe to be the problem with the fishfinder/radio but i'd still like to get everything cleaned up(I also have no idea where to even start with fixing this)
Wiring.jpg
.

I was wondering if there were any recommendations of places here in SD that would be helpful or does anyone have a knack for marine electronics that I could bother with a few questions!

Thanks!
 

bayfisher86

Well-Known "Member"
Feb 6, 2004
632
263
63
33
Fountain Valley, Ca
Name
Aaron
Boat
Parker 2310WA
That’s all bad right there! The wiring shouldn’t be too crazy on a 17ft cc...if you have some basic knowledge and are confident I would rip it all out and start over fresh...then you know everything works and have confidence in it.
 
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openclass

Slam
May 28, 2009
464
435
63
Fairfield/Bodega Bay
Name
Rick
Boat
Parker 2820 & 26' Farallon Whaleback
Brother that could be something as simple as fixing a connection or two or a complete redo. A radio without DSC, NEMA is pretty straightforward by itself, 12v DC, positive wire and a negative wire. Make sure your antenna connection is good. Without seeing it in person it's a crapshoot but I would start there.
 

Capt.C.Delany

The only fishing I do is trolling the Internet
Jun 22, 2014
1,175
1,334
113
No Grave But the Sea
Name
Hugh Jassole / The Porcelain Punisher
Boat
Paddy Wagon 24' Skippy
Whoa... my heart just palpitated for a second when I saw that gem of a connection.

Here is what I would recommend:

Step 1.
Planning: get your notepad out and write down EVERYTHING that has a power wire. Write down the amp draw as well, this can come in handy later on down the line. Shouldn't be to complicated.

Step 3.
With the mess your walking into, literally pull it all out. Take it in sections. Start with everything running from what I am assuming is the buss/power block near the battery or battery switch to the buss in the console. If you have everything running to the battery or the battery switch we have bigger problems, however those will be solved when you wire everything back up. This will eliminate all of your dead wires and free up a lot of space.

Don't even try to track wires. Cut it all out. (I am NOT talking about any wires that have a device specific plug, i.e. power cable, NMEA, antenna, transducer etc. Leave those intact but you probably want to pull them out as well, don't cut the ends)

Step 4.
Calculate your load that will be on that circuit. Take all the amps that will be getting pulled from all those devices; you will also need the length of the complete circuit to calculate wire size. So add up all the amps, this will help you choose the appropriate size fuse block and fuse, (not likely to all be on at the same time but better safe than sorry) Now take the entire round trip length of the circuit. Essentially what is the length from the fuse block that will be connected to the battery, up to the console, then back to the battery. My guess will be less than 12'. Take that information, go to http://circuitwizard.bluesea.com/# and punch in the info, 12 volts, your amp load and length. For voltage drop, keep it at 3%. So hypothetically, 12 volts, 30 amps, 12 foot run calls for a 10 AWG wire.

Step 5.
Find a place to mount a fuse block back near the battery switch. Determine the size you need based on the amp load you will be putting on it. You should be able to get away with a Blue Sea Systems #5045 or something similar. Now get yourself some red or yellow 10AWG marine grade tinned wire. Run the positive from terminal block to the console. Do the same for the black negative wire going from the battery to the console. Use heat shrink connections and put heat shrink over it for good measure. I always find it works best if you have the right tools for the job. I invested in a ratcheting ancor crimper, ancor gun wire stripper and a decent heat gun. When I buy heat shrink, I buy adhesive lined, 4' sections of 3/8. Now were cookin' with gas... So the only wires that should be going from the console aft are the two you just ran and any device specific wires like for the motor or transducer correct? Now the fun begins if your fat... trying to reach and work in small spaces.

Step 6.
Wire up the console. When you have your two new power wires going to console you want to find a place to mount another fuse block, however the location you choose should be visible and easily accessible later in the event you need to change a fuse. For your application I would recommend getting a Blue Sea Systems #5026 because it has a negative buss on it. So get that mounted in a nice spot and connect your two new wires you just ran.

Next we are going to run power wires for all your shit. Depending on what you have you may just cut everything out, or you may take it one by one. Take the device and cut off the wires on the device side of the connection from any previous connection, make sure the wire is clean and preferably tinned. You can probably get away with using 16 awg for certain things, however I use nothing less than 14 awg, truth be told nearly all of my wiring is actually 12 awg. That's just my preference but it also allows me be to buy bulk spools. You are going to want a use a heat shrink ring connector and heat shrink butt connector for these connections. I put another layer of heat shrink on them as well. Get everything routed neat a pretty. Zip tie the hell out of them. I use the little 6" ones every 8" or so, then about every 3rd one I use one that has the screw hole so I can support it. It really all comes down to how you route it. Don't half ass it. Trust me you want it to look nice, it will save your ass later when you are trying to track a problem down.


Step 7.
Decide if you can use 2 batteries or just one. If you can pull off 2 great, buy a battery ACR and wire it up. Wire up your aft terminal block to your battery switch. Plug in all fuses, I like the "easy id" fuses, they light up when they are blown, little more expensive but well worth it in my opinion.

Done.

The key things to remember are planning it out, using quality material (No home depot shit) and most importantly taking your time, don't over think it.

When you are finished you will know your boat inside and out. If you were on a bigger boat we would need to talk about load balancing, dedicated "safety circuits" etc, you don't need any of that. This should be straight forward and super easy, you could bang it out in a weekend or 2. Plenty of people here to help, if you have any questions shoot me a message.

Once you get all this done, then we can start looking at your transmission range and transducer problem, however there is pretty good chance this could solve those issues.
 
Last edited:

_dayday

Well-Known "Member"
Mar 5, 2017
215
403
63
San Diego
Name
Dylan
Boat
17ft CC "Gringo Mandingo"
That’s all bad right there! The wiring shouldn’t be too crazy on a 17ft cc...if you have some basic knowledge and are confident I would rip it all out and start over fresh...then you know everything works and have confidence in it.
Yeah I think that’s what I’m going to have to do.
 

_dayday

Well-Known "Member"
Mar 5, 2017
215
403
63
San Diego
Name
Dylan
Boat
17ft CC "Gringo Mandingo"
Whoa... my heart just palpitated for a second when I saw that gem of a connection.

Here is what I would recommend:

Step 1.
Planning: get your notepad out and write down EVERYTHING that has a power wire. Write down the amp draw as well, this can come in handy later on down the line. Shouldn't be to complicated.

Step 3.
With the mess your walking into, literally pull it all out. Take it in sections. Start with everything running from what I am assuming is the buss/power block near the battery or battery switch to the buss in the console. If you have everything running to the battery or the battery switch we have bigger problems, however those will be solved when you wire everything back up. This will eliminate all of your dead wires and free up a lot of space.

Don't even try to track wires. Cut it all out. (I am NOT talking about any wires that have a device specific plug, i.e. power cable, NMEA, antenna, transducer etc. Leave those intact but you probably want to pull them out as well, don't cut the ends)

Step 4.
Calculate your load that will be on that circuit. Take all the amps that will be getting pulled from all those devices; you will also need the length of the complete circuit to calculate wire size. So add up all the amps, this will help you choose the appropriate size fuse block and fuse, (not likely to all be on at the same time but better safe than sorry) Now take the entire round trip length of the circuit. Essentially what is the length from the fuse block that will be connected to the battery, up to the console, then back to the battery. My guess will be less than 12'. Take that information, go to http://circuitwizard.bluesea.com/# and punch in the info, 12 volts, your amp load and length. For voltage drop, keep it at 3%. So hypothetically, 12 volts, 30 amps, 12 foot run calls for a 10 AWG wire.

Step 5.
Find a place to mount a fuse block back near the battery switch. Determine the size you need based on the amp load you will be putting on it. You should be able to get away with a Blue Sea Systems #5045 or something similar. Now get yourself some red or yellow 10AWG marine grade tinned wire. Run the positive from terminal block to the console. Do the same for the black negative wire going from the battery to the console. Use heat shrink connections and put heat shrink over it for good measure. I always find it works best if you have the right tools for the job. I invested in a ratcheting ancor crimper, ancor gun wire stripper and a decent heat gun. When I buy heat shrink, I buy adhesive lined, 4' sections of 3/8. Now were cookin' with gas... So the only wires that should be going from the console aft are the two you just ran and any device specific wires like for the motor or transducer correct? Now the fun begins if your fat... trying to reach and work in small spaces.

Step 6.
Wire up the console. When you have your two new power wires going to console you want to find a place to mount another fuse block, however the location you choose should be visible and easily accessible later in the event you need to change a fuse. For your application I would recommend getting a Blue Sea Systems #5026 because it has a negative buss on it. So get that mounted in a nice spot and connect your two new wires you just ran.

Next we are going to run power wires for all your shit. Depending on what you have you may just cut everything out, or you may take it one by one. Take the device and cut off the wires on the device side of the connection from any previous connection, make sure the wire is clean and preferably tinned. You can probably get away with using 16 awg for certain things, however I use nothing less than 14 awg, truth be told nearly all of my wiring is actually 12 awg. That's just my preference but it also allows me be to buy bulk spools. You are going to want a use a heat shrink ring connector and heat shrink butt connector for these connections. I put another layer of heat shrink on them as well. Get everything routed neat a pretty. Zip tie the hell out of them. I use the little 6" ones every 8" or so, then about every 3rd one I use one that has the screw hole so I can support it. It really all comes down to how you route it. Don't half ass it. Trust me you want it to look nice, it will save your ass later when you are trying to track a problem down.


Step 7.
Decide if you can use 2 batteries or just one. If you can pull off 2 great, buy a battery ACR and wire it up. Wire up your aft terminal block to your battery switch. Plug in all fuses, I like the "easy id" fuses, they light up when they are blown, little more expensive but well worth it in my opinion.

Done.

The key things to remember are planning it out, using quality material (No home depot shit) and most importantly taking your time, don't over think it.

When you are finished you will know your boat inside and out. If you were on a bigger boat we would need to talk about load balancing, dedicated "safety circuits" etc, you don't need any of that. This should be straight forward and super easy, you could bang it out in a weekend or 2. Plenty of people here to help, if you have any questions shoot me a message.

Once you get all this done, then we can start looking at your transmission range and transducer problem, however there is pretty good chance this could solve those issues.
My man. I appreciate this a ton. I’m going to get up tomorrow before work and get started. I currently have 2 new batteries( just bought around nov of last year). I believe I saw a fuse block in the center console. I’ll try to get a better look and picture tomorrow. Going to shoot you a pm.
 

Hellosugaree

Would you like to see my member
Sep 6, 2019
181
192
43
35
San Francisco
Name
Timbo
Boat
13' Boston Whaler
I just did a complete rewire on a smaller scale 13ft boat. It also had a bunch of janky connectors and mixed wiring. Stripped everything, pulled all new wires, and installed a central fuse box with neg bus in the dash and in line circuit breaker. That was my first time wiring anything. 12v wiring is pretty straightforward.

If you have the time just strip it all and redo it. Watch a few youtube videos and post questions on bd when you get stuck. I got a ton of help here to get me through it. It was enjoyable to do.

Do yourself a favor and buy a good crimper and quality terminals from the start. I did 75% of it with a shitty tool and finally broke down and bought the good stuff. There's definitely a reason why one tool is $10 and the other is $70. Same for terminals. I bought a pack of 300 conntecors on amazon for 30 bucks. The ancor terminals cost a few bucks per terminal. Again, you get what you pay for.

Here's the thread from my project:

Good luck and keep us posted on how it goes
 

_dayday

Well-Known "Member"
Mar 5, 2017
215
403
63
San Diego
Name
Dylan
Boat
17ft CC "Gringo Mandingo"
I just did a complete rewire on a smaller scale 13ft boat. It also had a bunch of janky connectors and mixed wiring. Stripped everything, pulled all new wires, and installed a central fuse box with neg bus in the dash and in line circuit breaker. That was my first time wiring anything. 12v wiring is pretty straightforward.

If you have the time just strip it all and redo it. Watch a few youtube videos and post questions on bd when you get stuck. I got a ton of help here to get me through it. It was enjoyable to do.

Do yourself a favor and buy a good crimper and quality terminals from the start. I did 75% of it with a shitty tool and finally broke down and bought the good stuff. There's definitely a reason why one tool is $10 and the other is $70. Same for terminals. I bought a pack of 300 conntecors on amazon for 30 bucks. The ancor terminals cost a few bucks per terminal. Again, you get what you pay for.

Here's the thread from my project:

Good luck and keep us posted on how it goes
Will do! Cpt Delaney is helping a ton so hopefully I get this done soon!
 
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_dayday

Well-Known "Member"
Mar 5, 2017
215
403
63
San Diego
Name
Dylan
Boat
17ft CC "Gringo Mandingo"
A run of local bluefin put the boat repairs off. I have everything mapped and am slowly purchasing all the equipment and wiring and then will hopefully start knocking this out little by little.
 
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2nakiller

High and Dry
Dec 19, 2005
77
100
33
57
702 / 805
Name
Rick
Boat
Melissa Marie (Bayrunner Baja 21)
Whoa... my heart just palpitated for a second when I saw that gem of a connection.

Here is what I would recommend:

Step 1.
Planning: get your notepad out and write down EVERYTHING that has a power wire. Write down the amp draw as well, this can come in handy later on down the line. Shouldn't be to complicated.

Step 3.
With the mess your walking into, literally pull it all out. Take it in sections. Start with everything running from what I am assuming is the buss/power block near the battery or battery switch to the buss in the console. If you have everything running to the battery or the battery switch we have bigger problems, however those will be solved when you wire everything back up. This will eliminate all of your dead wires and free up a lot of space.

Don't even try to track wires. Cut it all out. (I am NOT talking about any wires that have a device specific plug, i.e. power cable, NMEA, antenna, transducer etc. Leave those intact but you probably want to pull them out as well, don't cut the ends)

Step 4.
Calculate your load that will be on that circuit. Take all the amps that will be getting pulled from all those devices; you will also need the length of the complete circuit to calculate wire size. So add up all the amps, this will help you choose the appropriate size fuse block and fuse, (not likely to all be on at the same time but better safe than sorry) Now take the entire round trip length of the circuit. Essentially what is the length from the fuse block that will be connected to the battery, up to the console, then back to the battery. My guess will be less than 12'. Take that information, go to http://circuitwizard.bluesea.com/# and punch in the info, 12 volts, your amp load and length. For voltage drop, keep it at 3%. So hypothetically, 12 volts, 30 amps, 12 foot run calls for a 10 AWG wire.

Step 5.
Find a place to mount a fuse block back near the battery switch. Determine the size you need based on the amp load you will be putting on it. You should be able to get away with a Blue Sea Systems #5045 or something similar. Now get yourself some red or yellow 10AWG marine grade tinned wire. Run the positive from terminal block to the console. Do the same for the black negative wire going from the battery to the console. Use heat shrink connections and put heat shrink over it for good measure. I always find it works best if you have the right tools for the job. I invested in a ratcheting ancor crimper, ancor gun wire stripper and a decent heat gun. When I buy heat shrink, I buy adhesive lined, 4' sections of 3/8. Now were cookin' with gas... So the only wires that should be going from the console aft are the two you just ran and any device specific wires like for the motor or transducer correct? Now the fun begins if your fat... trying to reach and work in small spaces.

Step 6.
Wire up the console. When you have your two new power wires going to console you want to find a place to mount another fuse block, however the location you choose should be visible and easily accessible later in the event you need to change a fuse. For your application I would recommend getting a Blue Sea Systems #5026 because it has a negative buss on it. So get that mounted in a nice spot and connect your two new wires you just ran.

Next we are going to run power wires for all your shit. Depending on what you have you may just cut everything out, or you may take it one by one. Take the device and cut off the wires on the device side of the connection from any previous connection, make sure the wire is clean and preferably tinned. You can probably get away with using 16 awg for certain things, however I use nothing less than 14 awg, truth be told nearly all of my wiring is actually 12 awg. That's just my preference but it also allows me be to buy bulk spools. You are going to want a use a heat shrink ring connector and heat shrink butt connector for these connections. I put another layer of heat shrink on them as well. Get everything routed neat a pretty. Zip tie the hell out of them. I use the little 6" ones every 8" or so, then about every 3rd one I use one that has the screw hole so I can support it. It really all comes down to how you route it. Don't half ass it. Trust me you want it to look nice, it will save your ass later when you are trying to track a problem down.


Step 7.
Decide if you can use 2 batteries or just one. If you can pull off 2 great, buy a battery ACR and wire it up. Wire up your aft terminal block to your battery switch. Plug in all fuses, I like the "easy id" fuses, they light up when they are blown, little more expensive but well worth it in my opinion.

Done.

The key things to remember are planning it out, using quality material (No home depot shit) and most importantly taking your time, don't over think it.

When you are finished you will know your boat inside and out. If you were on a bigger boat we would need to talk about load balancing, dedicated "safety circuits" etc, you don't need any of that. This should be straight forward and super easy, you could bang it out in a weekend or 2. Plenty of people here to help, if you have any questions shoot me a message.

Once you get all this done, then we can start looking at your transmission range and transducer problem, however there is pretty good chance this could solve those issues.
Some solid advice right there, do this and you'll have no future problems.
I had to replace the decks and do some welding repairs on my Bayrunner 21, pulled all the wiring out and started from scratch using terminal blacks and watertight boxes.
 
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CRC_222

Member
May 24, 2018
121
144
43
34
Fletcher Hills
Name
Chris
Boat
Hydra Sports 2000cc “No B.S.”
Doing the same thing on my skiff right now. Best advice I can give you to hopefully save a little money, because true marine grade electrical stuff is expensive, is to look at the Amazon warehouse deals and search for Ancor Marine products. Can get a killer deal on wire spools and SS connectors. If this rain would ever stop I could get out and finish mine. Moving the batteries into the console as well. Good luck with everything.

Chris
 

_dayday

Well-Known "Member"
Mar 5, 2017
215
403
63
San Diego
Name
Dylan
Boat
17ft CC "Gringo Mandingo"
Just an update! got almost everything wired! Capt Delany has been essential. Huge help and never got bothered when I asked the 18 million questions. Ran everything and tested it all! everything is in working order and nice and organized. I still need to wire up the nav lights and I'm golden! or purple (changed out the deck lights to some purple led lights)! Also, somehow in the mayhem, my gas gauge wire got tore off from a connection under the deck somewhere. Not too worried since 1. its not a hot wire, and 2. I got a pretty good understanding how the boat run gas wise, 3. Have vessel assist just in case.

Followed everything exactly like capt delany said and everything is organized, clean connections, shrink wrapped, and working! I'll get some pics tomorrow after the Nav lights are finished and everything else is cleaned up.
 

40Grit

Well-Known "Member"
Sep 9, 2009
681
286
63
Newport Beach California
Name
Steve Brown
Boat
Radovich 34
Whoa... my heart just palpitated for a second when I saw that gem of a connection.

Here is what I would recommend:

Step 1.
Planning: get your notepad out and write down EVERYTHING that has a power wire. Write down the amp draw as well, this can come in handy later on down the line. Shouldn't be to complicated.

Step 3.
With the mess your walking into, literally pull it all out. Take it in sections. Start with everything running from what I am assuming is the buss/power block near the battery or battery switch to the buss in the console. If you have everything running to the battery or the battery switch we have bigger problems, however those will be solved when you wire everything back up. This will eliminate all of your dead wires and free up a lot of space.

Don't even try to track wires. Cut it all out. (I am NOT talking about any wires that have a device specific plug, i.e. power cable, NMEA, antenna, transducer etc. Leave those intact but you probably want to pull them out as well, don't cut the ends)

Step 4.
Calculate your load that will be on that circuit. Take all the amps that will be getting pulled from all those devices; you will also need the length of the complete circuit to calculate wire size. So add up all the amps, this will help you choose the appropriate size fuse block and fuse, (not likely to all be on at the same time but better safe than sorry) Now take the entire round trip length of the circuit. Essentially what is the length from the fuse block that will be connected to the battery, up to the console, then back to the battery. My guess will be less than 12'. Take that information, go to http://circuitwizard.bluesea.com/# and punch in the info, 12 volts, your amp load and length. For voltage drop, keep it at 3%. So hypothetically, 12 volts, 30 amps, 12 foot run calls for a 10 AWG wire.

Step 5.
Find a place to mount a fuse block back near the battery switch. Determine the size you need based on the amp load you will be putting on it. You should be able to get away with a Blue Sea Systems #5045 or something similar. Now get yourself some red or yellow 10AWG marine grade tinned wire. Run the positive from terminal block to the console. Do the same for the black negative wire going from the battery to the console. Use heat shrink connections and put heat shrink over it for good measure. I always find it works best if you have the right tools for the job. I invested in a ratcheting ancor crimper, ancor gun wire stripper and a decent heat gun. When I buy heat shrink, I buy adhesive lined, 4' sections of 3/8. Now were cookin' with gas... So the only wires that should be going from the console aft are the two you just ran and any device specific wires like for the motor or transducer correct? Now the fun begins if your fat... trying to reach and work in small spaces.

Step 6.
Wire up the console. When you have your two new power wires going to console you want to find a place to mount another fuse block, however the location you choose should be visible and easily accessible later in the event you need to change a fuse. For your application I would recommend getting a Blue Sea Systems #5026 because it has a negative buss on it. So get that mounted in a nice spot and connect your two new wires you just ran.

Next we are going to run power wires for all your shit. Depending on what you have you may just cut everything out, or you may take it one by one. Take the device and cut off the wires on the device side of the connection from any previous connection, make sure the wire is clean and preferably tinned. You can probably get away with using 16 awg for certain things, however I use nothing less than 14 awg, truth be told nearly all of my wiring is actually 12 awg. That's just my preference but it also allows me be to buy bulk spools. You are going to want a use a heat shrink ring connector and heat shrink butt connector for these connections. I put another layer of heat shrink on them as well. Get everything routed neat a pretty. Zip tie the hell out of them. I use the little 6" ones every 8" or so, then about every 3rd one I use one that has the screw hole so I can support it. It really all comes down to how you route it. Don't half ass it. Trust me you want it to look nice, it will save your ass later when you are trying to track a problem down.


Step 7.
Decide if you can use 2 batteries or just one. If you can pull off 2 great, buy a battery ACR and wire it up. Wire up your aft terminal block to your battery switch. Plug in all fuses, I like the "easy id" fuses, they light up when they are blown, little more expensive but well worth it in my opinion.

Done.

The key things to remember are planning it out, using quality material (No home depot shit) and most importantly taking your time, don't over think it.

When you are finished you will know your boat inside and out. If you were on a bigger boat we would need to talk about load balancing, dedicated "safety circuits" etc, you don't need any of that. This should be straight forward and super easy, you could bang it out in a weekend or 2. Plenty of people here to help, if you have any questions shoot me a message.

Once you get all this done, then we can start looking at your transmission range and transducer problem, however there is pretty good chance this could solve those issues.
We start at 7;00 you can have my bench. No health benefits when can you start

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