Crimping with a Nicopress Crimper

LadyE

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Jan 25, 2007
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So I have a used Nicopress 17BA crimper. I'm crimping Knot to Kinky 35 pound titanium wire. I'm using AFW #1 single barrel sleeve. I go through the sleeve three times; it forms a little bow tie. See pictures below.
I'm going to use these for bait fishing wahoo and will be setting my drag around 10 pounds.
The problem I'm having is, the crimp starts to slide around 16lbs using my primitive testing methods; which is putting a spectra loop through the eyelet used to tie to mainline and attaching the hook on my vise and pulling with my drag scale. The leader starts sliding slightly at 16 pounds and by 20 pound it has cinched up to the hook; it doesn't break until 30 pounds.
I realize my drag is only going to be set at 10 pounds but as the spool loses line the drag will go up; I don't think the crimp should slip at all.
I've tried different crimping pressure and as hard as I can squeeze it seems to work best but it still slips.
Anyone have this problem; solution or suggestions?
I'm wondering if it's the Nicopress tool but it's hard to imagine it wearing out because it's only crimping copper sleeves. There is a little play in the handle where the two pieces come together.

Final Nicopress Crimp.jpg Crimp using Nicopress hard pressure one hand 8-12-2018.jpg
 
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hucklongfin

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The crimp looks good. If it's slipping the crimp is too big. However, fishing with 10# of drag it probably doesn't matter.
 
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Bill W

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    I use the 1L (long) crimp in that application, and I crimp it end to end. It tests out very high, and I have not had issues with the wire breaking because of the crimping method.

    Thanks Cliff... So in this case with small wire you crimp right to the end of the crimp?
     
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    REK

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    I looked into this titanium wire for hoo. Same as you. Put it on the bench and pull. And watch it slip. Used it in real life down at the rocks and the end result was no slip, tagged hoo. I did not do the pound tests where things slip or break. Just figured I was pulling too hard on the bench. Worked fine in real life. Should say I was using 40/50, not 35.
     
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    LadyE

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    A2 sleeve works for me. I don't loop the wire through the sleeve more than once. crimp hell out of it. you wont hurt the wire

    Hey Shellback thanks for the reply; what kind of crimper do you use?

    Thanks for all the replies guys; I'll just keep plugging away. I think I'll go with what I have, like I said I'm only going to fish 10 lbs of drag.
    There is a video that Luke owner of Anglers Choice did on youtube, he does not use the round style crimper the round style crimper.
    Here is a link that I found interesting but didn't look very stealthy:


    Thanks again for all your replies
     
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    shellback

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    the crimper is a nicopress #17-2 tool. the most important thing is to try to get the right size crimp for the right diameter wire. an A2 sleeve should work with wire you are using. I saw where these tools are available on e bay at least. check it out. happy to help with any questions
     
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    Rodless_Jim

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    My guess is titanium wire stretches and gets smaller diameter.

    I know for a fact that it does, Bill, but the amount of stretch, or I should say the change in diameter is incredibly minimal. Like others have suggested, I prefer to use the AFW #1L sleeves, which allow me to take two "bites." I don't crimp the entire length of the sleeve...have never needed to. My leaders typically don't slip, even at 30lbs of drag. Still, your mileage may vary.


    And Nicopress crimpers work best with Nicopress crimps that are the correct diameter for the crimper.

    Honest to God, Mark, I never even thought about using Nicopress sleeves in this application, even though I use the 17-B4B tool. Does Nicopress even make sleeves for this application?
     
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    Rodless_Jim

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    Berkeley 7 strand A2 sleeve

    THAT was the brand I couldn't remember...7 Strand. But when crimping Knot-2-kinky 35# I prefer to use the A1 sleeves. They also work really well (pretty much a dead heat with the AFW #1L). Sometimes it's a bit of work to get the wire through the A1 sleeve three times, but worth the effort.
     
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    hucklongfin

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    I know for ma fact that it does, Bill, but the amount of stretch, or I should say the change in diameter is incredibly minimal. Like others have suggested, I prefer to use the AFW #1L sleeves, which allow me to take two "bites." I don't crimp the entire length of the sleeve...have never needed to. My leaders typically don't slip, even at 30lbs of drag. Still, your mileage may vary.




    Honest to God, Mark, I never even thought about using Nicopress sleeves in this application, even though I use the 17-B4B tool. Does Nicopress even make sleeves for this application?
    Maybe not. I get them from Basil and use them sleeves for heavier mono and fluoro. I have some little AFW #1 sleeves for making up wahoo wire leaders and don't use a Nicopress crimper for those.
     
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    Anglewood

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    Hmm, I have used A2 sleeves from Aztec for the same application for years and never had an issue. I use the same crimper and the small hole I have literally made over a hundred for myself and friends without a failure. I also use the #4 rings from Quick Rig, expensive, but once you get some, you are set. One difference may be that I have mono going to the ring which provides shock resistance.

    -Connor
     
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    Cubeye

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    So I have a used Nicopress 17BA crimper. I'm crimping Knot to Kinky 35 pound titanium wire. I'm using AFW #1 single barrel sleeve. I go through the sleeve three times; it forms a little bow tie. See pictures below.
    I'm going to use these for bait fishing wahoo and will be setting my drag around 10 pounds.
    The problem I'm having is, the crimp starts to slide around 16lbs using my primitive testing methods; which is putting a spectra loop through the eyelet used to tie to mainline and attaching the hook on my vise and pulling with my drag scale. The leader starts sliding slightly at 16 pounds and by 20 pound it has cinched up to the hook; it doesn't break until 30 pounds.
    I realize my drag is only going to be set at 10 pounds but as the spool loses line the drag will go up; I don't think the crimp should slip at all.
    I've tried different crimping pressure and as hard as I can squeeze it seems to work best but it still slips.
    Anyone have this problem; solution or suggestions?
    I'm wondering if it's the Nicopress tool but it's hard to imagine it wearing out because it's only crimping copper sleeves. There is a little play in the handle where the two pieces come together.

    View attachment 954057 View attachment 954058
    You might try using a "Crimping tool" instead of the "Swaging tool" that you are using. I'm not sure, but I believe the single barrel sleeves that AFW and 7 Strand make were initially designed to be "Crimped" and not "Swagged".

    A method that I was taught on using the 'long sleeves' was to swag one end, then swag the other end at 90 degrees to the original end. With this method, you don't really need a special tool. Duck bill, needle nose, electricians pliers will work. Simply compress both ends flat. There is no need to have the ends of the sleeve flare out like for mono. It works, but maybe not to your standards.
     
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    Bill W

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    Swaging would be multiple use of the tool or tool die around an object to perform an even round shape. Crimping would be once or twice with the tool. So a swaging tool can crimp if used just to compress a crimp on one surface of the crimp and not rotated on the same area.
     
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    Bill W

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    The reason I ask is the ID of the #1 sleeve is 0.84mm and the #35 wire diameter is 0.381mm. Inserting the wire 3x a sleeve of at least 1.143mm is needed. (0.381x3=1.143mm). Is your sleeve really a #1? It just will not fit. Whatever size you used might be just too big?

    Your math is wrong.

    The area of .84 diameter is pi times the radius squared. (3.14 is pi) (radius is.42mm)
     
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    Rodless_Jim

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    Your math is wrong.

    The area of .84 diameter is pi times the diameter. (3.14 is pi)

    I can't swear to the math, but I have no trouble inserting 35# Knot-2-kinky into a #1L sleeve three times. In point of fact, I have many times done the same with 45#. That is a tight fit, but it works.
     
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    Mangisda

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    The area of .84 diameter is pi times the radius squared. (3.14 is pi) (radius is.42mm)[/QUOTE]
    Your math is wrong.

    The area of .84 diameter is pi times the radius squared. (3.14 is pi) (radius is.42mm)

    You are right Bill. Thanks. I should've paid more attention in the classroom.
     
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    Cubeye

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    So I have a used Nicopress 17BA crimper. I'm crimping Knot to Kinky 35 pound titanium wire. I'm using AFW #1 single barrel sleeve. I go through the sleeve three times; it forms a little bow tie. See pictures below.
    I'm going to use these for bait fishing wahoo and will be setting my drag around 10 pounds.
    The problem I'm having is, the crimp starts to slide around 16lbs using my primitive testing methods; which is putting a spectra loop through the eyelet used to tie to mainline and attaching the hook on my vise and pulling with my drag scale. The leader starts sliding slightly at 16 pounds and by 20 pound it has cinched up to the hook; it doesn't break until 30 pounds.
    I realize my drag is only going to be set at 10 pounds but as the spool loses line the drag will go up; I don't think the crimp should slip at all.
    I've tried different crimping pressure and as hard as I can squeeze it seems to work best but it still slips.
    Anyone have this problem; solution or suggestions?
    I'm wondering if it's the Nicopress tool but it's hard to imagine it wearing out because it's only crimping copper sleeves. There is a little play in the handle where the two pieces come together.

    View attachment 954057 View attachment 954058
    Double post
     
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