Well said. Buying china made crap from your local tackle shop only makes you feel better about buying it.While i agree with you i do beleive that most of what the manufacturers are selling to local tackle shops are also imported products from china so shopping local does not insure you are not supporting china,read the labels.
Check out leadmasters for less expensive lines of jigs,they source their recycled lead as much as possible from shooting ranges and they manufacture everything in the high desert of california.
Fished last weekend, my buddy rolled up the bluefin on a certain knife jig- I only got one on a KB- not that it matters, lots of this and that, conditions and stuff... we started looking for that jig he slayed them on, found it was straight outta China. I ordered two from the commies, he found the exact same jig at the local tackle store- so they too ordered them straight outta china and just marked them up. Just what I learned this week. At least we're catching fish, let's go! Oh, btw, we tried to read the Chinese writing on the package, best I could make out was that it says China Vagina. We're going to try the CV jig some more and will report back.Well said. Buying china made crap from your local tackle shop only makes you feel better about buying it.
Most of us here live and pay taxes in CA. Just saying. . .
Personally, I like cheap products without private label markups.
|Toray Industries, Inc.||Tokyo, Japan||49.5|
|SGL Carbon||Wiesbaden, Germany||15.0|
|Teijin Ltd.||Tokyo, Japan||12.6|
|Hexcel Corp.||Stamford, USA||12.5|
The Alibaba interface is not the most user friendly. Try Aliexpress. It's a little friendlier, and the minimum orders are lower. Costs just a few Scheckel's more for the convenience, but it's worth it especially if you're new to ordering direct from China.savings are tempting. I've wondered about the same questions that you do.
regarding the knife jigs: I personally struggle with the Alibaba interface, but honestly, I'm not convinced there's much magic to any of the main brand names. I've fished side-by-side with buddies most of my night trips the last few years, and we always try to compare... and it seems like the position of your cast/drop/retrieve matters a lot, total weight matters a lot, hook size/location probably might matter maybe, and color/brand matters roughly zero (at least, at night). I know you are very knowledgeable, so you know that even sinkers with hooks work very well. personally, I liked it when I could buy knife jigs direct from James Kikkawa (of KB/WCJ) and since I'm hoping for a day of daytime knife fishing (where patterns might matter more), I'm just sticking with those. but if you're only gonna fish night or if you're open to experimentation during daytime, I would say if you can find cheap knives, do it. skip the various middlemen and go straight to the factory, why not?
regrading the braid: I've had mixed results with off-brands. for my boat rods, I always have a whole quiver and the stakes are never THAT HIGH, so I use whatever comes to me, and rarely have a problem. I've had two batches that broke in weird "mid-line" frayed failures, but honestly, it was worth the savings (I just switched to another rod and kept fishing, then went home and replaced with another cheap spool; no problems!). that said, I have only been using premium brands for my tuna gear... that's only because I've had limited opportunities to test breaking strength-vs-diameter. I *DO BELIEVE* there must be cheap generic spectra that is just as good... but I *ALSO KNOW* that some of the generic stuff out there fails on the diameter/breaking strength comparisons. so on the braid, I would say proceed with caution and use any line that you have tested, but never trust published breaking strength/capacity numbers (BTW, some of the most reputable brands have had bad batches, so it makes sense to test all your line IMHO).
Don’t forget the cost of dental school. It is around $250K. And that doesn’t include the cost of the 4 year college degree you have to get BEFORE they will let you into dental school.In California it's roughly 200K a year.Reasonable for what they do.I know small business owners that make more than that.
This reminds me of a story about a mechanic telling his cardiologist how much cheaper he can rebuild an engine than what he charges for his work.Don’t forget the cost of dental school. It is around $250K. And that doesn’t include the cost of the 4 year college degree you have to get BEFORE they will let you into dental school.
To add insult to injury the interest you pay on the student loans IS NOT TAX DEDUCTIBLE even though it is a business expense. Let’s not forget the price to purchase a dental practice after you get out of school, $500K +
My brother is a physician. He makes about $350K / year. Between seeing patients, charting, misc office paperwork, managing employees, answering after hrs calls, etc, he puts in 80 hrs a week and works 6-6.5 days per week. Year after year after year.
Many years ago I was in the recovery room giving post op instructions to the father of a two year old I had provided anesthesia for. The father was kind of an ass. He said, “I can’t believe you charged $500 to put my son to sleep”. I said , “I didn’t”. He looked a little puzzled. I went on to say, “I charged you $10 to put him to sleep and $490 to wake him up.”
Yes they are defined by denier. Denier times the number of strands, so /4, /8, /9, /12, and /16 (the number of strands in the weave) mean something when reading sizes by denier. My /8 strand Depth Finder multicolor line in sizes 7.0, 9.0, and 11.0 line may not exist in your world, but they arrived anyway and the actual spools are marked 80#, 100#, and #120. Bingo.For example, the international line sizes of 7.0, 9.0 and 11.0 do not exist for braid. Those numbers are based off of a Japanese standard for mono, polyester and fluoro line. These are the standard braided line sizes defined by denier.