Diesel Salty Dog

nbfisherman

Newbie
Nov 20, 2022
6
3
47
NEAH BAY
Name
Dale
Boat Name
Gandydancer
Pete Handson stretched two of these. I run one of them with a 5.9 in it. Dang i was hoping to see what it took to put the 5.9 into one that hasn't been stretched. Thanks for posting your project .looking forward to updates. Idk if possible please video it and put it on you tube.
 
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40Grit

Member
Sep 9, 2009
820
470
Newport Beach California
Name
Steve Brown
Boat Name
Radovich 34
Progress, should be laminating next week. Once the molds are finished.

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40Grit

Member
Sep 9, 2009
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470
Newport Beach California
Name
Steve Brown
Boat Name
Radovich 34
5’ extension. we had Shad Turner do the drawings and engineering, 28-33
We should begin the laminating next week. Debating on molding in a tunnel. Now is the time. I’ve got the weight and trim, but haven’t laid out the shaft angle with the new 1.5-1 10 degree transmission.
 
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PacificBlue

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Nov 25, 2011
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JM
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Still Looking
Here’s some reference material for you:



 
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PacificBlue

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Nov 25, 2011
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JM
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As a powerboat guy , I love these modification and repower projects. There are a few things you can do to tap into current technology and improve the 70s approach that was prevalent with boat builders back then:

Place plastic/Teflon blocks to recess your strut pad, depthsounder transducer(s), and trim tabs. Takes some pre-planning. And another new trick to keep a clean bottom is to go with a seachest instead of multiple through hulls. All these little tricks add up to small gains in lowering resistance and getting a extra knot or two , especial with the wake adapted underwater gear.



And new trim / stabilization is a game changer as well, a must have imo:

 
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40Grit

Member
Sep 9, 2009
820
470
Newport Beach California
Name
Steve Brown
Boat Name
Radovich 34
As a powerboat guy , I love these modification and repower projects. There are a few things you can do to tap into current technology and improve the 70s approach that was prevalent with boat builders back then:

Place plastic/Teflon blocks to recess your strut pad, depthsounder transducer(s), and trim tabs. Takes some pre-planning. And another new trick to keep a clean bottom is to go with a seachest instead of multiple through hulls. All these little tricks add up to small gains in lowering resistance and getting a extra knot or two , especial with the wake adapted underwater gear.



And new trim / stabilization is a game changer as well, a must have imo:

Dear Blue, thank you for this invaluable input. With so much going on with these projects I can use any help I can get.
I’ve studied the tunnel project quoted earlier. And actually talked with the builder. Very together cat.
One of the big reasons for extending in addition to more space, was these 28’s never were super, and had a bow down trim.
Mine was sever, with a 15 degree shaft angle.
Those new rudders look incredible. Had no idea they had been developed.
Love to hear more of your thoughts
Steve
 
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PacificBlue

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JM
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When a build is going on like this, you have the opportunity to gain efficiencies that we’re not available when they built the boat.

The wake adapted strut/rudders are new technology developments that gains you efficiency, plus the new rudders are so much better than the old designs. I know there is a cost associated with them, but hey, you only get 1 shot at the new running gear design.

Steering improvements are also an area you can look at, you can get a more responsive helm which translates into better autopilot response and better tracking underway with less wandering.

I would also think about the swimstep design. You could have extended the hull bottom to include an integrated swimstep but another trick is, if you are planning on one, to enclose the bottom in somewhat of a reverse v design, it will back down like a mother without dipping the transom and could give you an opportunity for making it an insulated fish box.

We had a 42’ Uniflite SF for years, so I am well aware of that bow down trait on these models, you have to be careful with fuel tank placement.

Best,
Joe
 
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40Grit

Member
Sep 9, 2009
820
470
Newport Beach California
Name
Steve Brown
Boat Name
Radovich 34
When a build is going on like this, you have the opportunity to gain efficiencies that we’re not available when they built the boat.

The wake adapted strut/rudders are new technology developments that gains you efficiency, plus the new rudders are so much better than the old designs. I know there is a cost associated with them, but hey, you only get 1 shot at the new running gear design.

Steering improvements are also an area you can look at, you can get a more responsive helm which translates into better autopilot response and better tracking underway with less wandering.

I would also think about the swimstep design. You could have extended the hull bottom to include an integrated swimstep but another trick is, if you are planning on one, to enclose the bottom in somewhat of a reverse v design, it will back down like a mother without dipping the transom and could give you an opportunity for making it an insulated fish box.

We had a 42’ Uniflite SF for years, so I am well aware of that bow down trait on these models, you have to be careful with fuel tank placement.

Best,
Joe
Dear Joe, thanks again for the input. I’ll post the trim calculations when I’m back. The designer was very careful about the tank locations. They are placed outboard of the motor.
 
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PacificBlue

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There are a few things to consider in keeping weight aft, are you going to build in a bait tank or fish or into the transom? Battery type, quantity and location?

Are you planning on a diesel generator or Inverter bank?

What type of exhaust system are you going with, a lift muffler or something else?

It would be interesting to see all the items included in your trim/stability calculations, I am sure you have touched upon most of these plus more.

These projects sure do end up having a million details by the time your done!
 
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PacificBlue

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I have one comment towards the integrity of the existing deck/hull joint on older Uniflite’s.

This may not be your case, but as a past Uniflite owner and fan of the brand, I want to share. A while back, there was an incident on the East Coast of Florida, when an older 42’SF was running directly into a nasty head sea and after awhile, the hydraulic pressure of constantly submerging the bow starting forcing sea water between the hull and deck joint below the rub rail, eventually opening it up to the point where the bow stateroom filled up with sea water. Remember the 42’ had a habit of running bow down. The seas where nasty enough that she quickly floundered and sunk in a very short time. No lives where lost though it was a moment that any owner wants to avoid.

The lessened learned is to take a look at your hull to deck joint, which is quite old by now, and see if it needs any reinforcements. After this, maybe even glass it up from the outside before installing a robust rub rail.
 
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40Grit

Member
Sep 9, 2009
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Newport Beach California
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Steve Brown
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Radovich 34
Excellent hull to deck joint advice. I’ve seen some tragic attempts at this intregal Bond. Our shop, has seen some things that are criminal. And admittedly I’ve assumed it was good on other projects, only to later discover the boat had had an impact issue. I’ll double check the Salty’s bond.
The current project calculations include bait tank, and 8KW diesel generator.
Exhaust is going to be inline muffler what would you think the advantages of a water lift exhaust.
Steve
 
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PacificBlue

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JM
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It really depends on your waterline relationship to your exhaust elbow and the drop you have available, if you are too low you will need a lift muffler . I assume your genset will use one ?

https://centekmarine.com/solutions/propulsion-wet-exhaust/

One nice trick I have found is to mount any lift muffler with resilient (rubber) mounts as well as the genset. You will quiet the noise and vibration levels so much it will amaze you.


It takes some engineering to balance it with its center of gravity but is a big boat trick you can easily implement in Salty and be whisper quiet to the feet on the deck.

Joe
 
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PacificBlue

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Way back in the 80’s, Basin Marine in Newport Beach did some nice mods on a 38 Uniflite name “Tiolee” , the owner of Stockland camper shells I believe, and the boat was run by the very young Wood’s brothers if memory serves me right.

They made an integrated swimstep/live well but the cool thing they did was graft an frp encapsulated mahogany chine rail from bow to stern, it gave the boat some lift while on plane but more importantly was a spray knocker up forward and added some dryness, something these era of Uniflite’s are not known for.

I would highly recommend spray knockers forward and the cooler Chine Rail if you can swing it, the chine rail also softens up the roll on anchor if done properly, most of the East Coast custom cold-molded sportfishers have that designed in.

Here is an add-on spray rail article to give you a conceptual idea:


 
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PacificBlue

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Nov 25, 2011
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JM
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Dear Joe, thanks again for the input. I’ll post the trim calculations when I’m back. The designer was very careful about the tank locations. They are placed outboard of the motor.
Some more food for thought:

I notice in your profile you have a tower, is this going to be a 100% installations?

With the additional length, you have increased your length to beam ratio, have you checked into the stability impacts on being up in the tower ? Do you recall how the Salt Dog felt when you stepped on the Gunwale before the hull mod, somewhat tender or fairly stiff? Do you have a gut feeling on the roll period?

Which always leads to the SeaKeeper question, are you leaving open an option for one or not? The space grab does need some planning in advance .
 
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